Author Topic: Power Bleeder flush order (Read 5702 times)

kennysabarese · « **on:** March 27, 2011, 10:55:31 AM »

I noticed in the GM manual brake bleeding process that the order is different from what is recommended with a power bleeder.

GM manual process is RR - LF - LR - RF as written here:

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f42/bleeding-brakes-w-abs-there-special-procedure-30187/#post467643

The normal power bleeder process is: RR - LR - RF - LF

Is there any reason that the power bleeding process would be different than standard?

scoobyless · « **Reply #1 on:** March 27, 2011, 11:27:37 AM »

I wouldn't be concerned, both methods will move new fluid through the lines from rear to front so you can do what ever you like. The GM method does each system separately (DF/PR is one system, PF/DR is the other) while the power bleeder mixes them up. Key thing is doing the rear first on either system, the GM may use less fluid for a full flush but I doubt it.

kennysabarese · « **Reply #2 on:** March 27, 2011, 11:46:35 AM »

Ok. about go to out and do it. Thanks

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #3 on:** March 27, 2011, 12:14:16 PM »

Quote from: Kenny on March 27, 2011, 11:46:35 AM

Ok. about go to out and do it. Thanks

what are you using for a power bleeder? I've only ever done it the old fashion / two person method. I'm curious what power bleeder folks are finding work well.

Good luck with it Kenny. Don't get it all over the driveway! If you can, take a photo of the old fluid and give us a breakdown of how many miles on that fluid. Curious to see how the "wear" is on it. Plus, to see how your track sessions have done.

GJ

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 27, 2011, 12:17:59 PM »

Quote from: Kenny on March 27, 2011, 11:46:35 AM

Ok. about go to out and do it. Thanks

That's funny, just did the brakes on a friend's Mustang yesterday. Don't forget to take the parking brake off!

kennysabarese · « **Reply #5 on:** March 27, 2011, 01:50:07 PM »

Yeah I didn't have the parking brake pulled cuz the cars on 4 jack stands and i've swapped the pads and flushed the brake fluid changed the oil and am going to do the shocks and springs finally!

The old fluid looked great, wasn't dirty at all. But it should be changed yearly if you are on the track.

I put in ATE TYP200 which is the same as superblue but it's gold so you can tell when the fluid has made it through the system.

JoshMcMadMac · « **Reply #6 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:35:18 AM »

Quote from: Gentleman Jack on March 27, 2011, 12:14:16 PM

what are you using for a power bleeder? I've only ever done it the old fashion / two person method. I'm curious what power bleeder folks are finding work well.

I have a Motive Power Bleeder that has worked awesome for me. It was cheaper back when I got it, but I think I looked at them recently for ~$55: http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Power-Bleeder-American/dp/B000TYJEWW

I have used mine so much that I ended up fatiguing the plastic ends and hose...so I got brass fittings from the hardware store and have a longer hose to work with now. I even modified it with an air nozzle so I can pump it up with compressed air.

kennysabarese · « **Reply #7 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:38:07 AM »

Yeah that's what I used. Works fine.

NormSky · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2011, 09:03:29 PM »

Unless you have a Tech-ll and are controlling the abs, just bleed furtherst from the master cylinder.

kennysabarese · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2011, 09:38:03 PM »

Eh just one? i want to replace all fluid. Well as much as possible at least.

tazz · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2011, 09:49:53 PM »

Quote from: JoshMcMadMac on March 28, 2011, 10:35:18 AM

I have a Motive Power Bleeder that has worked awesome for me. It was cheaper back when I got it, but I think I looked at them recently for ~$55: http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Power-Bleeder-American/dp/B000TYJEWW

I have used mine so much that I ended up fatiguing the plastic ends and hose...so I got brass fittings from the hardware store and have a longer hose to work with now. I even modified it with an air nozzle so I can pump it up with compressed air.

I actually have one for my Ford truck and was wondering how much a extra adapter would cost so I could do the Sol. My brake fluid looks like dark tea.

tazz · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2011, 09:53:02 PM »

Quote from: NormSky on March 28, 2011, 09:03:29 PM

Unless you have a Tech-ll and are controlling the abs, just bleed furtherst from the master cylinder.

I was thinking about that since only with the Tech II can you open the ABS valves to get a total flow through.

NormSky · « **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:13:44 PM »

Kenny, START at the furthest from the master cylinder. Of course you know that, silly!

kennysabarese · « **Reply #13 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:15:16 PM »

Whew yes i did know that!

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:49:06 PM »

Quote from: tazz on March 28, 2011, 09:49:53 PM

I actually have one for my Ford truck and was wondering how much a extra adapter would cost so I could do the Sol. My brake fluid looks like dark tea.

I've got an adapter that fits a Kappa. Was for the early '80s Volvo my dad had. Pretty sure he got it from Motive along with the bleeder.

elff · « **Reply #15 on:** March 28, 2011, 11:02:15 PM »

Thats genius.
I just ordered that motive thing. It will be awesome for the jeep and cutting brakes!

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 28, 2011, 11:11:17 PM »

It really does work great. Takes longer to get everything set up than it does to actually bleed the brakes.

NormSky · « **Reply #17 on:** March 29, 2011, 12:02:02 AM »

That's why I have four speed bleeders! Takes longer to jack up and remove wheel than crack and pump.

elff · « **Reply #18 on:** April 04, 2011, 10:28:51 AM »

I had to replace 2 brake lines in the jeep the other day.
This tool Rules!!!

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Author Topic: Power Bleeder flush order (Read 5702 times)