Author Topic: Solstice Coupe Tear down - adding sound deadening (Read 22035 times)

DeepBlueGXP · « **on:** October 24, 2009, 09:37:45 PM »

Tonight I started a tear down of the trunk of Dee's coupe to put in sound deadening from Don. The Solo Performance RCD with highflow CAT generates alot more noise and drone on a coupe then the convertible due to the coupe being open in the back.

Normally I'll attach photos directly but I want a large number of files to use so I'll be using PhotoBucket.

I started by removing the plugs in the carpet for the netting. The large ones are press on, the 4 smaller ones are screw on.

Remove the air pump. Note, you can't service the tire while traveling faster than 55MPH

Carefully lift the plastic cover over the rear latch, there are 4 press in clips that hold this in. Then disconnect the trunk light.

Reach in and pull down and out on the rear section of the carpet to clear the threaded posts for the netting.(both sides) then pull out the carpet from under the plastic and remove the aft carpet section.

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #1 on:** October 24, 2009, 09:38:19 PM »

XM Module Location is directly on the back wall

The main part of the carpet sits under the cup holder lip. I tried to pull that portion out without removing it but it was too difficult.
I then commenced pulling the back section out behind the seats. I attempted to use the same methods that I used on the convertible.

The door sills are harder to remove and install. (I found out why and I'll explain in a moment) I removed the sills. Then I started to remove the rear molding that housed the speaker. I couldn't remove it. It was clipped in somehow to the back part.

To see that section I had to remove the rear top cup holder section. With the back window opened, I reached one arm in the back window and one around the front of the B pillar and grabbed the cup holder and lifted. It pops out fairly easily. I did the same on the other side and removed the complete piece from the car.

I then went back to removing the 2nd and larger carpet piece. Reach in the back window and pull the forward section toward you, be careful as there are small rectangular pressboard pieces glued in on the sides, then fold the carpet in half to remove throught the window.

There are two extruded foam panels that are loosely fit in the sides of the trunk. Remove these. I placed industrial velcro on them to prevent them from vibrating/moving once re-installed.

Looking at the back wall of the trunk, you can plainly see the XM module.

Now you can see the complete NAK3D trunk which is a molded plastic liner, one piece. The silver cover that was familiar in the vert covers the fuel tank. I performed a tap test around the complete trunk and I only had a slight sound difference/vibration on the fuel tank cover. The rest of the trunk seems solid but appears to be able to pass/radiate sound so I decided to cover most of the trunk with the rectangle tiles. I also place one complete piece on the fuel tank cover, leaving the screws exposed.

I removed the paper with the rivets being certified, not good sound deadening practice

Large carpet piece removed showing the two foam extrusions in the location they are installed in the car

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #2 on:** October 24, 2009, 09:38:46 PM »

I still didn't have access to removed the back panel yet. I need to remove the molding on the B Pillar, but, that portion needed the top of the B pillar trim to be removed. I used the same procedure for the top as I did for the cup holder. It is best to have a second person help with this piece as it will fall and potentially become damaged as it's removed.

Once that is removed, you can now remove the two B pillar side moldings. This part must be removed by pulling towards the center of the car. These pieces had plugs like the back section and plastic clips that sometimes fall out. There is also a slotted plastic tab that faces the side of the car. When inserting the side molding, verify the tab is installed by trying to lift the rear section.

Now that I have all the molding off I can see why the side piece wouldn't come out. There is a metal clip that connects the side speaker molding to the rear back panel. I removed one side only. The clip was pried out using a standard screwdriver. Then reach beneath the lower side section by the carpet and pull out the panel, the rest of the panel MUST be pulled towards the front of the car. There are a series of clips that all face aft and plug into the rear panel. Then disconnect the speaker harness and remove the panel. Also note that the panel no longer has the addional two clips that attaches to the side of the car as the placement is replaced by the hardtop coupe mounts pictures. The panel has the tabs missing, they appear to be broken off but don't be alarmed. This is why the sill is hard to remove. There is pressure towards the front of the car since there is only one clip to the side and the rest are facing aft.

The clip

On the photo, the arrow points to where the clip is installed, one on each side of the car

Once I had all the trim panels removed, I pulled off the center console and then popped off the rear panel with the passenger side speaker enclosure still attached.

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #3 on:** October 24, 2009, 09:38:53 PM »

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #4 on:** October 24, 2009, 09:45:47 PM »

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #5 on:** October 24, 2009, 09:46:05 PM »

Since Deedle has the RCD exhaust from Solo, I used the heavy duty gray pad in the lower part of the trunk (right over the exhaust. I used a full sheet and glued it to the liner. I then covered the complet trunk in the 1/8th inch sound deadening foam. I slit the tops of the screws and pushed the foam down.

I then reinserted the foam extruded pieced and reinstalled the carpet pieces.

If I were to start this project again with what I learned. This is the order I'd remove items.

Top B-pillar panel
Rear cupholder panel
sides b-pillar panels
door sills
Center console
Back panel with speaker enclosures still attached.

1LILNDN · « **Reply #6 on:** October 25, 2009, 12:50:43 AM »

Joe sorry I'm not there I would help . nice pics can't wait for text

LiquidPT · « **Reply #7 on:** October 25, 2009, 01:21:28 AM »

Looking forward to it...

Sly Bob · « **Reply #8 on:** October 25, 2009, 06:24:01 AM »

Quote from: LiquidPT on October 25, 2009, 01:21:28 AM

Looking forward to it...

Yeah me too and I don't even have a coupe!

Rudeboy · « **Reply #9 on:** October 29, 2009, 10:13:35 PM »

You can tell they realized they had a noise problem late in the game because of the amount of foil faced vibration damper on the rear wall. Looks like 3 times as much as the convertible. I'd peel that off and replace it with CLD Tiles for better performance but the real key in this car is going be covering as much of the back wal and behind it with MLV.

I'll be very interested to see how this goes.

1LILNDN · « **Reply #10 on:** October 30, 2009, 09:46:22 PM »

Don ; We did Brians trunk how CLD tiles did you put in that. I know we had to put the foam and MLV in peices and glue it together then getting the carpet back in Brian did the Foot Stomp to work it into place. Did you take any pics of the install?

"This was not a coupe but the Roadster trunk at the MM6"

LiquidPT · « **Reply #11 on:** June 19, 2010, 10:16:19 PM »

When you put it back together, did you have troubles getting the extruded foam pieces to fit? Did you trim them? If so, how. I'm defintely going to need to trim to get my trunk back together...

Now that I look back, you didn't say you covered the trunk in MLV. Did you?

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #12 on:** June 20, 2010, 08:50:28 AM »

I did have some small problems getting the side foam pieces to line up but it took some finagling and it all worked. No problems. I didn't use the shiny silver stuff if that is the MLV

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #13 on:** June 20, 2010, 09:31:14 AM »

There's the CLD tiles (aluminum and tar-sticky with a peel-off backer), the MLV (Mass-Loaded Vinyl) which is the dark-grey thick plastic sheeting. Then there's the new replacement for the MLV which is the silvered sheeting with the criss-cross pattern on it.

TecSolOnt · « **Reply #14 on:** June 20, 2010, 09:43:19 AM »

I have the sound deadener, Solo mach exhaust and found that adding a couple of resonators just before the two tailpipe's actually quieted the car a heckuva lot more than the sound deadener. The resonators are flow thru , don't impact performance and really toned the exhaust down, course I can hear my wife now lol Jeff charged me a very reasonable amount to have these added , I had the car for a year and he suggested this fix, worked great.

LiquidPT · « **Reply #15 on:** June 20, 2010, 11:51:53 AM »

Quote from: TomatoSoup on June 20, 2010, 09:31:14 AM

There's the CLD tiles (aluminum and tar-sticky with a peel-off backer), the MLV (Mass-Loaded Vinyl) which is the dark-grey thick plastic sheeting. Then there's the new replacement for the MLV which is the silvered sheeting with the criss-cross pattern on it.

There's new stuff? What's it's advantage/disadvantage over MLV?

LiquidPT · « **Reply #16 on:** June 20, 2010, 11:53:06 AM »

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on June 20, 2010, 08:50:28 AM

I did have some small problems getting the side foam pieces to line up but it took some finagling and it all worked. No problems. I didn't use the shiny silver stuff if that is the MLV

So, you did use vinyl? Up the sides too?

I'm gonna have to trim my foam to get it even close...

Critterman · « **Reply #17 on:** June 20, 2010, 05:47:47 PM »

The only advantage is that GJ can write and draw on the new stuff

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #18 on:** June 20, 2010, 06:47:07 PM »

Yup. Sure can. I will fly in and perform on site art for a nominal fee. Then you can have a GJ edition Kappa as well!

GJ

LiquidPT · « **Reply #19 on:** June 20, 2010, 08:05:45 PM »

Quote from: Gentleman Jack aka Bubble Gum on June 20, 2010, 06:47:07 PM

Yup. Sure can. I will fly in and perform on site art for a nominal fee. Then you can have a GJ edition Kappa as well!

GJ

Dude, you're a whole lot closer to me than to them, and I could use the support...

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #20 on:** June 20, 2010, 08:36:31 PM »

Quote from: LiquidPT on June 20, 2010, 08:05:45 PM

Dude, you're a whole lot closer to me than to them, and I could use the support...

Careful what you wish for...

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #21 on:** June 20, 2010, 11:17:40 PM »

Quote from: LiquidPT on June 20, 2010, 08:05:45 PM

Dude, you're a whole lot closer to me than to them, and I could use the support...

Liquid,

No problem! My Fee is nothing more than my expenses. Food, lodging, flights and fuel. My work is free and the "GJ Edition" work is totally custom and also free. All you need to supply is all the tools. The last time I tried to fly with a sodering iron, utility knife, screw drivers and pliers... it didn't go so well....

GJ

LiquidPT · « **Reply #22 on:** June 20, 2010, 11:41:38 PM »

Quote from: Gentleman Jack aka Bubble Gum on June 20, 2010, 11:17:40 PM

Liquid,

No problem! My Fee is nothing more than my expenses. Food, lodging, flights and fuel. My work is free and the "GJ Edition" work is totally custom and also free. All you need to supply is all the tools. The last time I tried to fly with a sodering iron, utility knife, screw drivers and pliers... it didn't go so well....

GJ

Thanks for the offer. All I got left is to figure out how to put my trunk back together (PITA!) and the doors and back wall, which should be the easy parts.

ChopTop · « **Reply #23 on:** June 21, 2010, 08:24:35 AM »

Solo Performance RCD What does RCD stand for?

JimmyBaja · « **Reply #24 on:** June 21, 2010, 10:20:22 AM »

RCD:

Rear Center Duals (center exit dual exhaust)

News:

Author Topic: Solstice Coupe Tear down - adding sound deadening (Read 22035 times)