Author Topic: P0101 code and limp mode (Read 31880 times)

WWI Flying Ace · « **Reply #25 on:** June 27, 2012, 09:54:08 PM »

I have that dang code now...trying to find the gremlin...glad to hear that you eliminated yours! This thread encourages me as I've had the issue for a year or so now and need to get it gone...glad to see that it is possible.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #26 on:** June 27, 2012, 11:21:23 PM »

WWI,

Is your car tuned or stock? Post up some examples of when it's happening and perhaps I can help narrow it down for you,

nighttripper · « **Reply #27 on:** June 29, 2012, 02:52:00 PM »

Try cleaning MAF sensor.

tazz · « **Reply #28 on:** June 29, 2012, 11:31:01 PM »

My guess is you have a small air leak somewhere.
Check every fitting from your turbo to your TB on the intake mani and the nipple & connection coming off the plastic intake tube that goes to the valve cover. Triple check all the hose clamps, inner cooler & pipes and right where the T-map sensor is located on the cold charge pipe as well as the boost by pass solenoid lines back to the turbo. Our ECM is set up so sensitive that if another sensor or table says it should be "seeing" x amount and it see's a slightly different amount it will pop a code and go into limp.

WWI Flying Ace · « **Reply #29 on:** July 06, 2012, 11:22:13 AM »

Hi guys-
Thanks for the suggestions. Sorry for not mentioning the mods I have. I has the GMPP tune, also has a Fujita CAI with a K&N filter, and MBRP exhaust. Had most of that for at least 2 years and no issue, except occasionally it would run bad, and the dealer would (when the warranty was in effect) replace the Bosch sensors for the GMPP. Happened a couple / three times. That was over the last 2 years or so since I got the GMPP. Before that, the Fujita and the exhaust were on a year or so with stock tune and never an issue. Current situational update: I had it to the shop and they put a new MAF, as well as some other parts to fix some other codes it was throwing. (Had been running horribly rough). The car runs nice and smoothly now, but now the turbo remains as the outstanding issue. I have had 7 keycycles since picking it up. On the first, it would not boost past 3. On the second, it was boosting normally (reliably up to 20, occasional spikes to 21 or 22). Third, would not boost past 4. Fourth, would not boost past 3. 5 and 6 were this morning, boosted normally, (I think it even hit above 22 once). Then the last keycycle, driving to work. Boosted way up as normal for the first 20 mins, then would only go to 1 or 2. Sometimes, would not even boost at all. Will be taking it back to the shop...based on the intermittency, it seems like it could be software/ECM? If it was an air leak, would it be intermittent like that? I'm really scratching my head here. My shop (not dealer anymore, warranty done...been going to the shop for 10 or 15 years with our "fleet") is excellent, honest, and reliable. So they are interested in fixing it and not just clearing the code and getting me out of their hair. Any thoughts are welecome...I'm currently at a loss.

Critterman · « **Reply #30 on:** July 06, 2012, 11:59:57 AM »

are your sensors crimped or sodered? If crimped get them sodered.

WWI Flying Ace · « **Reply #31 on:** July 06, 2012, 12:04:00 PM »

Thanks for the heads up...they were dealer installed but likely crimped (as I was one of the original GMPP buyers...before they came out with the nifty plug and play connectors they offer now for the kit). I'll tell the mechanic about that when I drop the car off.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #32 on:** July 06, 2012, 02:49:40 PM »

Yep. I got the same code until I soldered. Not seen it since.

http://www.kappaperformance.com/forum/index.php?topic=7465.0

Arabas · « **Reply #33 on:** July 06, 2012, 04:19:13 PM »

I also agree in soldering them. Sounds like this could be ur problem

WWI Flying Ace · « **Reply #34 on:** July 11, 2012, 09:44:34 AM »

Crossing my fingers for it to be. I'm taking my car to my guy on Tues...hopefully he'll have good news for me. At this point, the car is running and driving fine, until you use the turbo...and then the result is either no turbo, or wild surges with wild numbers on the DIC, or normal boost, or a combination of all of those. Crazy.

elff · « **Reply #35 on:** July 15, 2012, 11:01:10 AM »

Any Updates?

WWI Flying Ace · « **Reply #36 on:** July 16, 2012, 09:46:31 AM »

Goes into the shop tomorrow...crossing my fingers for the cheap "solder the leads" fix.

WWI Flying Ace · « **Reply #37 on:** July 25, 2012, 03:13:53 PM »

OK, they had it two days. I told them to flog it to try and get the feel for the issue. They said that the wires were good and didn't need soldering. And they said they hadn't done anything except clear the check engine codes, but it was running great to boot, and they could not reproduce the issue despite several long test drives in variable conditions. He refused to charge me for the shop time, despite the fact that I know they had at least 3 hours into all the test drives based on the fuel used and the roads he told me they took it out on. So I went to get it and it was running perfect...perfect...boosting to 20+, spinning the tires in second gear, mileage way up where it normally was...for a day.
Then the next day the turbo boosted to 1 or 2, and then not at all, etc. So, since then, about 15% of the time it runs like it should. The other 85% of the time it is either not boosting, starts working normally and then the turbo stops working during the drive to work, or it is spluttering and nearly stalling...it is so intermittent and it is driving me crazy.
At this point, I think my options are: take it to a turbo specialist, find a good dealer, or yank the engine and put in an LS3. Ok, so that last one isn't really one of the options just yet. But, this is my DD...I am at my wits' end. Any suggestions beyond what is already in the thread here? Anyone know of a top knotch turbo specialist in the Baltimore area?

elff · « **Reply #38 on:** July 25, 2012, 03:22:28 PM »

Same suggestion as before
Remove the crimp connectors and solder the wires.

You should not give them praise for not charging you
They didn't do anything besides waste your time.

SOldering the wires will have no negative side effects so they should have done that to eliminate that as a potential issue.

A bunch of us have had this issue and it was the connectors everytime.

Arabas · « **Reply #39 on:** July 25, 2012, 03:24:25 PM »

Start by soldering the map wires, whatever the shop says. Start from there imo

tazz · « **Reply #40 on:** July 25, 2012, 06:28:52 PM »

What type of crimp did they use?
The ones from GM should be a heat shrink type and if done correctly should seal just like heat shrink plastic shroud.
Also I found out why GM did not go with soldering the splices and went with the heat shrink crimps. According to another GM shop MGR he stated that GM has seen solder guns that are not properly grounded send current feedback through the wires back to the ECM or sensor and fry the ECM or Sensor. He also stated that the heat shrink crimps work great unless you overheat them and actually melt too much of the plastic away to expose the metal crimps under the plastic. This can cause water and debris to get to the wires and cause issues and why they should be wrapped with electrical tape really good as a double protection against corrosion.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #41 on:** July 25, 2012, 07:31:34 PM »

Quote from: tazz on July 25, 2012, 06:28:52 PM

He also stated that the heat shrink crimps work great unless you overheat them and actually melt too much of the plastic away to expose the metal crimps under the plastic. This can cause water and debris to get to the wires and cause issues and why they should be wrapped with electrical tape really good as a double protection against corrosion.

Well that bit, at least, is rubbish. Mine 'looked' to be crimped just fine... certainly airtight. I still got codes, yet have not had them since I soldered.

tazz · « **Reply #42 on:** July 25, 2012, 07:44:29 PM »

The crimps were not done right?
Ive actually talked to several electricians that say if done properly crimps are just as good as soldering but most do prefer solder since there is LESS chance of BOTCHING the solder job vs the crimp job. The crimp job could cause the wire to shift to an area that is not as tightly crimped and thus cause issues with a inconsistent or intermittent problem. So it's not really the crimp that the issue stems from but from the crimps NOT being correctly done that causing the issue.
So basically it boils down to which way is there less chance of a botched job and that would be a solder job vs crimps though if done correctly they are the same.
DO you think all the female or male pins on any of the OEM connectors are soldered the answer is NO they are crimped on and if done correctly will last as long as the vehicle unless the plastic connector becomes brittle and cracks.

elff · « **Reply #43 on:** July 25, 2012, 08:05:44 PM »

Kind if a moot point as he is getting

LIMP MODE

Soldering solves the issue and has successfully solved this issue by eliminating a bad install or a bad part on double digit number of kappas at this point

Critterman · « **Reply #44 on:** July 25, 2012, 08:10:18 PM »

Solder them and be done with it.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #45 on:** July 26, 2012, 01:58:24 AM »

Solder them and be done with it.

1LILNDN · « **Reply #46 on:** July 26, 2012, 08:56:31 AM »

You should try soldering them ,heat shrink them and be finished

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #47 on:** July 26, 2012, 09:34:53 AM »

Quote from: tazz on July 25, 2012, 07:44:29 PM

The crimps were not done right?
Ive actually talked to several electricians that say if done properly crimps are just as good as soldering but most do prefer solder since there is LESS chance of BOTCHING the solder job vs the crimp job. The crimp job could cause the wire to shift to an area that is not as tightly crimped and thus cause issues with a inconsistent or intermittent problem. So it's not really the crimp that the issue stems from but from the crimps NOT being correctly done that causing the issue.
So basically it boils down to which way is there less chance of a botched job and that would be a solder job vs crimps though if done correctly they are the same.
DO you think all the female or male pins on any of the OEM connectors are soldered the answer is NO they are crimped on and if done correctly will last as long as the vehicle unless the plastic connector becomes brittle and cracks.

You are correct in everything you say. (Properly) crimped connectors are used everywhere in the electronic industry - even in satellites (I'm a telecomm engineer). Crimping gives a firm metal-metal contact that can even be superior to soldered joints which can end up being a metal-solder-metal connection. Most of these connectors are crimped by machine or otherwise by skilled techs.

Now compare that with your average dealership tech who's never even touched a crimper and is not exactly sure what a GMPP tune even is?

It may have been said before, but 'Solder them and be done with it'.

WWI Flying Ace · « **Reply #48 on:** July 26, 2012, 11:02:44 AM »

Soldering it will be. Too bad GM just didn't have the plug and play connecter ready before they released the kit. Ah well.

I got the original install at the dealer, but as per the discussions above, that is no guarantee it was done correctly.

When I get the soldering done, I'll come back and update the thread.

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #49 on:** July 26, 2012, 11:08:57 AM »

Another issue with crimp connectors is that often times the connector requires a proper tool to crimp them and each proper tool can run hundreds of dollars. Most techs only have those cheep hardware store crimpers and they are not a good substitute for the right tool. Thus poor connections.

News:

Welcome Guest!!!

Author Topic: P0101 code and limp mode (Read 31880 times)