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Author Topic: C6 Z06 Brakes on a '7 GXP  (Read 33721 times)

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Offline elff

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Re: C6 Z06 Brakes on a '7 GXP
« Reply #75 on: November 13, 2012, 12:54:50 PM »
I never did it, but I know you can correct the speedo for tire size changes
Would that be how you do it?

Offline TomatoSoup

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Re: C6 Z06 Brakes on a '7 GXP
« Reply #76 on: November 13, 2012, 01:02:56 PM »
Vehicle speed is taken off the transmission, not the ABS wheel 'speed' sensors (AFAIK)
"That is my theory, it is mine, and belongs to me and I own it, and what it is too." (Monty Python)

Offline elff

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Re: C6 Z06 Brakes on a '7 GXP
« Reply #77 on: November 13, 2012, 01:05:03 PM »
Then what I was thinking won't work.

sorry

Offline rlhammon

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Re: C6 Z06 Brakes on a '7 GXP
« Reply #78 on: June 21, 2016, 02:51:26 PM »
Old thread I know... but I was thinking about this again (Vette hubs on a Kappa).  All the pictures are gone (links no worky) and was hoping this was resolved with the hub sensors.

Offline Livetodrive

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Re: C6 Z06 Brakes on a '7 GXP
« Reply #79 on: March 13, 2023, 11:29:54 AM »
Hello all, I?m bumping an old thread but a friend and I are in the process of doing the same thing with my solstice, have you found a way to get abs to work/eliminate the fault? If anyone else has done this to their car and can chime in, please do. Thank you.

-Livetodrive

Offline kgschlosser

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Re: C6 Z06 Brakes on a '7 GXP
« Reply #80 on: March 19, 2023, 02:00:52 AM »
The issue is going to be because the corvette hubs use a passive sensor where as the Kappas use an active. The difference between the 2 systems is simple. active needs power to work and passive does not. Passive sensors generate their own voltage. That voltage is AC volts and the amount of voltage that is generated is tied with how fast the wheel is spinning.

You can test this pretty easily by setting a volt ohm meter to AC volts and setting the range on that meter to 10 volts or so. Connect the test leads to the 2 wires on the sensor and spin the wheel. If you get a reading on your meter then it's a passive sensor. If you do not get a reading them it is active.

If you want to confirm the sensor is active you can do this by using a phone charger, cheap led and a 220 ohm resistor. Connect the ground wire from the phone charger to the cathode lead on the LED, this will usually be the shorter of the 2 leads. You can also locate the cathode lead because on the bottom edge of the LED there will be a flat spot and the lead closest to that flat spot is the cathode lead. Connect your resistor to the anode lead on the LED (the other lead) and then connect the other end of the resistor to one of the wires on the wheel speed sensor. Connect the positive from the phone charge to the other wire on the wheel speed sensor. Plug the phone charger in and spin the wheel on the car. The LED should blink on and off when you do that.

So what you need is something that will convert an AC waveform into a PWM wave form. Yes this can be done and it's really not that hard to do.

Here is a part that might work. It is hard to tell from the description but if you look at the wording it states "not able to convert signals from 2-wire hall type ABS sensors."

We are not wanting to convert "from" a hall sensor type ABS. we are wanting to convert from a variable-reluctance (VR) "to" a hall type sensor. It also states " these modules cannot be connected to a 12V power source" which there are some vehicles (BMW) that use a 12v supply voltage to their sensors and those sensors are typically hall type sensors. I believe that these modules will not work on those types of sensors. That being said the Solstice uses a 5v sensor and the corvette has the VR sensors, so these should work.

You need one per axle, each module handles 2 sensors. You will not need to buy any kind of power supply or anything like that. All the wiring is done right at the ABS module. There are 4 signal wires one for each wheel and 4 5V "reference" wires , one for each sensor. You will cut the 8 wires free from the ABS module. the 2 wires going to each wheel will connect to the modules. each signal wire will connect to the modules. only 2 of the 5V wires will connect to the module. the other 2 get capped off for the moment.


Using these will more than likely get rid of the ABS errors that currently exist. There is a pretty good possibility that you will get different errors or even possibly the same errors but caused by a different reason. The Solstice EBCM has what is called a P.O.S.T cycle, this means Power On Self Test. When the EBCM turns on it does internal tests to make sure it's functioning properly. It also runs tests against any sensors attached to it, this includes the WSS sensors. If the errors don't go away or new ones come up then additional testing will need to be done in order to figure out exactly how the EBCM is performing the test. The test is almost 100% going to be testing for voltage on both wires to each sensor and also for ground on both wires to each sensor. The way the sensors work is by changing that 5v going into it into and up and down based on wheel movement. It is NOT an on and off of the 5v. it will be something along the lines of 2.5V is low and 5v is high.

I would worry about those kinds of issues if you come across them. A simple resistor to pull or up down the signal or a resistor across each set of wires will more than likely fix any issues that may arise.

https://sirhclabs.com/product/vr-to-hall-sensor-converter-dual-channel/

If these modules do not do the trick and we have exhausted all attempts to correct any issues cause by the EBCM POST test I will build a module that will provide everything the EBCM needs to see. I will also be able to make corrections to the pulses caused by a difference in the number of pulses per rotation.


 

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