Topic: Solstice Projector HID Install - a Show and Tell

[Sly Bob]

It'll be interesting to see how they handle the warranty claim.

[Critterman]

So I guess you owe me a set of lights now since I pointed it out to you.  I will take a set of front and back, thank you very much.

[TomatoSoup]

It'll be interesting to see how they handle the warranty claim.

Just heard back from them... they (TRS) are sending me a replacement shutter mechanism as well as a shroud clip (which will break when I take the trim shroud off).  I won't have to return the broken one first.  Yay!

Still not looking forward to taking this whole headlamp apart again.  Sigh.

[TomatoSoup]

Well, I got the parts from TRS yesterday, so this morning I took the headlight out and opened it up using the oven... turns out I didn't need the parts after all...

This is what they sent, a new shutter and a shroud clip:

[attachimg=1]

But when I took the headlight out I could hear something rattling around inside the headlamp assembly.  Took it apart and found one of the shutter-holding screws had backed completely out (which is what was rattling) leaving the shutter loose - hence the jamming and vibrating as I drove.  A screwdriver and some blue loctite later, it was back in (arrow):

[attachimg=2]

Put everything back together and back in the car.  Seems to be working fine again (cross-fingers!)

[Critterman]

So you are going to send the parts back.............................right?

[TomatoSoup]

Yup.  At least, I'll ask them if they want them back.

[Sly Bob]

Great that they stand behind their stuff. Odd that the screw shook loose eh.

[redlinedude]

A question for TS. I am getting ready to install my HID kit and have a question about wiring it. I have read that the proper way to install this is to use a relay harness so the power comes from the battery and not the BCM. Can I safely use the positive and negative connectors on the side of the fuse box (see below) or should I connect them directly to the battery?

[TomatoSoup]

OK, FIRST, those terminal are NOT positive and negative.  Well, the red one *IS* positive (and is what I used for my setup - per the photos in the thread), but the black one IS NOT NEGATIVE!  Instead, just find a nearby chassis bolt - one with ground wires already going to it is probably a good choice - and use THAT for the negative.

[redlinedude]

Thank you for the info 

[JesseB]

Hey TS, thanks for the write up!! Can you give me a little more info on how you used the JB weld to hold the projector in place more secure. Thats my only worry and only reason I havnt started the project. I was told I may need to make a bracket to help hold it, but they looks the same as yours and this seemed like a great option!

[TomatoSoup]

Hey TS, thanks for the write up!! Can you give me a little more info on how you used the JB weld to hold the projector in place more secure. Thats my only worry and only reason I havnt started the project. I was told I may need to make a bracket to help hold it, but they looks the same as yours and this seemed like a great option!

I just built up a flattened cone of the stuff around the bolt hole locations, to give a nice flat surface for the nut and distribute the clamping force.  See the rear of the reflector in the pic below.  The projectors themselves are not glued in, if that's what you were thinking.

[JesseB]

oh ok, I see now! did you do this with the bolt screwed in or did you build it up around the hole, then let it cure, then screw the bolt in? *may be a dumb question, I just dont do this kinda stuff much...*

[TomatoSoup]

oh ok, I see now! did you do this with the bolt screwed in or did you build it up around the hole, then let it cure, then screw the bolt in? *may be a dumb question, I just dont do this kinda stuff much...*

Per the original posts...

I was a bit wary about just bolting them down to the angled rear of the reflectors and the possible stress that might put on them (there's not much material there, as you can see from prev photos).  So I got some JB weld epoxy putty (the stuff you mix/knead together with your fingers) and used it to mold reinforcements around the mounting holes.  I used drinking straw sections to extend the holes (though you could just re-drill them if you wanted) and cut the top surface flat with a sharp knife when the putty started to firm up.  Note, this putty doesn't have a long working life when mixed - maybe 5 mins tops - so I recommend you only mix enough for two holes at a time.  Of course this part is optional (I don't know of anyone else who goes to this much bother), also, there is limited clearance behind the lower two holes when the bowl is put back in the housing, so make them as short as possible if you do this. 

[JesseB]

should I return the original jb weld that I purchased and get the kwik weld (the one I have sets in 4-6 hours and cures in 15 to 24 hours) the kwik weld sets in 6 mins and cures in 4 to 6 hours...thank you for your help!