Kappa Performance Forum
Community => Supporting Vendors => Performance Autowerks => Topic started by: werks on November 11, 2009, 04:26:01 PM
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You heard it! As an introduction sale for me, Dave is letting me discount turbo kits for everyone! So, if you are looking for power, stop here and let us make some for you.
Here is how it will break down. The more people we get, the better price you guys get. So tell your friends, neighbors, co-workers, or what have you!
Solstice/SKY 2.4L Stage 1 - List = $4199 (http://"http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=334_158_218&products_id=1282")
GB 1-10 = $3800.00
GB 11-20 = $3300.00
Solstice/SKY 2.4L Stage 2 - List = $4999 (http://"http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=334_158_218&products_id=1397")
GB 1-10 = $4500.00
GB 11-20 = $4000.00
Solstice/SKY 2.0L "50 Trim" Turbo Tuner kit w/High Flow cat - List = $3250.00 (http://"http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=334_165_328&products_id=1550")
GB 1-10 = $2950.00
GB 11-20 = $2650.00
The group price is for up to 20 people TOTAL!
Powder Coating is free in your choice of colors!
Ceramic coating is $125.00 for the turbo and $150.00 for the manifold. Your choice of Silver (good to 1500*) or black (good to 2000*).
All prices are shipped to the lower 48 states.
In shop install prices are as follows:
2.0T kit is $700.00
2.4L Stage 1 is $900.00
2.4L Stage 2 is $1200.00
In shop tuning prices are as follows:
Complete Dyno tuning (base and GXP) is $500.00
Base map for GXP is $100.00
Base map reflash for base is included!!!
Financing is available here (http://"http://performanceautowerks.com/Pages/Main%20Frames.htm") (click the financing link at the top of the header).
Sale ends on THANKSGIVING (give thanks for boost!!!)
Da List -
1) Salstice
2) IBDRINKIN
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Do you have Dyno Charts for the 2.0 kit.
I'm interested in the graph more than the max power.
Thanks
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409whp and 428 ftlbs tq
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh308/PerformanceAutowerks/Shop%20Vehicles/WERKS%20MAX%20POWER%20GXP/MaxPowerGXP409hp.jpg)
Keep in mind this was at 29 psi which is why the torque curve looks like it takes a while to come on. If you look closely you will see it making 340ftlbs at 3700-3800rpm which is where the turbo is spooling up to around 20 psi
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That comes on alot later than the stock turbo.
Any graphs of it on a lower boost
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You can't really compare this to the stock turbo. It is substantially larger than the stock turbo. If I remember correctly, its about 1.5 times larger. I don't think we have any graphs on lower boost, but if you imagine the graph basically plateauing at 3700 rpm where it reaches about 20 psi then thats what it would look like. It would hold that power up until redline.
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They can sell the kit with a smaller turbo I heard
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Thanks, that does answer my question.
Unfortunately I'm not interested in waiting that long for the power to kick in.
I don't like the off then hold onto your ass crazy power turbo setups.
I'm not a drag racer and the down low power is actually more important for the roads I drive and my driving style.
I guess my best bet is a turbo wheel upgrade with a more aggressive tune
or
A twin Charge setup.
That's what I get for previously owning a Supercharged car and a Buell
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Yes, we can offer the kit with a smaller, GT28 sized turbo, and we can do the compressor wheel upgrade too. I would expect the GT28 to produce max power just after the stock turbo would, say about 3300-3500 rpm max. We have never actually had the GT28 on the dyno as far as I know, so no dyno sheets there. We have options, lemme know what you would like to explore, and I bet we could work something up. Lemme know!
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Hey guys, I am going to extend the same offer Dave made on the other forum. Regarding a GMPP tuned, manual LNF:
"If you brought your car here I can guarantee it would make right around 450hp on 93 Octane with our "50 trim" kit and the GMPP sensors or I would refund your money, how is that?"
Thats a pretty sweet deal, so if anyone has a GMPP, manual Solstice or Sky, and is interested in some big power, get a hold of either Dave or I!
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Any update on finding a customer with the big kit in NJ NY PA CT?
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I think Dave said the nearest one was in VT. I will have to look through my PMs again and he what he actually said though. I do remember it was a ways away, and he was still trying to get a hold of him, last i knew.
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Bumping this guys! If you have any questions, lemme know! Best to send me a PM here or on the Solstice forum. I have alerts sent to my email, so I won't overlook it (but for some reason it won't alert me for threads... gonna check my settings...).
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hit the notify button, and there is a setting to have you auto notify when you start or respond in a topic
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I tried that, but for some reason it hasn't sent me any, lol.
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The GT2860RS disco potato and GT2871R are probably still the best options for most who want a basic upgrade. Ball bearing design for the quickest spool up without reinventing the whole concept with aerochargers (and the large price hike). Nobody has tried and tuned them for the car yet (especially with the newest capabilities such as the trifecta fuel rail mods) but this should be the sweet spot between the bigwheel upgrade and larger turbos. Very good spool and decent top end increase. My guess is that the first to try will probably impress a lot of people with their results (using the right tuner).
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We don't need the trifecta to tune for the GT28 sized turbos. We have been over 400 whp with our typical 5457 (50 trim, bit bigger than a gt30). My bet is anyone with the GT28 is not looking for a ton more than 400 whp. The biggest thing would be someone having a GMPP kit so we can run the boost high!
I would love to see someone try it though!
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Yes, but there is more to tuning than max whp.
And I would have expected more from a 50 trim than I've seen so far.
Don't get me wrong. I really appreciate what you guys are doing.
I think that as the ECU is unlocked better things will be coming from everyone. My post was about Vince being ahead of the curve on tuning at this time.
You guys rock on turbo upgrades. I hope you lead the community for our cars. And I think there are great synergies available.
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Oh yeah, if we had a table to make the throttle cooperate with us, then we would be pushing alot more. But, when the throttle closes after 3 seconds because we can't adjust for it, then there isn't much we can do about it. All of this was doen before the GMPP kit too. So, like it has been said, if we get a GMPP car with a manual transmission Dave is guaranteeing 450whp or the kit is on us. Someone needs to step up to the plate for that one!
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Bumping this guys! Lemme know if you have questions! Let's keep the discussion alive too as you never know what questions can be asked or answered by simple discussion.
I'll get it started, I guess.
Q:What do I need to put this kit on my car?
A: NOTHING! All the kits come with everything you need to run. The 2.4 kits come with everything (intercooler, piping, etc), and the LNF kits can be used with all the stock components (intercooler, piping, etc). The best results would be with all of the 'bolt ons' though.
Maybe this will spur some questions!
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Here is a simple question, with a 2007 GXP with auto tranny, SOLO High Flow CAT and SOLO Street Race Exhaust and a custom HP Tuners tune, what would the expected 1/4 Mile times be with your 50 Trim kit turbo upgrade? I currently run 13.145 in the 1/4 Mile, so would a Turbo upgrade get me into the 11's?
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I would think you are asking a lot of the 50 trim kit to trim over a second off of your times.
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Well, it really depends. I don't know how well you can drive, but it seems fairly well. If I knew what you dyno'd right now with your current mods, I could give you an idea how much more the big turbo would knock off. Do I think you could knock off a second, possibly, but it would be pushing it. There would be alot of other mods needed, in terms of suspension and traction that would need to be addressed first.
If you were running slicks, then heck yes it would, as slicks would likely knock .5 off your time already (if properly used). Traction will be the biggest factor when you start adding tons of power.
On our latest big turbo/auto combo we made 350whp. Thats quite stout. I am not sure how it equates to your current numbers though.
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350hp is nice, but what was the torque band like? Low end torque is a must for autocrossing, and Critter's supercharger certainly delivers in that respect.
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This guy who won a lot of autocross championships has his power come in surprisingly late compared to our car.
(http://farnorthracing.com/newimages/dyno3.jpg)
http://farnorthracing.com/ (http://farnorthracing.com/)
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I wonder what his gear ratios are like...
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Mike,
What's the best turbo to use to get 450 CRANK horsepower as soon as possible and hold it to redline? At the track I usually am bouncing off the limiter.
I don't want a turbo that is too big or else it'll hit my peak power too late. I want to utilize the turbo fully.
lastly do you think the manifold is necessary for this power level?
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You talking to me (it's Matt, btw, Lol... I forgive you, i get it all the time)?
First, what kind of course? Big, open, fast road course, or tight slower, technical course, or AutoX?
If you are running a tight, technical course (which I like best) or AutoX, here is what I would do. I would buy the GT28 kit, to maintain as much low end torque as possible. I would get valve springs so I could rev safely to about 7500rpm, and I would slightly port and polish the head. That, with all the bolt ons would be sufficient enough for the motor for me. If you want to get faster, get back with us have us hack off the flanges (if needed, I am not sure what flange sizes we use for each turbo), and weld on new ones, then swap the turbo out to a bigger one!
Thats how I would work it, but I am not sure what sort of track driving you do mostly.
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Road courses only from VIR to Watkins Glen to Mid Ohio. Not AutoX
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hah matt. sorry
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I would definitely recommend the GT28. Its not going to give you low end grunt, per say, but it will definitely give you a beefier mid range punch. Without doing a balance shaft delete and a complete head build, you really can't rev past 8k rpm, which would put the powerband right at the end of what your engine is capable of running to with the bigger turbo.
Thats how I would do it. It may or may not be the best way to work it though. Alot depends on your driving style. I am one that would rather shift less, and use my torque to pull me through as I keep it in the middle of the powerband. Some people shift more and use the top of the powerband, which the big turbo would be better suited for.
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well the two courses i have been on so far, NJMP lightning and englishtown. i shift only once or twice on the track. from 3rd to 4th and i'm always bouncing off the rev limiter and NEVER have the tach below 4000 RPM
i don't think i need to increase the redline because i can get the horsepower level i want without revving any higher.
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Ok, are you on the stock rev limit of 6250? I mean, its not necessary to raise the redline, but if you are bouncing it off the limiter, I am sure you could pick up some time by raising it, depending of course on how much you hit the limiter. Just saying thats what I, myself would do (and am doing to my car). A slight raise might benefit, and its not bad on the engine to go a bit higher. I drag raced my Cobalt all last season, and to get through the traps without shifting to 4th, I was putting it up to a 7250 rev limit (a bit cocky, really... my engine hates me for that, lol), with no problem. that itself knocked .2 seconds from my time. Thats just an example how much NOT hittin the limiter could help. Then again, if you aren;t into tenths of seconds, it won't matter as much. Its all up to the driver.
Another scenario though... with more power you will have to shift because you will hit the rev limiter quicker. So, I mean you would have to try it out and see what you like.
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when i first got this car and was on the forums, everyone said that GM says the engine can handle 400-450HP without modification. I don't wanna go over that.
regarding rev limiter: i have the GMPP sensors and tune so that is where my rev limiter is... if it's safe to raise the rev limiter that is fine.
moral of the story is: i just don't wanna break anything. road courses are already pushing the engine hard enough. i think 100+ hp boost will be enough.
i'm not that concerned about my lap times yet, i am a new racer. I usually have my fun with my revs high on the interstate, but when i get better on the track i want the car to be ready for me. so i am tuning it for road courses.
also this sale is too good to turn down so that's the only reason i am looking into it so soon, i have money put aside for 2 grand plus in seats harness and HANS device which i need for next seatson.
So with that target/limit in mind. I need to figure out the total package of mods including the turbo. If I don't have to get all those mods to get my power target, I'd rather not spend the money.
(I've heard BTF runs bigger turbos making big power on the stock exhaust!)
The only mod I am definitely planning on is putting in an exhaust cutout because I need my car to be louder on the track. (can't hear the engine for rev matching)
Also remember I'm a total newb so I'm sure there is more to it.
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The only mod I am definitely planning on is putting in an exhaust cutout because I need my car to be louder on the track. (can't hear the engine for rev matching)
Have you thought of a shift light? Coxx turbo makes one that matches our dash light (orange) and it's small.
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Ya know, I think starting out you could do just fine with the GT28 kit on the stock components. then, as you need more power/get the money for it, put some more parts on it. The stock exhaust is 2.5" already, so no, its not bad. There are some iffy bends made in it, but it won't matter with a cut out.
I think the biggest things you want to consider are things that will improve spool time, and reliability. The items that will reduce spool time are the manifold and downpipe (exhaust if you weren't doing a cutout), and those are taken care of in the kit. As for reliability, I would definitely look into an intercooler. The cooler your charge temps, the more reliable the car will be. But, then again, thats something you can add down the line. Let me know if I can put you down yet or not... the pricing is ridiculous. I couldn't believe when Dave said what the prices would be.
I have been looking at seats and HANS as well... pretty pricey mugs. Which seats do you have your eyes on?
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Have you thought of a shift light? Coxx turbo makes one that matches our dash light (orange) and it's small.
I am going to get shift lights. I have no idea what to get. Any recommendation?
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The reason I mention that I am bouncing off the limiter is to let everyone know where i want my power. UP TOP :)
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I hear Raptor shiftlights are nice. I have looked into one myself. But, I also found a progressive one (think F1 car style), but I don't remember where.
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I am going to get shift lights. I have no idea what to get. Any recommendation?
I've been looking at the raptor lights. Small, and though they're a tick pricey I think they'd be easier to make look good than a drag racing light.
http://www.raptorperformance.com/ (http://www.raptorperformance.com/)
EDIT: Matt beat me to it! I also found the F1 style ones, give me a sec I'll have a link...though I think 2 raptors would be best. One orange/yellow one lit while in powerband/shift range, another red light a tick before redline.
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I like their warning light. Might try to figure out a way to wire that into my knock sensor so I don't have to datalog all the time.
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Also, from the other thread here...
It had gotten brought up on another forum how our turbo compared to Dejon's, and how we were guaranteeing one person with GMPP tune and a manual trans 450whp, when Dejon claims 450 crank hp. Here was my response (feel free to comment, discuss, or whatever):
Ours is the 5457E-B with HP technology. I am not sure which specific one they use.
Ours is rated to 460hp, by Precision, those (from my experience) seem to be extremely conservative estimated crank numbers. But, there are a ton of different aspects that play a role in how much power an engine will make from a certain turbo. Basically, the biggest one is how well does the engine use the airflow that the turbo provides. Our lovely LNF is VERY efficient when it comes to this. The DI helps cool the air charge (which makes it more dense = more hp), its a relatively high compression motor for a forced induction motor (thanks to the cooler air charge), and the tune plays a big factor.
I can only emphasize how much a good tune will do for you. I am not sure if Dejon does tuning in house, so I will not compare directly to that. But, we know our kits the best. We have installed a great number of them and have tuned them for the same amount of time. And we know how to get the power we want out of it.
So, comparing those numbers to our goals... I would say, even though they are intended for crank horsepower... on the LNF they could be more related to wheel horsepower. Not just because they are conservative numbers, but also because the LNF is very efficient with the supplied airflow, and we know how to make this kit work.
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Bingo!
http://lumitach.com/ (http://lumitach.com/)
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Dejon has their own tune and then sells trifecta. you vendors should know each other's products so you can convince us to give you money over them. :) it's all laid out on the site. honestly he has way more info on his site than you guys do.
his kit has different sized AR's available with that turbo. the bigger AR gives more top end power but increases lag.
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regarding shift lights. i am looking for two or three stage lights. lumitach looks interesting.
also http://www.ecliptech.com.au/
one more http://www.tekniqauto.com/CDN/tsport/tsport.htm
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Dejon has their own tune and then sells trifecta. you vendors should know each other's products so you can convince us to give you money over them. :) it's all laid out on the site. honestly he has way more info on his site than you guys do.
his kit has different sized AR's available with that turbo. the bigger AR gives more top end power but increases lag.
Yes, I am still quite new to the Solstice world. I am picking up, but its taking time. There is a bit of a reason we do things differently at WERKS. We want to be the main source of communication to our customer, not our website. We want to personally answer questions so that we know our customers are making the decision to the best of their knowledge, and you never know if what they want to buy is what they truly need until you talk to them about the wants and needs they have for their car. that is why we try to reach you guys on Forums and more personal approaches.
So, there is a reason behind everything.
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is there any reason to be concerned about heat doing road racing with an air cooled turbo?
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No, the oil will cool it just fine. Just make sure not to rip it then park it hot.
Only 5 days left guys!!!! Let me know. I will be on here alot this weekend, so please, PM me or post up with questions so I can get them answered before the sale ends!
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oh its oil cooled k
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Ok I have one dumb question. Would I get the same power results by putting airflow mods (IC exhaust, downpipe etc etc) and using a smaller turbo, versus using a larger turbo without those mods. the second method would be cheaper
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Yes. And there is more potential in the bigger turbo. The big turbo kit already comes with a downpipe, since we can't utilize the stock flange, so there is one down already. Its just the fact that the spool won't be that great. But, from the sounds of it, you like to live in the top the powerband, so it shouldn't be much of an issue for you.
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So when the website says you made 375whp with this kit what mods were on the car? and for the dyno with 409whp what were those mods, and fuel etc.
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also what is the wastegate dump tube. i haven't seen this from any other vendor.
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oh one more thing, if i remember you are really good with HP tuners.
is there a way to modify values to make the stock turbo lag more? just so i can see what it's like?
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So when the website says you made 375whp with this kit what mods were on the car? and for the dyno with 409whp what were those mods, and fuel etc.
The 375 was with an intercooler, pipes, intake, exhaust. The 415 was the previous, tuned for 109 octane fuel.
The wastegate dump tube is the exhaust pipe that runs from the wastegate to the atmosphere to re-route the exhaust gases from the turbine side of the turbo.
And yes, I could change a map or 2 to make it feel like the stock turbo lags more, but I wouldn't be able to get the power up top that a bigger turbo would give you... or really even the feel a bigger turbo would give you. If you have HPT you could email me your tune and a good log and I could see what I could work up.
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i have an hp tuners and i've haven't used it yet. i have GMPP stock tune. was thinking it might be interesting to replicate the lag to see what would happen. i'll let you know.
it doesn't look like we are getting 11 to get it down to the price i was hoping for :(
maybe if you extend through january any people who get money for the holidays will jump on it... *shrug*
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Yeah... thats an idea. I will see what Dave thinks. Only thing is, i don't want to keep it open too long, because it is after all, a sale. I don't want people beginning to think its the regular price, ya know, lol.
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Hey guys! I made a new sticky topic in the Performance Autowerks forum about compressor mapping. Feel free to check it out. I think this is very interesting stuff, and it may help some of you decide which turbo will best suit you!
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Only one day left guys! Ask me any questions you still have while the prices are still low!!