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Author Topic: Clutch adjustment  (Read 7835 times)

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Offline redcomet303

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Clutch adjustment
« on: September 27, 2010, 10:00:21 AM »
Can some one tell me how to adjust our clutch pedals. My clutch starts to engage at about 50% of pedal travel and would like to make it engage at a bout 10%.

I can get the clutch to start disengaging pushing in on the clutch about 10%.

Offline Critterman

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2010, 10:36:35 AM »
It is a hydrolic clutch, there is no adjustment.
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Offline redcomet303

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2010, 10:41:12 AM »
Ok so the pedal itself cannot be adjusted then? I have adjusted hydraulic pedals before on an eclipse GSX and all it took was a wrench.

But I don't want to mess anything up trying to do the same to this car. I'm not wanting to adjust the clutch itself just the pedal.

Offline redcomet303

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2010, 12:18:32 PM »
Ok so after doing more research into this it seems like the further away from the floor my clutch engages the more worn out it is or something to that effect. Well that just SUCKS!!!!! I was really hoping I could adjust the pedal to engage the clutch down low I hate having 40% of the clutch travel do nothing.

Found the first thing I don't like about this car.

Offline snaponbob

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2010, 12:41:21 PM »
Not correct. A self adjusting system will maintain the same clutch pedal action right up to slippage. Spec offers a non-self adjusting clutch/flywheel package, but it offers no adjustment either. THAT one is the type that the pedal action moves with wear.
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Offline Critterman

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2010, 01:10:06 PM »
Every GXP I have driven the engagement is just off the floor, not sure about the redline, but would assume it is the same.

NA pedal is higher off the floor before engagement.
GONE: (but not forgotten) 2006 Cool named IXABEL (BISH-AH-BEL) Mayan for "Good Roads"
DDM StageIII intercooled Supercharger, Wisco ceramic coated pistons, Carrillo rods, superTech valves and Springs, Ported and polished head, Exedy Stage II Clutch,
big brake kit, slotted/drilled Rotors w/Porterfield pads & blue juice, Backbone, Probeam, Cross Strut Brace Underhood, trunk, & door Lights, ZOK suspension
JPM Center console, door inserts, & dash Seat bolster & lumbar support
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Offline Sol Asylum

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2010, 01:19:45 PM »
If you are real short you could do the Chuckdoc/Elff pedal mod.  You just install a block of wood on the pedal so that when fully depressed it doesn't "feel" like your foot is almost on the floor.
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Offline redcomet303

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2010, 02:24:16 PM »
yeah I'm 6'3 so its not a hight issue just an annoyance. Even the GM techs have said my car is hard to drive because the clutch engages high. They of course offered no fix for this.

Offline snaponbob

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2010, 05:52:13 PM »
yeah I'm 6'3 so its not a hight issue just an annoyance. Even the GM techs have said my car is hard to drive because the clutch engages high. They of course offered no fix for this.

There is no "fix".
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
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Offline 1LILNDN

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #9 on: September 28, 2010, 09:46:55 PM »
  redcomet303 : There is no Fix / Fix . The Only way is to Get it replaced with new Assembly . Company that Bought all the Trailers from the Boxwood Plant in NJ has the OEM assembly reasonable. They were in Canton ,Ohio the nationals.  

             ebay@icsautoparts.com   :sorry:    this turned out to be e-mail addressonly   Hope this helps you
« Last Edit: September 30, 2010, 11:48:55 PM by 1 LIL NDN »
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Offline redcomet303

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2010, 10:06:35 AM »
I see. I went a head and looked at the pedal itself and see that it works off of springs so yes this type of pedal is very new to me. At least it shouldn't ever stick to the floor like the on in my 98 eclipse GSX did. That was a fun time. I'm just now getting used to RWD I have really only owned FWD and AWD cars before so I am used to having to adjust things to get everything just right. Although I had a Cobalt SS before this car and never thought to try anything with that car but it looks like it was the same way.


Offline snaponbob

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2010, 03:42:57 PM »
Just so you are not tempted to buy a new clutch in the hopes that the pedal action changes, it will not. The advantage of hydraulic self adjusting clutch systems are also a minor drawback - namely no adjustment available. Besides the cost of the clutch system, the shop labor charge is NINE hours. SERIOUS dollars. Basically, if it isn't slipping, it is good. Different people have had different luck with the GXPs and Redlines. I have been beating on my clutch for four years of Solo events on asphalt and concrete, with stock tunes and then some serious power, and with 295 and the 315 race rubber. At 24K miles the clutch is still pretty healthy. That said, it is coming out this winter in favor of a Spec clutch and 9 pound Fidanza flywheel. THEN we will see what amount of wear has occurred.
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
DDM ProBeam & Tower brace, CCW 18x11 wheels for racing

Offline kennysabarese

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #12 on: September 29, 2010, 04:06:02 PM »
Only thing I can recommend is a clutch stop. Basically something that physically stops the clutch travel so you don't push it further than you need.

Often you see a bracket with a bolt so you can move it up and down to adjust.
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Offline timlange3

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2010, 09:01:52 AM »
Hello!

Looking at http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/components/2007-pontiac-solstice~clutch-pedal-cylinders-2m000030100-lnfma52mg67.html does not give one a good picture, but it does show the clutch pedal arm
does rotate around an axis and that there appears to be a connecting rod that changes the action to a linear motion.  Even if all these components have no built in adjustments one could fabricate new ones with the length
of the connecting rod being different or have it connect to the clutch pedal at a different location.  Only a slight change may produce the desired effect.

This is a critical component so one should be sure any changes do not degrade the reliability of the system.

Maybe one can be had from a salvage yard to examine closely for possible modifications.

Tim.
Tim.

Offline Sol Asylum

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Re: Clutch adjustment
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2010, 01:33:44 PM »
It's hydraulic which means that the slave cylinder will move the clutch a given distance for a given distance change of the master cylinder.  The only way to make the slave move more/less for a given pedal position is to change the volume of one of the cylinders.

Changing the length of the actuating rod for the master will change the at rest position of the pedal.  So if you want to make the pedal at full deflection higher off the floor it will result in the pedal being higher when at rest.  You could change the location of the attach point for the actuating rod on the pedal arm to compensate but this will change the force applied to the actuating rod and also change the pedal travel.
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Offline spider

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