Author Topic: Kappa Stereo lessons learned (Read 33171 times)

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #25 on:** October 19, 2009, 09:37:02 PM »

Quote from: Rogue on October 19, 2009, 08:01:25 PM

Item of note: bipolar caps are a nice cost effective solution, however they do tend to change value as they age. A film cap would be a better longterm choice if that is an important part of the decision making process.

Sure, but a quick check shows that 220mic, 63V film caps are $37 (each!) at Digikey, whereas a bipolar 220/50v is a buck. So that decision may be easy to make

lil goat · « **Reply #26 on:** October 20, 2009, 09:02:54 AM »

Chokes.com has some very good prices on 200uf, makes it a bit higher crossover but should be good.

EC200
200µF Non-polarized Capacitors 100VDC $2.70
http://www.chokes.com/Non-Polarized_Capacitors.html

lil goat · « **Reply #27 on:** October 20, 2009, 12:29:34 PM »

There is also guy on eBay who for under $10 will make you anything you want, with polarized or none polarized caps.

I am beating my head against a wall trying to find some good 2 ohm door speakers, there are the Infinity's but even though I like the sound every pair I ever bought or helped install blew within 6 months.

I can find the Kenwood's, they look good and I can find them but only on eBay. I can find Image Dynamics but $400 is a bit much! The Cadence look like a good choice but no one has them. I am more motivated by the challenge than the need now!

Rogue · « **Reply #28 on:** October 20, 2009, 01:41:17 PM »

Quote from: TomatoSoup on October 19, 2009, 09:37:02 PM

Sure, but a quick check shows that 220mic, 63V film caps are $37 (each!) at Digikey, whereas a bipolar 220/50v is a buck. So that decision may be easy to make

Wow! It's been a loonnnggg time since my days as an audio engineer - you're right, the nonpolarized electrolytics are very attractive!

lil goat · « **Reply #29 on:** October 20, 2009, 04:32:12 PM »

I have all but given up on my search for 2 ohm door speakers, just not any in my price range that thrill me. Now I am looking for the best sensitivity in a 4 Ohm, 3db better sensitivity is the same as the difference between 2 ohm and 4 ohm volume wise, and the amp runs cooler. I have found some that are 95db sensitivity, that is way higher than most and 4 db higher than what I am running now, should be much louder. They are not cheap but a lot less than $400. They are Cadence CVL's, and have been compared to the $1500 Focal component systems.

I ustacould figure this stuff out, now it makes my brain hurt.

Johnny-Longtorso · « **Reply #30 on:** October 21, 2009, 09:00:31 PM »

Quote from: lil goat on October 16, 2009, 08:58:35 AM

Maybe we are supposed to use these check the name Infinity Kappa 60.7CS 6 1/2
(Image removed from quote.)

I have the previous generation of these in my Mustang and they are awesome. Mine have a little better response, but 95dB is still pretty great. The crossovers are unnecessarily huge - I ended up pulling off the plastic cases and just mounting them as required. I may have to put some Kappas in my Kappa!
It's been a couple years since I installed them - but I do recall having an issue - the top of the basket actually had a "step" that kept them from mounting in a "true 6.5" opening". I ended up making a baffle from some thin wood stock to bring them out a little. This required a tad of surgery on the door skins to accommodate. Wonder is the design has changed....

speedhawg · « **Reply #31 on:** November 06, 2009, 04:21:30 PM »

I will be attacking my sub install this weekend, I have a small air leak I need to fix. I have learned a lot from this install and would certainly do it differently were I to do it again. Some 10" subs will work in the stock box, most won't. The mounting depth is a very small part of the problem, basket size is the big part. The motor (magnet) on the stock woofer is VERY small, that is where you run into it even with a different 8" sub. If anyone is going to do this. I would absolutely get a rind to extend the box a bit and make it deeper, even for a different 8". There are lots of woofers listed as shallow, what a crock. Most still have huge motors.

BigSal · « **Reply #32 on:** November 06, 2009, 04:59:48 PM »

Lil goat,

Does the ring push out the subwoofer enough to cut down on how far the seat goes back? ( I don't have a monsoon system but would like to add a sub).

BigSal

speedhawg · « **Reply #33 on:** November 06, 2009, 05:12:55 PM »

The ring should fit under the factory cover, it is only 3/4" but that is a mile in this application. It should have no effect on how far you can push the seat back, unless you need to double it mine sticks out much farther and I have no issue's, the magnet is on the front of my 10" sub. The back of the seat is soft and hollow, the top hits before the bottom, unless you are sitting straight up.

BigSal · « **Reply #34 on:** November 07, 2009, 08:34:53 AM »

Thanks for the information. This will definately help in my installation process and falls under the category of "Things you don't know you don't know".

Sal

spicy3480 · « **Reply #35 on:** November 07, 2009, 11:07:18 AM »

Lil goat...do you recommend upgrading the battery, which we all know is rather weak, when upgrading the speakers and subwoofer? I had a competition system in my old car, with a JL Audio 12W7 and 1000W RMS powering it. I also had a/d/s components (which they don't make anymore, but they were amazing). Any audiophile will know who a/d/s is and how great their products were in the audio world. I needed a much larger battery just to handle the brief peak bursts of bass, whereas the lights wouldn't dim. Is the battery upgrade worth it, even with a less complex setup like the one you have?

IBDRINKEN · « **Reply #36 on:** November 09, 2009, 01:47:40 AM »

here is a link to my system.http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f61/custom-stero-install-jpm-54855/I upgraded the battery as well to a red top and have had no issues as before my battery would die.

lil goat · « **Reply #37 on:** November 09, 2009, 08:27:54 AM »

I have not had a battery issue yet, but I am not in the majority, many many people have had issue's with the battery on the car, I think there was a bad batch. I would absolutely recommend getting a bigger better battery. I have a 12 volt gauge on my car and can see the voltage drop very fast if the car is not running with the stereo on. I will be getting a new battery this winter. I used to be a be a big Optima fan, the one on my truck has not held up at all so I will certainly be looking at alternatives instead. Right now it looks like it will be a 21 lb Braille, but still looking.

Critterman · « **Reply #38 on:** November 09, 2009, 10:52:35 AM »

One thing unrelated to stereos but related to batteries. If you have a dashHawk and leave your car setting for periods of time, unplug it. It will drain your battery.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #39 on:** November 09, 2009, 11:11:34 AM »

Does that apply to other OBD reader-type gauges too? (Specifically Aeroforce gauges)??

Critterman · « **Reply #40 on:** November 09, 2009, 01:55:59 PM »

I can't answer that one, but I do know for a fact that over the winter when my car sat for a week or more the battery was dead with it connected. When I unplugged it I went for 3 weeks at one point and the car started right up.

lil goat · « **Reply #41 on:** November 10, 2009, 09:11:30 AM »

There is something weird on our cars, I connected the remote turn on of my external amp to the wire that goes to the factory amp as the remote turn on, it turns the amp on long after the car is turned off, and seems to keep it on a lot. I think this is so the bells work when you open the doors, not sure but my amp has a power light and it is on as soon as I open the door of the car, can't see if it is on before I open the door. This means the factory amp is on as well, I have been looking at batteries, for now the
Braille B3121 21lbs/9.5kg
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Right Side Positive

Tire Rack has them, and they include the bracket.

Weighing in at only 21 pounds, the Braille Lightweight Racing Battery is 10-30 pounds lighter than a stock battery. It improves the performance of many vehicles and is suitable for premium luxury vehicles, extreme audio builds and extreme engine builds with high compression and no alternators, supercharger systems, large cams and underdrive pulleys. Custom car and vintage vehicle owners will appreciate the battery's acid-free technology, too.

Specs

Casing: Polymer plastic
Weight: 21 lbs.
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Width: 5.2"
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Warranty: 1-year free replacement

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #42 on:** November 10, 2009, 10:37:23 AM »

Quote from: lil goat on November 10, 2009, 09:11:30 AM

There is something weird on our cars, I connected the remote turn on of my external amp to the wire that goes to the factory amp as the remote turn on, it turns the amp on long after the car is turned off, and seems to keep it on a lot. I think this is so the bells work when you open the doors, not sure but my amp has a power light and it is on as soon as I open the door of the car, can't see if it is on before I open the door.

I noticed that the factory amp fuse is connected to an always-on supply in the BCM. When I saw this I was a but surprised and could not understand why this would be so - except possibly, because the switched/retained accessory power circuit was not 'strong' enough to power the amp(?)

Anyway, may be the remote turn-on wire is simply connected to this supply. Does the amp come on if the head unit is off? If so, that would point to it.

lil goat · « **Reply #43 on:** November 10, 2009, 10:43:28 AM »

I remember reading in the factory service manual that it is on some times for the bells, and yes it is on even if the radio is off maybe it is on all the time, but the the wire is labeled remote turn on in the schematic.

FixedJoker · « **Reply #44 on:** March 25, 2010, 12:07:57 PM »

From what I understand on a monsoon system everything runs through the factory amp. But....Where are the crossovers for the tweeters and mids on a non-monsoon system. I have the base sound sound system.

I'm getting ready to install aftermarket Alpine tweeters and 6 1/2 door speakers. Should I just plan on running new speaker wires or can I tap into the factory wires after I go through my new amp?

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #45 on:** March 25, 2010, 05:11:38 PM »

The non-monsoon radio drives each speaker individually, so whatever crossover's there are (if any) are internal to the radio. I assume the radio drives the monsoon amp the same way (one feed/channel).

FixedJoker · « **Reply #46 on:** March 26, 2010, 11:12:00 AM »

Yeah, I started tearing the car apart last night and determined that I will just run new speaker wires from the amp to crossover to the speakers and bypass using any existing factory wiring.

RickVB · « **Reply #47 on:** January 20, 2012, 06:55:21 PM »

Know this is long dormant, but don't think my question rates a separate topic - does anyone know what the Monsoon amp crossovers are? That is, are the low frequencies already blocked to the back speakers, or are bass blockers called for?

Carbon Sky · « **Reply #48 on:** January 20, 2012, 07:33:51 PM »

Quote from: RickVB on January 20, 2012, 06:55:21 PM

Know this is long dormant, but don't think my question rates a separate topic - does anyone know what the Monsoon amp crossovers are? That is, are the low frequencies already blocked to the back speakers, or are bass blockers called for?

Based on information in this very thread, looks like you will need "bass blockers".

IBDRINKEN · « **Reply #49 on:** January 20, 2012, 10:21:41 PM »

I used bass blockers when I did my install

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Author Topic: Kappa Stereo lessons learned (Read 33171 times)

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