Topic: E-brake adjustment that works.

[DeepBlueGXP]

Perform that only after you have reset the caliper, that isn't included there.

[kennysabarese]

The biggest difference between the videos is the noise. One is silent the other is not.

Not sure I understand why I would need to adjust the parking brake. I thought that it was pulling on the caliper when the handle was disengaged. But I can confirm visually that it is not. What more could be wrong?

[DeepBlueGXP]

the gear isn't engaged so it is binding.  Do what you want, your braked are the exhibiting the same result that Dark Tech had and the reset fixed it.  What do you have to loose by trying????

[kennysabarese]

Sorry if it seems that i am challenging you. I'm just trying to understand how it works. What is the gear you are referring to. In the handle or the caliper?

[DeepBlueGXP]

In the caliper.  It's what engages the piston and it is toothed/notched that maintains the position and is threaded, that is why you are supposed to be able to cycle the e-brake handle to get it to adjust in. 

The attached images isn't our brakes but gives you an idea of the insides

When you use your emergency brake, it's connected to this screw in such a way that if there is too much slack, it turns the screw out another notch, kind of like a ratchet for a socket, except in one direction. The notches in the piston are to keep it from rotating so that the screw will be sure to push it out. If you could reverse or freewheel the ratchet mechanism, you could just push the piston back in, but that would be more expensive to make, and having it be one-way is also probably more reliable.

[2wrdr]

I know this tread is old now but found when search for doing an E-brake adjustment.  At the time I was also doing an oil change and brake fluid flush.  Car is an 07 GXP with less than 13K miles.  Even though its very low mileage the car is probably almost 10 years old from date of manufacture.  I used a brake fluid tester which indicated more than 3% water and the fluid was dark in the reservoir.  Since getting the car about 5 months ago I've always thought the brakes were a little weak for a sports car.  After doing the brake flush I noticed brakes slightly better and E brake really no change.  I then performed the previously suggested piston retraction method of breaking loose a possible frozen set of rear brakes.  This helped both the E-brake and braking in general so I believe mine were frozen like many other.  Funny that the brake pads looks almost new and I was only able to screw in the pistons about 1 turn.  BTW, I only needed to use an over sized long nose pliers from HF.  Anyways I wanted to give back a little help to a forum that has helped me by posting some pics that might help the next guy as the previous pics from post one have long been gone.  On the first side I took two bolts out that I did not need to.  The other side took about 15 minutes.  I took the pics while doing the procedure, put them in a free program called photoscape, added text, applied focus processing to the areas of interest along with a few lighting tweaks as lighting was poor.  All pics free for anyone to use anyway they want including admin possibly moving as they see fit.









No need to.

[Sly Bob]

Nice post 2wrdr!