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Author Topic: Backfire with power loss  (Read 8462 times)

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Offline roxer

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Backfire with power loss
« on: December 15, 2014, 06:37:09 AM »
After hitting the gas last night because some idiot decided to change lanes when I pulled out, I got a severe backfire when shifting from 1st to 2nd at around 5000 rpms. Car stalled and then came the power loss message and loss of ESC too.  Check engine light never came on though?  Power loss message disappeared after about two minutes and ESC reset after I turned the car off and then back on. I pulled the battery cable last night to clear the computer.

I have run only Shell 93 in he car and just filled it up. Any clues as to what could cause that?  Temps run from 190-198. Scared the hell out of me as I thought I blew the motor.  :gaah:

Update - officially in limp mode.  Drive to work this morning was sluggish and no boost past 2psi.  My car has ED.   :(
« Last Edit: December 15, 2014, 08:46:44 AM by roxer »
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Offline cdnite

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2014, 09:45:11 AM »
You probably blew a charge pipe coupler or Throttle body coupler.

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Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2014, 10:46:20 AM »
You probably blew a charge pipe coupler or Throttle body coupler.

--Christian

I'll check to see if I blew a hose at lunch time.  Provided I fix it, does this have to be reset at the dealership?
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Offline Graywolf

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2014, 11:50:08 AM »
No reset, if you get a check engine light disconnect battery for 15 seconds to clear.  Sure sounds like u blew a tube
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Offline Gentleman Jack

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2014, 12:09:20 PM »
Agree with Graywolf.
Get the t-bolt clamps.
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Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #5 on: December 15, 2014, 01:39:03 PM »
I went out and checked everything at lunch time with a friend.  Neither of us saw anything separated or disconnected.  The T-bolt clamps were all on tight.  There was no sign of a blown or separating (as in seams) inter-cooler from what we could see through the front and bottom grill area.

For the record, I have the DDM TB Elbow and DDM IC pipes/hoses installed with t-bolt clamps.  Also tuned with GMPP only.  I'll head to advanced tonight to pull codes if there are any.
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Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2014, 02:10:20 PM »
Cranked it up after lunch - everything works like nothing is wrong.  No CEL, turbo spools, no noticeable air sounds other than the CAI.  Driving it is another issue though.  Checked the fuse too.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2014, 02:51:21 PM by roxer »
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Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #7 on: December 15, 2014, 08:12:59 PM »
P0101 code from advanced auto. I have the CED pigtail kit with the GM tune.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2014, 08:38:25 PM by roxer »
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Offline Sol Asylum

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #8 on: December 15, 2014, 10:53:46 PM »
Clean the MAF sensor inspect for damage or a bad connector.
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Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2014, 12:18:05 AM »
So picked up some MAF cleaner and disconnected everything:  MAF and MAP sensor in the drivers side tube. Cleaned all connectors and checked for water intrusion. No bent pins and connectors were clean. Cleaned the MAF and 3bar sensor with MAF cleaner and resembled everything back.  Reconnected the battery and started her up.

Now she idles around 1500 rpm constantly at ~198 degrees and the car is still in limp mode getting no better than 3psi in third gear.  Torqued all hose t-bolt clamps down (whistling stopped btw) before I started it up. WTF over?  Bad sensor?  Pigtail crapped out?
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Offline Gentleman Jack

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2014, 01:44:48 AM »
Solder the GMPP connectors and recheck all your tubes, especially the hard to see / reach ones.
Pull fuse ?43?
See if problem a) is gone
B) comes back or c) persists.
Report back.
May the Schwartz be wit you

Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2014, 10:17:15 AM »
Solder the GMPP connectors and recheck all your tubes, especially the hard to see / reach ones.
Pull fuse ?43?
See if problem a) is gone
B) comes back or c) persists.
Report back.

Fortunately, I purchased the pigtails from CED so I wouldn't have to solder.  I went around and tourqued the t-bolt clamps down on all the hoses. I cleared it and then drove it. Got the same results. No CEL yet, but I know it's coming. Already pulled 41,42 and 43. I think I need an OBD reader to clear this. Is that right?
« Last Edit: December 16, 2014, 10:43:36 AM by roxer »
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Offline HotScott

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #12 on: December 16, 2014, 04:20:16 PM »
Another thing to look for just in case, cause this happened to me using the GM CAI is the cheap boot connected to the turbo had a tear in it (underneath) so you couldn't see it and I felt.  Had to run to the auto parts store bought a good quality 2 to 3inch silicon connector.  Reset the codes and was fine.   But usually if this happens you will smell gas in the exhaust as to much fuel gets mixed in since it was sucking air in after the MAF.   But just something to check.
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Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #13 on: December 16, 2014, 05:08:53 PM »
Another thing to look for just in case, cause this happened to me using the GM CAI is the cheap boot connected to the turbo had a tear in it (underneath) so you couldn't see it and I felt.  Had to run to the auto parts store bought a good quality 2 to 3inch silicon connector.  Reset the codes and was fine.   But usually if this happens you will smell gas in the exhaust as to much fuel gets mixed in since it was sucking air in after the MAF.   But just something to check.

Super good Idea - I need to replace the stock cheesy GM CAI hose clamps with t-bolt clamps.  Anyone know the proper size to use?  Same as the IC pipes maybe?  2.88 & 3.12?
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Offline IBDRINKEN

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #14 on: December 16, 2014, 06:37:16 PM »
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Offline DeepBlueGXP

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #15 on: December 16, 2014, 07:09:28 PM »
I had my air intake boot crack from the GM CAI to the turbo.  You have to feel around it to find it.

Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #16 on: December 16, 2014, 10:29:51 PM »
Final report.  I'm tired of fr**king with this. So to date:

Tightened all clamps.
Cleaned MAF and MAP sensors plus connectors
Tried new MAF sensor
Reset codes (with obdii reader) and battery
Checked hoses for leaks and reinstalled CAI
Inspected IC for cracks or bulging

Fixed the whistling noise.  That's a plus.  But now I have new problems. The car idles erratic anywhere from 800 to 1500 RPMs. Sometime at a stoplight it will just hang at 1500. If I lug the engine with the clutch, I can get it to drop back to normal idle. I never get more than 3psi boost.

Forgot to reconnect the MAF at one point in my troubleshooting and the car ran like a scalded dog getting up to 19psi. Reconnected it back and now I'm back to the erratic idling and 3psi. Threw code P0101 and P0139 with the MAF disconnected. Cleared them both after reconnecting the MAF and she runs good sometimes, shitty others. I even got the Advanced Auto guy to let me borrow a new MAF to try. Same crap. Codes so far P0101, P0139 and P0507, but never together. I've had enough.
« Last Edit: December 16, 2014, 10:45:02 PM by roxer »
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Offline tazz

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #17 on: December 16, 2014, 10:47:24 PM »
Check your fuel trims at idle and while under light boost.

Offline Kelu

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #18 on: December 17, 2014, 05:41:09 AM »
Check PCV pipe going to and back intake pipe from between air filter and valve cover.
Also check for possible exhaust leaks or oil vapors.
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Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #19 on: December 17, 2014, 02:26:43 PM »
Check your fuel trims at idle and while under light boost.

If that takes something other than the cars DIC or a simple OBDII code reader, I have no way of doing that.
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Offline roxer

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #20 on: December 17, 2014, 02:27:48 PM »
Check PCV pipe going to and back intake pipe from between air filter and valve cover.
Also check for possible exhaust leaks or oil vapors.

That was all done when I removed and re-installed the GM CAI.  No exhaust leaks.
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Offline Gentleman Jack

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #21 on: December 17, 2014, 04:41:12 PM »
Somehow the car is protecting itself because it is seeing too much air. You've already ruled out a bad MAF.
I lived your nightmare for 3 months. Eventually I replaced all the clamps, reseated all the hoses and reloaded the tune after 20 tweaks. Once I got it all solved, the car ran like a scalded dog and surpassed all my expectations- then I sold it :)
May the Schwartz be wit you

Offline Jim

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #22 on: December 17, 2014, 05:12:47 PM »
Did your dealer flash the GMPP tune for you? Just wondering if your ECM could have gone cattiwhompas and the glitch is causing your issue. Might be worth taking to the dealer to see if they would be willing to relash the tune.
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Offline Gentleman Jack

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #23 on: December 17, 2014, 06:59:29 PM »
The ECM is a computer like any other. It helps to power down and reinstall some programs once in a while.
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Offline tazz

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Re: Backfire with power loss
« Reply #24 on: December 17, 2014, 08:13:41 PM »
If that takes something other than the cars DIC or a simple OBDII code reader, I have no way of doing that.
There is not someone close to you that has a data logger like DashHawk DashBoss HPT that can monitor in real time?

 

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