Author Topic: Converting to adjustable coilovers  (Read 6980 times)

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Offline snaponbob

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Converting to adjustable coilovers
« on: February 20, 2012, 01:00:50 PM »
So, my old Konis are shot. Cheaper to replace than rebuild. BUT, my adjuster sleeves are heat shrink style, so need new slip on sleeves. With the wonder of Google and some (bunch of) follow up calls, I found a great source for sleeves and lower adjuster nut (spring perch). I will be reusing the Koni top perch as it fits into the stock body mount. I bought two 7" sleeves that will be into four 3.5" and four adjuster nuts. Total outlay $100 including shipping.

The reason I'm "going cheap" with two sleeves is that the body is ~4" from the seat ring to the top, and the available sleeves are either 5" (which have to be trimmed down) or 7". This allows 3.5" of adjustment range using either 7 x 2.5" or 8 x 2.5" springs depending on how low the car will be.

If management allows, I'll post the vendor info or one can e-mail or PM me. BTW, the Koni parts are expensive.
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
DDM ProBeam & Tower brace, CCW 18x11 wheels for racing

Offline snaponbob

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2012, 11:52:06 PM »
Got the shocks, and have now installed the sleeves, etc. Back on the ground. I knew right away that the old ones were used up. The old ones were "de-gassed". The new ones have a charge, but not much, especially compared to Bilsteins. Low pressure gas shocks vs. high pressure gas shocks. Anyway, the car is sitting about .5" higher, but I can adjust that out.
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
DDM ProBeam & Tower brace, CCW 18x11 wheels for racing

Offline Carbon Sky

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2012, 12:17:49 AM »
Got the shocks, and have now installed the sleeves, etc. Back on the ground. I knew right away that the old ones were used up. The old ones were "de-gassed". The new ones have a charge, but not much, especially compared to Bilsteins. Low pressure gas shocks vs. high pressure gas shocks. Anyway, the car is sitting about .5" higher, but I can adjust that out.

Don't think that .5" will "settle" out?

Offline snaponbob

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2012, 09:18:58 AM »
Don't think that .5" will "settle" out?

Probably not. And if so, I'll turn the spring adjust a couple turns !!!
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
DDM ProBeam & Tower brace, CCW 18x11 wheels for racing

Offline davytudope

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2012, 01:01:23 PM »
I have koni sports and the springs i got from you with sleeves and perches from koni.  I got the height right, but I had to get helper springs for the front to take out the slack when the car is in the air.
2007 solstice gxp
TEAM FAIL RACING

Offline shabby

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2012, 06:50:47 PM »
but I had to get helper springs for the front to take out the slack when the car is in the air.

Hmm how much of an issue is this? Im thinking of going the same route but never thought of this at all.

Offline snaponbob

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2012, 07:16:01 PM »
Okay, this is going to sound REAL "shade tree", but here goes. Real low rate "helper springs" (like nearly zero) are absolutely the "proper" way to go. And I didn't. I have the upper perches safety wired to the springs, and beyond that I let physics do the work. The ONLY times that an inch or so of slack will matter will be when the car is jacked up or airborne. Other than that, the car's weight will assure that the space is closed. When jacking the car, if ONE side is jacked up, the sway bars will hold up the elevated wheels just fine. If the car has been on stands, when the car is lowered it is only a matter of looking to see if the springs have settled onto the perches properly. And THAT, boys and girls, will save a bunch of cash !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
DDM ProBeam & Tower brace, CCW 18x11 wheels for racing

Offline shabby

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2012, 07:38:03 PM »
I have the upper perches safety wired to the springs

Safety wire gotcha... throws out zip ties.

Offline snaponbob

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2012, 07:55:18 PM »
Safety wire gotcha... throws out zip ties.

Actually, said "safety wire" to avoid cranial meltdowns. Heavy duty zip ties have lasted two seasons. Absolutely zero load on them.
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
DDM ProBeam & Tower brace, CCW 18x11 wheels for racing

Offline Carbon Sky

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2012, 08:00:29 PM »
Hmm how much of an issue is this? Im thinking of going the same route but never thought of this at all.

To be honest, I've been driving since (just) before I was legal, and in about 15 years of driving, and definitely more than a 1 million kms on the road, when you throw in road trips on top of the daily drive, and I've only ever gotten the car airborn twice.  It doesn't happen very often, but it can.  Personally, I'd recommend getting helper springs, it's relatively cheap insurance versus if you ever get it air born.  I've seen people pull up the inner rear wheel off the ground, or people messing around in the sticks hitting bumps and getting air born, etc.

It's definitely very rare, and many people don't run helper springs, and it never becomes an issue.  But I'm leaning towards daily driver reliability, and you only get that with helper springs.

Offline snaponbob

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2012, 08:14:14 PM »
To be honest, I've been driving since (just) before I was legal, and in about 15 years of driving, and definitely more than a 1 million kms on the road, when you throw in road trips on top of the daily drive, and I've only ever gotten the car airborn twice.  It doesn't happen very often, but it can.  Personally, I'd recommend getting helper springs, it's relatively cheap insurance versus if you ever get it air born.  I've seen people pull up the inner rear wheel off the ground, or people messing around in the sticks hitting bumps and getting air born, etc.

It's definitely very rare, and many people don't run helper springs, and it never becomes an issue.  But I'm leaning towards daily driver reliability, and you only get that with helper springs.

ALL of that is valid. However, if the spring is slightly dislodged, when the weight comes back down on the springs, they WILL pop back into place.
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
DDM ProBeam & Tower brace, CCW 18x11 wheels for racing

Offline Carbon Sky

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2012, 08:20:41 PM »
ALL of that is valid. However, if the spring is slightly dislodged, when the weight comes back down on the springs, they WILL pop back into place.

Different strokes for different folks I guess.  Like I said, you'll likely never have a problem, but it's nice to have OEM durability/safety/etc.  Which can be easily achieved with the helper springs.  It's not like you're gaining anything.  Well beyond it being a little cheaper.  But c'mon they're like $30 ish.  Considering what one has already spent, and will continue to spend as dampeners wear out, this is a one time purchase of like $120 . . . that's a very small percentage increase in a suspension budget in my opinion.

Offline snaponbob

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Re: Converting to adjustable coilovers
« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2012, 08:30:13 PM »
Different strokes for different folks I guess.  Like I said, you'll likely never have a problem, but it's nice to have OEM durability/safety/etc.  Which can be easily achieved with the helper springs.  It's not like you're gaining anything.  Well beyond it being a little cheaper.  But c'mon they're like $30 ish.  Considering what one has already spent, and will continue to spend as dampeners wear out, this is a one time purchase of like $120 . . . that's a very small percentage increase in a suspension budget in my opinion.

You are correct. different strokes, etc. But "tender" springs are generally zero rate. Hence, they offer very little. If the spring gets caught up on the perch, it will jump off of the VERY slight edge that is holding it and slam down on the perch. It's ALMOST a placebo. But, if makes one happy, fine.
Bob Buxbaum
snaponbob AT comcast DOT net
2007 Redline, Revalved Konis, Crazy alignment
FE3 front and Z0K rear bars, owner installed pwr lock buttons
catless downpipe, SP custom exhaustWester's tune
racing springs and adjustable perches
DDM ProBeam & Tower brace, CCW 18x11 wheels for racing