Topic: fe3 zok sways w/ fe2 springs/shocks?

[ophidia31]

What should I be expecting from this? I know its not natural to have this kind of setup, but Im not 100% on what I want to do as far as spring/shocks selection or just get coilovers. I have a few ideas kicking around in the head and that probably wont be. But I was itching to do something to the car and the cyber monday sale at ddm had me getting the zok package they had since the discount was basically free shipping. Im guessing it will definitly exploit how soft the rest of the suspension will be

[snaponbob]

The ride will remain the same and the car will corner flatter. No harm, no foul. You are fine.

[kennysabarese]

I ran this way for a long time. Works great. You loose a tiny bit of comfort in the case of hitting a bump only with one tire, the other side of the car will dip more than it used to. But it's totally worth it. Body roll is massively minimized.

[ophidia31]

Thanks for the replies. Kinda figured it may get a little more rough since , in terms of an evolutionary leap in swaybar size, going from the wirey fe2s to the ibeam zoks. Just gotta figure out what I want to do for springs/shocks. 

[snaponbob]

Thanks for the replies. Kinda figured it may get a little more rough since , in terms of an evolutionary leap in swaybar size, going from the wirey fe2s to the ibeam zoks. Just gotta figure out what I want to do for springs/shocks. 

Those sway bars are not THAT stiff !!!!!

As for shocks and springs, how firm do you want, and what do you do with your car?

[ophidia31]

Those sway bars are not THAT stiff !!!!!

As for shocks and springs, how firm do you want, and what do you do with your car?

In comparison, they are to me. lol

Just got them on tonight and ho-lee crap, Im in love with this car all over again. Didnt think they would make that big of a difference but after removing the stock ones and doing an eyeball and just a weight comparison in my hands i knew that these were not screwing around.

As for shocks/springs, I want something lower, but a functional drop and not on the ground. Even though itd look badass, I wouldnt be able to drive that all the time. Not looking for a teeth jarring ride since it is my d.d. Like, when you hit a bump its more of a thud and not something that feels like your car is going to fall apart. If that makes sense. And something that can take the abuse when  i decide to throw it through some turns. Which is more often than not.

[Gentleman Jack]

My opinion-
Best set up for you is to use GXP shocks with GXP-Z0K springs. It dropped my car (GXP) half and inch and did all the things you are looking for.  I love it.

[GXPinKC]

My opinion-
Best set up for you is to use GXP shocks with GXP-Z0K springs. It dropped my car (GXP) half and inch and did all the things you are looking for.  I love it.

Do it!  You will love the result cause everyone who has done it, loves it!

[snaponbob]

Did the GXP Bilsteins and GXP/Z0K springs. Save a bundle on the shocks and snag some take offs from someone on the various Kappa forums, from DDM, or e-bay. Springs can be had from someone like Crate Engine for about a 30% off list price.

[ophidia31]

Nice. That combo is what I was kind of leaning towards in my head, but was not so sure about how the two would work together. Unless I change my mind, I think thats pretty much what Im going to go with next year. And if Im not mistaken, each model got lower than the next. ie. the fe3 is lower than fe2 and then the zok is lower than the fe3. So would I not see a larger drop going from fe2s now to the zoks than if i already had fe3 setup on the car?

[snaponbob]

Nice. That combo is what I was kind of leaning towards in my head, but was not so sure about how the two would work together. Unless I change my mind, I think thats pretty much what Im going to go with next year. And if Im not mistaken, each model got lower than the next. ie. the fe3 is lower than fe2 and then the zok is lower than the fe3. So would I not see a larger drop going from fe2s now to the zoks than if i already had fe3 setup on the car?

Actually, the ride height should be the same between the 2 and 3. The GXP Z0K springs should mean about 3/4 - 1". Having driven an FE2 (when I was shopping in 2006), and then buying a Redline, I found the "ride" of the FE3 to be better as the body motions were more well controlled. The GXP/Z0K package will snug it up some more, but is hardly harsh. Do NOT forget that after the lower springs are installed, you MUST have a full four wheel alignment. BTW, you will be convinced you have a different car.

[ophidia31]

Good info. Went out driving all over gods creations with all road conditions and noticed over low speed rough roads the back end sound like its ready to fall off. It was like this before the swaybars but not as bad. Im convinced its comming from the trunk lid/buttress area because when I hit the latch area on the buttress, it makes a similar noise. Ive been searching forever on both big forums and cant find anything that deals with clunking/rattling, other than 100s of threads of driveline clunk. Which this isnt because there isnt any clunking with the top down.

Am I the only one with these issues or am i the only one who just didnt learn to live with it yet?

[Critterman]

Standard answer for any noise while driving, turn up the radio until you can't hear it. 

[MomsSol]

Standard answer for any noise while driving, turn up the radio until you can't hear it. 

I thought another solution was to get a louder exhaust   

[diamoney]

Don't forget to check for any loose,  unsecured bowling balls.  Not only do they make a great thunking noise, but they can cause unexpected swelling of the rear fender.....

...the top being down may also restrain the object as well.   

[ophidia31]

So what youre saying is to basically learn to love it? 

I guess it makes sense that the stiffer a car gets, the things that arent really ATTACHED attached (ie top, trunk, hood, doors, exhaust) want to move around where with a softer chassis and suspension, there was still some compliance for the body to absorb anything before it reached those parts.

[Sol Asylum]

I thought another solution was to get a louder exhaust   

Is that possible on Critters car?

[Critterman]

WHAT?

[ophidia31]

So, I want to get rid of the poly bushings that came with the bars from ddm and go back to the stock rubber ones. I see in the Suspension Packages and Usage thread that the rear bushings use new clamps but say nothing about the front ones. Will I still be able to use the stock clamps from the fe2 front bar with the fe3/zok front bushings or will I need fe3/zok clamps for the fe3 bushings?

[snaponbob]

Simply put - no, and then yes. The FE3 front bar will need FE3 clamps and bushings. FWIW, for non-track driving the rubber bushings are fine. Frankly, the poly bushings (even when well lubed) bind as they really are too tight. Just measure an installed poly sway bar bushing WITHOUT a bar in place and you will see why.

[ophidia31]

So, I need fe3 clamps/bushings up front and zok clamps/bushings in back? Do you know the part# for the front clamps?

As for the binding, I notice this all the time. Mostly in the morning since I park in a little gravel like patch and then it slants up a little onto the road. When the car angles up onto the road, you can hear it when it tweaks. After it gets moving, i dont hear anything anymore. There is also alot more noise transmitted into the car frrom what Im assuming is the harder poly. Im hoping the stock rubber bushings will cut down on this. If this was a weekend warrior/track car, I can care less, but I have to deal with that everyday.

[snaponbob]

So, I need fe3 clamps/bushings up front and zok clamps/bushings in back? Do you know the part# for the front clamps?

As for the binding, I notice this all the time. Mostly in the morning since I park in a little gravel like patch and then it slants up a little onto the road. When the car angles up onto the road, you can hear it when it tweaks. After it gets moving, i dont hear anything anymore. There is also alot more noise transmitted into the car frrom what Im assuming is the harder poly. Im hoping the stock rubber bushings will cut down on this. If this was a weekend warrior/track car, I can care less, but I have to deal with that everyday.

You might want go to Crate Engine Depot, find their phone number, and give them a call. About as cheap as you will get for GM parts. I DID have the numbers, but my old desktop shot craps last week - so GONE.

Anything that firms up the suspension will transmit more NVH, but staying with rubber will help some.