Topic: Twincharged Solstice = Turbocharger + Supercharger

[Steelmesh]

So what do you think so far.  Does feel more powerful?

During the recent shenanigans cruising around with the new turbo I have been running it on low boost near wastegate pressure, all I can say is it is running pretty good.  The SC has a large stock pulley being spun by a under-drive damper pulley; with that the SC is technically lame.  The SC is lame because it is being spun slower than stock speeds using a stock SC pulley.  Stock PR is about 1.8, I am running about 1.6.

Regardless, there is a ton of development and calibration to do before I try to break new power records. 

[Steelmesh]

Mid-pipe fabrication in progress

[Steelmesh]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvtuDaAoJ2I

[MattM]

Def sounds mean as hell!!!!

[Steelmesh]

Long complicated story short:

1) Exhaust manifold cracked
2) Exhaust manifold removed and repaired
3) Exhaust manifold bolted up and then the car was immediately driven to the drag strip with 0 minutes to spare
4) Exhaust manifold stud nut backed off and caused an exhaust leak
5) Already paid to race so made 1 run, fueling was super rich and it could not make more than 13 psi boost
6) Drove home

New ARP nut ordered will try again in a couple weeks.

[Steelmesh]

I ordered a new arp nut for the manifold stud and pulled the turbo, replaced the nut and got everything back together.  I still heard an exhaust leak so I figured it was time to machine the flanges flat.  I pulled everything apart again and indeed the flange needs some flattening service, but I also found some more cracks in the manifold that I missed (being a rush to fix the big crack).

This manifold was made by Werks and some folks think it is a piece of crap because it is cracking; but I disagree, this manifold has a lot of heat cycles on it and I think it is a relatively good manifold way past it's prime can't expect 100,000 miles out of a hand built race manifold just sayin






With the help from the engine builder at work, he showed me how to flatten the exhaust manifold flange with a gigantic disc sander (diameter larger than the length of the flange). I was about to buy a 6"x48" belt sander after calling machine shops who said they don't deal with stainless steel. 

While I had the manifold off, I installed an NPT bung to accept a EGT probe, I put it on the cylinder 4 runner as it is the hotest running cylinder from my understanding, the EGT is about 1.5" away from the head.





The hotside is buttoned up so the next task was to install the energy suspension rear bushings that I put off for very good reason, the job SUCKS.  I was right.

I soaked it for 24 hours with kroil, then slammed the stuck cam bolt with a mini-sledge, then slammed it with the air hammer at max pressure (with high flow fittings), hit it with the impact (which just rotated the control arm comically).  I then accepted that it needed to be cut so the sawsall was not working bending the blade, the standard grinder with cutoff wheel did not go deep enough, so I ended up using an air powered cutoff wheel (my poor 60 gal compressor). 

Pro-tip: remove the reinforcement panel to give the best access to cut the bolts off.  Also, do not cut the spacer washers, you need to go through the rubber to the inside of the outer spacer washers.



Pro-tip: just pay someone to do the job if you don't have the proper tools.

*I couldn't cut all the way through the bolt, so I had to breaker bar these bolts off.

Fortunately, the passenger side came out with the air hammer method.  Look at that rust.  The rearend lower CA front cam bolts slide out by hand.

[Steelmesh]

Hard to find the lower control arm cam adjusting bolts.  Called the dealer he can't say when they'll come in, SPC is 2 weeks out.  I need to get my alignment done Saturday before the drags.  Looking at junkyards for used bolts 

[Steelmesh]

Got a much needed alignment Saturday after doing the rear suspension bushings, was able to remove the negative camber in the rear so I can use the whole tire now in a straight line. Installed a 4-bar MAP sensor yesterday, did some street tuning and walked up to 41-43 psi boost @ 136F IAT (turbo-only was lower boost higher IAT).  We'll see if that translates to anything on the drag strip...assuming I don't break anything before I run it.

[MattM]

Got a much needed alignment Saturday after doing the rear suspension bushings, was able to remove the negative camber in the rear so I can use the whole tire now in a straight line. Installed a 4-bar MAP sensor yesterday, did some street tuning and walked up to 41-43 psi boost @ 136F IAT (turbo-only was lower boost higher IAT).  We'll see if that translates to anything on the drag strip...assuming I don't break anything before I run it.

How does it feel to you though...Does it seem to hit harder or smoother than when you were just turbo?

[Steelmesh]

How does it feel to you though...Does it seem to hit harder or smoother than when you were just turbo?

Disclaimer: the car is not done yet, it's a work in progress, and the SC spins slower than the stock speed.  With the setup as of yesterday it doesn't spool the turbo until 4,400 RPM. The smaller 0.63 A/R turbo I was running originally spooled a lot earlier as expected.

[MattM]

When are you planning on putting the smaller pulley on the supercharger?

[Steelmesh]

When are you planning on putting the smaller pulley on the supercharger?

Would be next season, plan is to sell the super damper and get a fluidampr with a P/S pulley so that when I have everything apart I can take care of both the SC pulley/damper upgrades and power steering.  I am done spending money on the car this year unless it's gas or methanol.

[MattM]

Yeah I feel you!  After the diff I'm in the same mode as you!!! Prolly done spending too!!

[Steelmesh]

Made multiple runs at the drag strip last night could not get a clean run.  I have so many excuses it's a joke.  Least worst run was 13.2 at 109, 60ft around 2.1 with lots of wheel spin.  I am going to continue to push forward with developing this project, so hang tight for now I may try to run one last time.

[TomatoSoup]

Least worst run was 13.2 at 109, 60ft around 2.1 with lots of wheel spin.  I am going to continue to push forward with developing this project, so hang tight for now I may try to run one last time.

Do I hear those magic words: "World's First AWD Solstice Conversion"?

 

[MattM]

Made multiple runs at the drag strip last night could not get a clean run.  I have so many excuses it's a joke.  Least worst run was 13.2 at 109, 60ft around 2.1 with lots of wheel spin.  I am going to continue to push forward with developing this project, so hang tight for now I may try to run one last time.

Hell...That's not bad with all the lag you are getting!  If that turbo ain't spooling until 4,400 rpms due to the sc not spinning enough.  That's not bad at all!

[Steelmesh]

Do I hear those magic words: "World's First AWD Solstice Conversion"?

 

I was thinking about a hybrid conversion, all you got to do is relocate the front coilover to put motors there to drive the existing splined front hubs.

[assquatch20]

Okay the AWD comment was the final straw, I had to register and let you guys know I hope to do something very similar to this in a Chevette I've got laying around, one of these days. Twincharged AWD probably with an IRS is the dream. A T56 would be great. I can't fabricate at all though, so who knows if I'll ever be able to do it all. Regardless it's been great reading this thread and seeing it develop. Can't wait to see what it's capable of.

[Steelmesh]

Okay the AWD comment was the final straw, I had to register and let you guys know I hope to do something very similar to this in a Chevette I've got laying around, one of these days. Twincharged AWD probably with an IRS is the dream. A T56 would be great. I can't fabricate at all though, so who knows if I'll ever be able to do it all. Regardless it's been great reading this thread and seeing it develop. Can't wait to see what it's capable of.

Like this but a Chevette is what I imagine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQRlVNxNTzY

[assquatch20]

That would be rad but I was actually aiming to use a 2.0, maybe starting with a LK9. The idea is something like a Delta S4 meets a Quattro, some kinda Group B thing. Pretty much anything will fit in a Chevette with the know-how and effort.

[DeepBlueGXP]

That would be rad but I was actually aiming to use a 2.0, maybe starting with a LK9. The idea is something like a Delta S4 meets a Quattro, some kinda Group B thing. Pretty much anything will fit in a Chevette with the know-how and effort.

learned how to drive stick on a chevette in 1980

[Steelmesh]

I wonder if anyone has swapped a T-56 or TR-6060 into an Ecotec powered kappa car.  Looks like a TR-6060 from 2010+ Camaros has a 33" shifter location, about what I measured on the AR-5. 

Ecotec adapter bellhousing: https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/chevrolet/parts/RM-7042

I'd be half-way to an LS swap

[Sol Asylum]

I wonder if anyone has swapped a T-56 or TR-6060 into an Ecotec powered kappa car.  Looks like a TR-6060 from 2010+ Camaros has a 33" shifter location, about what I measured on the AR-5. 

Ecotec adapter bellhousing: https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/chevrolet/parts/RM-7042

I'd be half-way to an LS swap

Talk to DDM, you could also do a forum search I know it was talked about here a while back.

[Steelmesh]

Talk to DDM, you could also do a forum search I know it was talked about here a while back.

Found info on the DDM T56 swap kit when it was out:
https://web.archive.org/web/20150919223916/http://www.ddmworks.com/T56-Conversion-for-SolsticeSky-by-DDMWorks_p_311.html

http://www.kappaperformance.com/forum/index.php?topic=9534.0


Looks like they used their regular DDM clutch kit, so I wonder if the T56 input shaft is same spline and same pilot bearing as the kappa car, that would make things more simple.  Mounting the trans and driveshafts are easy, the challenge in my mind right now is figuring out the shifter location, input shaft, bell housing adapter, clutch stack, and doing it all as cheap as possible.

[Steelmesh]

Measured the AR-5 input shaft:
- 26-spline, 1.125" diameter
- 0.590" pilot diameter
- 0.610" pilot stick out past bell housing flange


Looks like I need to work with the T-56 transmission since it is 26 spline 1.125" diameter with a 0.590" pilot.  I found an LT1 T-56 near me, looks like the internet is saying the LT1 T-56 is longer.  That brings up a thought that maybe I can install the LS bellhousing onto the LT1 trans, and build an adapter plate where the longer LT1 will compensate for the adapter plate thickness. This would be less expensive than the quick time bellhousing in theory.  Pure speculation here I don't know if this is a thing.