I do not intend to write a complete how-to, but I would like to show what can be done pretty easily by anyone with some electronic experience. Hopefully this will give some people a few ideas and maybe a little inspiration.
Shortly after getting a Sol, I decided to also get a data logger. Seems like a must have if you plan to tinker with anything performance related

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I bought an Auterra DashDyno SPD since it seemed to have all of the basic features and could generate dyno graphs as well. It also has the ability to interface to a GPS through a serial port and log positional information along with car sensor information. It is designed to use a serial cable and a handheld GPS... I never liked this idea since there's one more thing to bring and plug wires to connect and then route the wires all over the dash

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I always thought it would be nice to install a bluetooth module on the DashDyno and have it grab its GPS info from the TomTom in the Eclipse headunit I'd previously installed. Bluetooth modules are pretty simple and there are plenty of hacks for programming a TomTom (they are basically running Linux underneath it all), but programming to maintain the bluetooth links automatically and the routing of NMEA commands to the bluetooth link all seemed like actual work, so I kept putting off doing anything about it. I see that they now have a newer model with bluetooth built-in and sell an additional bluetooth GPS (something else to bring and keep charged... at least no cables to route).
Finally a few weeks ago it hit me! why not just install a whole GPS internally??? I looked around and found a GPS module small enough that has RS232 output (not just TTL) for about $35. After reviewing the GPS and DashDyno specs, I determined that I needed an additional power supply. I ordered a little DC-DC power supply and input capacitor (about $15). I taped the metal shielding over the GPS receiver so it shouldn't short anything in case it breaks loose and then glued it to the top of the DashDyno's SD card reader housing. I soldered the input capacitor, power supply and wiring. I covered the power supply assembly with heat shrink tubing (to prevent damage if it ever breaks loose), and glued it to a relatively unpopulated portion of the DashDyno PCB next to the GPS. I routed all of the wires though a couple of holes in the PCB to get to the connector pins. I soldered the RS232 lines to the appropriate pins of the connector where it solders to the PCB, and I soldered the power lines to the point that the DashDyno gets its main power (it diode or's two possible power input sources, one is the vehicle power through the OBDII connection, and the other is through a 12V wallwart plug). After double checking all of the connections, I powered everything up and verified operation.
Before anyone says it:

A picture of the mods to the board:

I took a trip to a dog show and then a shooting range last weekend (in a Ford Expedition) and here are some pictures of the log info for one leg of the trip:



I know, I know, before anyone asks for them, I've only done a few dyno runs with it...
Here is one from May08:

The dyno graph is pretty neat, but to be reasonably accurate and consistent you need some additional information so the software can make appropriate corrections. Total weight, temperature, humidity, elevation, barometric pressure, etc... The above graph's peaks were 241.4hp & 236.4ft/lbs, but the exact numbers are going to be a little off since I don't have an exact weight for the car with me in it

but kinda like with regular dyno's, if I use the same weight (assuming the car hasn't changed weight), I can compare improvements later.