Topic: Least Expensive Way to Add About 20HP

[CarolinaSolstice]

Hi all.....

Just bought a 2007 2.4 manual with only 51,000 miles....like New condition one owner garage kept.....
Would like to add about 20-25 HP or so...nothing crazy.....on a tight budget.

What performance mods would YOU do if it was your car with limited $$$??

Thanks!
Jerry

[Steelmesh]

Welcome to the forum! I'm curious of this too, the cost.  This is in my opinion (I'm a boosted 2.4 guy) and hope experienced members can chime in with their real world experience tuning the 2.4 N/A engine because now it looks scary after putting this all together.

Estimated cost range summing the 5 upgrades below for a real life +20-25 whp: $1,675-1,850 shopping the two popular kappa dealers. This assumes you're the person bolting the parts on and flashing your tune with the rented cable (you don't need to tune, just flash the ECU).  Looks like you're in the Carolinas, so I assume you're near sea level which would help achieve your goal for sure.

1) Engine Re-calibration for the following parts a.k.a. Tune $275
http://www.ddmworks.com/Trifecta-Tune-UpdateUpgrade-SolsticeSky_p_626.html

2) Header $355
http://www.ddmworks.com/SolsticeSky-NA-Header-by-Solo-Performance_p_123.html

3) Performance Cat $275-325
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php/werks-racing-le5-kappa-high-flow-cat-p-1293
http://www.ddmworks.com/24L-SOLO-NA-High-flow-catalytic-converter-by-Solo-Performance_p_388.html

4) Catback Exhaust System $550-600
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php/solstice-magnaflow-cat-back-exhaust-system-p-920
http://www.ddmworks.com/Solstice-NA-24L-Single-Exhaust-by-Solo-Performance-_p_124.html

5) Intake $220-300
http://www.ddmworks.com/DDMWorks-24L-NA-Cold-Air-intake-for-Solstice-Sky_p_655.html
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php/aem-cold-air-aluminum-intake-polished-solsticesky-24l-p-1266


Camshafts are complicated but may alone achieve your goal on stock components; assuming someone else to does all the work, maybe $2200-2500 for parts, installation, and a dyno tune.

[CarolinaSolstice]

Hmmmm...Thanks for the reply....looks like I'll be leaving her stock! LOL.......she does have a "drop in" K&N...I know, doesn't do squat for performance.
I'm thinking of trying the CAI...

[Steelmesh]

Hmmmm...Thanks for the reply....looks like I'll be leaving her stock! LOL.......she does have a "drop in" K&N...I know, doesn't do squat for performance.
I'm thinking of trying the CAI...

If you want to upgrade your car I say do it even if it doesn't make your car into a racecar. The CAI will make some engine sounds and obviously the exhaust system will make your car sound cool, so who cares man do it if you think these things are cool.

Low capital expense with a good Cost-per-HP value is a dream with a little NA. Weight reduction would be at the top of the list to make your NA car accelerate faster.  You want least expensive, but the best value regarding Cost-per-HP will be boost or nitrous oxide. 

Nitrous = +100 bhp for $1,200 = $12 per hp gain
Boost kit = +150 bhp for $5,000 = $33 per hp gain
Header = +7 bhp for $355 = $50 per hp gain
CAI = +2 bhp for $220 = $110 per hp gain
Cat-back = +4.5 bhp for $550 = $122 per hp gain
CAI/Header/Cat/Catback/Tune = +22.5 bhp for $1700 = $76 per hp gain
Camshaft diy installed = +22.5 bhp for $1000 = $44 per hp gain, might be worse if my hp estimate is wrong

[Critterman]

Been there done that.  Dyno'd stock 143 at the wheels, did the air intake, dyno'd 145, exhaust 146, tuned ecm 153.  Was part of the testing program for DDM superchargers.  Stage I, II, and III.  Still running stage III slightly detuned running 294 hp 297 tq.   I had the engine built with carrillo rods, ceramic top piston, super tech valves and springs. 

[Steelmesh]

Been there done that.  Dyno'd stock 143 at the wheels, did the air intake, dyno'd 145, exhaust 146, tuned ecm 153.  Was part of the testing program for DDM superchargers.  Stage I, II, and III.  Still running stage III slightly detuned running 294 hp 297 tq.   I had the engine built with carrillo rods, ceramic top piston, super tech valves and springs.

Thanks for sharing!

Back of a napkin analysis begin:
Stock 143 whp dyno number with factory rating of 173 bhp estimates a drivetrain loss and dyno error of about ((173-143)/173) = -17.3%

bhp delta estimates with -17.3% drivetrain loss:
Air intake = (145/0.827) = 175.3 bhp = +2.3 bhp with air intake only, +1% hp
add Exhaust: (146/0.827) = 176.5 bhp = +3.5 bhp with intake/exhaust, +2% hp
add Tune: (153/0.827) = 185.0 bhp = +12 bhp with intake/exhaust/tune, +7% hp

Looks like we need cams, porting/matching and a header to make the 20-25 bhp based on your experience.  Of course 15:1 compression E85 could double that with rods/pistons to keep it alive.

Stage III boosted + built bottom + valvetrain mods = (294/0.827) = 356 bhp = +183 bhp with boost, +105% hp, that's totally unfair and why we do it 


Critterman, did you like the sound of the exhaust system on the NA 2.4 though?

[Steelmesh]

Hmmmm...Thanks for the reply....looks like I'll be leaving her stock! LOL.......she does have a "drop in" K&N...I know, doesn't do squat for performance.
I'm thinking of trying the CAI...

Looking at crittermans numbers, you should consider the tune for the best value performance gain and the intake/exhaust for underhood-bling and sound gains.  You could probably feel the +7% gain if you did all mods at once (intake/exhaust/tune), but not really the +2% from the intake/exhaust alone.

[Critterman]

I have a custom Solo exhaust center exit. 

[Gentleman Jack]

The tune will give the best overall improvement for the lowest dollar.  Max power numbers don't change drastically, but drivability changes very noticeably.  Power across the range improvements are more important at that level that max power anyway.  Plus, it is quick and easy and can be saved up for without any other items required.  The intake and exhaust are only really capitalized on with a tune, so by themselves, they won't do much for long.  Those smart learning ECMs will realize more are is coming in and command lower fuel / timing to compensate.  Whop bam boom, back to stock numbers with some more noise. 

Tune first if looking for power dynamics
suspension / bracing second if looking for over all driving dynamics
tires - depends on what is on there.  if stock - this should be PRIORITY #1.
brakes - get a really good set of pads and fresh / refreshed rotors, plus at 50K, it's time to change your brake fluid.

When all that is done, let me know.

GJ

[Sol Asylum]

Easy way to understand what GJ is saying is to look at the Dyno curve and compare the areas under the curve.  Even though the peak HP might be the same the one with the larger area will be more fun to drive.

[PonchoP]

Have you researched the "Sprint Booster"? Although it doesn't add any power it certainly changes the throttle response tremendously and makes the car a lot more fun to drive! It has several other advantages that you will find out about in the research. There are other products on the market but none as good. It costs about $325 and can be installed in about an hour and doesn't void any GM warranties or damage the vehicle in any way.

[Dave@DDMworks]

Have you researched the "Sprint Booster"? Although it doesn't add any power it certainly changes the throttle response tremendously and makes the car a lot more fun to drive! It has several other advantages that you will find out about in the research. There are other products on the market but none as good. It costs about $325 and can be installed in about an hour and doesn't void any GM warranties or damage the vehicle in any way.

In the tune the throttle response can be changed to do the same thing the Sprintbooster is doing, but with the tune you also get the benefits of the timing advance, air/fuel correction, cam timing changes, etc. for not much more money.

[Uranium-238]

If it was my car, even with a limited budget I'd relegate it to "project" status and swap in an aluminum block 5.3...assuming you have the knowledge/tools to do that on your own.

Anything else is throwing good money away these days...

[Steelmesh]

The Torqamp electric supercharger added maybe +35-40 whp in the Cleetus McFarland Cobalt on the dyno.  He did a second video with twin electric superchargers and made like +90 whp.  They claim 4 minutes of boost out of the battery pack and a 500w charger for when you're off boost, both are a green flag in my book that it is likely a legitimate product because the specifications are realistic.


Okay I questioned my statement and nerded out:
I don't know if its a 15kW motor, it's a guess. 15,000W at 4 minutes is 15000*(4/60) = 1000 Wh or 1 kWh of energy expediture at 15,000 watts discharge rate for 4 minutes. 

1000 Wh / 48 volts = 20.8 Ah, this is the battery capacity needed at 48 volts.  If they are pushing the battery limits then we'll say they are using 90% of the capacity (where a long life EV battery is more like 80% of the rated capacity).  So 20.8 / 90% = 23.1 Ah

18650 Lithium cylindrical cell is 4.1V at 3.5 Ah.  If the battery pack specification is 48V at 23.1 Ah, then it's probably 12S (12*4.1V = 49V) and then you'd need 7P (23.1 Ah /3.5 Ah).

A 12S7P battery pack would have 84 [18650] cylindrical cells.  At an aggressive 10C discharge rate, it would be capable of about 230 amps sustained, with the 18650 cells.  Eighty-four 18650 cells would fit inside the Torqamp power pack unit. One issue is they might be pushing it harder than 10C or they have some more capacity.