Topic: I have a noise when on boost with P0236; Won't start after filling the gas tank

[kennysabarese]

On the purge valve front, I opened the gas cap today and the car started rough.

On the boost noise, I checked the BOV diaphragm, looks perfect. Can't find the stock spring. Guess I'll buy one.

[Morfious]

Kenny you can have my stock spring, it's sitting in a box in my garage.  I also found some part numbers on the solenoid:

Manufacturer: AC Delco
214-2125 - Evaporator Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve

Cross Reference for GM Part Number: 12592015
Supersedes AC Delco #214-1473

$15-20 I'm going to try and install it over the weekend to see if that clears my P0496 and misfire codes.

[kennysabarese]

Sweet man. Thanks!

Found the part numbers 2142125 2142236 and 215582

Wasn't sure which one was the right one. Due to other busy-ness I'm just going to take the car to the dealer tuesday and let them deal with this.

[kennysabarese]

Going to try the boost leak test today. Gotta figure out how to cap that PCV line shabby mentioned.

Is there an advantage to testing from the turbo vs the passenger charge pipe?

[kennysabarese]

Here are some pics of the intake and diaphragm. Anything look abnormal?
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
[attachment=4]
[attachment=3]
[attachment=5]

[shabby]

Is there an advantage to testing from the turbo vs the passenger charge pipe?

Well there could be a leak somewhere on the turbo, either around the compressor housing or through the oil seals. But since our cars aren't really that old you can bypass the turbo if you want, plugging that pcv line is a pita.

[kennysabarese]

I have done a boost leak test from the charge tube. Up to about 22psi no leaks that I can hear over the sound of the crickets.

[kennysabarese]

Shabby. When I do the catch can will I have to touch any of the lines that are a pain to plug?

[shabby]

Yes, the steel braided line that goes to the compressor cover. Getting it off isn't the problem, just getting the steel braided line off the fitting is since a fuel disconnect tool wont fit there.

[kennysabarese]

Figured maybe I'll do the full leak test when I do the catch can. Doesn't seem to make a difference though.

So here's what I did to my Kappa today:

Took off the compressor outlet stuff. Swapped the BOV spring back to stock after Morf generously gave me his.

[attachment=1]

Then hooked up version 1 of my boost pressure test cap.

Simple rubber cap for 2 bucks:
[attachment=2]

Socket adaptor for the electric drill is the best thing ever!
[attachment=3]

Popped a tire valve into the rubber cap and clamped it on using the existing TBolt:
[attachment=4]

Everything was going well. The car took pressure, the DIC boost guage would show boost, and I could use a tire pressure gauge to test it without having to walk around the car to look (yes I could have stuck a pressure gauge onto the cap but why quadruple the price of the cap   Then I got to about 22psi and the rubber stretched out so much that it started to leak around the valve

So version 2 will be coming tomorrow.

I had no audible leaks up to that pressure though, so it's probably fine, but I only get the noise under full boost which is probably 26 or 27psi so I want to go higher.

[kennysabarese]

Oh I was also able to get an accurate recording of the noise. This is before changing the BOV spring back to stock. I haven't driven the car since, waiting to do the second boost test, car is still apart.

EDIT: I got a better recording later in the thread.

[NormSky]

Soinds like mine when you let off the throttle under boost and you hear the chuff, chuff, chuff. The previous owner had the adjustable BOV too tight and was causing compressor surge.

[Arabas]

Kenny, have you checked the screws on the exhaust manifold?

[kennysabarese]

This noise is while on the throttle. It's a metal clank like something is loose.

I will check the manifold tonight. Completely forgot   

[chuckdoc]

Imthink mine is the air conditioner.  Too hot out to drive it to joes garage.  But I will keep you posted.  Rattling metal sound when I hitnit, only when air conditioning is on

[kennysabarese]

This noise doesn't change with AC or not.

Quick update. Updated my boost tester cap thing and was able to charge the system to 30psi without any audible leaks. Put everything back together.

As Arabas asked I cranked on 3 manifold bolts, one got a little tighter. If that is it, Arabas wins the prize. I will have to open up the manifold heat shield to really get to the bolts though. That will have to be another day.

Started the car let it idle and got a new code!

[ECM] P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) System Performance (Old) (Immature)

I'm hoping this is from the system seeing boost when the car was not even running, because I had the key turned to the On position while doing the boost test. I should have checked the codes before I started the car.

After a quick check on the forums I think it's overboost. Gunna clear it and drive.

Going out for a quick spin right now.

[kennysabarese]

Ok. I've driven the car hard. Did a few logs... I don't think the noise is boost air related. 

I was doing some logging and nothing changes in the logs when the noise is made. If it was a boost leak the airflow and pressure would be affected.

I did get a P0236 code again after logging and then turning off the car. The next start or the car put it in limp mode so I had to clear the code.

BUT HOORAY I finally got a good recording of the noise. Here it is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ1rGtFfnuo

Any ideas?

[Uranium-238]

Exhaust leak?

[Arabas]

Kenny, the 4 top bolts of the exhaust manifold are quite easy.
the 4 bolts of the lower part are a PITA and u have to get under the car.
it must be left to get really cold though (keep it one day still, without turning the engine on).
as a funny friend described this noise in another friends car, it s like metal butterflies flying around the engine....

since the boost test was ok, i strongly believe you should check the manifold, to exclude this or find the solution.

man, this Gremlin of yours is a pita!!!

[kennysabarese]

I was able to get the 3 closest to the cabin and one of the lower ones. the one bolt on towards the front of the car was easy to reach but i couldn't get enough room to turn.

i'm going to take off the manifold heat cover and look at the other screws soon. maybe tonight.

238: I was thinking that, but from what I hear people say, exhaust leaks just sound like chuffing, and my first videos were that way because of mic distortion. The latest sounds more like these two videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lgKX4ihtxs#t=13s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ke6Y1dMe7F4&feature=related

[Kelu]

Both videos are with the engines on low rpm and not at heavy load like yours.

[kennysabarese]

Yes but the sound is almost identical. Maybe the exhaust is just shaking around or something. I dunno.

[Uranium-238]

Part of my reasoning behind suggesting it's an exhaust leak is because you recently went catless. Maybe something has worked it's way loose or cracked?

Highly doubt it's a clutch issue, if it was you'd likely be hearing it contsantly throughout the rev range.

[NormSky]

P0236 is MAP related according to my quick google search. Check the vacuum line between wastegate and turbo. Also check MAP line and electrical wiring to MAP since you have electrical issues. 

[Critterman]

Get a couple of rags and a friend.  Start the car and hold a rag over the exhaust (that is why you need a friend or long arms), rev's should slow down, if you have an exhaust leak you will hear it.

Can't listen to your vids until I get home tonight.