- Replacement driveshaft / propshaft CV joint order a Dorman part 932-108 or search out the equivalent (I also bought that $60 fleabay special as backup).
- Special tools: outside snap ring pliers or wear safety glasses and you know what to do with your brute force
Symptoms:You might have a rattle noise (coast down) or vibration that shakes the car, going fast and under power.
Rattle while installed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Db3QDAGVTzYRattle on the bench:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqO_wYepzxUThe CV should also have minimal play if any in the radial direction (side to side). If you removed it and it flops around like nothing when you move it, it's probably lacking grease.
Service:Use a hammer and chisel or your un-favorite flathead to pop the cap off. It might be peened / crimped down so attack those and pry up the lip. The CV flops around so I put it in a vice and clamp it down since you're not reusing the thick outer race part.

Remove the snap ring on the splined shaft and it comes apart. I used a hammer to tap it off the splines, good tight fit there:

New CV kit. Notice on the old part the small lip to get your orientation of the main CV core assembly:

With the new seal side cap, pack that with CV grease (comes with kit but I used green Lucas X-tra) and pack the main assembly with grease. If you pack too much the grease will expand and come out the vent in the cap or past the boot. I wasn't shy.
Lube the splines and shaft with grease too. I used a flat head screwdriver to GENTLY convince the seal to make it home (all the way to the tube over the last rib). I used anaerobic sealer on the gasket to hold it in place so probably use some grease if you don't have any.

*Not shown: I used nuts on the provided bolts to squeeze the caps together before going around and use a round punch to hammer the lips over. This is mostly for installation so the caps don't fall out I theorize. When you final torque it is when the gasket really gets compressed and seals it. Edit: You definitely want to peen this 360 all the way around, what will happen is the cap will friction fit itself into the trans output yoke, so it might spin and mess up the bolt pattern holes (can't put the bolts through)...also consider when the shaft is removed in the future; the cap will be left behind in the yoke if the crimp isn't good enough.
Cause of failure:Until more data is collected, it is likely lack of lubrication from non-sealed CV joints losing grease. I would also propose that 2x or more than factory torque amplified by MT shock loads from bad drivers (ehem..) may mechanically damage the bearings; accelerating wear.
The replacement CV should in theory solve the lack of lubrication problem considering they come with gaskets to seal the grease in.
Old vs. New CV joint
