Thanks for the info Boss.
I have been essentially trying to research into these issues. From what I've learned recently, there is this metered air issue. I have also learned that there is a big difference between having/wanting pressure or vacuum in either the heads or the crankcase. And that just because one is perhaps under vac or pressure doesn't mean the other section has to be the same, even though they share oil passages between them. Which is why the guy in the video mentioned words like "slight vacuum" and "might affect oil flow, I'm not sure".
So it's starting to come down to that the OCC should maintain stock-like flow and what not through the head section (not affecting the crank case), it can and still does allow oil vapor back into the intake stream. The alternative is the OBT which will now effectively eliminate ANY oil/blow-by whatever you want to call it. And the true main down side might be a slightly oily film in its vicinity. There is likely going to be zero affect to the car otherwise.
To look into this more, I intend on getting an OCC, running it as an OBT at first. I will take vacuum/pressure measurements in the head and in the crank case before and after. I will monitor for issues like changes in vac/pressure, volume of oil coming out when running it as an OBT versus when running it as an OCC, and just how much oil residue is coming out of the breather.
To be honest, an oily deposit is not an issue for me. I know it is for a LOT of people, and I totally understand that, and if so, go with the OCC for sure. But my car is a daily driver that goes through 4 seasons every year. I have rust-proofing sprays and what not EVERYWHERE in the engine bay already. There's CRC-SP400 and Loctite Maxi-coat on ANYTHING in my engine that is a fastener that doesn't get extremely hot, or any other exposed metal showing oxidation, which is pretty much anything not coated/painted. So you can imagine, it ain't pretty, but also isn't going to rust. So a little oil residue near the OBT ain't no thang to me.
I'm not a huge fan of the location DDM has chosen simply because it's near the turbo and will get HOT. I was thinking send the line on a downward trajectory forwards, towards the right side of the structural part of the bumper. Plus then if/when it releases residue, it will be in areas I've coated with rust proofing anyways.
Also, I have no issues with emissions testing and running an OBT. The only visuals I must past are specifically the following:
Must have a catalytic convertor, and a gas cap.
No defects in the fuel filler pipe
Visible smoke from the tailpipe
And safety issues that would prevent an e-test (when they put it on a dyno and put a sniffer in the tail pipe)
I ran my previous car with a breather and passed e-test. And hell, I even have to put the stock downpipe (catalytic convertor) on the car to pass the test. So what? My first test starts when the car is 7 years old and will need to e-test it to have it registered for it's 8th year on the road. So I have 3+ years left till my first test (2016), and I've been driving the car 4+ years already. It's not a big deal for me to do this 1 time after 7 whole years on the road. So if swapping the cat, and putting the stock tune back on the car for an e-test isn't a big deal for me, even if I had to plumb this stuff back to normal wouldn't be a big deal. And I'm not even going to, because it's not an issue in a visual check in my area. And even if it were, I have friends that are automechanics that will help me out, which I have never had to resort to yet because I've always made the car pass when I needed it to.
But anyways, sounds like it's gonna be get an OCC, run it as an OBT, test things out before/after, and go from there.
Thanks again miller and boss! Great info!