Topic: Plug-n-play NAVI from Motevo

[Gentleman Jack]

tekenaar,

would you quit posting and get the darn thing installed and running so you can give the rest of us a review already?  Jeeze, we've been on pins and needles for two weeks already....

GJ

[tekenaar]

     

It bothers me somewhat that I am having such a hard time finding map updates for this unit. The manufacturer says that you have to go to Navteq but Navteq doesn't list the Motevo.

You might want to give Navteq some time to add Motevo to their list.  It might be that Motevo is a newer brand for Nav systems.  Not sure but haven't seen them around for that long yet.

. . . don't really know how concerned anyone should be about this. To the best of my knowledge, none of the NAVI units ever produced wrote their own proprietary OS or NAVI db access software, they all pretty much use a "portable" Windows subset (small version) for their OS and standardized db (row/column table  lookup) access for the NAVI dbs. Satellite data is presented in a single, common data structure which remains the same when "updated" with additional 'new' mapping info . . .

Since the satellite positioning data structure is the same regardless of where it's downloaded, I don't see why NavTeq updates for any country would be different on any media regardless of whose NAVI system it's updating. NAVI data content is updated with additional new mapping info, but OS, NAVI database structure and decoding/presentation/access programs remain intact as originally provided on each NAVI unit!

BTW, weather has been totally uncooperative about installing mine and with a rear-view camera . . . 

[wspohn]

XM is a pain here... there are trees everywhere! it's the PNW! Heck, the streets are lined with them. I can't get a signal without it cutting out for more than a couple minutes.

I could get it here, but after listening for 3 months and reading all the crap they get up to with your credit card, I decided XM was not something I needed to retain.  Haven't missed it one little bit.

The nav aid would be useful though.

[LiquidPT]

I could get it here, but after listening for 3 months and reading all the crap they get up to with your credit card, I decided XM was not something I needed to retain.  Haven't missed it one little bit.

The nav aid would be useful though.

I don't understand how it works in my garage, but if I drive under some light foliage, it cuts out...

Oh, and I had them send me a bill rather than save my cc info for an autorenew... I won't likely keep it, though it's handy for tuning into a Canucks game...

[tekenaar]

. . . electrical wiring question for any electrical guru out there, maybe even the "unofficial" GM rep here . . .

Here's the wiring diagram of the two (14/16 pin) radio plugs for reference :



The steering wheel control radio buttons - volume up/down, mute and search next/previous - are option UK3 for the Monsoon radio/CD changer. The SW radio/CD control wiring consists of two wires - the SC Control Signal on pin 11 of the 14-pin X2 plug and the 10-Volt Reference on pin 14 of the 16-pin X1 plug.

My understanding is that the SC Control connection is a digital bit stream dependent on which SW button is pushed and is 'plus/minus' referenced around the 10-Volt level sourced from the radio itself.

My actual question concerns that last part . . . is that 10-Volt Reference level indeed sourced at/from the radio?

My replacement Motevo NAVI/DVD radio also has two connections for the SW Controls, one for the SCC Signal (X2 pin 11) and the other listed (and tested) as a "Ground". From this I infer that the Motevo radio SW Control is referenced around "Ground" (0V) rather than the stock radio's "10-Volt Reference" voltage.

The Motevo unit is in and I'm suitably impressed . . . not exactly a plug-and-play installation as always claimed by manufacturers, but nothing that can't be easily resolved with a bit of effort. The Motevo Monsoon sound is awesome! The dulcet tones of Sarah Brightman accompanied me on my first Motevo test-drive in the country on Sunday. BTW, the green radio lighting doesn't go all that badly with the rest of the red dash lighting after dark, IMO!

Hmmm . . . now I just need to get those SW radio controls working and finish the rear-view camera installation. Will post complete, detailed Motevo install with pics in another thread soon. Perhaps a little teaser is in order here . . .



Meanwhile, I'm posting the question here and on the other two Solstice forums and have already called Motevo's site for an answer . . . first to answer gets a "Gold Star/Brownie Point/cookie"!

[DeepBlueGXP]

Looks great so far.  I'm not sure on the 10v reference.  All the prior installs I have done, I believe is used to maintain the programming on the SW interface so when the key is off, the controls don't revert to default.

[tekenaar]

Looks great so far.  I'm not sure on the 10v reference.  All the prior installs I have done, I believe it is used to maintain the programming on the SW interface so, when the key is off, the controls don't revert to default.

Hmmm . . . other than possibly the engine monitoring button, I was not aware that the steering wheel control buttons' functions could be altered to do some alternate rather than their primary 'default' function, i.e. volume up is volume up, mute is mute, etc. Why would you need a reference voltage "to maintain the programming . . . when the key is off" then? 

While I momentarily have your attention, for my rear-view camera hookup I'll be powering that from the 'reverse lights' source voltage. While running the power and video wires back from the radio, I noticed the main wiring harness running along the top of the tranny tunnel and thought about tapping into it directly behind the E-brake handle. According to FSM wiring schematic, it's supposed to be a light green wire feeding the reverse lights. So, do you know if that reverse lights lead is in that wiring harness?

If I can tap into the 'reverse lights' power there, it'll be much easier to check there later if necessary without having to tear anything apart in the rear wheel wells!

[Sly Bob]

The wire for the reverse lights runs under the door sill on the passenger side and continues along the side of the passenger footwell. The wire that you want is a light green one. You will find two in the harness. On my car it was the one that was less shiny than the other. Be sure to test it before making the final connections.

[Carbon Sky]

I agree, I pulled back the wiring loom under the passenger door sill.  In that loom, I found 3 green wires.  I simply probed each of the 3 wires for 12V+ when I shifted into reverse to find it.

[DeepBlueGXP]

Yes, if the steering wheel interface isn't hooked up to the right voltage source, it will loose programming when the key is off. 

Don't hook up the power for the camera to the reverse.  Hook it up to accessories so that when you car is on, you can select the rear view camera at any time. 

Concur with the under the passenger sill for hookup of reverse control of the camera.   Take the parking brake wire from the radio and ground it.  That will allow use of the GPS while driving.

[tekenaar]

. . . thanks, understand what's posted thus far. That "10-Volt Reference" for SWC "memory" on pin 14 of the 16-pin plug, where is that sourced? . . . hopefully not at the stock radio, else you couldn't keep your SWC settings alive on aftermarket radios, right?! 

As to the rear camera "On" voltage, the Motevo NAVI has a specific 12V power lead for "anytime" camera activation selected by "touch-screen" button, but I intend to wire the camera in an "either/or" - car in reverse or selected at touch-screen - configuration with a couple of isolation diodes. Appreciate the comments, multiple opinions allow better solutions, IMO!   

[tekenaar]

. . . everything's hooked up and working except for the SW button programming, which still begs the question about that 10V 'reference' source. Mine won't program, so that voltage must originate in the stock radio. I'll have to call Motevo about that.

Secondly, I can't seem to get the dash panel to fit flush at the HVAC controls, on both sides, sticks up about 1/4". AFAICT, nothing at the back of the controls is keeping it from seating properly, but it's a bit frustrating. Did all the comparison measurements with the original radio and those are the same, i.e. not the problem source. Any ideas, Joe?!

[TomatoSoup]

Secondly, I can't seem to get the dash panel to fit flush at the HVAC controls, on both sides, sticks up about 1/4". AFAICT, nothing at the back of the controls is keeping it from seating properly, but it's a bit frustrating. Did all the comparison measurements with the original radio and those are the same, i.e. not the problem source. Any ideas, Joe?!

Sounds like it might be the positioning pin on the back of the radio (if there is one on the Motevo).  Did you check that it's in the same place and is the same size as the original?  If not (or anyway) maybe you can remove the pin and check-fit without it?

(For reference, I'm talking about the white plastic pin thing at the bottom center in the photo below)

[DeepBlueGXP]

Do you have a soft copy of the installation manual?  Take a couple of photos of the radio protruding.

[tekenaar]

Sounds like it might be the positioning pin on the back of the radio (if there is one on the Motevo).  Did you check that it's in the same place and is the same size as the original?  If not (or anyway) maybe you can remove the pin and check-fit without it?

(For reference, I'm talking about the white plastic pin thing at the bottom center in the photo below)
(Image removed from quote.)

. . . all the plugs are in completely different places on the Montevo unit but I cut all the proper holes inside the 'mounting box' and NAVI unit mounting is not the problem, all the face mounting measurements are identical to the stock radio when Motevo is in place!

The problem appears to be something at the HVAC controls module, particularly at the center 'fan speed' control which gets 'tight' - loses 'clicks' and becomes difficult to turn. I enlarged the hole behind the controls where the electrical cables go significantly to reduce possibility of interference when pushing dash back in place. I'm a bit stumped . . .

[TomatoSoup]

Hmmm.  Might it be that the boomerang face is going in too far (rather than the radio itself protruding too far)?  Maybe the clip holes in the radio surround are not in the right place (back too much).  If so, the climate box might be being pressed against something, causing the problems with the dial.

Otherwise, as DBG says, take a couple of photos and post.

[tekenaar]

. . . all the plugs are in completely different places on the Montevo unit but I cut all the proper holes inside the 'mounting box' and NAVI unit mounting is not the problem, all the face mounting measurements are identical to the stock radio when Motevo is in place!

The problem appears to be something at the HVAC controls module, particularly at the center 'fan speed' control which gets 'tight' - loses 'clicks' and becomes difficult to turn. I enlarged the hole behind the controls where the electrical cables go significantly to reduce possibility of interference when pushing dash back in place. I'm a bit stumped . . .

. . . perhaps this'll help explain somewhat more clearly . . .



. . . as you can see, the Motevo is not the problem . . . at least I don't think so. Plenty of clearance for all the mounting requirements . . . perhaps I'll try to trim the dash radio surround lip slightly as I did have to round off the square corners of the Motevo to fit in the hole. Really don't think that's the problem though, the bind is higher up at the HVAC controls, as I've already said.

[Tom0000]

If you compare this pic and the pic from post 54, the radios seem to fit the same.  Have you checked to ensure that the wires are pushing through the hole or are they possibley bending behind the HVAC controls blocking them from seating properly.  You might consider seperating the HVAC controls from the actual dash to test fit.  It might give you a better look at what the problem is.

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/attachments/f61/2845d1131967192-dove-into-dashboard-pics-info-inside-dash3.jpg

[Tom0000]

So what's going on with the install.  Any pics yet?

[tekenaar]

Joe, through where did you run the power/video leads for the rear view camera? . . . right side, very rear wire harness pass-through for rear lights, etc.? 

I tapped into right-side wiring harness (light-green) back-up light wire for rear camera power source and isolated it with a diode as I'm also using a second, touch-screen selected power source from the Motevo so I can turn it on anytime while driving. This source is also diode isolated so neither source feeds back to either radio or backup lights when alternate power source is selected. 

Also, does one pry from the top or bottom of that crescent-shaped plastic piece under the coupe spoiler to remove it (another thread).  Would like to locate camera in center of that piece if power/video can be easily fed there. Got to get that piece removed first though!  Thanks for hints thus far . . .

[DeepBlueGXP]

I pulled the left tail light because there is a vent in the trunk there.  You can see it with the left tire pulled and the wheel liner unscrewed (which you need to do to pull the light anyway.  Then fed the wires from the backup camera next to the licence plate light, to the opening into the trunk.  Route it along the sides and behind the seats to the center console and up to the radio.   I hooked it into the power wire for the radio (can't see it anyway unless the radio is on) and tapped into the light green reverse signal wire under the passenger door sill.


Remove the two screws and apply tape under the bottom edge (that way you don't mar up the paint) and use a panel removing tool or flat tip screwdriver to lift off the piece.  It has 6 press in metal plugs.  You may find there is plenty of space to mount a flush type camera in there. 

[LiquidPT]

I pulled the left tail light because there is a vent in the trunk there.  You can see it with the left tire pulled and the wheel liner unscrewed (which you need to do to pull the light anyway.  Then fed the wires from the backup camera next to the licence plate light, to the opening into the trunk.  Route it along the sides and behind the seats to the center console and up to the radio.   I hooked it into the power wire for the radio (can't see it anyway unless the radio is on) and tapped into the light green reverse signal wire under the passenger door sill.


Remove the two screws and apply tape under the bottom edge (that way you don't mar up the paint) and use a panel removing tool or flat tip screwdriver to lift off the piece.  It has 6 press in metal plugs.  You may find there is plenty of space to mount a flush type camera in there. 

Is the vent the same on the coupes? I dread having to change my taillight bulbs...

[DeepBlueGXP]

Actually it's on the right side, sorry, couldn't remember so I took the car apart tonight to prove it.




Just kidding, I took this photo the last time I applied sound deadening as per this thread http://www.kappaperformance.com/forum/index.php?topic=3171.0

[tekenaar]

I pulled the left tail light because there is a vent in the trunk there.  You can see it with the left tire pulled and the wheel liner unscrewed (which you need to do to pull the light anyway.  Then fed the wires from the backup camera next to the licence plate light, to the opening into the trunk.  Route it along the sides and behind the seats to the center console and up to the radio.   I hooked it into the power wire for the radio (can't see it anyway unless the radio is on) and tapped into the light green reverse signal wire under the passenger door sill.

Remove the two screws and apply tape under the bottom edge (that way you don't mar up the paint) and use a panel removing tool or flat tip screwdriver to lift off the piece.  It has 6 press in metal plugs.  You may find there is plenty of space to mount a flush type camera in there.  

Uh, up from four (4) in your previous response in "crescent plastic piece" thread?  

Remove the two screws, it is held in by 4 press on clips like the ones around the radio and shifter.  Apply tape to the paint below the panel you want to remove and use a thin screwdriver to pry it off.  I've had this off on my coupe just to see what was under there . . .

 

. . . and I fabricated an L-shaped metal "tool" to try and remove that plastic piece . . . to no avail thus far. So, tell me about that 'panel removing tool', what does it look like and how is it used?

The problem I'm having is that when I insert my tool at the bottom and pull outward on the plastic piece, it appears to stick at the spoiler lip at the top. I've tried it in numerous places along the bottom with the same results. I've put a lot of pressure on it without any of those metal snaps coming loose.   . . . don't really want to pull any harder and damage something back there. Thanks for suggestions . . .

[tekenaar]

. . . so here's my solution to routing and my 'either/or' 12V power sourcing with two isolation diodes for rear camera installation . . .



. . . I'll be pushing both 12V and video wires through that circled wiring harness grommet for final connection to the camera.