Topic: Putting kappa on garage lift

[ctyankee]

Keep finding info on how to jack a kappa, but I've been searching for directions to give my neighborhood mechanic on how to properly put the car on a lift so he doesn't crack anything. This will be the first time not to a dealer and I'm nervous. Can anyone direct me toward a thread with directions on putting the car on a garage lift? All I could find were jacking instructions.

Thanks,
Andrew

[chuckdoc]

It is so dependent on the type of lift so there are no real directions that fit all situations.  It really is not difficult.  You know at Joes I have lifted lots of cars with not damage.  It boils down to the sides of the car can hit the arm the certain lifts before the frame is contacted.

Blocks on the lift solve the problem or hockey puck type inserts in the holes underneath the car (really obvious when you look)

But lots of lifts need none of these things.  The only thing they need to due is beware of the problem and watch as the car is lifted, where the contact of the arm of the lift is.  It is exactly the same with a corvette and some BMW's so if they have lifted a vette, they can do it.

Just talk to the lift guy.

[ctyankee]

That sounds like  the answer then. Make sure they have lifted a vette.

[Gentleman Jack]

You know, I've never seen a lifted Corvette.  So I googled it:

[chuckdoc]

Now that is just nuts.  Off road corvette.  Priceless

[numbbers]

Oh Man!  Now, we need an off road Kappa.

[ctyankee]

What a way to ruin a good Corvette.

[elff]

That used to be all the rage and people would race them in the mud.

[The Marshal]

It is so dependent on the type of lift so there are no real directions that fit all situations.  It really is not difficult.  You know at Joes I have lifted lots of cars with not damage.  It boils down to the sides of the car can hit the arm the certain lifts before the frame is contacted.

Blocks on the lift solve the problem or hockey puck type inserts in the holes underneath the car (really obvious when you look)

But lots of lifts need none of these things.  The only thing they need to due is beware of the problem and watch as the car is lifted, where the contact of the arm of the lift is.  It is exactly the same with a corvette and some BMW's so if they have lifted a vette, they can do it.

Just talk to the lift guy.

The frame slots in the rear, using pucks or other, are where to lift the rear.   According to the latest Service Manual, do NOT lift the front via the front frame slots.

Rad vette

[NormSky]

You can lift the whole corner of the car with a BMW puck in place. The width of the puck distributes over the whole where it's mounted. I've front lift a 400lbs heavier C5 Corvette which also has hydro formed rails. The BMW pucks hold up nicely with 1,000 lbs heavier CTS-V. 

[chuckdoc]

Ah, Marshal, he is talking about a garage lift that lifts the entire car in the air to rotate tires.  No garage that was trying to make $ would use a lift on one side, then lift the other side.

therefore there are 4 lift points to be used.

You may be correct if you are lifting one side at a time in your own driveway but I do not think that was what Andrew was asking.  Good information though, thanks

[The Marshal]

Here are the Service Manual pages..... I won't be lifting from the front slots (whether lifting the whole car or just the front, whether by jack, lift, or levitation)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab20/The_Marshal/Solstice/Technical/SolsticeLiftingandJackingPage1new.jpg?t=1276198469
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab20/The_Marshal/Solstice/Technical/SolsticeLiftingandJackingPage2new.jpg?t=1276198917

[ctyankee]

Just want to make sure the garage guys can put the car on a lift and rotate the tires. I'm sure they put the entire car up at once.

[NormSky]

http://66.173.233.11:82/Pics/scrape.jpg

Marshal, your service manual copies are not referencing the frame rails where the BMW jacking pucks are insert.  Stop spreading misinformation as I don't think you've spent anytime under your car. 

[The Marshal]

Exactly... the Service Manual is NOT referencing the front slots, only the rear frame slots for lifting cars..... there is no misinformation from me.... this is GM info, dude.    I have simply done my homework and am relaying the GM Service Manual information to those that may not have it.... GM Solstice Service Manual.....

I have the BMW pucks in my rear frame slots only.  Again, per the Service Manual.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab20/The_Marshal/Solstice/Technical/LiftPoints.jpg

http://66.173.233.11:82/Pics/scrape.jpg

Marshal, your service manual copies are not referencing the frame rails where the BMW jacking pucks are insert.  Stop spreading misinformation as I don't think you've spent anytime under your car. 

[Brad Kenny]

If you have the proper after market equipment installed... DDM stuff, you should be able to lift three of the tires off the ground from the rear lift points only... I have never lifted from the front, but my car is damaged from someone doing it before I bought it.

[Hal 9000]

The proper lift spot in the front is the little flat area with the two circles cut out of it. The problem is that those lift areas are higher than the bottom of the front fender panels.  If you just stick a straight lift arm under and lift, it will crumple the fender.  The operator just needs to make sure the pad at the end of the lift arm is high enough that the arm clears the fender.

Wow,I can't figure out a non-confusing way to say that.  Somebody with a better grasp of English please try...

[NormSky]

Hal, your right according to the GM using a four post lift. Might have one or two on the big board that has 4 post lift. So we settle for the frame rails with BMW jack pucks like Bob pictured.

[e-sarge]

These are 3 of the most common ways to lift a vehicle:

Four post lift: four vertical posts do the lifting, usually have 2 long ramps for the car to drive on. Good for muffler & under-car work where you don't need to take the wheels off and only need access to the center section of the vehicle. Needs other jacking accessories to be able to remove the wheels. Very little risk of lifting damage, but could easily scrape low parts during drive-on and drive-off.

Two post lift: two vertical posts do the lifting, usually have 2 adjustable arms on each side. Used by almost all tire shops. Have complete access to all wheels and 98% of the under-car area. Huge risk of lifting damage if arms are positioned incorrectly or if no pad extender is used on the front lifting points as outlined in the diagram posted.

Floor jack: Many types (NASCAR style, vertical ram, scissor, etc.). Lift the car in many possible locations, recommended location is side rear jack area with the oval hole. Moderate risk of lifting damage, easily avoided if you pay attention and position the jack correctly (keeping away from painted parts). Lifting pucks would make it almost idiot proof. If you use any of the front lifting points, the risk for fender damage goes up.

For the most part, the GM lifting document is referring to a two-post lift (or any other type of lift that needs 4 lifting points) for lifting the entire car at once by the frame. The 2-post lift is pretty much the standard lift for many automotive shops. FYI these are available for home use for under $5K for the serious hobbyist.