Kappa Performance Forum
Kappa Specific => Racing => Topic started by: kennysabarese on November 27, 2009, 07:08:27 PM
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Hey ya'll. So there was a small discussion on shift lights a few days ago, and I really want to get something soon so I'm curious of the groups opinions on the matter.
What I'd most like to clone is the logic behind F1 style steering wheel lights, which during DEcelleration, go from redline to orange to green and when they turn off indicates that it is safe to downshift.
The easiest setup is probably this 7 LED sequential unit:
http://store.traqmate.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=48 (http://store.traqmate.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=48)
(video of the different modes, and in action here)
http://www.scoobymods.com/ecliptech_shift_sequential_shift-t8526.html (http://www.scoobymods.com/ecliptech_shift_sequential_shift-t8526.html)
I was thinking of doing this with either one or two solid lights, such as a drag racing light like this Raptor:
http://www.raptorperformance.com/products/Dual%20Mode%20Shift%20Light.htm (http://www.raptorperformance.com/products/Dual%20Mode%20Shift%20Light.htm)
There is also a pretty cool one here, but I think it's too long to properly mount anywhere on the Sky
http://lumitach.com/ (http://lumitach.com/)
Ideas? Discuss amongst yourself
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I've decided to update the first post of this thread with the install info so they don't get lost at the end of this talky thread.
The one I (and a few others) choose is the Ecliptech Shift-I. It combines a customized tach and shift light.
Install will be easy for everyone after seeing this guide. It was a real huge pain in the ass for me. Because I had a fight with a gasket.
First I wired up my power and ground. I already have a fuse tap on fuse 18 for my iPhone, and Valentine 1. Just tapped that and ran the wires behind the radio and hooked that up. I don't have photos, I forgot to take them.
The hard part of the install is the cylinder tap. I choose to tap cylinder 4 so there is less wire in the engine compartment. It's tough to do this one because there isn't much exposed wire. But I was able to make it fit.
The wire to tap is the wire that is different on each cylinder. For cylinder 4 it is the green wire. Take the connector off and cut away the tape. I found the included wire taps to be pretty cool because I could easily do one the cylinder wire side first, and the new wire second so I didn't have to try to keep as many wires steady with my hands. (This is the first time I've ever used wire taps in my life, so I was very nervous that I would break something)
Once I got that tapped I made sure the car started, and I had misfires... I freaked out, then realized I forgot to connect the wires back to the coil. WHEW Once I did everything was fine.
Uranium suggested that the best way to get into the cabin through the firewall is to go through the gasket that the main ECU wires go through. It is definitely the easiest way once you learn how the gasket works. This took me an hour and a big scare. Originally I didn't realize that there were two layers of rubber I had to get through. So I poked a hole, taped the wires to a hangar, and started pushing through. Everything seemed fine then it started to get tough to push. I look under the dash and saw frayed wire! I thought I has cut the ECU wires! Again panic! Then I realized that that the boot actually funnels flush with the wiring harness and I had actually been pushing the new wire through tape holding the ECU harness together and the frayed wire was just the new wire. Pulled it out. Started the car. WHEW #2 everything was fine.
So I decided to pull out the entire gasket, and saw how it was made. Poked holes on each side and used this awesome plier technique to feed it through without the hanger. Once it was through, just popped the gasket back and used a screwdriver to push it into place.
Connected all the wires to the shift light, jammed then under the dash and bam it worked!
I wrapped the tap up with electrical tape, hopefully nothing melts. U has suggested aluminum tape. Gotta get around to getting some.
I haven't decided on the final mounting point so I just jammed it between the steering wheel.
Gotta also learn how to calibrate it. Right now I just have one light going on for every 1k RPM. But I'm going to plan on having the lights start at 4k RPM and blink just before redline.
Pic uploading is having some problems today so here is a gallery for now:
http://gallery.me.com/kennysabarese#100364 (http://gallery.me.com/kennysabarese#100364)
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Isn't dashhawk have this feature?
Or GTech?
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gtech has a tach with lights and other logging that i can do with hptuners... and costs a lot more than this shift light
i think it's overkill. unless i'm missing something
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Kenny, I was thinking about the curved sequential setup. Might be tall enough to place in the recessed area of the gauge cluster cover. If you could make it work that would be the cleanest looking install, I think.
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do you mean in between the tach and speedo? or attach the top of the light to the bottom of the cover which would cover the gas guage?
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No, I mean like were JPM has the alcantara in this pic:
(http://www.jpmcoachworks.com/catalog/images/shroud2.jpg)
Not sure if the tach is tall enough, but I think that may still hold the most potential.
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oh yeah. on top. yeah as close as to the window the better. i could always make some little mount to raise it up as well.
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I've been watching this thread with interest as a "shift light" is certainly something that can come in handy in some spots on Solo courses. There is just no time to look at the tach. If one goes to the manufacturers site, there is a printable template that can come in handy. Mine printed out a bit smaller than true scale (about 13%). The curved unit appears to be ~4" across. Too big to fit IN one of the nacelles, but on top of the cover could be very good. This might help -- http://www.ecliptech.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=59&Itemid=109%29 . It's an Australian company, so our weak dollar may be the reason the price has gone up so much over the past 1-2 years. I have found one other programmable sequential shift light, but the import can not assure me how to properly capture an input signal and says a signal adapter (such as an Autometer unit) may be needed, so even though it is $80 I have passed on it. It seems that the shift-i is very flexible when it comes to installation, so a call to a reseller on Monday will be a must.
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I have my Dash Hawk setup to change colors at specific RPMs, I use this to catch my eye when drag racing so I don't have to take my eyes off the track
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I have my Dash Hawk setup to change colors at specific RPMs, I use this to catch my eye when drag racing so I don't have to take my eyes off the track
Very cool. It gets the RPM from OBD I assume?
Also do you know where you can pickup an RPM wire in the car to hookup a standard shift light?
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It seems that the shift-i is very flexible when it comes to installation, so a call to a reseller on Monday will be a must.
a local race shop has this thing. i think i'll buy it since I am going there today anyway. if you find a great price, i will return it.
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Kenny, I think I mentioned something along those lines in my post above. Since we have a COP ignition, a shift light signal varies with each unit. Some tap in to ALDL lines, some to coil leads, etc. Some even require an additional piece of hardware to generate a signal that is needed. So far, when I have asked vendors, the answer usually sounds like "well, we aren't 100% sure about YOUR application so you'll just have to try it". Problem is, "just trying it" could damage the unit, or worse yet maybe the ECU !!!!
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a local race shop has this thing. i think i'll buy it since I am going there today anyway. if you find a great price, i will return it.
Seems like everybody is at a $169 price point. It is pretty easy to pop the top off the instrument pack and fish wires through the dashboard. If you plan on taking a signal from the low side of a coil, just make REAL sure that the wire can never chafe on ANYTHING or a long walk will be yours some day !!! :f: :goat: :censor: :cryin:
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Oh this mounting option might work in our cars
There is no RPM wire anywhere else in the car?
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Kenny, I think I mentioned something along those lines in my post above. Since we have a COP ignition, a shift light signal varies with each unit. Some tap in to ALDL lines, some to coil leads, etc. Some even require an additional piece of hardware to generate a signal that is needed. So far, when I have asked vendors, the answer usually sounds like "well, we aren't 100% sure about YOUR application so you'll just have to try it". Problem is, "just trying it" could damage the unit, or worse yet maybe the ECU !!!!
Yeah i dunno what half of that stuff means.
Only 3 wires to connect! Ground, Ignition and Tacho.
This is what their installation guide says.
The tacho input is quite flexible and can be connected to either...
5 or 12V digital tacho signals (ECU to instrument)
Electronic ignition outputs (ECU to coil, including wasted spark systems and coil on plug systems)
Fuel injector outputs (ECU to fuel injector)
Full guide is here:
http://www.ecliptech.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67&Itemid=69 (http://www.ecliptech.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67&Itemid=69)
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Sorry.
ALDL = Assembly Line Data Link which what the data plug next to the steering column is all about.
COP = Coil Over Plug.
The idea of connecting to the low voltage lead at a coil seems best as there is no doubt about what is being read.
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So I just bought the Shift I at the local raceshop. I'll play with positions and take some pics.
Anyone know the math to figure out the safe RPM for downshifting? It's tough to watch while driving.
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I can get on that, using my favorite testbed: Forza 3!
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HAHA!
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OK, working off the theory that whatever your RPM drops to when you shift at redline is the safe place to downshift, 3,750 RPM is safe across all gears.
*****DISCLAIMER*****
This has not been mathematically proved, nor real world tested-yet. I'll check the lower gears myself, I'm not running 4th or 5th to redline, thanks.
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4th to redline is tough to do on the street but i've done it (I WISH)
5th I don't think it's possible.
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OK, the street test shows that 4k would be safe. Apparently Forza 3 assumes everyone don't know how to shift fast...
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:) sweet thanks man. the most important one for me is 4th to 3rd. i might upgrade my valve springs just to protect myself from making a mistake :)
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Well, 2nd to 1st is the biggest jump. If you wanted to, you could fine-tune the lights for 2nd, 3rd and 4th, and that would be at a point higher than 4k.
I know in my case, I'd get so used to the lights that if I did that sooner or later I'd downshift into 1st early. So, 4k it will be for me. That's pretty well into the powerband anyway.
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I've never downshifted into first while moving more than 5mph. Not to worried about that :)
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There is about 1k between all gears except 4thnd 5th, that is about 500 rpm
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There is about 1k between all gears except 4thnd 5th, that is about 500 rpm
Huh?
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Are you seeing something different Bob?
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Are you seeing something different Bob?
"There is about 1k between all gears except 4thnd 5th, that is about 500 rpm"
At what rpm's and road speeds?
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So, they're not linear? I thought they were, if time shifting isn't considered. For my test, I shifted as fast as I could, and noted what the RPM jumped down to when I let out the clutch.
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I just read this thread at the BB and I don't understand a lick of the info there. This is for a 2.4, but I assume it would be the same for our LNF.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f48/rpm-pickup-point-46532/ (http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f48/rpm-pickup-point-46532/)
This particular post says you can pick it up off a wire on the ECU
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f48/rpm-pickup-point-46532/#post701825 (http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f48/rpm-pickup-point-46532/#post701825)
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Ok found this too. Here is one is made by the same people who make a unit that Bob was mentioning in another thread.
http://www.striracing-usa.com/pro_s.htm (http://www.striracing-usa.com/pro_s.htm)
It works using the cig lighter according to this old thread.
http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f44/cs-stri-shift-light-indicator-10874/ (http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f44/cs-stri-shift-light-indicator-10874/)
"It picks up the RPM signal from the 12v current going to the cig lighter adaptor. I have personally tested it and it works great. First you plug the unit in, put the car in nuetral, rev to whatever rpm you want the shift light to go on, adjust the knob so that the light turns on and youre set to go"
Wonder if that works with the one I just bought.
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Hopefully this will help. The info on the BB really was more about doing data acquisition, not hooking up a tach light.
Wiring =
Only 3 wires to connect! Ground, Ignition and Tacho.
The tacho input is quite flexible and can be connected to either...
* 5 or 12V digital tacho signals (ECU to instrument)
* Electronic ignition outputs (ECU to coil, including wasted spark systems and coil on plug systems)
* Fuel injector outputs (ECU to fuel injector)
* Low voltage side to coils as indicated below...
[attachment=1]
Our options seem to be either the first or fourth image. I would think that capturing the tach signal BEFORE it gets to the ecu would be more "real time" and not require tapping into ECU or BCM. Image one shows taking the data from the ECU. The best way is to tap in to the wire coming off the appropriate module, and going directly to the computers make my hair itch. The other way is image 4 which is the low voltage signal from the ECU to the coil, and that can be done at the coil signal lead on any one of the four coils. Tapping into our F.I. lead may not work as I think our injectors multi fire, but not sure on that one.
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I just wanna know which wire it is!
J1 - 45 & J1-46 on the ECU J1 is from the other thread. Can anyone confirm?
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I just wanna know which wire it is!
J1 - 45 & J1-46 on the ECU J1 is from the other thread. Can anyone confirm?
J1-45 is a gray wire and is labeled "5V REF 3".
J1-46 is a tan wire and is labeled "LOW REF".
I believe these are feeds TO the crank position sensor which is located on the left rear corner of the block above the the starter.
J1- 35 is a yellow wire and is labeled "CKP SENS SIG".
This one should be the actual position sensor signal TO the ECU.
The crank position sensor has three wires at the plug of the sensor.
Looking at the entire thread, the guy who posted the pin out also corrected himself towards the end for a 2.4 set up. The important thing is that he said he was "assuming". Additionally, he read the wiring diagram incorrectly for the 2.4. Honestly, I am not trying to be a smart ass or appear to be a know-it-all, but the poster on the BB may be a bit off on his info. I am looking at factory wiring diagrams on line at Mitchell. He was correct on the LNF voltage signals TO the sensor, but had not provided the signal path BACK to the ECU. Ecliptech does not show an option for picking up the crank sensor to fire the shift light. Just trying to help.
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I'm nervous to be the first one to try since I know the least about this stuff. Don't like cutting wires :(
I googled around and some people tap it off the wires that feed the tach gauge on the dash. Maybe this is an option for us?
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I'm nervous to be the first one to try since I know the least about this stuff. Don't like cutting wires :(
I googled around and some people tap it off the wires that feed the tach gauge on the dash. Maybe this is an option for us?
Our data system is what is called a CAN BUS. This is an information transfer system that multiplexes data as opposed to one signal on one wire. This is from a tutorial page - "The CAN bus (Controller Area Networking) was defined in the late 1980 by Bosch, initially for use in automotive applications." I am not sure if tapping into a tach signal will work. On the Mitchell site it shows a multiplexed signal from the ECU to the gauge cluster. The signal going to a single coil pack is starting to bother me as well as we may have a multi fire ignition system that fires the plug more than once during the combustion phase.
Tell you what. How about if I contact the vendor in Australia and ask them? If you can wait, I'll try to gather up some more info. It will help BOTH of us, because this is something I want to do on my car as well.
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I just did a quick search on www.the12volt.com
It looks like in the alarm/remote install world they tap the signal side of an injector for tach signal:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~98450 (http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~98450)
It says use the wire *opposite* the pink with a black trace. Without looking I'd say each injector has two wires, one pink/black, and one that is another color or color combo, depending on which injector it is.
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Tell you what. How about if I contact the vendor in Australia and ask them? If you can wait, I'll try to gather up some more info. It will help BOTH of us, because this is something I want to do on my car as well.
I am in no rush. I just know less about car electronics than I do about turning wrenches.
Let me know what you find out :)
while typing this I was just thinking about the Cobalt and how they use them for drag racing. I found a guy on that forum called msfitoy. His sig says he has one. But I can't find anything. I just PM'd him so let's see if he writes back.
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Ok got an answer from him already
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4487008&postcount=3 (http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4487008&postcount=3)
"it turns out that none of the wires running to the cluster was suitable for tach signal...you need to tap off any one of the coil...I can't recall which color, but there's three wires going to each...use the one that is common color at all four plugs...hope that helps..."
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I just looked. Each cylinder has black brown and pink. then the two other sensors going into the valve cover have pink as well as the the intake tube also has pink.
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Well I'm just going to sit back and let you all figure this all out. Payday is Friday, so hopefully I'll have some answers by then.
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Ok got an answer from him already
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4487008&postcount=3 (http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4487008&postcount=3)
"it turns out that none of the wires running to the cluster was suitable for tach signal...you need to tap off any one of the coil...I can't recall which color, but there's three wires going to each...use the one that is common color at all four plugs...hope that helps..."
Not sure what he is referring to.
There are two color wires common to all four wires; one is black (ground) and the other is pink/black which goes to Fuse 45 (15 amp).
Next, there are brown wires common to #1 & 3, and brown/white common to #2 & 4. The brown goes to pin 78 on the ecu which is "LOW REF", and the brn/wht goes to pin 13 which is another "LOW REF".
The remaining unique colored wires to each coil are the IC (ignition coil) signal from the ecu. One of THESE should be the tach signal that is needed.
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Bob,
My car if fairly consistent between gears 1k between first and second, 1.5k between second and third, and 1k between third and fourth, 500 rpm between forth and fifth. but I have the Colorado truck tranny. So if I am doing 70 in 5th about 2800 rpm, and want to pick up a smoth 3rd, I need to rev match to 4300 rpm to pick up a smooth 3rd gear.
Do you see something different?
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it must be the pink/black. i wish there was a way to test before cutting into the wire though
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it must be the pink/black. i wish there was a way to test before cutting into the wire though
The pink black is not a signal line, it is voltage from the fuse panel. So, question - are we talking about a power source to the light assembly, or a tach signal to trigger the lights?
Here is the wiring diagram in MS Word. [attachment=1]
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sorry i misread your post!
ok then yeah i think i know the wire.
wish there was a way to test without tapping it
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BTW wiring diagram is excellent :) I have a 2007 but I'm sure it's the same
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Here it is for everyone as a PDF if they prefer
http://files.me.com/kennysabarese/1c3sfd (http://files.me.com/kennysabarese/1c3sfd)
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Here it is for everyone as a PDF if they prefer
http://files.me.com/kennysabarese/1c3sfd (http://files.me.com/kennysabarese/1c3sfd)
Show off !!!!!!!!!! :lol: :rofl: JK.
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haha ;)
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it must be the pink/black. i wish there was a way to test before cutting into the wire though
Kenny Get the saddle connectors that go around the wire with the push on connector pin (no need to CUT the WIRE )
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Ok. I think the ones it came with are good. I don't think they cut.
What's the best way to get from around the dash into the engine compartment.
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Big drill with a big bit :)
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The main wiring harness comes in under the dash, that's where DDM routed my boost gauge stuff.
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If I can tap off the interior that would be ideal, but Bob doesn't seem to think that is possible.
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I meant that there's already a place you can run more wires through the firewall, no need to cut a new hole.
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Oh. Ok I'll take a look. I'm sure someone has a guide on the forums
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I meant that there's already a place you can run more wires through the firewall, no need to cut a new hole.
238, did they route the boost leads along side of the harness (I tried that and failed) or within the bundle (didn't think of that).
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Along side, I believe. It's an analog gauge, so it's just a small plastic tube.
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I believe Phil is talking about the access hole on the right hand side of the firewall. If you look at the firewall behind and above the battery you will see some silver tape. Pull that loose and you should have an access hole. Don't forget to replace the tape when you are done.
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No, I'm talking about where the main wiring harness comes through the firewall underneath the dash on the driver's side.
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Along side, I believe. It's an analog gauge, so it's just a small plastic tube.
I tried that - no luck. So I routed it elsewhere.
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OK, cracked the hood and took a look. The cut a small hole in the rubber grommet and routed the line through that.
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So you guys figured out how to hook these up yet? :D
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I just have to go try it. I can't really do stuff after work anymore. So maybe I'll try Saturday or Sunday.
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I've been thinking about it, and I think I'm going to buy the 7-light one like you did. Two lights is more expensive, and gives you less information. Only issue is my car may be going back into the shop...
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You'll prolly have it working before me lol
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Dunno, depends on how long I might be without my car/how fast their shipping is.
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Ordered the Shift-I Flat today. Can't wait ti get it in and installed.
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Sweet! It's too damn cold out I haven't touched my car in a while... let me know how it turns out :)
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Did you guys ever figure out which wire to tap into?
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238, I think I detailed some of that earlier in the thread. I do plan on ordering one, but right now I am tiling a hallway and the kitchen. Spent the last two days (way LONG ones) at the Kansas City free health clinic as a volunteer. So, shift lights are going to have to wait a bit. If I need to get the microscope out again to look at the schematics I will be glad to do that. That said, I really do thing that picking up the signal at the coil pack is the way to go.
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Got my shift light in yesterday. Going to take a look under the hood tonight and see if I can figure out how to hook this thing up.
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Awesome! Let us know.
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Finally managed to take a quick look under the hood. 4 coils, 4 wires running to each plug. Of those four, 3 of the colors are common across all 4 cylinders. The remaining wire is a different color on all cylinders. Any guesses as to what these all are four? What I wouldn't give for a wiring diagram of these coils...
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It's right in this thread buddy.
http://files.me.com/kennysabarese/1c3sfd (http://files.me.com/kennysabarese/1c3sfd)
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I hate EFI, distributor-less ignitions, and all these other modern doo-hickeys, they make working on the car so complicated.
Kenny, that diagram helps, but without knowing where all those wires run to it's only so useful. I'm thinking pin 4 is correct wire, but I have no way of knowing without more info. I really wish I had a DMM that reads in hertz...
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from Bob:
Not sure what he is referring to.
There are two color wires common to all four wires; one is black (ground) and the other is pink/black which goes to Fuse 45 (15 amp).
Next, there are brown wires common to #1 & 3, and brown/white common to #2 & 4. The brown goes to pin 78 on the ecu which is "LOW REF", and the brn/wht goes to pin 13 which is another "LOW REF".
The remaining unique colored wires to each coil are the IC (ignition coil) signal from the ecu. One of THESE should be the tach signal that is needed.
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So, it should be as simple as tapping into any one of the unique wires?
*Re-states need for a Hertz-reading DMM*
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thats the consensus
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So, it should be as simple as tapping into any one of the unique wires?
Yup. Again, one of the common (colored) wires is ground. Another common (colored) wire is fused power from the fuse box. Two pair of (matched colored) wires are low reference voltage from the ECM. The four unique (colored) should be the individual firing signals for each coil.
WWBD (what will Bob do)? When I get mine, I am going to tap into one of the unique signal wires. According to the wiring diagram the pin number is 3 at the coil. Looking at the vendor's web site they make it clear that this is the best option for COP ignition.
If everybody is nervous about this (I will be, too!!) I'll make you guys a deal. Send some pics of the two versions of the lights positioned on the instrument cluster so I can see how they look in place. Then I will order and install one and "proof" the hook up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Deal!
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Well, hang on, I only have the flat version...but here are the three options I'm considering:
[attachment=1]
Steering wheel pedestal mount. I don't plan on doing this one, but it seems to be one of the more popular install locations.
[attachment=2]
Upper dash. Second choice, would likely involve having to take more of the dash apart.
[attachment=3]
[attachment=4]
And here's my current plan. Should be pretty easy to hide the wiring and make it "pretty" as well. Since the gauge cluster cover isn't exactly flat, I'm thinking about using Velcro to mount the lights.
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So, it should be as simple as tapping into any one of the unique wires?
*Re-states need for a Hertz-reading DMM*
Do you mean like mine? :D
(http://presson.smugmug.com/photos/743155785_4XPWw-L.jpg)
I'll make you ANOTHER deal that you'll probably refuse. Come on out and I'll install the lights for you. I'll just need to try out your SKY gauge cluster in my Solstice while we're at it to see if the temp display code (programming) is in the gauge cluster or in the BCM. I have a sensor hooked up to the right terminals on my BCM right now, but unfortunately it's not as simple as that...
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B TW, here is the page that shows the different hook ups -- http://www.ecliptech.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67&Itemid=69
For racing I would think that mounting the light on the cluster hood (visually right above the steering wheel) would put it closer to the eyes and therefore in a bigger arc of ones peripheral vision. Don't like the velcro idea too much, but it might be secure enough. BUT, on second thought, it IS a convertible and would be a tempting target!! A little kill switch will be on mine as frankly I don't want that thing flashing at me all the time.
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Those pictures are also included in the manual that comes with the light.
I'll probably tear the car apart and install it tonight/tomorrow.
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Those pictures are also included in the manual that comes with the light.
I'll probably tear the car apart and install it tonight/tomorrow.
Are theses things the same price everywhere?
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yeah i haven't been able to find anywhere cheaper
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Oh and speaking to velcro... the 3M dual lock is great stuff and you can get it in varying strengths.
I'm leaning towards on top, but it might be really distracting at night. hopefully you can just turn the whole thing off when it's not necessary.
U - any luck? I just got like 6 inches of snow and it's cold. I dunno if I'm gunna go outside anymore than I have to today :P
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Nope, since we couldn't get my mom's car out of the garage I didn't have much room to work. I'm off the week between christmas and new years, so I should be able to get it done before the year is out.
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Finally got around to the install today. Tapped into the aforementioned wire, tapped power from my a-pillar gauge wiring, and ran a ground wire to the engine. Everything worked like a charm first try.
:woohoo:
As for setup, had to change the calibration from 2 to 0.5, my first thought was I had tapped into the wrong wire, but then when I revved to 4k the first light lit.
I'm currently using the default light pattern, set for 4k-6k. However, instead of shifting when the lights all flash I shift when the red light turns on. I found myself doing that more naturally than waiting for them all to flah. With the top limit set at 6k, the red light lights close to the 5.5k I want to shift at. This way, the flashing serves as a "you missed your shift point, shift now or hit the rev limiter" warning.
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Finally got around to the install today. Tapped into the aforementioned wire, tapped power from my a-pillar gauge wiring, and ran a ground wire to the engine. Everything worked like a charm first try.
:woohoo:
As for setup, had to change the calibration from 2 to 0.5, my first thought was I had tapped into the wrong wire, but then when I revved to 4k the first light lit.
I'm currently using the default light pattern, set for 4k-6k. However, instead of shifting when the lights all flash I shift when the red light turns on. I found myself doing that more naturally than waiting for them all to flah. With the top limit set at 6k, the red light lights close to the 5.5k I want to shift at. This way, the flashing serves as a "you missed your shift point, shift now or hit the rev limiter" warning.
FANTASTIC !!!!!!!!!!!!! Great job. But ................................. :ttiwwpic2:
BTW, WHICH aforementioned wire was the wire you tapped into?
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The purple wire on the front-most cylinder. (The unique colored wire for that pack.) I think the wiring colors are different on the 09's compared to some the other years.
Pics and maybe video are coming. Ended up mounting it on the steering wheel, made for a much simpler install, and it's still really easy to see.
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Sweeeeeet waiting for it to get warmer
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The purple wire on the front-most cylinder. (The unique colored wire for that pack.) I think the wiring colors are different on the 09's compared to some the other years.
Pics and maybe video are coming. Ended up mounting it on the steering wheel, made for a much simpler install, and it's still really easy to see.
Did the included wires reach long enough? If not what do you use to extend them?
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Can't wait to get this done on my 07 automatic...
GJ
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Also where did you end up sending wire through the firewall uranium. think there is room without drilling?
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Can't wait to get this done on my 07 automatic...
:lol:
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Can't wait to get this done on my 07 automatic...
GJ
:huh:
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If you have a dashdaq you can use the newest s2k skin with this little shift screen... you can't miss it :)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a237/BoonyanetrPaul/shift_light.jpg)
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If you have a dashdaq you can use the newest s2k skin with this little shift screen... you can't miss it :)
Does it just turn red at a selected rev point, or is there an option to blink or change colors so as to warn of the up coming shift point?
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I'm more interested in knowing when to downshift. My goal is to have the lights go out when it's time to downshift
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I've got a few spools of 18 gauge wire I use for auto wiring, I just used those.
As for routing through the firewall, I used the same spot DDM did when they installed my boost gauge. Right by the ECM there's a rubber bushing with a bundle of cables running through it. DDM made a whole in that to run the boost gauge hookup. They left enough slack that I was able to use it like fishtape to run the new wires through there.
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Does it just turn red at a selected rev point, or is there an option to blink or change colors so as to warn of the up coming shift point?
It just turns red for now, not sure if its possible to make it blink or whatever, but you can set an alarm on top of it.
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I've got some thought to add after using this thing for a couple weeks:
It's really hard to tell the difference between the red and yellow lights if they're not turned up enough.
Lights seem to be easily visible in direct sunlight, with the aforementioned issue.
One problem if you mount it on the steering column: You won't be able to see it if you've got the wheel turned 90* either way. (d'oh!)
All in all I'm pretty happy with it.
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Hopefully I won't be shifting too much while turning that hard!
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I've got some thought to add after using this thing for a couple weeks:
It's really hard to tell the difference between the red and yellow lights if they're not turned up enough.
Lights seem to be easily visible in direct sunlight, with the aforementioned issue.
One problem if you mount it on the steering column: You won't be able to see it if you've got the wheel turned 90* either way. (d'oh!)
All in all I'm pretty happy with it.
And that answers THAT question. When I get one, I know where it will go.
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I've got a few spools of 18 gauge wire I use for auto wiring, I just used those.
One more simple question, did you use the included wiretaps to connect to the coil wire? These are of a style I have never seen before and am curious if I should use those or something else.
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I used the "regular" style wiretaps that I have. Didn't really like the look of theirs...
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Pics?!
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Pics?!
Yeah I'd love to see pics to make sure I tap the right wire. Also where did you tap the other two wires?
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I'll try and get pics, though the wire might not be visible, the tap covers it up. For power I tapped into the wires I ran to light my gauges, ground I ran to the engine.
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I'm looking around for places to put the wires through now. If anyone can be helpful and share that would be great. I'd rather not drill if possible.
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Anyone know what this is? for reference, that is the clutch pedal. the thing is just next to the footrest
(http://gallery.me.com/kennysabarese/100348/What-20is-20this---/web.jpg?ver=12706772360001)
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The master brake cylinder denies all access to that hole through the firewall. Give me a sec, I'll try and get a picture of what I ended up doing.
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SWEET
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[attachment=1]
:sorry: for taking so long, dinner interrupted.
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Sweet dude. Thanks! I think this will work. Will try tomorrow
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Where did you get that sticker about the hood and doors?
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Dunno, since it came with the car. :D Passenger side has one too.
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U, Should i be worried about protecting the wire hooked to the engine from heat? did you attempt to integrate it into the silver wire protector?
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Also does it matter which cylinder. i was hoping to do the cylinder closest to the cockpit so less wire is exposed to the heat of the engine, and so the run is shorter
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I did the opposite cylinder lol, that way I didn't have to mess with any of the stock heat shielding.
As for my heat shielding, I used some of that aluminum tape. You know, the stuff they say you should use for duct work instead of real duck tape. Looks like it's doing it's job so far.
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I ordered one of these today http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-SHIFT-LAMP-RED-LED-LIGHT-CONTROL-RPM-TACH_W0QQitemZ220586959638QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335c01e316 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-SHIFT-LAMP-RED-LED-LIGHT-CONTROL-RPM-TACH_W0QQitemZ220586959638QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item335c01e316)
The light seems small enough to fit right where the fuel gauge is or where the dummy lights are, it also plugs into the 12v outlet, but i think i'll add a second outlet behind the console somewhere so the install looks clean.
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I got mine in today. Will post a detailed writeup soon.
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Where did you mount it? With a full-face helmet I'm wishing I'd mounted it above the gauges.
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I haven't permanently mounted it yet. Right now it's just laying on top of the steering wheel jammed under the guage pod to hold in place. But I have enough slack in the wires to move it.
I always try to hold off on installing stuff like that permanently until I am sure it is the right spot.
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I could move mine easily enough, but it would be a pain. I HATE pulling the interior apart, always feel like I'm going to break something...
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I feel your pain. Things never go back the same with interiors.
That's why i love that spot on top of the steering column, you can route the wires without needing to take anything apart.
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I still have to remove the bottom stuff to get at my wiring though. It's one of those things that can wait till the next time I have to take everything apart.
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First post is updated with install procedure.
Here are pics if you don't like to read
http://gallery.me.com/kennysabarese#100364 (http://gallery.me.com/kennysabarese#100364)
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I wish I could remember the cal setting I ended up using. I've got mine set so it starts at 4k and ends at 5.5k. Keeps things solidly in the powerband.
After the autocross school I'm thinking about moving the end to 6k. The course they setup for us at the end of the day was really fast, and knowing exactly where redline was in second would have been nice. Hard to decide whether or not to shift into third when all you know is you're close to redline.
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When you get an aftermarket tune you'll have a larger powerband allegedly
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So I configured my shift light to go between 4k and 6,250 so It'll blink when it's time to do a no lift shift. Haven't driven with it yet though, so I might adjust it.
If I can adjust the NLS to be activated sooner I might move it down. I really wanna use the NLS feature, mostly cuz it's fun :)
I'm pissed I wasn't able to go to Lime Rock and put the thing to use, I busted my ass to get it installed by then.
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Kenny,
Can you video a run that show you in action? Not looking to do this mod, but interested to see how well it works.
GJ
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So I decided to relocate my lights to the top of the shroud in order to see it better. When it was on top of the steering column it was difficult to see.
The only issue is now that it reflects on the windshield, so I'll have to give it a visor.
The ugly white double stick tape is temporary :)
[attachment=1]
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If you change the angle it's sitting at that may be enough to keep it from reflecting in the windshield.
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Yeah to change the angle I'd have to shim it or something. That was the only spot that was flat. If I like the position, I will probably re-route the wires to not show on the dash and make a nicer mount. For now i'll just tape on a piece of paper to block it :)
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So I found a great solution to the reflection problem....
[attachment=1]
;)
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On a more serious note, I had a problem with this on the track.
The light would be working fine, then after a few laps it would just stop working and show all bizarre lights so unplugged it for the day. The next day it started working fine again and again halfway through my session, freaking out.
So I think maybe the RPM wire is getting hot and making it freak out.
I have some thin aluminum tape. Will that actually make a difference, or do I need something thicker?
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I wrapped mine with aluminum tape, however unless the rubber insulator melts heat shouldn't affect a wire. I've never had any issues with mine.
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All the other electronics are wrapped for heat....