Topic: Help me to reduce my drag racing times

[Kelu]

Now what?
Coilovers done, Z0K bars on their way, I will custom built locally a ProBeam (I hope DDM will not get angry on me but the shipping on those are killing me).

Option 1) I thought to a CAI, I was waiting DDM one but nothing for many many months, thinking to K&N but because I removed my airfilter in some of my drag races and logged it and I still saw maximum 33 lbs/min airflow I also think to delay it until I will upgrade my turbo. There is someone to point with data a real gain with stock turbo from a CAI?

Option 2) I have a spare full head, I have found a great guy (in Hungary) who can port it. He will measure before and after, the flow and also turbulence effect (how do you call it?) which he said is very important in direct injection case:
- Optimization, polish and port matching - 400$
- Porting Valves, valve seats and combustion chamber - another 250$
Shipping to him and back will be another 100$, do I gain something in my case on this? Does it worth it? I though I should delay this when/if I will go big turbo.
I have also spares intake manifold with throttle body and exhaust manifold, any work on these will help to worth the price?

Option 3) Water Methanol, I have logged many times, my intake temp is very good on Dejon IC, I doubt I  will have big gains out of this

Option 4) N2O wet 50-75hp spray, this sucker will make some new ponies because of this, probably the best solution for the gains, this might put me in the race category in my races but will allow me to keep the engine with low torque and very fun on streets.

Other options?

[Uranium-238]

I'd say option #2, perhaps not the greatest gains now, but will pay off down the road, especially if you go with a bigger turbo.

[Sol Asylum]

I would have to guess #2 as well but not having seen how the head was finished in stock form and how well it mates to the intake I can't say what you might gain.

[Kelu]

Ok, for port matching fans, I had this idea too but still undecided because:
- In stock configuration the head porting is not bringing too much gains (ZZP did it with stock turbo)
- is a great preparation mod for big turbo IF we will have a strong big turbo, but I ask you guys, we will ever have a strong turbo kit for LNF? I'm tired to keep looking around for a good turbo kit for more than a year, nothing good for me up to now (and I see I'm not the only one in this case) 
- I'm very sensitive to open the engine in this country

[Graywolf]

Head work is very expensive and gives you little return. I feel certain of that since I am probably running the best lnf head in the country . Flows better than GM racing with bigger valves,solid lifters and rollers. Turbo is the choke point. Spray is the cheapest way to go but its hell on pistons and so is installing a bigger turbo.

[DeepBlueGXP]

Install a water/meth injection

[Gentleman Jack]

lose weight.

Yes, both you and the car... anywhere you can.

If that isn't allowed in your race class, than I think the Meth is a good place to start.  Cheap, easy and proven to help.  I think IBDrinken has Meth?  He would be a good source of info.

GJ

[Kelu]

Head work is very expensive and gives you little return. I feel certain of that since I am probably running the best lnf head in the country . Flows better than GM racing with bigger valves,solid lifters and rollers. Turbo is the choke point. Spray is the cheapest way to go but its hell on pistons and so is installing a bigger turbo.

Ooppsss, sorry not to mention your example, I can't get used you are running the stock turbo.

Spray is the cheapest way to go but its hell on pistons and so is installing a bigger turbo.

As far how much this engine can hold, a quote from some guys who really tested the LNF:

[..]  We bent rods in a motor at 530 whp.  [...] This motor survived over 200 dyno pulls, about 20 visits to the track, and alot of daily driving.  An LNF @ 425whp would last a long time, if you weren't an idiot.

The original motor in my car did bend the rods, but as Ryan said, it was well over 500whp.  And don't forget that our dyno reads about 8% lower than a typical Dynojet.  It also got pushed past 8000 RPM dozens of times.  The current motor has been totally fine at 450-475 whp.  I am confident that LNFs will live just fine at 450whp for extended lengths of time.

They sell also internal parts for LNF so will be no marketing reason for them to make those statements.

Install a water/meth injection

Nobody showed a real data about it, having a nice IAT I'm not convinced that will worth to put 600-900$ on this with unknown results.

lose weight.
Yes, both you and the car... anywhere you can.

I can do as long I replace the removed parts with street approved parts like seats (500$ for 20lbs), rims ($1200 for 25lbs), tires ($1200 for maybe 25lbs) 
I still consider is cheaper to make more power than to loose weight in modern performance cars, but our cars seems limited 
I don't want go berserk like removing AC, audio system, etc. My car club colleagues were preparing for King Of Europe event which will take place in my city on 23-24th of July, I won't do such things EVER on this car:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_w2v8zbhqE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Znpw4-Enozk

[2.0 tspeed]

kelu you are def faster i ran 13.4 in 98 degree weather then 13.0 in 75 degree weather and that was before my dp. the heat is killing you out there btw whats your trapspeed

[Kelu]

13.0 with stock dp???
What tires? what 60ft time? what trap speed?

My trap speed when I did 13.30s (sept 2009) was 104mph with 2.0 60ft:
http://www.timeslip.hu/versenyfutam.php?lang=english&id=88919
Top was 106mph in that event

Here are all my runs from the race from September 2009:
http://www.timeslip.hu/verseny.php?lang=english&id=148&filter=1303&view=nev

Here are all my races from june 2009 when I had only tune and exhaust:
http://www.timeslip.hu/verseny.php?lang=english&id=138&filter=1303&view=nev

The races from this year are not in the site yet.

[2.0 tspeed]

Yeah I had the same 60 ft 2.0 but 105-106 is my trap I'm not going back to the track till it's cold  I bought bfgpodrich kdws btw I saw your track I'm
at a real prepd track yours looks like a road

[2.0 tspeed]

Oh I was launching at 3-4 grand

[Kelu]

With what tires you did 13.0? Because prepd track helps only 60ft in our case afaik and if you have same 60ft as mine means you have a lot more power than me.

In the race from september 2009 I could race for ET only (not taken in account for the event, that's why the runs are not in the site) during the evening/night too. It was same day when I did 13.30 but I couldn't blow that time because traction was even worse. I can't choose when I go to strip, most of my races are on 80 - 95 F

[2.0 tspeed]

Bfgoodrich kdws

[Kelu]

catless dp and mach cat-back brought me from 13.5s down to 13.3s so you should be on 12s.

[Critterman]

SloSol aren't you running meth as well?

[2.0 tspeed]

My 60ft has to b 1.9 to get into the 12s or a colder night no that is my next mod

[2.0 tspeed]

Wedding is keeping me from
more mods at the moment my fiancé finished all the wedding prep I saw my bank account and I was :-(

[Kelu]

Hahahah, to me is the other way, this keeps me out of wedding

[NormSky]

Kelu, loose 25 lbs for US$160 with a 15 pound Or less Braile battery.

[Kelu]

Norm: some races I did with over half tank and some baggage in the trunk, some I did them with low gas message on DIC, no difference in ET.
How much half tank weights? 40-50 pounds?
I know weight savings are more important in front of the car on a RWD than those from the rear but still, there are many other variables which screw my ET like track, temperature, etc
I had this debate in the past too and I have my colleagues examples, in our case with turbo car weight will help indeed if it is in high values like over 100 lbs.

[2.0 tspeed]

Half tank is a nono for some reason along with my cobalt buddies half tank where all slower so we run on full tanks,What I've Bern told and seen is our engines don't do as well anything under half a tank so I go full tank

[Kelu]

Tank on fwd cobalts is on the rear axle, they need weight on top of front axle and very light and high rear axle, this is the no-no for them. Running full tank on a fwd is a strange idea in my opinion.

Full tank in our case is not as bad because pushes on top of rear axle.

Never heard the myth about not running the LNF under half tank.

[LatinVenom]

It could be because of the 50/50 weight distribution, or close to it.
To my knowledge the 1/2 tank to a bit above is pretty much the best balance.
12.9 with the a tune is definitely achievable and it has been posted here and on the BB.

[Kelu]

Yes, on your awesome prepd tracks and with good tires. I'm not aiming a value, I'm aiming to lower mine.