Topic: Twincharged Solstice = Turbocharger + Supercharger

[Steelmesh]

M62 Kappa Supercharger Assembled.  Spins nice and smooth, proper grease for the rotor needle bearings and GM SC oil.  Permatex anaerobic sealer for the case sealing (wiped clean). Bolts torqued to 25 Nm.  The aluminum surfaces were filed in the bad spots then stoned flat, the o-ring seals should take up the rest.

[MattM]

Get that thing on already!!!! Lol...

[Steelmesh]

Get that thing on already!!!! Lol...

List:
- Install 2x methanol nozzles on the LSJ intake
- Assemble LSJ intake
- Pulley and belt routing
- Intercooler re-plumbing, surge tank mount
- Factory wiring harness re-route, extensions/sensor adaptors
- Fuel system upgrade, return system, surge tank and BRFPR
- Roll Bar install
- Race seat install
- Rear brake line locks
- Quaife differential install
- Tuning
- Burnout
- Beat Mustangs

Dream, Believe, Achieve

[MattM]

I honestly have no doubt you will beat mustangs!!!

[Gentleman Jack]

Pretty cool👀

[Steelmesh]

The temperature finally exceeded 60F today, therefore the hood has come off.

[Steelmesh]

Here are some belt routing ideas:



A/C Deleted like my setup:




And then there is the silly LSJ double ribbed belt:

[Steelmesh]

Concept using 2 idlers to create more acceptable alternator wrap, with the A/C deleted:



The LSJ tensioner system is expensive, it requires a double sided ribbed belt, and requires the A/C compressor is installed...this is why I am going through the trouble here.

[MattM]

If you aren't spinning that supercharger past its stock pulley speed you shouldn't need the two extra idler pulleys.

[MattM]

Nevermind read your reasoning for the idlers......guess you will need them.

[Steelmesh]

It looks feasible, mocked up using 2.5" pieces there. That ribbed pulley can attach directly to the head where the factory lift bracket goes 8mm bolt (as shown).  The smooth pulley looks like some custom action to go where that open large bolt hole across to under the top alternator bolt head. Searching for pulleys now.  If I can change the alternator pulley to a 6-rib, it will probably solve any alternator slipping issues, I assume an LSJ alternator pulley would work.

[Steelmesh]

Pulley clearanced, bushing machined:



Let's check it out, bolted right to the head:







That upgraded timing chain guide bolt might be an issue, if so I'll get the dorman version that uses a hex:



Next is dealing with the smooth idler:

[MattM]

It's really coming together!

[DeepBlueGXP]

Love the attention to detail.  It's been over 30 years since I worked in a machine shop, I miss those days.

[Gentleman Jack]

Love the attention to detail.  It's been over 30 years since I worked in a machine shop, I miss those days.

You're so old you can't even remember those days!

[Steelmesh]

You're so old you can't even remember those days!

You mean he is 'so experienced' 

[Sol Asylum]

You're so old you can't even remember those days!

He doesn't even remember being that old!

[Steelmesh]

Build-to-Fit tack:



All welded up:



1/2" piece was clearanced, this took a while going back and forth trying to remove minimal material.  I needed it to be normal to the boss on the block with the 12mm bolt to ensure the pulley would run true:



I used a 10mm thread for the smooth idler that attaches to the bracket, I also had 10mm helicoil inserts so I used one of those.  Here is the whole pulley shootin match:



  I need a 5-rib 565 or 570 to try out, looks like this belt is hard to come by. Caveat here, I would strongly prefer to use parts off the shelf locally, so I am avoiding ordering online especially during development where return shipping costs 2-3 gallons of gas. After quite a bit of research, I found NAPA is stocking 6-rib 563, 569, 575 belts so I am fixing to head out there now.  I also ordered a powermaster 6-rib 2" diameter pulley (ours is 2.2") and looks like it is a standard bolt on pulley I removed the pulley last night.


*Worst case I need to cut the 6th rib off one of these belts if my 6-rib conversion fails. 

[Steelmesh]

  My measurement was too short, the 3 belts I picked up didnt work.  I returned those and NAPA ordered 2 more that might work.  I guess I'll just have to order spares once I get the size; otherwise I'll need to play with the idler diameters to use an ubiquitous belt.

On the bright side, I got a cheapo 6-rib alternator pulley fitted.

There is a smaller diameter step, but the distance from the flat to the first rib looks spot on:



It turned out okay:

[Steelmesh]

BINGO!

[Gentleman Jack]

Winner!!!!

[Steelmesh]

Looking at a poor mans twincharger BPV controller using a pneumatic valve ($12) and pressure switch ($20). I have a flow control already from another project.  Flow control is to prevent hysteresis with the pressure switch and smooth the opening of the BPV...that is my hypothesis at least. 




Here is what Dave said a while back in this thread:

On all of the twincharged Atom's we have done we used the internal bypass on the M62 instead of doing a custom throttle body setup. It is much easier and simpler to do this and you are mainly just trying to equalize the pressure delta across rotors of the supercharger. Once you have no pressure delta across the rotors, the "work" being done by the supercharger substantially decreases and in our testing was good for around 30hp. To control our setup we just use a 2nd boost controller that references off of the intake feeding the supercharger, once that incoming air becomes pressurized higher than the set point, the "wastegate" bypass on the supercharger starts to open. That provided a nice smooth drivable transition once it was setup and controlling everything correctly. We have done a bunch of these twincharged Atom's now, if you have any direct questions, feel free to shoot an email to me - Dave@ddmworks.com. Hope that helps.

[Steelmesh]

This has been bugging me for a while, I got the ZZP phenolic spacer between the head the intake, there is so much slop with the 2 gaskets and the spacer there is no way to ensure you're not "winking" the ports with all these components being potentially misaligned.

I turned a couple locators. Not shown I tapered one end to ease install:


Tolerance stack up wasn't bad, it's tight but it will go together and come apart without struggle:


Nicely located!



Also, reading up on the ZZP instructions how to assemble the laminova cores into the LSJ intake using the ZZP dual pass end plate (scored this with the used intake manifold!), I came across their tip to add a bleeder on the intake for the IC circuit:

[MattM]

Looking at a poor mans twincharger BPV controller using a pneumatic valve ($12) and pressure switch ($20). I have a flow control already from another project.  Flow control is to prevent hysteresis with the pressure switch and smooth the opening of the BPV...that is my hypothesis at least. 

(Image removed from quote.)


Here is what Dave said a while back in this thread:

That's exactly what zzp did on their initial twincharger setups.  It made for a much smoother power and when it switch over to the turbo providing boost..  I'm pretty sure it's also what I recommended a few pages back but you shot me down bc "you were running too much boost" or something.

I'll find the post so I can say I told you so. Lol!!!!

[MattM]

Very nice!  So once you get the bypass tuned correctly you should have a smooth power curve.  A good thread to look at is zzp s thread on cobaltss.net where they twincharged a cobalt.  The bypass was the key to the system working well...

here is a good thread..lot to read through though:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/my-zzp-twincharge-build-175481/

Twincharged kit hit's rollers:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/forced-induction-50/zzp-twin-charged-kit-hits-rollers-107218/

"When the bypass is open the blower robs about 10 HP. That is easily made up for by the larger more efficient turbo.

Power delivery is smooth and no streetability is lost. With the boost controller all the way down the car peaks at 16psi and makes about 300WHP depending on how high you spin it. you can adjust the blower bypass opening so that it's a slow lazy controlled spool all the way to lightning bolt instant full boost. We have it set in the middle but it's easy to adjust from there. "

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/i-need-twin-charger-guide-133538/index2.html

Here it is....lol...told you so haha!!!