Topic: How to: Install GMPP Turbo Upgrade Kit Part # 19212670

[HAMMER DOWN]

The GMPP Kit 19212670 instruction are very good, but for a DIY. Here's some problems you will come across.

Let's get started: Tools: 4mm Allen wrench, 10mm socket w/6" extension (3" will work), wire cutter, wire stripper, heat shrink, solder, solder iron, black tape, mechanics hook tool, cutting tool ( uses a dremel tool), needle nose pliers, hammer, punch set, marker & lighter.

1) Leave Key off. This is all you have to do to kill all power to the MAP sensors.

2) Pop off engine cover.

3) Follow GMPP instructions, until step (3). Skip step (4), Move to step (5)

4) Step (5) Use the hook tool to remove the new GREEN O-ring off the TMAP sensor. Replace it with the BLUE one from the kit. Lube the BLUE O-ring with clean motor oil. The O-ring goes on quite hard. Be careful not to damage it.



When I went to install the intake TMAP. The holes don't line up. GM states you my have to tip slightly to start hold down bolt. Mine alignment was off over .030". Sideway pressure on plastic sensors is not good IMO. So I covered the O-ring & opening of the TMAP.


 Press out the metal sleeve out of the TMAP. Cut the O.D. of the mounting bolt out of the sleeve with my Dremel. Press it back in to the TMAP, with the cut out facing the right (see pics.)


5) Complete steps (6 & 7) of your GMPP instructions sheet.

6) Now go back to step (4) of your GMPP instructions sheet.
Once TMAP is installed. It's easier to run & wire-up the new TMAP plug into the OEM wire harness. Mark the wire with a marker. To read easier the pin location of the new TMAP plugs. If you are new at this. Cut, solder & heat shrink wrap one wire at a time. IMO you should always solder wire connections & heat shrink wrap whenever possible. When exposed to the weather.



7)  Complete steps (8 & 9) of your GMPP instructions sheet.

Skip step (10), move on to step (11) of your GMPP instructions sheet.

9) Step (11) Use the hook tool to remove the new GREEN O-ring off the TMAP sensor. Replace it with the BLUE one from the kit. Lube the BLUE O-ring with clean motor oil. The O-ring goes on quite hard. Be careful not to damage it.



When I went to install the pressure side IC pipe TMAP. The holes don't line up either . GM states you my have to tip slightly to start hold down bolt. Mine alignment was off over .030". Sideway pressure on plastic sensors is not good IMO. So I covered the O-ring & opening of the TMAP.
 
 Press out the metal sleeve out of the TMAP. Cut the O.D. of the mounting bolt out of the sleeve with my Dremel. Press it back in to the TMAP, with the cut out facing the right (see pics.)
 

10) Complete steps (12 & 13 ) of your GMPP instructions sheet. In step (12) add a 6mm flat washer to cover the mounting hole of the TMAP.
 
11) Now go back to step (10) of your GMPP instructions sheet.
Once TMAP is installed. It's easier to run & wire-up the new TMAP plug into the OEM wire harness. Mark the wire with a marker. To read easier the pin location of the new TMAP plugs. If you are new at this. Cut, solder & heat shrink wrap one wire at a time. IMO you should always solder wire connections & heat shrink wrap whenever possible. When exposed to the weather.



12) Complete steps (14 &15) of your GMPP instructions sheet. Remember to clean areas with alcohol. So the sticker no come off.

Side note by soldering & shrink wrap all connections. You GMPP Kit looks installed at the factory. Not spliced in & after thought with bulky solder-less connectors. IMO
 


Your done, just have to make an appt. to have your New tune installed. With no tune, I went for a 5 mile test drive. The car ran fine and no codes. Speeds from 0 to 65mph on my test run. So it looks to be fine to drive to my dealer.

Mike




[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[GXPinKC]

Thanks HAMMER DOWN for the great and fascinating pictures and documentation of How to install the GMPP Kit!  Well done my friend.  As always you prove to be pure gold.  Thanks for the great post.
Your old bud,
GXPinKC
Ron   

[Sol Asylum]

This looks like a pretty straight forward install.

What I don't understand is why GM would knowingly use a sensor that had the mounting holes out of alignment?  I mean come on this is going to cause problems when a tech cross threads a bolt or as the plastic ages it cracks because it's been side loaded.

As for solder vs crimp connections the crimp tend to be preferred because:
A)  Solder connections can be a source of corrosion and lead to a high resistance connection.  The flux in solder is corrosive if not cleaned off properly and with stranded wire the flux tends to be wicked up the wire under the insulation which makes it impossible to be cleaned off properly.

B)  Soldered connections also reduce the flexibility of the wire in the area of the solder joint.  If the wire is subject to vibrations this inflexibility is prone to cause breakage.

C)  Crimps tend to be faster to do and require less skill on the part of the tech doing the install.

What GM should have done is just have a connector on the end of the new sensors that plugs into the existing wire harness, but I suspect that they are just being cheep which would also explain why they went with a sensor that didn't line up properly.

I wonder if anyone at GM is reading this if so they should be thinking of product improvement.

[DeepBlueGXP]

Great job, thanks for posting...

[HAMMER DOWN]

This looks like a pretty straight forward install.

What I don't understand is why GM would knowingly use a sensor that had the mounting holes out of alignment?  I mean come on this is going to cause problems when a tech cross threads a bolt or as the plastic ages it cracks because it's been side loaded.

As for solder vs crimp connections the crimp tend to be preferred because:
A)  Solder connections can be a source of corrosion and lead to a high resistance connection.  The flux in solder is corrosive if not cleaned off properly and with stranded wire the flux tends to be wicked up the wire under the insulation which makes it impossible to be cleaned off properly.

B)  Soldered connections also reduce the flexibility of the wire in the area of the solder joint.  If the wire is subject to vibrations this inflexibility is prone to cause breakage.

C)  Crimps tend to be faster to do and require less skill on the part of the tech doing the install.

What GM should have done is just have a connector on the end of the new sensors that plugs into the existing wire harness, but I suspect that they are just being cheep which would also explain why they went with a sensor that didn't line up properly.

I wonder if anyone at GM is reading this if so they should be thinking of product improvement.

I have more problems with corrosion using crimp connector, when exposed to the weather. This is why car factories solder all there wire splices. Because car factories use black tape over the splices. Over long time air get in there & corrosion start. If using good heat shrink. Would give a air tight sealed splice.

If I remember right, that's the same TMAP sensor used in the Corvettes. Off the shelf, almost fits and close enough 

Mike

[Sly Bob]

  Nice job HAMMER DOWN.

When I do heat shrinked connections in the car that are going to be subjected to the elements, I always use a little silicone grease over the solder joint before shrinking the tubing over it to keep out moisture. Just me being anal.

I'm really thinking this should be my next mod. Too bad the kit is so expensive in Canada. 

[baconbits]

We used to have wiring failure problems due to vibrationon one of our turbines.. we tried solder..brittled the wire and broke.. we tried crimp..wire failed and broke on edge of crimp connector.. these below solved the problem and never had another failure.. If you have never seen them, they are a crimp butt spice connector with a low temperature solder impregnated into it, all encapsulated in a clear heat shrink..
To install just crimp as normal then use a heat gun to melt solder and heat shrink.. this works very well..and when your done you can see the connection



Butt Connectors, Crimp & Solder, Multilink Sealed 

Mfr. National Standard Parts Associates

 $66.83 - $80.82
Crimp & Solder Butt Connectors, Multilink Sealed. The Multilink Sealed Crimp & Solder Connectors are crimped for reliability, soldered for superior strength and conductivity and sealed for maximum durability.

Seamless butt connectors offer superior performance. - Window in butt connectors allows for visual inspection to ensure that wires are fully inserted
Butt connectors have crimp indicators where the installation tools should be positioned
Wire-stop in butt connector prevents the over-insertion of wire
Pre-fluxed, low temperature solder delivers superior current flow and tensile strength
Adhesive lined polyolefin to seal the connection
Color-coded wire gauge imprint for easy wire size identification

 

[Sly Bob]

Butt Connectors, Crimp & Solder, Multilink Sealed 

Mfr. National Standard Parts Associates

 $66.83 - $80.82
Crimp & Solder Butt Connectors, Multilink Sealed. The Multilink Sealed Crimp & Solder Connectors are crimped for reliability, soldered for superior strength and conductivity and sealed for maximum durability.

Seamless butt connectors offer superior performance. - Window in butt connectors allows for visual inspection to ensure that wires are fully inserted
Butt connectors have crimp indicators where the installation tools should be positioned
Wire-stop in butt connector prevents the over-insertion of wire
Pre-fluxed, low temperature solder delivers superior current flow and tensile strength
Adhesive lined polyolefin to seal the connection
Color-coded wire gauge imprint for easy wire size identification 

No link? You're just teasin' us... 

[Hoosier GXP]

No link? You're just teasin' us... 

Just to help "baconbits"  I also use some of these here are a couple of links

http://cableorganizer.com/multilink-butt-splices/?src=froogle&CAWELAID=261926103

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=17441F&WT.mc_id=gb1

[baconbits]

Thanks for the link..I used to buy them from the local mobile nut and bolt guy..
there not cheap.. but nice to have in the garage
Bacon

[DRM]

Thanks HAMMER DOWN for the great direction and pics....I used your instructions to do my hardware installation.  Now I just need to find a dealer to install the software.  How much did the software install cost you?

In your step 10, I installed the TMAP sensor in the opposite direction to keep the wires from the hood strut...Does it matter?

Also does anyone know if I have to set the waste gate setting back to stock for the software download?

Thanks

[HAMMER DOWN]

In your step 10, I installed the TMAP sensor in the opposite direction to keep the wires from the hood strut...Does it matter?

No, the TMAP sensor can go either way.

Now I just need to find a dealer to install the software.  How much did the software install cost you?


My deal never did this before, go people. It took them 2X to flash the GMPP tune for it work right with out throwing the P2227 code. $82 later I'm 

Also does anyone know if I have to set the waste gate setting back to stock for the software download?

  IMO I would set it back to stock to be safe.

After 200 miles on the new tune, I can hit 21psi on flat roads. It was 19psi right after the tune & 17psi on stock tune. Why?  but I love it.

Mike

[DRM]

In your step 10, I installed the TMAP sensor in the opposite direction to keep the wires from the hood strut...Does it matter?

No, the TMAP sensor can go either way.

Now I just need to find a dealer to install the software.  How much did the software install cost you?


My deal never did this before, go people. It took them 2X to flash the GMPP tune for it work right with out throwing the P2227 code. $82 later I'm 

Also does anyone know if I have to set the waste gate setting back to stock for the software download?

  IMO I would set it back to stock to be safe.

After 200 miles on the new tune, I can hit 21psi on flat roads. It was 19psi right after the tune & 17psi on stock tune. Why?  but I love it.

Mike

Thanks Mike

[DRM]

Well I took my Solstice to the local Chevy dealer and they were more than happy to download the tune for $83.00.

This Chevy dealer had not done the download for a Solstice before. The tech was having trouble getting the download, so he called GM and had to give them my VIN # and the serial number on the first page of the installation guide. After the call to GM, the tech could download the program and other updates to my car.

The download only seemed to take 20 minutes or so. I told the tech that the download should take an hour. He told me that sometimes its faster.

So far no codes have been thrown and the car feels much stronger...if that makes sense.

The tech also gave me a print out of the software updates that were done.

It's to wet here to really try out the car today.

[reedred]

So I'm doing this install myself (yes, you're ed right- it is the apocalypse!) and I have a question.  I tried using the search function to see if someone already asked this, but that didn't go too well.



The GMPP instructions suggest using Red Loctite 262 to secure the two bolts that hold the sensors in.  That concerns me, because I'm quite aware of the history behind the guy who is putting them in and his seemingly endless capacity for screwing things up.  While I am confident that this is going to go well, I don't really want to install it so permanently that it ends up being difficult for someone with a clue to fix.  Do y'all think I could secure the sensors well enough with Blue Loctite 242?  If so, am I right to think I don't really need to worry about this application being an Oxygen rich system?

[Sly Bob]

I have had mine out a few times as I changed charge tubes and have never put Loctite on the screws nor was there any on the screws when the car was new.

If I was to put ANY Loctite on those little guys it wouldn't be anything any stronger than purple, maybe blue but although I can see the instructions say red, I wouldn't be using that.

[reedred]

Thanks Bob!

[2kwk4u]

Lactate on 'em!  Lactate on 'em GOOOOOOD!   

[Sol Asylum]

Don't use red, it does not come apart easy and you will most likely have to use heat to break the bond.

If you felt the need to use a thread locker I would not hesitate to use the blue (24x series) as it's not that hard to break free fasteners that it has been used on.

I believe the "oxygen rich" warning has to do with how the Loctite cures, basically it's like super glue and cures in the absence of oxygen but an oxygen rich environment will prevent it from curing at all.  In this application it shouldn't be an issue.

Another thing to keep in mind is that Loctite doesn't play well with some plastics and can cause the plastic to crack even when you don't think you have gotten any of the Loctite on the plastic.  I have seen this many times when one of out assemblers use Loctite in an application that it wasn't called for like say a screw that passes through an acrylic or polycarbonate lens.  The lens will fog and craze sometimes if enough Loctite was used the lens will crumble and break out around the screw.

PS just for fun reread that last part but substitute lactate in place of Loctite.