Author Topic: Parking brake loose (Read 7563 times)

Gadget · « **on:** April 20, 2013, 10:36:45 PM »

My parking brake is loose. I've read a lot of posts about it and decided to lift off the center console and have a looksee..
After removing it, I noticed some scuffing on the plastic under side where the previous owner had already tightened it down so much that the bolt had extended enough to rub the console when it was installed. I also noticed a rather large fender washer between the end of the bolt and the bracket.
Does it come from the factory with a fender washer there or was this a "mod" done by the previous owner?

Also, should I cut a 1/4 inch or so off the back of the bolt so it stops rubbing the underside of the console? Or am I gonna regret that at a later date?

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #1 on:** April 20, 2013, 10:55:34 PM »

I think you need to look into things at the other end of that cable first.

Gadget · « **Reply #2 on:** April 21, 2013, 12:05:27 AM »

Rear brake pads are fine if that's what you mean?

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #3 on:** April 21, 2013, 01:56:46 AM »

I'm with SA. There shouldn't be a need to cut anything.

Something's fishy.

Can you post a pic?

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #4 on:** April 21, 2013, 08:02:59 AM »

Previous owner didn't adjust it properly, known issue.

Fix: Adjust it until the slack is in the cable. Take of the rear left wheel and caliper, use a pair of needle nose and twist the piston while pushing until it's seated and reinstall brake pads and caliper. Tap brakes until hard and then adjust cable until slack is gone.

If the cable hadn't been previously adjusted, you wouldn't need to mess with that step. We have 3 solstice here and had to do that too all of them. In fact, I just Dee's last week.

Gadget · « **Reply #5 on:** April 21, 2013, 12:27:29 PM »

Here it rubs the bolt on it's skin:
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Gadget · « **Reply #6 on:** April 21, 2013, 12:29:01 PM »

Here is a pic with the fender washer:
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Gadget · « **Reply #7 on:** April 21, 2013, 12:33:26 PM »

Hey Deep, thanks for the step by step. It made a difference for sure but not enough.
Would doing the other rear caliper make sense?
Also, I could be paranoid but the car seems to "nose down" on heavy braking now. That was just on a cruise around the block. Do I need to let it settle in?

Thanks again all for the help....

Gadget · « **Reply #8 on:** April 21, 2013, 01:10:09 PM »

I did the other one just to be safe.
So does it need to settle in?
The p-brake seems to lock in at 6 clicks, before it was at least double that.

PS> do I get points for best alternative use of an unused holiday ornament?

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Sol Asylum · « **Reply #9 on:** April 21, 2013, 08:29:20 PM »

Negative points for not rotating the picture right side up prior to posting.

Gadget · « **Reply #10 on:** April 22, 2013, 12:42:33 AM »

Not sure if I can rotate pictures when posting directly from my phone.
However this is one picture that works both ways

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #11 on:** April 22, 2013, 05:45:04 AM »

fender washer is not supposed to be there

crisco · « **Reply #12 on:** April 22, 2013, 06:28:02 AM »

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on April 21, 2013, 08:02:59 AM

Fix: Adjust it until the slack is in the cable. Take of the rear left wheel and caliper, use a pair of needle nose and twist the piston while pushing until it's seated and reinstall brake pads and caliper. Tap brakes until hard and then adjust cable until slack is gone.

DeepBlue,
Please explain for the needlenose pliers twist to the caliper piston. I haven't taken my brake caliper off and I want to adjust my emergency brake also. I haven't done the adjustment at the brake handle yet either. I just want to be clear on what I was going to do to the caliper.

I mean what would twisting it also help? Just want to be clear on what I am going to do.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #13 on:** April 22, 2013, 08:52:22 AM »

Quote from: crisco on April 22, 2013, 06:28:02 AM

DeepBlue,
Please explain for the needlenose pliers twist to the caliper piston. I haven't taken my brake caliper off and I want to adjust my emergency brake also. I haven't done the adjustment at the brake handle yet either. I just want to be clear on what I was going to do to the caliper. I mean what would twisting it also help? Just want to be clear on what I am going to do.

Changing my 'color' from Orange to Blue for a moment...

See the article here: http://classicbroncos.com/reardiscs.shtml to understand how the rear calipers work and why we need to do this. Then to answer your question, the pistons need to be screwed in. On each piston face there are two divots (holes) where you can place the two tips of a pair of needle-nose pliers. This is what gives you the leverage to turn the piston and so screw it in. Note: you should do BOTH sides - either could be seized.

crisco · « **Reply #14 on:** April 22, 2013, 09:20:38 AM »

Thank you Tomato!

You the MAN!

Never fail to impress! I just want to be sure of what to do. Thanks again!

Critterman · « **Reply #15 on:** April 22, 2013, 10:10:06 AM »

Or you can buy a handy dandy tool made just for turning the rear calipers in. Looks like a cube and each side has two pins. Each side fits a diferent make.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #16 on:** April 22, 2013, 11:40:12 AM »

Quote from: Critterman on April 22, 2013, 10:10:06 AM

Or you can buy a handy dandy tool made just for turning the rear calipers in. Looks like a cube and each side has two pins. Each side fits a diferent make.

At least for the one I had, the square tool has no side that fits properly (at least without 'Dremel' modification). I used the Harbor Freight kit tool for mine, but even that was marginal (one plate worked but not really correct fit).

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #17 on:** April 22, 2013, 08:37:54 PM »

I had to modify my tool to fit also.

Gadget · « **Reply #18 on:** April 22, 2013, 10:55:59 PM »

Hey guys, drive the car to work today and all I can say is wow, I mean WOW! What a massive difference! I was only able to turn the pistons maybe a full 360 turns before they stopped so I didn't hold out a whole lotta hope, and following your instructions pumped the hell out of the brakes (they did have a "kinda" ratcheting sound at the end of the stroke for the first 15 or so pumps) but holy cow, what a difference in braking performance! I was seriously considering upgrading the brake system before but not now. No fade, very firm pedal action, this is exactly what I expect from a car that "goes" like this.
Thank you thank you thank you!

Wow if you are like me and bought a used Solstice and aren't happy with your brakes, give this a shot. 1/2 hour all in and 0 cost! Love it!

PS> notice I refrained from commenting on the above "modified tool" post. Thats how awesome you guys are! (I almost never walk away from a setup like that : )

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #19 on:** April 22, 2013, 11:14:13 PM »

-10 points for walking away from a setup like that.

Gadget · « **Reply #20 on:** April 23, 2013, 12:00:46 AM »

Ah, too stoked to care

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #21 on:** April 23, 2013, 12:19:29 AM »

I once had a modified tool get stoked by a friend of mine. She had never seen anything like it before.

Gadget · « **Reply #22 on:** April 23, 2013, 10:08:39 AM »

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #23 on:** April 23, 2013, 11:07:19 AM »

All you have to do Gadget:

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on April 22, 2013, 08:37:54 PM

I had to modify my tool to fit also.

As long as Dee is happy that's all that matters.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #24 on:** April 23, 2013, 12:03:11 PM »

Quote from: Sol Asylum on April 23, 2013, 11:07:19 AM

All you have to do Gadget:

As long as Dee is happy that's all that matters.

Well played sir

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Author Topic: Parking brake loose (Read 7563 times)