Topic: Sub woofer wiring

[lil goat]

Lots of you know our cars have dual voice coil 2 ohm subs from the factory, I recently upgraded mine and there were many lesson's learned. The sub I chose was a poor choice for many reason but with the little info I had I was a shot in the dark, a 10" will fit if you have a roto zip and are willing to do some cutting on the sub enclosure or build a new box. I found this wiring digram that I found to be very useful if I change my system down the road. From this you can see if you buy a new sub get a dual voice coil 2 ohm speaker it affords you a lot more options, from dual 2 ohm like stock to 1 ohm to 4 ohm.


This would most likely be a much better choice of woofer than the one I bought

P3SD210
10" Punch P3 2-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer
The Rockford Fosgate P3 10" Shallow Mount subwoofer delivers the Punch - even in depth limited mounting situations. All vehicles are not the same: some can accommodate deep subwoofers and some can't. In the past that meant no Bass. Not anymore! Now even depth challenged vehicles can have REAL Bass and the Dual Voice Coil allows configurations for every application. Shallow woofers are designed for challenging spaces when a traditional woofer cannot be used.
You can pick them up for about $120 on eBay brand new.

[Critterman]

So bottom line, how does it sound?

[lil goat]

To soon to say, it sounds better than stock but I think when I get the rest of the parts I need in it will be even better. The low level outputs from the stock system are very low, I will most likely switch to the high level outputs. The sub itself works fine just not getting the input to the amp I need, this would all be taken cars of with a replacement head unit, I did things very quickly and need to go back and check phasing and some other things, just ran out of time. I will do some testing tonight and more when my new grill and wiring come in. the rear speaker replacement was very easy and well worth the $40 I spent they sound fantastic, I have them choked at 600 hz (low pass filter), I am going to drop them down to 300 or maybe 150 to allow a little more bass from them as is there is zero distortion and they really fill in the sound.

[IBDRINKEN]

i have the thin mount kickers in mine and they sound good, but jpm had to cut the back out on both sides.

[hammy221]

when this is all done i would like to see picture's. every place i went to either told me it was going to cost 3,000 to make it should good or that iam a fool to change my stock monsoon due to it sounds  good now

[lil goat]

I can tell you if you want to improve the sound of your car step one, get in touch with Rudeboy (Don) from Sounddeadeningshowdown.com (yes they are a vendor here). Get the kit for at least the doors, it is a complete and total pain in the A$$ to install but well worth the effort, if you are patient anyone can do it.

I redid the amp wiring last night and now am using the high level inputs, it sounds fantastic. The MB Quart woofer really sounds sweet but that dang voice coil sticking out the front is a pain. I still have to get the fans on the amp but it kicks hard. I have under $400 in the upgrades excluding the damping and it sounds better than most systems I have heard. With a new head unit it will be even better. People say you can't hear the rear speakers, bull tonsils, I can damn sure hear mine they are little Kicker 3.5's with bass blockers so they don't distort, just this $40 upgrade will make a big difference. The stock rear speakers with bass blockers on them most likely wouldn't sound bad, blockers are about $10.

Most stereo shops are about making money and understand little about making good sound, they just know loud. They just throw a bunch of dynamat on stuff and don't even know why. It doesn't work for beans, I did that to my doors first and it made my system sound worse. I have been educated by Rudeboy, and hope to continue my education, he absolutely knows his stuff. If you have a nice system I bet he can make it sound even better.