Topic: Hey Tranny Guys!

[Critterman]

make that easier, not fairly easy

[Brazen17]

make that easier, not fairly easy

Killjoy. 

[2kwk4u]

Just to be sure... you know a new trans won't come with a new clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing, right?  So if your clutch is slipping, and you think you need a new trans as well, you're looking at buying BOTH.  It's not like buying the clutch is halfway to buying a new trans, because the clutch assembly is not integral to the trans.

Finally, I suspect the failure all along might have been your pressure plate or throwout bearing assembly.  It seems if it was just a worn out clutch disc, there wouldn't be problems disengaging the clutch (causing hard shifts and synchro issues).

All of this, of course is only my $.02

[Brazen17]

Just to be sure... you know a new trans won't come with a new clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing, right?  So if your clutch is slipping, and you think you need a new trans as well, you're looking at buying BOTH.  It's not like buying the clutch is halfway to buying a new trans, because the clutch assembly is not integral to the trans.

Finally, I suspect the failure all along might have been your pressure plate or throwout bearing assembly.  It seems if it was just a worn out clutch disc, there wouldn't be problems disengaging the clutch (causing hard shifts and synchro issues).

All of this, of course is only my $.02

I did not know that. It would make sense otherwise why not just buy a new trans for a little more instead of opting for a rebuild. Thanks for the info.

It does slip in 4th without a doubt and sometimes in 3rd. Quick shifting from 1st to 2nd almost always has some grinding and down shifting from 4th to 3rd can also be a problem.

[elff]

Just a weird addition
My trans in my Truck failed last year.
I had 2 Options
Rebuild, Replace
A New Replacement trans was $500 cheaper but only had a 3 Month warranty

Rebuilding the existing transmission was $500 more but came with a 5 year 100,000 mile warranty.
I went with the rebuild which was actually a core swap for a rebuilt unit.  They in turn will fix mine and it will go into someone else's vehicle.

I was quite shocked that a new one had less of a warranty.  Not sure if that applies with our kappa's but figured I would share.

[Brazen17]

Just a weird addition
My trans in my Truck failed last year.
I had 2 Options
Rebuild, Replace
A New Replacement trans was $500 cheaper but only had a 3 Month warranty

Rebuilding the existing transmission was $500 more but came with a 5 year 100,000 mile warranty.
I went with the rebuild which was actually a core swap for a rebuilt unit.  They in turn will fix mine and it will go into someone else's vehicle.

I was quite shocked that a new one had less of a warranty.  Not sure if that applies with our kappa's but figured I would share.

Only three months? That is strange. 

If I get the Spec 3 clutch kit would I need to get anthing else to complete the rebuild? New Flywheel? Clutch slave cylinder spacer?

[Carbon Sky]

I would get spec to answer your spacer question.  In my opinion, I'd go with a new flywheel just because from the sound of it, there's been slipping already, which means you probably have some "glazing" which would make me want to resurface the flywheel, and most manufacturers recommend against it, as would I.  So it's up to you whether you want to go with a stock one, or a light weight one.  The stock one, being heavier should reduce odds of getting clutch chatter when you're pulling away from a dead stop for example.  While a stiffer pressure clutch with a lighter flywheel will likely make it chatter everytime you're pulling away at a reasonable pace from a dead stop.  Most people that have it don't mind, but I've had it before, and it makes the car feel kinda "cheap".  But that's just my opinion, no objective better or worse or anything except for maybe arguably more stress on the drive train.

[elff]

Only three months? That is strange. 

If I get the Spec 3 clutch kit would I need to get anthing else to complete the rebuild? New Flywheel? Clutch slave cylinder spacer?

IMHO, I'd recommend a new flywheel just to ensure it matches up properly with the spec clutch. 
Also
It's always recommended to get a new Slave Cylinder because it's not worth taking the chance on using the old one as you have to completely remove the transmission to get to the slave if it fails. 
In my install, the spec spacer would not allow us to bolt the bell housing up to the engine.  After some measurements, Critterman realized that the remaining distance to get everything bolted was the exact height of the spacer. 
Dillon removed the spacer from under the slave and then everything slide together without issue and was bolted together.

[Critterman]

At least have the flywheel turned if not replaced.  And if you get a new one have them do a 'diamond cut' on it

[Brazen17]

IMHO, I'd recommend a new flywheel just to ensure it matches up properly with the spec clutch. 
Also
It's always recommended to get a new Slave Cylinder because it's not worth taking the chance on using the old one as you have to completely remove the transmission to get to the slave if it fails. 
In my install, the spec spacer would not allow us to bolt the bell housing up to the engine.  After some measurements, Critterman realized that the remaining distance to get everything bolted was the exact height of the spacer. 
Dillon removed the spacer from under the slave and then everything slide together without issue and was bolted together.

Is your clutch travel/engagement points about the same as with the stock setup? I have seen where some people have to press the pedal all the way to the firewall and that would seem kind of annoying.

[Brazen17]

Resurfacing the flywheel was included in the estimate I got. Just wonder if lighter might be better. I don't know for sure what clutch chatter is but I have seen people write about it before. Is it something you hear or feel or both?

[elff]

Is your clutch travel/engagement points about the same as with the stock setup? I have seen where some people have to press the pedal all the way to the firewall and that would seem kind of annoying.

My Catch Point is very low, but I have not had a chance to properly break it in yet. 
IMHO, On a stronger clutch, it's much easier to use it smoothly when the catch point is lower as you push the clutch down and then can use just your ankle to let it go through the catch point
vs
Having to use the strength of your quad muscle when the catch point is near the top.

I had the latter and did not like it.

[old goat]

I am doing my clutch tomorrow, I was told the GXP flywheel cannot be resurfaced. I got the Spec flywheel, I did not want one leg bigger than the other so I got a Stage 2 without SAC and a spacer from Werks. I also got the slave. I have read that you should scratch up the surface of the flywheel and clutch with a scotch brite pad. After the clutch is installed go out and do stop and go at low rpm's about 40 to 50 of them then park the car and let it cool completely. Drive moderately for 500 miles. This advice was from someone on his 4th Spec clutch, he races. Do not forget the flywheel bolts are one time use, get new ones about $4 each you need 8.

[Brazen17]

Thanks for the heads up on the flywheel and bolts. How many miles on yours? I was looking at the 3 or 3+ but that seems like overkill. Now I need to decide between the 2 or 2+.

[rlhammon]

Thanks for the heads up on the flywheel and bolts. How many miles on yours? I was looking at the 3 or 3+ but that seems like overkill. Now I need to decide between the 2 or 2+.

There are a few of us with various tunes who have all gone with the Spec 3+.  I've had mine for close to 20,000 miles I'd guess at this point and I would have loved it from the start.  No spacer, and yes... the pedal engages almost at the floor.  As mentioned here, that was easier for me especially since this clutch takes a little more effort than stock.

I also have the Spec lightweight (only version they have) flywheel.  You'll notice the engine will spool up quicker with this, and if you like to drive it hard... well, you'll like this over the stock flywheel.  The *only* issue I've had with chatter is at 55-60 MPH in 5th gear.  I just make sure I'm over 60 before shifting to 5th.  You can hear and feel the "chatter", no doubt about it.  I've had *zero* issues with chatter on my setup outside of this one spot.  No problems pulling away from a stop sign, stop light, or drag light even.

As mentioned, replace the slave & throwout bearings.  The flywheel bolts are one time use, and they are torque to yield bolts.  Very important that you have the proper torque on these, and established correctly.  Do not just stop at the correct torque, and don't "guesstimate" the angle you have turned after establishing the torque.  This is not hard to do... there are tools for it, ask around at the shop on base, I'm sure you'll find one.

Have fun with the bolt behind the starter!

There's a few threads on here about replacing the clutch, read up on them... everyone has had some issue, so understand what those issues are and you'll be saving hours of time.

[Brazen17]

Thanks rlhammon!

[Brazen17]

Seems my car has learned a new trick! I have limited my driving in the GXP but used it tonight to drive my daughter to class tonight and the first time I shifted to third it popped right back out as I applied throttle. Continued to do so most every time I tried third gear so I just skipped it the rest of the night with a 2-4 shift. Does this mean I have more than a clutch problem?

[Gentleman Jack]

Yeah, it means your daughter should get her own car and drive herself from now on so you don't keep breaking your clutch!!!!

[Brazen17]

Now why didn't I think of that!

[Critterman]

syncro?

[Brazen17]

That was what I was thinking but I really don't know enough about transmissions to be sure. I am beginning to wonder if I might need a new trans... Does the syncro have anything to do with a worn out clutch? If not then perhaps it will be covered under warranty. Of course I added the Trifecta tune so warranty could be an issue. On the other hand it started acting up the very same day I installed the tune so I don't really see how that could have done anything more than reveal a problem that was already in play.

New question. I am considering a V8 swap in the future (if I keep the car) and was wondering if you can bolt the (T-56 trans?) to the 4 banger for now and add the V8 later?

[Sol Asylum]

The syncro hubs have a detent that is supposed to keep things in the selected gear.  I wonder if the clutch issue is causing the syncro to not allow the hub to slide fully into position, so yes it could still be the clutch.  With the engine off how smooth does it shift into and out of third gear, compare that to one of the other gears (not fourth).  Third and fourth gear use the same syncro hub so if it was a hub problem you would expect it to be the same between the two gears.

[Brazen17]

SA - I ran it through the gears both with the clutch engaged and also without the clutch and they all felt about the same except reverse. I had no trouble with 4th last night. Popped out of third just about everytime I tried it.