Author Topic: Kappa Specific Sound Deadening Kits (Read 164148 times)

TecSolOnt · « **Reply #75 on:** November 09, 2009, 09:23:33 PM »

Here is a pic of the foam on the rear wall, I see Don updated his note on Page 1 of this thread mentioning I had gotten this to work. Where I marked the X on the upper portion of the pic we found it had to be cut out when the panel went in so you could exclude this. The storage box on the rear wall would not allow enough room for the foam and vinyl. Outside of that we found you could put both foam and vinyl on the rest of the back wall as shown, the foam cannot go as high as the vinyl as you can see. We used outdoor sheathing tape to hold it in place , that's the red stuff, before installing the vinyl. My subwoofer is a JVC slimline aftermarket mounted behind the seat on the wall so there was no need to cut the foam or vinyl there in this car.

odiaz · « **Reply #76 on:** November 15, 2009, 11:24:52 PM »

Thanks for the excellent write up and pictures guys. I copied them all into a single document which can be found here:

http://www.cherod.com/solstice/HowTos/SoundDeadening.htm

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #77 on:** November 19, 2009, 06:58:44 PM »

Suggestion for a new area to do...

I used MLV scraps left over from the rest of the car to add sound deadening around the shifter. Easy to do and seems to cut down on the "sewing machine" and shift-clank noises from the transmission.

Just remove the shift boot and boomerang and cut two pieces of MLV to go vertically either side of the shifter, with rectangular notches cut out around the 'shift pattern' (see red dashed line areas in the photo below). Bend and slide those in place on top of the white cotton-wool stuff that is there. Then cut cross pieces (see green dotted line areas) to go above and below the shifter and use your HH-66 Vinyl Cement to glue these down on top of the vertical pieces to hold it all together. Note the blue arrow indicates a horizontal metal tab that sicks out from the side... I placed the right vertical piece below this tab, between it and the cup holder 'box'. Then I glued the top cross piece ABOVE the tab to hold the vertical piece off the cup holder - hopefully to avoid putting any pressure on the fragile plastic. Tip: I suggest you cut and use pieces of cardboard as templates to find the sizes of the MLV pieces to use. I didn't take photos along the way, so can't show you the exact piece/sizes I cut. Sorry.

After this is done, I cut a piece of foam with a hole in the center and pushed it down over the shift rod. This moves with the shifter and covers the rectangular hole left in the MLV. It may be better to use more MLV for that piece instead of (or as well as) the foam - not sure. If you don't have a JPM shifter, you'll either have to remove the whole shift rod & boot assembly first, or cut and glue the moving piece around the rod.

Then replace the boomerang and shift knob/boot, and away you go.

Have fun!

spicy3480 · « **Reply #78 on:** November 21, 2009, 10:05:22 PM »

I finished my trunk today! What a difference!! The exhaust sound has totally moved to the rear of the car. It was also noticeably cooler in the trunk! The hardest part is getting the trunk carpet back in snug...I have it about 95% right now, and will play a little more tomorrow. Car stereo still sounds amazing! Road noise and rattles are gone!

LiquidPT · « **Reply #79 on:** April 08, 2010, 04:12:51 PM »

Hrmm. Got my materials now. Did a writeup ever get done for the back wall and trunk? Also, some of the pics above are broken...

While I'm at it, did DBG ever writeup the trunk of Dee's coupe? I thought so, but can't seem to find it

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #80 on:** April 08, 2010, 04:50:53 PM »

I'll look for it

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #81 on:** April 08, 2010, 04:51:43 PM »

http://www.kappaperformance.com/forum/index.php?topic=3171.0

Here you go

Rudeboy · « **Reply #82 on:** April 08, 2010, 04:59:03 PM »

Quote from: LiquidPT on April 08, 2010, 04:12:51 PM

Hrmm. Got my materials now. Did a writeup ever get done for the back wall and trunk? Also, some of the pics above are broken...

While I'm at it, did DBG ever writeup the trunk of Dee's coupe? I thought so, but can't seem to find it

I've got copies of Bryan's photos if they can't be found. I included a sheet (maybe two, can't remember) of 1/8" CCF since so many people have had trouble fttting 1/4" in the trunk.

Dirkdaddy · « **Reply #83 on:** April 08, 2010, 06:40:53 PM »

Quote from: DragonSolGXP on October 29, 2009, 03:38:01 PM

I have an unrelated question, but a since you did this I thought I'd ask. Last summer I hit a brick and it made a slight dent underneath... from what I can tell it is just behind the passenger seat towards the back right around that big drain plug.

My question is, is the floor hollow? In other words, if I removed the rear seat and looked under the carpet, would I be able to see the dent and tap it out?

The floor is not like an old car you may be used to, its dual layer. I know, I had to cut the floor of a wrecked one. Notice the seat studs are not visible under the car. There's about 1/4" of space or less between the panels, which probably helps noise and chassis stiffness.

----

On another angle, has anyone documented with a DB meter how much reduction in road noise was accomplished? This thread is very interesting to me. I like a quiet car, but this is a convertible.... ? I had bought a box of some well rated foil backed sticky sound dampening material (not dynomatt though) and a roller applicator, and I was prepared to apply this to my car, but your thread here makes me wonder about the other products available and application. Thanks for the posting, very interesting.

NormSky · « **Reply #84 on:** April 08, 2010, 07:55:09 PM »

Dirk, depends what to suppress. My C5 Corvette(2000) used MLV with cell foam attached and a balsa wood floor, but no CLD suppression like most passenger cars. The CLD tiles will suppress the lower frequency best and highlight your Monsoon base the best. I think the foam helps in similar instance you'd wear foam ear plugs. All depends on what you want hidden but there is a weight disadvantage if you want a mute car inside.

Norm

spicy3480 · « **Reply #85 on:** April 08, 2010, 09:29:08 PM »

I have me entire interior and trunk deadened using this kit, and it was well worth it. The stereo sounds more robust and defined, and the road noise is virtually gone. I would say it is a good 10-15% reduction in noise, but giving a percentage is difficult. You really have to hear the difference. Deadening the doors made a huge difference, as they are hollow shells to begin with.

The OEM sound dampening that is glued to the floors was easy to peel off and garbage to begin with.

Critterman · « **Reply #86 on:** April 09, 2010, 09:42:06 AM »

We are planning on doing my car at the mod meet. All the material is there taking up room in Joe's garage (sure hope that isn't why he had to build the shed). Anyway if we get it done there will be an opertunity for picts and right up for the trunk.

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #87 on:** April 09, 2010, 12:24:32 PM »

Sure did, wait to you see the storage fees

Sly Bob · « **Reply #88 on:** April 09, 2010, 08:39:46 PM »

Oh Oh...

Critterman · « **Reply #89 on:** April 09, 2010, 10:31:54 PM »

that's alrieght i will find out tomorrow and adjust my supervisor fees accordanly

DickW · « **Reply #90 on:** April 10, 2010, 07:48:23 AM »

Quote from: Critterman on April 09, 2010, 10:31:54 PM

that's alrieght i will find out tomorrow and adjust my supervisor fees accordanly

Critter, Retired Navy CPOs do not need supervision. They do the supervising.

Critterman · « **Reply #91 on:** April 10, 2010, 10:40:03 PM »

Trust me Joe does

NormSky · « **Reply #92 on:** April 12, 2010, 10:10:01 AM »

I just Dynamat Superlite vibration dampner to the whole inside door skin and back wall. The vibration is what I think fatigues me on long rides or rough roads, especially after this winter. It really toned down the frame and almost makes the car feel slow as there is no cacophony going on. Small road imperfections are now small thudding and DFCO with catless Kappasphere muffler is now barely noticeable kicking in. Car almost feels Germanic and only $100 for two packs and maybe 6 lbs added. Overall noise level is down slightly, but noticeable.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #93 on:** April 13, 2010, 01:36:02 PM »

Quote from: jonymac (From the 'other' forum...)

Did the CLDs and the rubber sheeting under the hood mat. Deadens the vibrations from the hood area - defintely didn't hear any ticking this winter...

Don, will you add a "kit" for the hood at the upcoming MMM7? I really like the idea of less rattle and less 'tick'. (Pretty Please?)

Rudeboy · « **Reply #94 on:** April 13, 2010, 01:57:30 PM »

Can you post a photo of the existing hood liner?

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #95 on:** April 13, 2010, 04:05:05 PM »

OK, went out to the garage and took one. Measurements in inches are superimposed... is this good enuf?

Note: the liner is completely asymmetric, and the 'ticker' (fuel pump) is roughly below where I put the 58" text, i.e. where the liner is tallest.

[attachment=1]

Rudeboy · « **Reply #96 on:** April 13, 2010, 04:46:57 PM »

Quote from: TomatoSoup on April 13, 2010, 04:05:05 PM

OK, went out to the garage and took one. Measurements in inches are superimposed... is this good enuf?

Note: the liner is completely asymmetric, and the 'ticker' (fuel pump) is roughly below where I put the 58" text, i.e. where the liner is tallest.

[attachment=1]

Very nice. It think there is going to be an issue fitting MLV behind that liner, but I'll bring material to try. Are you going to be there on Saturday?

Rudeboy · « **Reply #97 on:** April 13, 2010, 04:57:24 PM »

Is that the stock liner? I don't remember John's looking like that. It might be better to replace it. I have fiberglass reinforced foil faced MLV that is intended for applications like this.

Treeman · « **Reply #98 on:** April 13, 2010, 05:21:20 PM »

You know, I don't know if this will do the trick. As Soup says, the culprit is the high-pressure fuel pump. It sits right next to the firewall, under the driver's wiper blade. I don't think the sound is coming up through the hood but from the upper dash - maybe even the defroster vent. As a matter of fact, I think it is quieter from outside the car by the hood than from the driver's seat. I also have the improved foam insulator GM came up with and it helps...some. If we can figure out how to kill that sound, I'd love it.

Don, you're in the Baltimore area? I'm not far away. I could drive up and let you have a look and listen prior to the Mod Meet.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #99 on:** April 13, 2010, 05:31:46 PM »

Yes, I'll be there on the Saturday and yes, that's the stock liner. Thanks, Don.

(Where's Jonymac when you need him?)

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Author Topic: Kappa Specific Sound Deadening Kits (Read 164148 times)