Topic: Lug nut removal

[Imaj]

Hi guys...I have never taken off my wheels before. Does the Solstice come with a tool for removal? Do I need to be concerned with scratching the chrome lugs? Thanks!

[LiquidPT]

Hi guys...I have never taken off my wheels before. Does the Solstice come with a tool for removal? Do I need to be concerned with scratching the chrome lugs? Thanks!

No, since the Sol doesn't come with a jack (nor spare), it doesn't come with a lug wrench either... I just use a 19mm deep socket on a breaker bar.

[DeepBlueGXP]

Like LiquidPT says but a 3/4 deep works also. 

[Sky 5]

Prefer a good old 4-way (X) lug wrench; one end being the 3/4 - 19mm.
Two handed approach to loosening puts less angular stress on the lug
and reduces the likelihood of messing up the nice smooth lugnut finish.

[lil goat]

I just use my cordless impact wrench, with a 19mm or 3/4.

[DeepBlueGXP]

Don't forget, torque lugs to 100ft lbs, don't use an impact.  Over tightening can snap lugs and/or warp rotors

[lil goat]

The cordless impact only goes to about 95 ft/lbs nothing to worry about, my air impact is a whole different story, like DBG said. I do have a setting on my air impact to keep it from over tightening, I can turn it down. Using the Torque wrench is an often forgotten step (good luck finding anyone at a dealer who uses one)

[Uranium-238]

My usual process for removing/reinstalling wheels.

Unless I'm putting the car up on jackstands, I do this one side at a time.

Break all lug nuts loose with a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 19mm socket and a 6" extension
Jack up that side of the car
Remove lug nuts the rest of the way
Remove wheels

Re-install wheels
Install lug nuts till they're hand tight, using the star pattern
Lower that side of the vehicle
Torque all lug nuts to 60 ft/lbs, again in a star patern
Re-torque all lug nuts to the final 100 ft/lbs, and you guessed it, in the star pattern.

[kennysabarese]

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced torque wrench or electric/air tool that I can use to get proper torque for wheels and other bolts all around the car.

[KWhale]

Well, there are some tools you can get by with by cheaping out on them, and some you shouldn't.  Torque wrenches fit in the latter group.  I actually ended up buying 2 different ones (both from Sears, but that's not a recommendation, just information) to do 2 different jobs.  A Larger one for things like wheel bolts etc that need over 100lb of torque, and a Smaller one for things like coil overs and spark plugs that need smaller amounts of torque applied and for working in tighter areas.

I would suggest you start with a big one, since you're doing your wheels now anyway, and when money permits, buy a smaller one if needed?

Note - Torque wrenches are not hammers, or pry bars!  They should actually be handled carefully and not banged around like most tools.  Remember, they are for calibrating things, and should be thought of as a tool that needs to be babied

Ooops - Last Note - The instructions U-238 have above are exactly what I do when rotating tires with 1 more step included.  I got this from a couple of different tire places "back in the day" so I'm not sure if it's need anymore or not.  After driving the car a couple of times, and the rims/tires/brakes have had a couple of heat up / cool down cycles, torque them one last time.  I have found bolts that were a tiny bit looser after the cycle, but not sure if that was due to operator error on the re-install or not

[LiquidPT]

The cordless impact only goes to about 95 ft/lbs nothing to worry about, my air impact is a whole different story, like DBG said. I do have a setting on my air impact to keep it from over tightening, I can turn it down. Using the Torque wrench is an often forgotten step (good luck finding anyone at a dealer who uses one)

Uh, my cordless impact is rated to either 150 or 200 ft.lb. Otherwise, it'd never be able to "break" the lug nuts for me...

[Ben L]

Good advice here.  Invest in a GOOD torque wrench (I have a long SK Tools one, and love it), keep it in an impact proof box, and baby it.  

Your life literally depends on properly torqued lug nuts.  Especially in any kind of competition use.

You can get into trouble fast with a 200 ft/lb+ impact air tool on wheel studs and lug nuts.

Another tip:  always thread the lug nuts on by hand at first, and make sure they go on easy before applying the tool.  When you cross-thread your first nut on a 3" hardened ARP pressed-in racing stud, you'll learn the reason why.

[LiquidPT]

You can get into trouble fast with a 200 ft/lb+ impact air tool on wheel studs and lug nuts.

Another tip:  always thread the lug nuts on by hand at first, and make sure they go on easy before applying the tool.  When you cross-thread your first nut on a 3" hardened ARP pressed-in racing stud, you'll learn the reason why.

Right, I only use the impact to remove. I alwyas thread on by hand and use a socket and toqrue wrench when putting them on

[Critterman]

One other thing no one has mentioned, when you are done, reset the torque wrench to the 0  setting

[Uranium-238]

One other thing no one has mentioned, when you are done, reset the torque wrench to the 0  setting

According to the directions that came with the ones I use, I return it to 20 ft/lbs.

[Imaj]

Speaking of torque wrenches...Can someone guide me to a good one? Thanks for all your help!

[Ben L]

I have an SK Tools 1/2" drive 25-250 ft/lb. adjustable micrometer 'clicker.'   SK Tools Part No. 74555.   US made; about $100.

[DeepBlueGXP]

I have a sears craftsman 1/2 drive 20-150 ftlbs

[lil goat]

Uh, my cordless impact is rated to either 150 or 200 ft.lb. Otherwise, it'd never be able to "break" the lug nuts for me...

Mine has 2 battery options, that's why I got the 3/8 drive instead of the 1/2 it gives me more options and they cost the same, with the 3 amp battery it will go to 160 ft/lbs, with the 1.5 amp it will just barely break the lugs loose, 1260 inch/lbs if the battery is fully charged, if they are at 100 ft/lbs and when I tighten them I can always get them just a little bit tighter to hit 100 ft/lbs. I need a new torque wrench, someone stole mine! My son!

[snaponbob]

This is the best torque tool outside the Snap On product line. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Precision-C3FR250F-1%2f2-Dr.-Split-Beam-Torque-Wrench_W0QQitemZ190310787384QQcmdZViewItem Precision used to supply S.O. with this tool until they started building their own. It is NOT reversible as it only torques one way. The really trick aspect of it is that one does NOT have to return the adjuster to its lowest setting. Just set it and forget it. 

[elff]

Since I have an electrical outlet right next to my Garage door, I opted for a 400 ft.lb electrical impact wrench.
I actually just bought it.  Previously, I had been doing all of my work without one.   
It's reaally NICE.
I also have a good torque wrench.

Lil Goat
When I got my new rims and had the tires swapped over, the mechanic pulled out a torque wrench and did all 4 tires.
This was at CJ Tire and Auto.
Needless to say, I was very surprised

[Imaj]

This is the best torque tool outside the Snap On product line. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Precision-C3FR250F-1%2f2-Dr.-Split-Beam-Torque-Wrench_W0QQitemZ190310787384QQcmdZViewItem Precision used to supply S.O. with this tool until they started building their own. It is NOT reversible as it only torques one way. The really trick aspect of it is that one does NOT have to return the adjuster to its lowest setting. Just set it and forget it. 

Thanks everyone. I learned a lot from this. I went to Sears tonight, to have a look see at a torque wrench. Man they are huge! I did not expect them to be the size that they are. I was looking at the 1/2 T.W. I think I am going to buy the one Bob mentioned on ebay. I like the set it and forget it option.