Topic: Helios' Push-button Start/ Keyless Entry System

[Helios]

Helios - I am also on the edge of my seat!  Need me to write a paper for you for school?

I was supposed to finish the write up while I was at DDMs open house. I will get to it very soon, I promise.

[Triuser]

Bump 

[frictionfighter]

Nice write-up Helios!

Not to steal the thread, but I did a $12 version of this as a part of my drift build over in the race section.  The MAJOR disclaimer is, that I'm not concerned with any functionality other than starting the car.  It just goes to show how much it honestly costs to do a fully OEM quality push-button start.  Trust me when I say that these cars can be a bit of an electrical nightmare....lol

If you want OEM functionality, pay the money.
If you want a racecar, check out my thread and post up any questions you might have

Thanks Helios!

[ophidia31]

That is sweet. Just one question. Do the kappas have a steering wheel lock that needs to be released when you turn the key? If so, I would guess you would still need to turn the key and then use the push to start or completely remove the steering wheel lock altogether?

[txtopsycrett]

I was also led here from another site. I'm very interested to see the write up as well.

[Helios]

Really sorry about the delay in the final write up. Work and school have me extremely busy still. I will get around to it. Yes, my plan is to remove the steering wheel lock all together. Unfortunately, for now I still have to use the key to unlock the steering wheel.

[Helios]

Today's the big day! Let's see if I can't remember everything I did to finish the install. Stay tuned!

[Helios]

Opted to use both antennas. Antenna installation:

See photo 1

Mounted passenger side antenna (long harness) and routed cabling toward driver side under visor frame and down the driver's side "A" pillar.

See photo 2

Mounted driver's side antenna (short harness) and routed cabling down the driver's side "A" pillar and over to the door lock and alarm module.

See photo 3

Connected the antenna harness to the unit.

[Helios]

see photo

Prior to soldering/ splicing any connections I attached the ground wires to these two points. Also, prior to cutting, splicing, or soldering any wires or disconnecting any electronic modules remember to disconnect the battery. Observe all electrical safety precautions.

[Helios]

see photo 1

View from underneath the steering column. Remove the steering column shroud by removing the three screws shown. (I don't remember the exact size).

see photo 2

Underneath the shroud you will find two connectors.

[Helios]

see photo

Measure 2 inches back from the connector and cut the white OEM wire (indicated by red arrow). Solder splice the white/ black stripe wire (from the flash logic module) to the white OEM wire segment that goes into the connector. Solder splice the white/ red stripe wire and yellow wire (from the flash logic module) to the other end of the OEM white wire segment that runs back away from the connector. Remember to insulate your solder splices after completion. Reconnect connector to steering column.

[Helios]

see photo

Unmount the OBDII port from underneath/ inside the driver's side footwell. Solder splice the orange wire (from the flash logic module) to the green OEM wire connected to pin 1 of the OBDII connector. The pin numbers are clearly stamped on the OBDII connector. Insulate the spot where you soldered. Remount the OBDII connector.

[Helios]

The remaining three wires from the flash logic module must be routed over to the passenger side footwell to the BCM for connection. In my experience, these three wires were approximately 4 ft short. I have advised Digital Guard Dawg of the difficiency. I routed the three wires underneath the dashboard through a small space forward of where the whole dash board "hump" drops down.

see photo 1

View of mounted BCM.

see photo 2

Disconnect C2 from the BCM. Remove its backshell. Locate pin 11 (dark green wire). Measure back approximately 6 to 8 inches and cut the OEM dark green wire. Solder splice the brown/ red stripe wire and purple/ yellow stripe wire to the dark green wire segment still connected to the connector. Solder splice the brown/ yellow stripe wire to the OEM dark green wire segment that runs away from the connector. Insulate all solder connections. Replace backshell on connector C2 and reconnect to BCM.

All connections from the flash logic module are now complete.

[Helios]

There are 6 wires that need to be spliced from the the push button start module and the passive keyless entry module. 5 of the 6 wires need to be routed over to the BCM in the passenger footwell to be connected. These wires are also approximately 4 ft short (I notified DGD about the deficiency). I utilized the same route for these wires as I did for the flashlogic wires. All wires EXCEPT the light blue wire were routed to the BCM. The light blue wire would normally be routed over there as well for vehicles with an automatic transmission (it gets connected to the BCM connector C1 pin 53). For those of us with a manual transmission I recommend connecting the light blue wire to the clutch safety switch. Pictured in photo 1.

see photo

The clutch safety switch is a 2 pin connector. This one connection is a S.O.B.!!!! There is very little space to disconnect the plug, pull it down, and solder your wire. It is a tight painful, connection to make! I can't remember if I soldered to the purple wire or yellow wire and will need to confirm this one connection at a later time.

[Helios]

Once the 5 remaining wires are routed over to the BCM locate and disconnect connector C3. It's the large one with a black backshell held down by a retaining bolt. Loosen the bolt to disconnect it and remove the backshell.

see photo

You will make 3 connections in connector C3. The connector pin positions were clearly marked in my install so I didn't take a picture of the 3 individual wire positions. Solder splice the brown wire (parking lights) from the PKE/ PBS modules to BCM C3 pin A7.
The following two wires are heavy gage wires (12 gage I believe). They are both red/ black stripe wires. Solder splice primary 12V (50A) red/ black stripe wire to BCM C3 pin D1. Solder splice secondary 12V (40A) red/ black stripe wire to BCM C3 pin D12.
Insulate solder connections, replace backshell on connector C3, and reconnect C3 to BCM.

[Helios]

The final two connection are made on BCM connector C4 located on the back of the BCM.

see photo 1

Unmount the BCM to gain access to BCM C4.

see photo 2

C4 is also held in place by a retaining bolt. Loosen the bolt to disconnect C4. Remove the backshell. The pin positions were clearly marked on my install so I didn't take separate photos for these two connections.
Solder splice the yellow wire (ignition) to BCM C4 pin D3.
Solder splice the brown wire (accessory) to BCM C4 pin C8.
Insulate all solder connections, replace backshell, and reconnect connector C4 to the BCM. Remount the BCM.

[Helios]

The harness I left disconnected earlier from the push to start/stop button, I now connected to the PKE/PBS modules.

see photo 1

I finished up by dressing in all the cabling and making it nice, neat, and compact.

see photo 2

[Helios]

Reconnect the battery. Now we need to program the system. Access the Flash logic module.

see photo

Installation mode selection:
1. Press and release program button once. LED should flash once.
2. Press and hold program button until LED turns solid green to confirm mode selection.

Module programming procedure:
1. Close the driver door. Re-open door to wake up data bus.
2. Insert key into ignition. Wait 3 seconds.
3. Turn key to ACC position. Wait 3 seconds.
4. Turn key to ON position. Wait 3 seconds.
5. Turn key to START position and hold for 3 seconds.
6. Release key and let return to ON position. Wait and LED should turn solid green for 2 seconds.
7. Turn key to OFF position.
8. Programming complete.

Reassembly of vehicle interior is reverse of disassembly. Enjoy the system!

[Helios]

Side notes of system install.

1. The OEM alarm system does arm/ disarm with the DGD system.
2. PKIII chip within the OEM key needs to be within proximity of ignition cylinder.
3. DGD system only unlocks the driver's side door. Unlocking the passenger side door requires use of the OEM keyfob. DGD may be working to resolve this issue because I'd rather have both doors unlock upon detection of the RFID tag.
4. Steering wheel lock needs to be removed to make the vehicle truely keyless (I have yet to do this). I still recommend keeping the OEM key and ignition switch operational for backup/ emergency purposes.
If the steering wheel lock is not removed the key must be used to unlock the wheel.
5. I wired the DGD "brake" wire to the clutch to serve as a safety to enable/ disable the START/STOP push button.

Operation:

1. Door unlocks and START/ STOP button illuminates upon detection of RFID tag.
2. Without depressing clutch pedal: Pressing start button once turns vehicle to ACC mode. Pressing start button twice turns vehicle to ON mode. Pressing start button three times turns vehicle to OFF.
3. To start vehicle: Press start button once. Depress clutch pedal and hold. Press and hold start button until vehicle engine cranks and starts. Release start button and clutch.
4. DRIVE!!!
5. To stop vehicle: Depress clutch pedal and hold. Press and hold start button until vehicle engine stops.

[Helios]

Thanks for everyone's patience for completion/ documentation of my install. I'll be more than happy to assist/ answer questions to anyone that thinks about installing this MOD.

The documentation that accompanied the system was top notch as was the customer support from DGD. I had a technician personally assigned to me to answer any of my questions since I was the first customer to ever install their system on a Kappa.

User review:
     It's been about 8 months of using the DGD system. I've had to use the key 3 times when the DGD system did not recognize the RFID tag (I don't know why). When I remove the steering wheel lock I will be much more satisfied with the system as a whole. For now, I'm fairly satisfied about its convenience and overall operation. Its value versus cost: Well it's an expensive system. So if you've got money to throw at doing this mod then go for it. If not, stay stock. Hope you enjoyed viewing my install as much as I did.

[TomatoSoup]

Great info!  Thanks.

All wires EXCEPT the light blue wire were routed to the BCM. The light blue wire would normally be routed over there as well for vehicles with an automatic transmission (it gets connected to the BCM connector C1 pin 53). For those of us with a manual transmission I recommend connecting the light blue wire to the clutch safety switch. Pictured in photo 1.

The clutch safety switch is a 2 pin connector. This one connection is a S.O.B.!!!! There is very little space to disconnect the plug, pull it down, and solder your wire. It is a tight painful, connection to make! I can't remember if I soldered to the purple wire or yellow wire and will need to confirm this one connection at a later time.

Here's where it gets dicey for 2008+ owners... Per a recent thread elsewhere, the clutch interlock switch(es) transitions from two discrete switches to a single rotary/variable resistor device.  Not sure how the 'light blue wire' connection you mention above works and/or if it can sidestep this or not, but I'd tend to think that this switch change would throw a wrench in the works!?

EDIT: I think I see now from your later post that the blue wire is the safety interlock, so it's not necessary to wire this to the clutch switch to allow the car to start?  Where would you suggest wiring it for those with later model manual cars?

[Helios]

Great info!  Thanks.
Here's where it gets dicey for 2008+ owners... Per a recent thread elsewhere, the clutch interlock switch(es) transitions from two discrete switches to a single rotary/variable resistor device.  Not sure how the 'light blue wire' connection you mention above works and/or if it can sidestep this or not, but I'd tend to think that this switch change would throw a wrench in the works!?

The light blue wire's function is to enable/disable voltage to the START/STOP button. In the case of the MY 2008+ owners it would be possible to keep the original connection point for it to be associated with brake pedal operation. In MY 2006-2007 there was no voltage with the key out and brake pedal depressed at the BCM connection point which is what forced me to use the clutch pedal switch. So, if I were you I'd go jump in your car without the key in the ignition, depress the brake pedal, and see whether your brake lights come on. If they do, that means you should be able to make your connection at the BCM. Hope that helps.

[TomatoSoup]

Nope.  No brake lights without key on in my '08 either.

[Helios]

Nope.  No brake lights without key on in my '08 either.

Then you'll have to talk with DGD. There was another work around they mentioned to me about adding a relay and getting the voltage from somewhere else or to operate in a manner in which you need it to work for you. They sent me a relay, but since I didnt need it I think I just threw mine in the trash.

[JQuinonesJorge]

  This mod is truly amazing. It will definitely be going on my to do list