Topic: Hey Tranny Guys!

[Brazen17]

First, get your heads out of the gutter! 

As some of you may know my clutch is starting to slip. Now, I am noticing that shifting is getting harder and quick shifting is becoming impossible. Also, downshifting from 3rd to 2nd in anything but slow motion results in gear grinding. Are these all symptoms of a bad clutch or am I looking at something more, er, expensive. 

[Carbon Sky]

First, get your heads out of the gutter! 

As some of you may know my clutch is starting to slip. Now, I am noticing that shifting is getting harder and quick shifting is becoming impossible. Also, downshifting from 3rd to 2nd in anything but slow motion results in gear grinding. Are these all symptoms of a bad clutch or am I looking at something more, er, expensive. 

Sure sounds like your clutch is worn out to me.  Don't forget to change out the throw out bearing while you've got the transmission off the car.

[Brazen17]

Thanks. Already knew the clutch was slipping just wanted to know if it was perhaps anything more serious than what a typical clutch, bearing and plate would fix. It's been many years since I had a manual vehicle. Many, many years...

[Carbon Sky]

Thanks. Already knew the clutch was slipping just wanted to know if it was perhaps anything more serious than what a typical clutch, bearing and plate would fix. It's been many years since I had a manual vehicle. Many, many years...

Just get to it sooner rather than later and you'll be fine.  Doesn't sound like there's anything else wrong other than a really worn clutch.  Out of curiosity, how many miles are on the clutch?

[Brazen17]

~67,500. Probably shouldn't have downshifted so much! Brakes being cheaper than clutches and what not. Problem didn't show up though until I added the Trifecta tune...

[Brazen17]

And to be honest I drive it pretty hard just about all the time. I am surprised I am not burning any oil and my cylinder compression pressures are still very good.

[Carbon Sky]

Yah, once you get up in the 350+ ft lbs torque at the crank, and the way our cars tend to make power best between 2200-5000 rpm, so you're in a higher gear at lower speeds, tends to be really hard on the clutch.

Sounds like you've got a nice safe tune from trifecta

[Critterman]

Change the oil in the tyranny while you have it out, it is a lot easier.  Do the diff at the same time and don't forget the psi additive

[Carbon Sky]

Just as an additional tip, not exactly sure what Critter is talking about in terms of psi additive, but it's often called a friction modifier.  Many appropriate gear lubes you will find already have a certain amount of friction modifier additive.  However, sometimes you need to add a little more to prevent "chatter" in your diff (when you're in a very tight slow turn say in a parking lot).

Whatever you get, I highly suggest you put a high quality synthetic into both the transmission and diff.

[Brazen17]

Change the oil in the tyranny while you have it out, it is a lot easier.  Do the diff at the same time and don't forget the psi additive

Just had both the trans and diff. fluid changed... What is the psi additive you allude to?

[Carbon Sky]

Just had both the trans and diff. fluid changed... What is the psi additive you allude to?

Like I said, I'm pretty sure he's talking about what most people call a friction modifier, but let's wait for him to come back on this one.  He might be talking about "shock" additives, but those are already added before it gets bottled, unlike friction modifier, which you add afterwards as different setups need varying amounts of it.  I use AMSOIL's Severe Gear 75w-90 in the diff, and they also sell a friction modifier additive called Slip Lock (which is a friction modifier) of which all LSD setups need at least some friction modifier.  There already are some of the same chemicals in the Severe Gear that are in the Slip Lock, but if you need more because you're getting chatter still, just put a little Slip Lock in.  I did this on a previous car to stop chatter.  On the Sky RL with the CTS rear diff, it's been just fine without adding the Slip Lock.  I used to get a little chatter on the stock fluid, none now with the AMSOIL SG without additional friction modifier.  But your mileage may vary depending on how worn the clutch packs are in your LSD.

[SolNut]

Change the oil in the tyranny while you have it out, it is a lot easier.  Do the diff at the same time and don't forget the psi additive

I believe he just left out the 'O'..........posi
AC Delco Limited Slip Axel Lubricant Additive #10-4003

[Brazen17]

So... Since I need a new clutch which one should I go with? 

I've already got quite used to this Trifecta tune and want more power so perhaps a stock clutch is not the way to go! Any ideas from you guys that have replaced your clutches with aftermarket stuff?

[Critterman]

DING....DING.....DING.......We have a winner.

Posi-traction additive.

[Brazen17]

DING....DING.....DING.......We have a winner.

Posi-traction additive.

Since you said psi, I was kind of hoping it was like a turbo for the transmission. 

[Carbon Sky]

So... Since I need a new clutch which one should I go with? 

I've already got quite used to this Trifecta tune and want more power so perhaps a stock clutch is not the way to go! Any ideas from you guys that have replaced your clutches with aftermarket stuff?

The only thing I can help with is some are for self-adjusting, some are not, as a result, some need a spacer, and some do not, or you'll get a very low or high (can't remember) pedal.  So just make sure you order the right application for what you want.  Good luck.

You planning on doing the job yourself?  Or having a shop do it?

[miller11386]

I would recommend not driving it much until you can swap the clutch out. If you have a worn out clutch, sometimes you will notice it harder to shift and grinding the synchros a bit. This is obviously to be expected, but if you do it for a prolonged period of time, you may be damaging your shifter forks/ synchros. And a clutch is pricy, but replacing the clutch then having to pull it back down to replace/rebuild the trans is not only more expensive, but it will really piss you off lol


Good luck with the swap. I would recommend taking it to DDM and letting the pros do it, but its a little far for you!

I would recommend the spec 3+ clutch if you plan to do many power mods past a simple tune.

[Brazen17]

Checking around for prices and it looks like a new trans from GM Parts Direct runs about $1400.00. Does this seem about right? My quote for a rebuild wasn't much less than this. Would buying a new trans be a simple (not simple as in easy) remove the old one and put in the new one swap? Is there something else that I am missing? I'd just as soon get a new one and swap it out than rebuild the old one which may have other issues besides the clutch/bearing/plate.

[Carbon Sky]

Checking around for prices and it looks like a new trans from GM Parts Direct runs about $1400.00. Does this seem about right? My quote for a rebuild wasn't much less than this. Would buying a new trans be a simple (not simple as in easy) remove the old one and put in the new one swap? Is there something else that I am missing? I'd just as soon get a new one and swap it out than rebuild the old one which may have other issues besides the clutch/bearing/plate.

Hmm, if the difference in price between a rebuild and new is about the same, I guess I'd go new.  Do both come with a similar warranty?  At least you know the GM one will be honored 100%.  A reputable shop as well, but you never know in this current economic climate . . . stores that can't make it just outta no where close shop.

I believe there have been at least 2 different threads about DIY transmission swaps.  I remember one of the hard parts was accessing one of the top bell housing bolts.  Apparently a number of long extensions on the end of the ratchet is the way to go.  Definitely replace the integrated slave cylinder and throw out bearing if you have the tranny off.

And a lot of time and patience . . .  I believe I remember something like 8 hours to get it off for someone doing it with jack stands the very first time.

Are you doing the work yourself?

[Brazen17]

I don't mind doing it myself. After working aircraft maintence (B-52's) for several years in the Air Force there isn't any screw or bolt that can evade me! Just wondered if I buy to new it is just a matter of pulling the old one and putting in the new one or is there more to it than that. I've never done this before so I don't know what is involved. If it is simply remove and replace then I can handle that no problem.

[Brazen17]

Anyone know, roughly, what the price should be for a typical rebuild of our trans (manual) with no other issues.

[Carbon Sky]

I don't mind doing it myself. After working aircraft maintence (B-52's) for several years in the Air Force there isn't any screw or bolt that can evade me! Just wondered if I buy to new it is just a matter of pulling the old one and putting in the new one or is there more to it than that. I've never done this before so I don't know what is involved. If it is simply remove and replace then I can handle that no problem.

Anyone know, roughly, what the price should be for a typical rebuild of our trans (manual) with no other issues.

Awesome to hear!   Yah, you should be fine.  Good luck with it all.

From what I've seen they are typically at least $1000 at reputable places, and even more for auto trannies.  But I believe that $1000-1500 price also includes getting the tranny on and off.

[Critterman]

It takes an assortment of various sized extensions, and knuckle joints to get at the bolts by the starter.  Just don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start as you might be in for a shocking suprise if you don't.

Remember transmissions come with different ratios and mounting configurations depending on the year and whether or not you have the torque bar.  Make sure you get the right one.

[Brazen17]

Thanks guys.

It seems like with the price of a new trans being not that much higher than a clutch R&R why not just replace the trans with a new one under warranty? I know this probably doesn't hold true with all trans. in all cars but with ours the price is comparable...

[Brazen17]

I can also take the car up to the Nellis AFB auto/hobby shop and use one of their lifts which should make this a fairly easy task.