Topic: HELP!! Time for a new clutch... ?

[Johnny_gxp]

Cruising down the highway today doing about 72 in 5th. A in a Mercedes was tailgating me in the middle lane, so I gave the solstice gas to move in front of the car in the slow lane... 2700 rpm, 3000rpm, 3400rpm, *vwaaaap* 5500rpm... Oops that's not good...
I'm the fourth owner of the solstice so god knows what it's been through, but it only has 26,3xx miles... 
It doesn't make sense... It shouldn't slip that horribly... Especially this early in time. I currently have a GMPP CAI, Wester Tune, and a solo cat back. So I could very well be making upwards of 400 ft lbs of torque..  Should I upgrade the clutch? I want to return to stock... But that just might be the issue.
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!! 

[Kelu]

I had also Westers tune but with no cat downpipe and solo cat-back and I was doing more than 400tq

My clutch went south around 20 xxx miles, but I won't tell you what I did with it

If I wouldn't upgrade the turbo I would prefer a stock clutch even if I have to replace it every 20-30k miles.

[Johnny_gxp]

Kelu, Should I install a new pressure plate and flywheel too?

[Sol Asylum]

The holy trinity of clutch replacement is clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing.  On the Kappas go ahead and replace the slave cylinder while you are there too.  The flywheel should always be resurfaced during a clutch change but I think the consensus on the kappa is to replace that too since the cost to resurface is usually pretty close if not more then just replacing.  The flywheel isn't just a big heavy flat disc on these cars.

[Johnny_gxp]

This is starting to sound expensive....

[Kelu]

Define: expensive everything is relative in this case

Ok, here is the full story about my case, in the combo described above plus some nitrous shots and over 200 launches at the "drag strip" killed the clutch in racing conditions, on the street it was still fine.

You should still be fine on the street for another thousands of miles, how many, nobody knows. Just stay sharp to feel how often and on how low stress.

You can easily revert your stock tune (HPTuners)?  If so, if you care about more about your pocket then drive stock because it has a lot less tq.

[Sbutcher2]

All good info... I have seen posted different manufacturers with various levels of products. Most products appear to base their clutch systems on expected output at the rear wheels.

Overall what companies have people found in a product that balances performance, reliability and cost. USA companies preferred.

[kwtoxman]

Most vendor upgraded clutches I've read here have notable nvh, and chatter, which I really don't want. A new option is act. http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f59/clutch-replacement-75580/

[elff]

IMHO
I think you should get a stock clutch as a replacement
Your clutch issues are probably from the previous owner and you are not puahing HP or TQ in excess of the stock components
You are closer to 300tq with just the tune you have.

[Gentleman Jack]

IMHO
I think you should get a stock clutch as a replacement
Your clutch issues are probably from the previous owner and you are not puahing HP or TQ in excess of the stock components
You are closer to 300tq with just the tune you have.

I got hurt real bad one day when I was puahing.  I don't recommend that to anyone.

[Sol Asylum]

I got hurt real bad one day when I was puahing.  I don't recommend that to anyone.

Was that when you were "working" with Lob Butz?

[Gentleman Jack]

I can really discus that in public.

[Sol Asylum]

I can really discus that in public.

Well this is kind of a public forum so...

See Critter it's not just you.

[DeepBlueGXP]

I agree with Elff, the previous owner misused the clutch.  I still have the stock clutch and have been running Westers Race tune since 5k miles.  Now over 95k miles

[Critterman]

Yeah but we all know you never push your car past 3.5 k