Topic: Twincharged Solstice = Turbocharger + Supercharger

[TomatoSoup]

Woo hoo!!  :party:

[Steelmesh]

After my silly mistake chasing the ground for I had to step up my game to compensate.  My goal was to be driving the car by Woodward, well check out the progress....

Dual automotive relay switched by ignition to the whole power distribution box:




Breakout box for 5v power supply (sensors) and also terminated the 3 sensors going into HPT; 1) WBO2, 2) Oil Pressure, 3) Fuel Pressure.  I'm using shielded CAT5e cable to HPT:




Finished up the H/E plumbing and welding the bungs on the Civic / Accord radiator:





*It Holds Water!!


FIRST HEAT CYCLE!!!  Yay, since I have a copper head gasket (Titan ISC) I needed to retorque:




Crap, I forgot to turn these out.  They turned out perfect:



*inside diameter 0.562", step diameter 0.667", step length 0.120", thickness 0.120", O.D. 1.500"






Here it is, 120 hours later and I am on HALF done heck the rear suspension and diff aren't done, need a catch can fabbed, and then start prepping the M62 supercharger etc after having some fun with the old girl on the turbo: 






My first impression on the 8 mile adventure was that it has a lot more torque down low.  I was on the wastegate spring at 12 psi.  My compression is for cylinders 1,2,3,4 respectively: 160, 160, 165, 164 psi. I am running 9.5:1 compression pistons, so does this sound about right?

[Sol Asylum]

Assuming standard atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi 9.5 times that about 140 so I'd say your numbers look good.

[Critterman]

Assuming standard atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi 9.5 times that about 140 so I'd say your numbers look good.

Is that engineer speak?

[Sol Asylum]

Yes, standard atmospheric pressure is 29.92inhg (barometer reading) that works out to about 14.7psi.

If you back calculated his compression ratio using his readings and used the 14.7 psi base number his engine would have a compression ratio of about 10.9:1

[kwtoxman]

That's what I thought, his actual compression ratio is not 9.5. It's significantly higher.

[Steelmesh]

On the day I checked it, my location historical baro shows 29.4, which converts to 14.4 psi.  14.4 * 9.5 = 137

I did some quick googling, one suggested 15-20 multiplied by the CR, for 9.5 that is 143-190 psi.  The head gasket is 0.043" thick and running the ZZP cams (but they would be parked during compression test).

[Steelmesh]

With the car warmed up, I was able to use HP Tuners to relearn the crankshaft sensor (aka CASE learn) which got rid of the P0315 Crankshaft Position Variation Not Learned.  Then a new code popped up, P0016.  Following the diagnostic procedure, I pulled the VVT actuator and manually jumpered it to check if it was actuating, which it was.  Next it says to check the timing....as if the intake cam skipped a tooth.

After figuring out it is nearly impossible to line up the colored timing chain links, I came up with a plan. First I put the crank at TDC, using a rod inside Cylinder 1 and then making sure the I can see the timing marks on the cam gears.  I attempted to try and reference the manual that said put the intake mark at approximately 2 o'clock position, which is about 30 degrees.  Well it not that easy or accurate:



I then got the idea to count the chain links between the exhaust mark and the intake mark.  I found a youtube ecotec timing tutorial and was able to pause it to see the colored chain links, then count the links between the marks.  I also confirmed with this service manual diagrams showing the whole front view with all links and timing marks.  I also counted the links on an old timing chain.  The magic number is 16, this includes the link at the mark on both cam gears.

Count the links between the marks challenge:



I counted 16.5.  The intake camshaft skipped a tooth at some point, I'm guess during the first time cranking it over with the starter...unless you have some ideas. 

I fixed it quite easily, I pulled the tensioner completely and then using a large adjustable hammer and a 24 mm wrench on each camshaft hex, I pulled the intake cam gear towards the exhaust gear and then helped that new slack in the chain between them jump the teeth on the intake side, I got it back to 16 links between them.  Before starting the engine, I installed a brand new tensioner...as the one I used was pulled from the 2015 LEA with 20k miles.  Maybe I didn't reset it correctly idk, didn't take a chance.

After a 110 mile commute on Wednesday, everything is looking great!!

Next I need to finish and fix the suspension.  The free Eibachs I got are too low (I just have the fronts installed lolol). My driveway is so low and I am not a big fan of slamming my cars (just my personal opinion, they're cool as long as I don't own it).  I am going to install spring seat spacers.  I did some measuring and some maths to sketch the suspension, then calculated at the shock I need a 0.375" spacer to move the wheel 0.500". 

I made a prototype last night:

Stock


Lift Kit

[Rockchops]

How did you know it slipped on the intake side vs the exhaust side? If it slipped the exhaust, you would have bumped it even more out of time? FWIW I just replaced my tensioner and I believe it slipped a tooth on startup as well, I'm getting a p0016.

[Sol Asylum]

With the crank set to TDC you check and see which cam lines up with their respective timing mark, it will be pretty obvious which one is out, or they both could be out.

[Steelmesh]

How did you know it slipped on the intake side vs the exhaust side? If it slipped the exhaust, you would have bumped it even more out of time? FWIW I just replaced my tensioner and I believe it slipped a tooth on startup as well, I'm getting a p0016.

The telltale was the intake mark was not inside the outer link plates [of the chain]. You know how a chain has outer link plates and inner link plates. Reference the picture again it is hard to tell but now that I pointed it out maybe you can see.

I knew after the fact with confidence it was right, when no more codes for this type of stuff showed up.  I am okay with saying I got lucky.

[Steelmesh]

With the crank set to TDC you check and see which cam lines up with their respective timing mark, it will be pretty obvious which one is out, or they both could be out.

I don't think there are any references between the timing mark and the block.  Reading both service procedures from alldatadiy and eautorepair said line up the link with the intake gear, then line up the crank gear, then put the exhaust on the last colored link.  I was really not sure about the crank gear.  Counting the chain links between the cam gears tells part of the story, but is a fact within the story.  The fact being, there must be 16 links between the marks at all times, because the cam gears have identical teeth counts.  I think I just got lucky here that the crank gear and exhaust gear stayed correct.

[elff]

Next I need to finish and fix the suspension.  The free Eibachs I got are too low

Dump them and go back to stock springs or find ZOK springs

[Steelmesh]

Dump them and go back to stock springs or find ZOK springs

Thank you for the advice, it is truly duly noted. I am playing now. With just the turbo and no SC yet, I am going to toss in the 3.73 LSD probably next month.  By then I can ditch them if that is my preference.

Looking at my stock springs, and for comparison purposes, I used an online spring rate calculator https://www.thespringstore.com/spring-rate-calculator.html

Stock Front 2006 calc inputs:
Wire Diameter = 0.450" (-0.045" for oem coating thickness)
O.D. = 4.500"
Free Length = 15.200"
N Active Coils = 6.9
Material = Chrome Silicon
Spring constant, k = 128.527 lbs/in = 22.508 N/mm, cooked the books on the coil count but it was close 6.X, higher X

Eibach Pro-Kit Front calc inputs, estimates:
Wire Diameter = 0.443" (-0.035" for coating thickness)
O.D. = 4.500"
Free Length = 11.000"
N Active Coils = 5.5
Material = Chrome Silicon
Spring constant, k = 161.243 lbs/in = 28.238 N/mm, FE3/Z0K Base is 30.500 N/mm

A way to increase rate is to decrease spring diameter or increase wire diameter, the last way is to reduce active coils like Eibach did here. 

I think this is a Z0K spring based on the extra spacer like the book explains. 



It could have 5.5 active coils like the Eibach (top coil is not active for sure, then count down) depending on putting the car down on it and counting them, however you can tell the wire diameter is larger imo which explains the 37.000 N/mm rate.

Join me for an experiment, I am not buying parts any more for a while trying to work with what I have now, cut myself off until I move and flip some things before Phase 2 of the Supurbo build.  Donations are accepted.

[Gentleman Jack]

This build is great to watch!!

[Rockchops]

The telltale was the intake mark was not inside the outer link plates [of the chain]. You know how a chain has outer link plates and inner link plates. Reference the picture again it is hard to tell but now that I pointed it out maybe you can see.

I knew after the fact with confidence it was right, when no more codes for this type of stuff showed up.  I am okay with saying I got lucky.

Got it, I can just see the mark on the chain on the exhaust side zoomed in. I'm opening mine up today. Appreciate all the info!

[Rockchops]

This build is great to watch!!

x2 I've been following this thread (silently) for a while. Great detailed info, pics and everything.

[kwtoxman]

In that timing gears picture above I count 15.5 links between the timing marks, not 16.5. Correct?
https://i.imgur.com/cRcNs4X.jpg

[Steelmesh]

In that timing gears picture above I count 15.5 links between the timing marks, not 16.5. Correct?
https://i.imgur.com/cRcNs4X.jpg

It depends on how you count it for sure. As long as you count with the same method it is a good check for timing between only the cam gears.  If you count all outer link plates and also include the link plates above each mark then it is 16.5 that way. 


Checked a few sources including...

Here is my old chain, 16 outer link plates including the colored ones:


Count the next service graphic, including the colored link plates it is 16:
https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/goodwrench9124/2010-06-13_195005_correct_tinig.gif

[Steelmesh]

x2 I've been following this thread (silently) for a while. Great detailed info, pics and everything.

Thanks gents!

[Critterman]

Yeah this is one of the best build thread in a while. 

[elff]

I think this is a Z0K spring based on the extra spacer like the book explains. 

That spacer was only installed to allow the car to progress through the assembly line.  It is supposed to be removed.  This is documented in one of the Pontiac Performance books.  I no longer have mine, but maybe someone who has the book where they built the Solstice race cars can find and reference the exact page.

Here is my point of view.   
You are putting all this time and effort into building a unique engine, but without a good suspension, the power is not going to have a chance to be applied successfully.  For a relatively low cost, you could improve it significantly vs trying to ghetto rig something with sub par parts.
$1000 could buy you the most highly recommended set of coil overs for the Kappa's and then you could set the height, rebound and damping to your liking.

[Steelmesh]

Stock springs:


Eibach Pro-kit with 0.500" spacer under spring seat (edited: the stock seat has the counter bore too, so it evens out):

[Steelmesh]

Time to get rid of the Faygo Rock & Rye catch can:




This is build-to-fit / engineering as you go, I had ideas including a swirl pot which I went with:




The air naturally swirls then must go down and back up. Below shows this concept, but mine is not so complicated as in this example:




Extra capacity, and had the room where I put it.  A 1/4" drain is on the bottom not shown:







And the bad news...

The can is picking up a lot of stuff.  The amount of stuff it catches is alarming.  I drove about 20 miles on the freeway to a friends house road testing, it had already filled 2 feet of 1/4" tubing and starting to fill the can.  I immediately tested compression, all cylinders around 154 psi (tested same way as first time).  I am running fairly large ring gaps too, about 0.028" on the second ring (0.026" top).  I am still investigating this matter.  A suggestion at work from a racer after asking about the hose routing is to rout the hoses from the valve cover upwards to create a trap there, makes sense because my routing has the hoses slope downwards to the catch can (which is lower than the valve cover).

Also note I am running Ace Hardware 5w30 oil (second oil change now).  I have some Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, from my understanding has a low volitility compared to other off the shelf synthetics.

[MattM]

Just seeing this last post....I've heard of that happening if you over pressurize the crankcase.... If I haven't read something before go easy on me, but that's what it sounds like to me.  Could you try to vent to atmosphere to see if it keeps doing it?