Author Topic: Spark Plugs.... (Read 30714 times)

sol_man · « **on:** January 29, 2009, 11:31:08 AM »

Has anyone changed their plugs and seen any nice improvements? While I'm sure you don't gain gobs of HP some of the new plugs out there seem to offer some improvements over the stock ones.

Whatever you do, don't try the Pulstar plugs!!

Go-N Def · « **Reply #1 on:** January 29, 2009, 11:38:32 AM »

Nice! Thanks for the warning!

Critterman · « **Reply #2 on:** January 29, 2009, 01:59:54 PM »

Have a bit of a miss-fire did you?

Cheers · « **Reply #3 on:** January 29, 2009, 02:09:04 PM »

Something I'm starting to wonder about, made the appointment for the 45K checkup yesterday ....

snaponbob · « **Reply #4 on:** January 29, 2009, 02:48:14 PM »

There was a service letter (TSB?) that went out in 2007 about light load misfires that called for replacing the spark plugs with slightly hotter range plugs. I had this done two years ago under warranty (Federal Emissions). The tech said he couldn't believe the car actually ran at given how sooted up they were. And, boy they were REALLY carbon fouled. Since then, NO issues. AAMOF, the old part number is no longer in the system.

sol_man · « **Reply #5 on:** January 29, 2009, 05:36:47 PM »

I've looked at the E3 plugs but after my mess with the Pulstar I'm a little leary. The tip melted in the engine somewhere. There are days when I first start it that it bucks a little since this happened. Not sure how I'd explain that to the dealer but I'm afraid of what it has done to the cylinder wall.

Frank I · « **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2009, 06:28:16 PM »

Quote from: sol_man on January 29, 2009, 05:36:47 PM

I've looked at the E3 plugs but after my mess with the Pulstar I'm a little leary. The tip melted in the engine somewhere. There are days when I first start it that it bucks a little since this happened. Not sure how I'd explain that to the dealer but I'm afraid of what it has done to the cylinder wall.

sol_man
Doubt anything happen to the cylinder. It may have done minor damage to the top of the piston, combustion chamber or nicked a exhaust valve but it is very doubtful it would have hurt the cylinder liner. Most likely the ground strap tip went out one of the two exhaust valves.

As for changing of the plugs in the future, you may find it best to stick with iridium plugs either AC or some other name brand like Denzo or NGK. It is doubtful you will get any better spark fire with other types of special plugs especially on a Direct Injection type engine.

When you say it "bucks". Is it safe to assume it is not the normal slight hesitation (bucking) upon warm up that most of the GXP's make? Does the bucking stop when the engine warms up? If so, and if it is the normal most of us experience, I would not be concerned. Just my two cents.

Frank

Imaj · « **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:38:47 PM »

Sorry to ask this here...But could someone share with me how to take out the old plugs? I do not see a how to o this? I mean...what do I push pull pinch to get them out? Thanks!

Deep-GXP · « **Reply #8 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:41:33 PM »

Quote from: snaponbob on January 29, 2009, 02:48:14 PM

There was a service letter (TSB?) that went out in 2007 about light load misfires that called for replacing the spark plugs with slightly hotter range plugs. I had this done two years ago under warranty (Federal Emissions). The tech said he couldn't believe the car actually ran at given how sooted up they were. And, boy they were REALLY carbon fouled. Since then, NO issues. AAMOF, the old part number is no longer in the system.

Is this only for the 07's? I have an 08. Is there anyway to tell by VIN #?

sol_man · « **Reply #9 on:** February 05, 2009, 09:36:24 AM »

When cold the engine will rattle like it has a plug removed but when it is really warmed up it's normal. That is something it didn't do before this happened. My thought was if it went through one of the exhaust valves what could it to do the turbo? Apparently not too much because the car still runs great when it's warmed up, just something I wished had never happened! For $25 a plug I wasn't expecting that. I might try the Denzo this year, after the snow melts and I can get the car out of the garage!

tazz · « **Reply #10 on:** April 26, 2009, 11:04:44 PM »

Could someone give the steps on a how to check and change plugs and the PN# for the new plugs.
I have a 07 GXP Sol that I bought used back in Feb of this year. The vehicle only had 6900 mile on it but not sure when it was manufactured or if the plugs have been changed out for the new hotter ones.
The vehicle does seem to have a tad bit of a rough idle like maybe one plug has a mis when first started and RPM's are higher until it backs down then the rough idle is gone.

Sky 5 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 27, 2009, 12:01:56 AM »

For the 2.0L Kappa its Delco 41-108.
No aftermarket plug even comes close
... though they all promise better performance.

Blanket statement #52 : "The Kappa plugs are not something that need to be upgraded."
Just replace them every 20K miles and enjoy. Your car will love you for it.
'Bout the cost of an oil change and almost as easy to DIY.

tazz · « **Reply #12 on:** April 27, 2009, 12:11:59 AM »

To my understanding there is a hotter plug that GM puts in under a TSB since some early model 07 GXP's have cold start issues. Carbon fouling to be more specific on the colder heat range plugs originally put in at the factory on early models.
Just want to check my plugs and if they are the old style replace either myself or take it to the dealer.
I'm not afraid to check my plugs on a regular basis just need to find out what the new hotter plug looks like and the PN for that plug.

Sky 5 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 27, 2009, 12:28:02 AM »

Quote from: tazz on April 27, 2009, 12:11:59 AM

Just want to check my plugs and if they are the old style replace either myself or take it to the dealer.

Just go ahead and put in the newest available (hotter) plugs from GM (41-108).

After getting a used car it's one of the first things to do... after changing the oil.
That way you start fresh... with juice that you're sure of... and nice clean sparks.

Edited to add: AC DELCO 41-108 = GM#12617309

lil goat · « **Reply #14 on:** April 27, 2009, 07:29:50 AM »

Quote from: tazz on April 27, 2009, 12:11:59 AM

To my understanding there is a hotter plug that GM puts in under a TSB since some early model 07 GXP's have cold start issues. Carbon fouling to be more specific on the colder heat range plugs originally put in at the factory on early models.
Just want to check my plugs and if they are the old style replace either myself or take it to the dealer.
I'm not afraid to check my plugs on a regular basis just need to find out what the new hotter plug looks like and the PN for that plug.

There is no spark plug TSB, I checked. They reccommend changing the plugs for a cold starting issue, yea I know doesn't make sense to me either but I guess it keeps them from having to change a zillion plugs for free.

birdliver · « **Reply #15 on:** April 27, 2009, 07:57:07 AM »

My 07 was the first GXP delivered so it obviously has the original colder plugs. I drive fairly aggressively and they have never been the least bit of a problem for me and since my car runs extremely lean with the stock tune I have always been reluctant to go hotter. What am I missing here?

lil goat · « **Reply #16 on:** April 27, 2009, 08:39:12 AM »

To be honest I don't know if I have the old ones or the new ones but no issues so I have left them alone. I just asked the dealer about then TSB last time I was there.

LatinVenom · « **Reply #17 on:** April 27, 2009, 08:52:07 AM »

If you have no problems do not change them, I have he original plugs like you and no problems either.

Sky 5 · « **Reply #18 on:** April 27, 2009, 09:26:01 AM »

The thing about the plugs in the Kappa turbo is... if you have been good to your car from the factory, then they will be OK. Still wouldn't hurt to give your ride fresh sparks though. But, if you pick up a used unit you never really know how the original owner treated it. Some people buy a $30K car and then drive out of their way to buy the cheapest no-name brand 87oct gas in town. The plugs will suffer for it. Also, many get in their car, fire it up, jam it in reverse, back it out of the driveway, and zoom on down the road. The plugs will degrade quickly with that bad habit too. Engine temp needs be up to about 180*F before the ECM takes full control. At startup the car runs rich and if not allowed to warmup regularly, the plugs will foul and the tailpipes will get the telltale high buildup of carbon, considerably more than the already standard sooting from the turbo.

tazz · « **Reply #19 on:** April 27, 2009, 10:23:49 PM »

Other than fouling issue some may have with the stock colder plug are there any advantages on going to a hotter plug if no fouling is present?
For a high boost and or high compression engine you want the coldest plug possible without fouling correct?
Also with the colder stock plug you will reduce the chance of knock vs if you go to the hotter replacement GM plug Right? Since there's less chance of pre-ignition at the tip.
Sorry for all the ?'s

Frank I · « **Reply #20 on:** April 28, 2009, 12:25:10 AM »

Quote from: tazz on April 27, 2009, 10:23:49 PM

Other than fouling issue some may have with the stock colder plug are there any advantages on going to a hotter plug if no fouling is present?
For a high boost and or high compression engine you want the coldest plug possible without fouling correct?
Also with the colder stock plug you will reduce the chance of knock vs if you go to the hotter replacement GM plug Right? Since there's less chance of pre-ignition at the tip.
Sorry for all the ?'s

Tazz:

The 07 GXP came from the factory with AC 41-104's. This is a hotter plug then the AC 41-108.

The reason for the change to the hotter plug was some people were starting their cars and letting the engine idle and then shutting their engine off. Most of these occurrences were made by people who were storing their cars over the winter months and just starting their engine to keep their battery up while being stored. This was causing the plugs to foul since the engine was not run long enough to clean the plugs.

When you pull your plugs and if they are not fouled, don't replace them. On a direct injection engine you will find the plugs to look like they are full of carbon, but if the center electrode is clean and the ground strap is clean on the underside (above the tip of the center electrode) then the plugs are not fouled. Running a hotter plug when not necessary does not make good sense, especially in a Turbo car.

tazz · « **Reply #21 on:** April 28, 2009, 09:56:44 AM »

Now I'm a bit confused.
Which one is the colder plug?
Which one is the hotter plug?
Your last statement is correct "Running a hotter plug when not necessary does not make good sense, especially in a Turbo car."
So depending on which plug I have whether it was OK or fouled I would want the colder plug in any case.
I'm pulling them this morning so I can take a look at them.
Thanks

Sky 5 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 28, 2009, 10:16:41 AM »

Again, go with the 41-108's from the dealership.

tazz · « **Reply #23 on:** April 28, 2009, 10:35:29 AM »

Just pulled them and they look OK but one has a bit more discoloration than the rest ( 3rd one from the left). The far left is the plug closet to the windshield. Also the number on the plug that came from the factory on my 07 GXP is 41-102.
My vehicle was used but I really don't think the guy changed plugs since the vehicle only had 6,900 miles on it when I bought it in Feb of this year.

LatinVenom · « **Reply #24 on:** April 28, 2009, 12:32:26 PM »

The lower number is the colder plug. Like you said they looked OK and if I were you just clean them up and put them back in.

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Author Topic: Spark Plugs.... (Read 30714 times)

lil goat

lil goat