Topic: Whole lot of engine codes, no CEL, and reduced boost... what's going on?

[rlhammon]

So my car is acting up again, and looking to see what the general thoughts about it are.

Over the weekend the car set a CEL, and I pulled the following codes via Torque (Android App) and subsequently cleared them.

Current Faults
P0087 - Powertrain
P0089 - Powertrain Suction control valve stuck
P0119 - Powertrain Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0455 - Powertrain Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

Pending Faults
P0304 - Powertrain Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0300 - Powertrain Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 - Powertrain Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected

I cleared these faults as the car was driving fine.  I've seen both the P0119 and P0089 codes in the past, but haven't seen an issue.

After clearing those codes, I drove home and noticed the car was not providing boost.  0 psi in 1st and 2nd, max of 5 psi in 3rd and 4th, and 0 psi in 5th gear.  Obviously something is wrong, but no CEL.  I checked via Torque again, and the below codes are now there.

Pending Faults
P0101 - Powertrain Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0119 - Powertrain Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent

So... something is going on.  I know that over the last month, here are issues I've had:

HPFP "died", and put the car into reduced power mode.  This was on my way to the SCCA National Championships.  I found another AC Delco replacement pump on my way to Lincoln and had that installed at a dealership in Lincoln.  No issues once that was done.

Last week, while running my E47 blend tune, I get a message of "Check Gas Cap" on the DIC.  I pull over, shut the car off, remove the gas cap, and install it again.  Start the car, everything is fine (message gone, and never a CEL set).

This weekend, while running E47 blend, no issues.  I converted back to a gasoline tune once I ran the E* out of the tank, and now the above codes.

I know that the P0089 can be related to multiple things, but often times duty cycle of the injectors can cause an issue.  I'm trying to figure out if that is my case... though I'm running the GM Stage tune on good (Shell 93 Octance) tier I gas.

The P0455 code is new to me, and has me really wondering what's going on.  I have a DDMWorks Oil Catch Can... wondering if I've blown a lead somewhere or if I just need to replace the check valve by chance.

Any suggestions / advise?  I'd hate to drop it at the dealer this week, as they are always expensive, but I'm not good at the CEL / code side of errors.  If it's mechanical and it breaks, I can replace it and/or fix it though.

Thanks!

[1LILNDN]

rlhammon

How to fix it check engine light code P0455

wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_fix_it_check_engine_light_code_P0455 - Similarto How to fix it check engine light code P0455

 P0455 means a gross leak detected in the Evaporative Emissions System. Some call this a "gas cap" code, because the most common cause a loose or failed ...

[rlhammon]

rlhammon

How to fix it check engine light code P0455

wiki.answers.com/Q/How_to_fix_it_check_engine_light_code_P0455 - Similarto How to fix it check engine light code P0455

 P0455 means a gross leak detected in the Evaporative Emissions System. Some call this a "gas cap" code, because the most common cause a loose or failed ...

Thanks... as I stated I saw that message on the DIC last week, and the message went away.  I'm thinking there is something more than the gas cap with the combination of codes being set leading to another issue.  The car wouldn't be boost limited because of a loose or suddenly poor fitting gas cap, would it?

[Dave@DDMworks]

With those codes there are 2 things I would check right off -

1. - Clean your MAF, if you get a dirty MAF for any reason we will see misfires show up often.
2. - Check your EVAP solenoid also - this also can alter fueling and cause the misfires to show up.

It is not uncommon for a bunch of codes to sometimes pop up on the LNF cars.

[1LILNDN]

rlhammon  go up to your last post, High light the code and left click , LOOK at the bottom of the High light and you can find out what others have found. There a lot of different reasons there . Hope this Helps

[rlhammon]

With those codes there are 2 things I would check right off -

1. - Clean your MAF, if you get a dirty MAF for any reason we will see misfires show up often.
2. - Check your EVAP solenoid also - this also can alter fueling and cause the misfires to show up.

It is not uncommon for a bunch of codes to sometimes pop up on the LNF cars.

I'm all too familiar with the "codes in bunches" with these LNF engines, which is why I was asking.  I'll check both MAF and EVAP tonight when I get home.  Still believe I need to change the coolant sensor on the engine block... I know Alex just did this recently as well, and he and I were having similar temp issues, so that might be part of the codes too.

[elff]

How many miles are on your car?
The pending codes for misfires could be carbon build up.

[rlhammon]

With those codes there are 2 things I would check right off -

1. - Clean your MAF, if you get a dirty MAF for any reason we will see misfires show up often.
2. - Check your EVAP solenoid also - this also can alter fueling and cause the misfires to show up.

It is not uncommon for a bunch of codes to sometimes pop up on the LNF cars.

1.  I don't see any issue with the MAF, but will clean it.  I didn't have any carb cleaner (brake cleaner yes) in my cabinet, so I'll do that shortly.

2.  Following the video you have posted elsewhere, my Evap Selenoid is like blowing through a straw.  No resistance what so ever... so that's one of the issues.     THANK YOU.

Time to order that... and if I can find the part number for the coolant sensor on the engine block I'll pick that up as well.

[rlhammon]

How many miles are on your car?
The pending codes for misfires could be carbon build up.

~72,000  It's entirely possible, but was hoping with all the Tier I gas and the E* I've poured through it over the last two years there shouldn't be any issue in the engine.  I'm one of the few that's never touched my spark plugs though... still running the stock plugs, and have never pulled them to even look at them because I've never had an issue.

I'll be pulling plugs when I install the new evap solenoid.

[Sol Asylum]

I think he means carbon on the valves, because our cars are DI fuel never washes over the intake valves to keep them clean.

[elff]

There is actually MAF cleaner. I am not sure if the other stuff would cause any issues.
With our engines being Direct Injection, the gas and Ethanol wont help.
Other engines have the same issue. BMWs Minis porshes. Etc....

[Gentleman Jack]

Lots of codes always makes me think weak battery or poor ground. But the bad solenoid valve is a good start.

[Dave@DDMworks]

1.  I don't see any issue with the MAF, but will clean it.  I didn't have any carb cleaner (brake cleaner yes) in my cabinet, so I'll do that shortly.

2.  Following the video you have posted elsewhere, my Evap Selenoid is like blowing through a straw.  No resistance what so ever... so that's one of the issues.     THANK YOU.

Time to order that... and if I can find the part number for the coolant sensor on the engine block I'll pick that up as well.

Like Elff said, there is actually MAF cleaner, not the same as brake cleaner or carb cleaner. It is sold at most auto parts stores and is what you want to be spraying on the MAF.

[1LILNDN]

I bought a Can at Advance Auto Parts. I think it is about 8.00

[rlhammon]

Lots of codes always makes me think weak battery or poor ground. But the bad solenoid valve is a good start.

See this is why I asked here... I hadn't even thought about that.  I'm still on the OEM battery... time to check that as well.

[rlhammon]

Like Elff said, there is actually MAF cleaner, not the same as brake cleaner or carb cleaner. It is sold at most auto parts stores and is what you want to be spraying on the MAF.

Thanks Dave.  I've never had an issue where I felt the need to clean the MAF, so didn't have this or know it existed.  I'll pick that up.

I'm curious as to why I'm not having starting issues with a bad Evap Solenoid.  I'm not going to claim I understand the issues a bad one can create, but everything I've read has pointed to looking at this when you had a "hard to start" condition.

I'm also going to change out the engine coolant sensor.  One of the codes which was set (P0119), is related to that sensor.  I had an instance months ago where I had coolant leak from the overflow.  I've noticed since that time the car runs cooler (my car always ran 205*), at around 199-201* now.  I thought I finally "burped" the coolant system.  I bought some Dexcool and filled the tank to the cold fill line and reset the code.  I haven't seen it come back until now.  I ended up ordering the Evap Solenoid online because local stores didn't have one and it was cheaper online anyway... so I ordered the Coolant sensor too.  Hope this one is as easy to get to as the Evap was. 

[rlhammon]

So tonight I replaced both the Evap and Coolant sensors.  Took a bit to get the coolant sensor connected again, but wasn't too difficult in the end.

All current faults cleared upon restart, and the pending faults where still there.  I cleared the two pending faults, and went for a drive.  None of the codes came back.  Good news there.

Bad news... I still have limited boost.  Again, 1 or 2 psi in 1st / 2nd gear, up to 7 psi in 3rd, 0 in 4th/5th.  No codes.

I've checked all the clamps... turbo to pipe, pipe to intercooler, intercooler to pipe, pipe to hose, hose to throttle body.  I can't seem to find anything loose or any leaks.  I don't hear any leaks when driving either.  Any further suggestions?  I'm supposed to head up north this weekend for a fall color tour with the top down, not sure I want to take the Solstice if I can't solve this on Friday.

Thanks.

[Jackknife]

How about the intercooler itself?  Any bulges,splits, etc.?

[elff]

Visually checking stuff normally doesn't discover a boost leak unless it is real obvious
I had to chase a leak down a while ago.  Turned out the BOV was not sealed properly on the Driver side IC pipe.  Was a Pita to finally get on there, but now it's good to go.
The way I tested mine was to disconnect the passenger IC Pipe from the Elbow that comes off the top of the turbo
I then got the following




And with a silicon adapter [I believe 3" to 2"] and used the Tire inflator that came with the Sky.  I pressurized the system and walked around listening for the leak.

Note: You will get leaking around the Throttle body, but that should be slow.

The other thing I thought of is if you have 3 bar tmap sensors.
If you do, the connectors might be bad. 

[tazz]

Does the TB have a gasket?
I need to take mine off to check and clean and just need to make sure i know what is all there.
4 bolts and disconnect the TB quick connect harness and maneuver it out of the way of the vacuum booster behind it right for the 07 Sol GXP.

[rlhammon]

Visually checking stuff normally doesn't discover a boost leak unless it is real obvious
I had to chase a leak down a while ago.  Turned out the BOV was not sealed properly on the Driver side IC pipe.  Was a Pita to finally get on there, but now it's good to go.
The way I tested mine was to disconnect the passenger IC Pipe from the Elbow that comes off the top of the turbo
I then got the following

...

And with a silicon adapter [I believe 3" to 2"] and used the Tire inflator that came with the Sky.  I pressurized the system and walked around listening for the leak.

Note: You will get leaking around the Throttle body, but that should be slow.

The other thing I thought of is if you have 3 bar tmap sensors.
If you do, the connectors might be bad. 

Yes, I've done two walk around inspections of the charged piping trying to find the source.  I started there because there is *no boost* in 1st and 2nd.  Previously when that has happened I've lost a T-bolt clamp, usually one of the two on the tube between the turbo and intercooler.  I've been able to hear that in the past, but I don't hear a leak.  Also, in the past when that's happened I haven't been able to build boost in any gear, but currently I can in 3rd... which I don't understand.

It's hard to see the intercooler on these things, especially with the Performance AutoWerks one stuffed in there.   I'm hoping that's not an issue.

I'm glad the codes cleared.  I'm now wondering when I replaced the HPFP on my way to the National Championship if all I needed was a $10 Evap solendoid instead.  I'm not going to put the old pump in to find out... but that was an almost $800 fix to get up and running the day before the event.

After changing out the coolant temp. sensor behind the turbo, I don't like the way my O2 and coolant wires are routed.  They seem really close to the cat on the downpipe.  Anyone have some good pictures of that area?  I might disconnect and re-route or at least cable tie things out of the way.  I've already melted the upper O2 (#1) wiring once and had to repair that last year.

Thanks... I'll keep looking for the boost leak.  The car isn't nearly as much fun to drive without the turbo.

[Dave@DDMworks]

Yes, I've done two walk around inspections of the charged piping trying to find the source.  I started there because there is *no boost* in 1st and 2nd.  Previously when that has happened I've lost a T-bolt clamp, usually one of the two on the tube between the turbo and intercooler.  I've been able to hear that in the past, but I don't hear a leak.  Also, in the past when that's happened I haven't been able to build boost in any gear, but currently I can in 3rd... which I don't understand.

It's hard to see the intercooler on these things, especially with the Performance AutoWerks one stuffed in there.   I'm hoping that's not an issue.

I'm glad the codes cleared.  I'm now wondering when I replaced the HPFP on my way to the National Championship if all I needed was a $10 Evap solendoid instead.  I'm not going to put the old pump in to find out... but that was an almost $800 fix to get up and running the day before the event.

After changing out the coolant temp. sensor behind the turbo, I don't like the way my O2 and coolant wires are routed.  They seem really close to the cat on the downpipe.  Anyone have some good pictures of that area?  I might disconnect and re-route or at least cable tie things out of the way.  I've already melted the upper O2 (#1) wiring once and had to repair that last year.

Thanks... I'll keep looking for the boost leak.  The car isn't nearly as much fun to drive without the turbo.

Just checking, did you get a chance to clean the MAF also?

[elff]

Thanks... I'll keep looking for the boost leak.  The car isn't nearly as much fun to drive without the turbo.

I want a rematch of our nationals autox
With you car not running right, I think I can now post a faster time. 
Actually, that might not be a good idea, if you still beat me, that is going to be UBER embarassing

[rlhammon]

Just checking, did you get a chance to clean the MAF also?

Dave I did not yet, as I haven't been able to get home this week until after 10 PM and haven't purchased any MAF cleaner.  I shall do so today, as I will be home early enough.  Do you think this could be related to the no boost?  As I said, upon driving last night there are no codes being set (at least at that time).

[rlhammon]

I want a rematch of our nationals autox
With you car not running right, I think I can now post a faster time. 
Actually, that might not be a good idea, if you still beat me, that is going to be UBER embarassing

Too funny.  My car is so much further along than it was even at that point.  The 11" wide Forgestar wheels and 315 wide Hoosier A6's make the car fun to drive.... when it has power!