Author Topic: My thoughts about my Spec Stage 3+ clutch install (Read 10192 times)

bun1t · « **on:** August 05, 2012, 12:55:42 AM »

I finally completed my Spec 3+ clutch install so I figured I would post my thoughts about it.

I installed a Spec 3+ with the stock flywheel. I had the flywheel machined to Spec's specs and I used the supplied collar that comes with the kit. I used the stock flywheel because I wanted stock like driveability and it's pretty damn close. I'm still breaking in the clutch but it actually chatters less than the oem clutch.

The install is not so much hard as it is time consuming. I was able to do the entire install in my garage using jack stands and a floor jack. The top bellhousing bolts are annoying but I used a combo of long extensions that extended the entire length of the transmission and it wasn't so bad.

I was also to happy to find how clean my tranny fluid was. I blew a 3rd gear synchro that was fixed under warranty so I wanted a thinner fluid to coat the synchros a little better. I used Royal Purple 5W30 motor oil that was recommended to me by Royal Purple. I used the RP 5w30 for about 10k miles and I haven't had a synchro problem since and the fluid was so clean I could have reused it but chose to use new fluid anyways. If you're having shifting problems I would give it a try.

I'll report back when I finish breaking it in.

Kelu · « **Reply #1 on:** August 05, 2012, 05:26:14 AM »

That's an interesting combo, SPEC 3+ and stock flywheel.

Quote from: bun1t on August 05, 2012, 12:55:42 AM

The top bellhousing bolts are annoying but I used a combo of long extensions that extended the entire length of the transmission and it wasn't so bad.

I know those bolts are a pain, a picture of the combo might be useful for others DIYers

NormSky · « **Reply #2 on:** August 05, 2012, 08:45:17 AM »

Synthetic motor oil works great in the gearbox!

hammy221 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 05, 2012, 09:28:45 AM »

Man I give anyone big props doing a trans drop on jack stands! I've pulled mine 3 times using a two post lift and power tools and a trams jack and well that wasn't easy for some of it so I can't imagine how hard it is on jack stands.

bun1t · « **Reply #4 on:** August 05, 2012, 11:44:35 AM »

Quote from: NormSky on August 05, 2012, 08:45:17 AM

Synthetic motor oil works great in the gearbox!

It really does. I remember posting about it on the Sky forums and people were calling me crazy. Royal Purple said they used RP oil in all the race GXP's transmissions on the show "Set up". That was enough to convince me.

Quote from: hammy221 on August 05, 2012, 09:28:45 AM

Man I give anyone big props doing a trans drop on jack stands! I've pulled mine 3 times using a two post lift and power tools and a trams jack and well that wasn't easy for some of it so I can't imagine how hard it is on jack stands.

Thanks man. I had an electric impact but I really only used it on the axle nut and diff carrier bolts. I prefer using hand tools so I can "feel" them threading in. The worst part was pulling the tranny in 90*+ Houston heat. After that I decided to go buy a large fan which helped a lot.

hammy221 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 05, 2012, 06:33:36 PM »

Lol nice it was hot when I did mine 104 in virgina here but I had a huge fan, lift, air tools and an electiric impact driver

elff · « **Reply #6 on:** August 05, 2012, 06:58:00 PM »

Congrats man.
That is a pretty epic garage install.

I will give you 3 words of high praise

You
Da
Man!!!

bun1t · « **Reply #7 on:** August 14, 2012, 07:38:04 PM »

Update

I finally got 500 miles on it (lamest 500 miles ever btw) so I was able to really test the clutch. Holds my 380 wtq with no problem and shifts pretty easily.

Now I just have to tackle a problem with my Trifecta tune. For some reason it keeps dropping from 23psi to 18psi and I have to reset the ECU.

rlhammon · « **Reply #8 on:** September 17, 2012, 11:36:59 PM »

Nice.. now I'm not the only one to do this on jack stands.. and I had to do it twice since I kinked the dang line from the master cylinder on the first install!

You should love the clutch.. I do, but I did the lightweight fly wheel for autocross purposes and quicker spool up. Still very street driveable, but a bit difficult to get a clean stop light pull away with my loaded autocross trailer... but that's the only issue I've ever had.

idkfa · « **Reply #9 on:** September 18, 2012, 11:27:15 AM »

Hey, I'm glad you posted this, almost threw in the towel and took it to a friend's shop to have installed. I've been eyeing how I was going to do everything in my FIL's garage for months now. Did you just use the floor jack to lower the transmission? And there was enough clearance to get it out of the way?

rlhammon · « **Reply #10 on:** September 21, 2012, 08:43:53 AM »

Quote from: idkfa on September 18, 2012, 11:27:15 AM

Hey, I'm glad you posted this, almost threw in the towel and took it to a friend's shop to have installed. I've been eyeing how I was going to do everything in my FIL's garage for months now. Did you just use the floor jack to lower the transmission? And there was enough clearance to get it out of the way?

Yes, but I had heavy duty truck jack stands on all four corners so I could get the car way up in the air. When it was all said and done, we had plenty of room, as I sat upright inside the tunnel to put on the new flywheel, and I'm over 6' tall. It's a bit of work to get the car up that high, and frankly made the top tranny bolts a bit difficult, but I liked having the room for the tranny to slide out.

It's not hard to get any of this done with the car on jack stands, it's just time consuming. The bolt behind the starter, and the bolt that holds the little black cover on the passenger side were the two worst items to get out. Don't forget to set the driveline angle when you are all done. Procedure is very simple, but you just need to make sure you have the proper distance set when you install the tranny / driveshaft assembly once you torque everything down.

strikeouttruck · « **Reply #11 on:** September 25, 2012, 11:38:29 PM »

How about removing the hydrualic line to the slave? I have never done a hydraulic clutch (only big ones on tractors) and have wondered about this as Im getting ready to do a clutch. Also any advice on driveline angle, thanks!

Carbon Sky · « **Reply #12 on:** September 26, 2012, 01:30:03 AM »

I've done a few engine and tranny rebuilds. After doing one removal and reinstall, the 2nd and further go significantly faster. On a previous car, the first removal took about 4 hours. After doing it once, I could get it off in a little over an hour, and back on in about 2. You've figured out the best way to access things, and don't waste time figuring out access, i.e. the top bell housing bolts on the kappa. You don't go back and forth between the car and your tool chest for different extensions and what not.

I'm sure the next time you dig in there it'll go much faster. Great job!

rlhammon · « **Reply #13 on:** October 01, 2012, 09:28:08 AM »

Quote from: strikeouttruck on September 25, 2012, 11:38:29 PM

How about removing the hydrualic line to the slave? I have never done a hydraulic clutch (only big ones on tractors) and have wondered about this as Im getting ready to do a clutch. Also any advice on driveline angle, thanks!

To disconnect the line from the slave there is a retaining ring (sort of an Omega symbol shape). A small flat head screwdriver will pop that loose to disconnect the line.

The driveline angle is listed in the manual, of which I don't have here at work. Procedure is simple, and well shown in the service manual. Once you get the install done, tranny back in place (bell housing bolts tight), but haven't tightened up the torque beam you'll set the drive line angle. You measure up to the drive shaft where it connects to the tranny, set a distance there from the plane of the tunnel, and you're good to torque everything down.

It's well worth the pages to see what needs to be done.

strikeouttruck · « **Reply #14 on:** October 03, 2012, 08:57:20 PM »

So i take it the retaining clip is on the outside of the tranny? I have nightmares of having to try and reach a long pick in there. Thank you

rlhammon · « **Reply #15 on:** October 09, 2012, 09:33:49 PM »

Quote from: strikeouttruck on October 03, 2012, 08:57:20 PM

So i take it the retaining clip is on the outside of the tranny? I have nightmares of having to try and reach a long pick in there. Thank you

You'll need to have access to the front side of the tranny to remove the retaining clip for the hose. So, disconnect on the engine side, and pull the hose through and out with the tranny. Believe me, I tried for hours to find a way to remove that clip with the tranny installed, because I didn't want to pull it again when I kinked that hose upon install.

Brazen17 · « **Reply #16 on:** October 09, 2012, 10:52:11 PM »

I've never done a clutch before but I am mechanically competent. Do you think there is any reason why I couldn't do this myself... I can have it on jack stands as long as I need so I can take my time.

Critterman · « **Reply #17 on:** October 10, 2012, 02:52:20 PM »

Transmission removal and clutch replacement is not for the faint at heart. There are some bolts that require a bit of ingenuity. Can you do it probably, should you????????

It is expensive to have done. Just make sure whether you do it or you have it done to get the slave cylinder replaced at the same time.

You will also need an alignment tool for our cars, and to pull the flywheel and have it turned. If I think of anything else I will add it later.

elff · « **Reply #18 on:** October 10, 2012, 03:29:42 PM »

When places charge you $200 for labor in doing pads and rotors, I consider $700-$1000 for our clutch a freaking bargain and well worth every penny that I don't have to deal with the nightmare of that job.
[editor Note: I do my own brakes, but the above is a normal stealership price]

I believe DDM Works has the best Clutch install price for our cars.

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #19 on:** October 10, 2012, 03:34:05 PM »

Quote from: elff on October 10, 2012, 03:29:42 PM

I believe DDM Works has the best Clutch install price for our cars.

Actually it sounded like the guys in Romania paid less.

elff · « **Reply #20 on:** October 10, 2012, 04:15:32 PM »

And got what they paid for.

Kelu · « **Reply #21 on:** October 10, 2012, 07:16:52 PM »

I'm going to have 2nd time clutch job soon

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #22 on:** October 10, 2012, 07:30:05 PM »

I thought Andrei's clutch was good to go, it was just that other GT that was having issues.

Elff did you get what you paid for with your clutch?

Brazen17 · « **Reply #23 on:** October 10, 2012, 07:31:09 PM »

Chevy quoted me ~$1200.00. As for getting hard to reach bolts/nuts/screws - I got used to doing those when I worked maintenance on B-52's. As long as I don't need some expensive tool that would cost half of what I'd save in labor then it might be worth it. And don't forget - I'll probably be doing it a second time sooner or later.

elff · « **Reply #24 on:** October 10, 2012, 07:59:21 PM »

Quote from: Sol Asylum on October 10, 2012, 07:30:05 PM

I thought Andrei's clutch was good to go, it was just that other GT that was having issues.

Elff did you get what you paid for with your clutch?

Soon. I was a test subject and got good data.
Sometimes things don't work out, but I knew that was a possibility going in

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Author Topic: My thoughts about my Spec Stage 3+ clutch install (Read 10192 times)