Author Topic: WR3 Build long in the making (Read 29969 times)

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #25 on:** January 03, 2018, 11:48:28 AM »

I pulled it without removing the torque arm. It was pretty straight forward. You do have to take off the front brace and radiator, but my a/c is still hooked up! I also dropped the front of the car about 6in lower than the rear, then pulled the whole assembly out at a shallow angle.

If I do this again, Im d/c'ing the a/c. That condenser made it dicey.

ironman69 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 03, 2018, 01:54:10 PM »

Hi I have a question I want a bolt of timing chain and I need help, I have a Opel Gt 2.0T same Saturn Sky.
I saw in the post these two bolts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chain-Upper-Guide-Bolt-FIX-GM-Saab-Saturn-Ecotec-2-0-2-2-2-4L-/152569239814?vxp=mtr
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-86802-917-954.aspx
which would be the best choice for me, one costs twice than the other and both seems the same bolts

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #27 on:** January 03, 2018, 04:47:56 PM »

As far as Ive seen with these motors, any money spent on higher quality hardened timing components is 100% worth it.

Steelmesh · « **Reply #28 on:** January 04, 2018, 09:57:34 AM »

Quote from: ironman69 on January 03, 2018, 01:54:10 PM

Hi I have a question I want a bolt of timing chain and I need help, I have a Opel Gt 2.0T same Saturn Sky.
I saw in the post these two bolts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chain-Upper-Guide-Bolt-FIX-GM-Saab-Saturn-Ecotec-2-0-2-2-2-4L-/152569239814?vxp=mtr
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-86802-917-954.aspx
which would be the best choice for me, one costs twice than the other and both seems the same bolts

According to Dorman part picker on their website, this does not fit a 2006 Solstice. I got the ebay one from Havok ordered, that Dorman piece is probably imported. The Havok part also goes with a hex head, instead of a hex key. Another difference is the Dorman part uses an aluminum sealing ring versus an o-ring with the Havok part. As far as which is better, I'm not sure...but for sure they are both better than what came out of the factory.

Steelmesh · « **Reply #29 on:** January 04, 2018, 10:03:45 AM »

Quote from: XplosivePlushToy on January 02, 2018, 04:45:55 PM

Pictures

At the front of the driveshaft here, in the tunnel, did it happen to sling a bunch of grease in this area? It almost looks like it in this picture. A while back when I swapped a driveshaft, I noticed a perfect line of the most nasty grease aligned perfectly with the surface that the driveshaft CV touches the output yoke, so it sprayed this stuff up onto the NVH blanket and on my car the trans mount bracket, in a perfect circle around the output yoke. I assumed the source was the CV int grease. Wondering if this is a common...

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #30 on:** January 04, 2018, 12:10:40 PM »

These pictures are too large to be able to see.

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #31 on:** January 04, 2018, 01:19:34 PM »

Quote from: Sol Asylum on January 04, 2018, 12:10:40 PM

These pictures are too large to be able to see.

Really? They display perfectly on my phone and computers

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #32 on:** January 04, 2018, 01:21:47 PM »

No there was no grease. The staining was just oil from my gloves.

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #33 on:** January 04, 2018, 02:19:11 PM »

On my work computer here is what it looks like, I scaled the image down so it wasn't such a large file resolution kind of sucks but I think you will get the idea.

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #34 on:** January 04, 2018, 04:02:16 PM »

Holy crap! Thats gigantic! I upload and post using imgur so they should direct link if that helps at all.

EDIT: Nevermind.

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #35 on:** January 04, 2018, 05:44:18 PM »

What in the hell is this liquid?! Thats the cam housing if the hpfp. Smells like gas and oil but looks like italian dressing.

Steelmesh · « **Reply #36 on:** January 05, 2018, 09:26:12 AM »

Kinda looks like condensation buildup like what you see under the oil cap. Like this spot here is in the far back corner of the engine and maybe needs a heat soaked engine to clear up this gunk.

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #37 on:** January 05, 2018, 10:46:11 AM »

The motor did sit for 2 years. Possible i suppose.

Anyway, heads came off last night. Cylinders look good as do the pistons surprisingly.

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #38 on:** January 07, 2018, 04:16:37 AM »

Engine is now nothing more than a thousand pieces. I did find a broken timing guide on the intake side balance shaft, and an oil squirter was missing on cylinder 3, but that might have been a casualty of the disassembly. Ill post pics tomorrow.

The block, crank girdle, and oil pan go to the machine shop tues for the bore and hone and a spa day in an aluminum-friendly hot tank. Hopefully itll be done by fri, and I should have time to build the new heads before shes done.

Between the interior makeover, brake work, and engine bay cleaning, theres still a lot to do.

If there was ever a moment where I stopped and wondered if I bit off more than I can chew, it was tonight, staring at a giant pile of (labeled and organized but still overwhelming) bolts and bearings and God knows what.

Edit: pictures

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #39 on:** January 07, 2018, 11:28:42 AM »

Keep going!!!!!

This is a great read!

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #40 on:** January 07, 2018, 03:20:38 PM »

Im sure my neighbors loved the 3am impact wrenching!

Steelmesh · « **Reply #41 on:** January 09, 2018, 06:46:24 PM »

Quote from: XplosivePlushToy on January 07, 2018, 04:16:37 AM

The removed image from quote:

Interesting note the LNF has a semi-counter weighted crankshaft while the LE5 has a fully counter weighted crankshaft.

LE5 2.4:

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #42 on:** January 10, 2018, 04:46:20 PM »

Is anyone running an LT1 fuel pump? Ive been talking to a few cobalt guys and it seems these little things, when combined with the Opel injectors, really alleviate our fueling problems.

From what I understand, the stocker maxes at 15mpa and the LT1 pump can deliver up to 20? New LT1 HPFPs are cheaper than the LNF pumps too. Im gonna give it a try and Ill follow up with results.

In other news, the motor went to the machine shop today. She should be all kinds of pretty when I get her back. And bored out, of course.

Sly Bob · « **Reply #43 on:** January 10, 2018, 04:53:55 PM »

It's great that things are under way. Was going to ask why all the oil on the engine but you answered that question in your first post. All the best.

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #44 on:** January 10, 2018, 09:41:45 PM »

This build is gonna kill me...

LT1 hpfp is in the mail now, along with adapter plate. This should be fun! The whole deal only cost a little more than a new LNF hpfp.

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #45 on:** January 12, 2018, 01:24:18 PM »

New zzp head is disassembled. Removing valves sucks. A lot. Off to the machine shop to join the block to make room for .5 oversized valves!

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #46 on:** January 16, 2018, 05:50:16 PM »

Things are a bit slow at the moment due to the block and heads being at the machine shop, but I am going to try ti tackle the brake rotors today.

On the plus side, my LT1 fuel pump and adapter kit from JNR cobalt arrived today! This thing is massive!

Steelmesh · « **Reply #47 on:** January 17, 2018, 10:14:22 AM »

I noticed the spring compressor on your bench, that type is not ideal for an OHC. The locking c-clamp style with the special tool/detail at the end with windows to access the locks may make it easier. Can make your own end, I've used steel conduit and chopped it up.

But hey, as long as the cat gets skinned no one cares

XplosivePlushToy · « **Reply #48 on:** January 17, 2018, 01:11:46 PM »

Yeah it took a bit to figure out how to make it work. I still had to use an 18mm socket to depress the spring. I bought an overhead mounted compressor for the install. The official KM one is like 130 but a universal was a lot cheaper, and Im cheap. That was money spent on a bore gauge and piston ring grinding wheel.

Steelmesh · « **Reply #49 on:** January 17, 2018, 05:30:58 PM »

Quote from: XplosivePlushToy on January 17, 2018, 01:11:46 PM

Yeah it took a bit to figure out how to make it work. I still had to use an 18mm socket to depress the spring. I bought an overhead mounted compressor for the install. The official KM one is like 130 but a universal was a lot cheaper, and Im cheap. That was money spent on a bore gauge and piston ring grinding wheel.

DIY is great, the best justification to buy specialty tools

I like the stuff pays for itself (or pays you) the first time you use it. I think the cost of a valve spring compressor is less than the labor for an engine shop to do the same job.

News:

Author Topic: WR3 Build long in the making (Read 29969 times)