Topic: How to: Install Lambo Door Hinges

[DeepBlueGXP]

The hinges are from Vertical Doors Inc.  Since this was my first install and the instructions are for a 06 not a 07, this install took 12hours.  The second one (ChuckDoc's) took 6 hours and the 3rd (Critterman's) to 3.5 hours.  The last one I installed (Go-N Def's) took 3 hours.

Prep work using the instructions from http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/753066-post63.html.  The instructions are for a 2006 Solstice so the information on the ECM and components to be moved are different. 
Prior to receiving the hinges,  I only removed the quarter panels and frames, made the cuts to them and reinstalled everything.  It's my DD.

All photos are here. deepbluegxp/2008/2008-09-21 Lambo Door Hinges - Page 1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Start by removing the quarter panels.  I placed yellow marks for the screw locations. 



Since I have Norms Side Skirts, I have them pulled down. BTW, they are held on by industrial velcro along the sides   I also had to remove the mud flaps (trimmed to fit the side skirts)



Quart panel removed. 



Drivers side quarter panel removed.



Pull off the frame bolts 2 x 10mm.



Mark the location of the edges of the frame to the brace with tape for installation allignment.  Nut is removed from beneath with a 10mm deep well socket.



Frame removed



Tape aplied to show where it needs to be cut.  I used a jig saw.  All edges were de-burred and painted to protect them.  I used a Enamel Gloss Black for the frame and touch-up paint for the fender.





Taped off section to remove on the quarter panel



Top cut out section completed.



Wiring harness protector has two push plugs into frame.  Remove the cover

[DeepBlueGXP]

Cover it with electrical tape.  This will be zip tied to the hinge at a later time.





Drivers side only.  All are 10mm bolts.  Remove the frame support bracket by removing these two bolts.



Remove the windshield reservoir (3 bolts) disconnect the pump connector and supply hose.





Once the reservoir is removed.  Remove the ECM bracket bolt (above picture) and the lower right bolt.



The ECM bracket has a plastic clip holding the windshield supply line, pop that off and then cut/trim the bracket along the right bent area removing the tab. 



Then use while pressing the ECM back against the angle support, use a punch in the existing hole and mark a location for drilling. 



Drill and Tap with a 6mm tap and appropriate bit.  I drilled through and tapped only the first surface.  Then I added 4 washers to the bolt to prevent it from bottoming out.

Take the reservoir and use a using a marker to indicate where to cut and to elongate a hole. 



Notice the elongation mark is on an angle.



Be careful not to cut into the tank.

[DeepBlueGXP]

Press the ECM bracket back to the angle brace and install the bolt in the newly tapped hole.  Then install the lower right ECM bracket bolt in the original position.  Install the reservoir elongated hole bolt first snug but not tightened.  Then install the reservoir upper right bolt back into the ECM bracket.  As you tighten, press the reservoir towards the ECM.  Then tighten the lower bolt.  The bottom right bolt is not used.  Reconnect the pump and supply line.



Prepare for stock hinge removal. 
Open doors, remove the door detent bolt and push it into the door (the flap will not go inside)  This is difficult and bracing the flap against the car frame, then closing the door will push it in.  (If you do not do this, you will not be able to open the door after replacing the hinge) Reopen the door and apply tape on windshield frame and squat down until your eyes are level with the flat surface of the door.  Use a permanent marker and draw a line on the tape level with the top of the door (this is important, the door will sag a little when you pull the old hinge off and serves as a reference to position the door). 



Close the door.



 Use paint sticks, 3" pieces, and wrap tape around them until they fit in the door edges.  Insert one even with the door handle and on the bottom of the door.  hold it in place with a piece of tape.  Use several pieces of tape from the door to the windshield.



Apply a piece of tape to the front edge of the door by the hinge bolts to protect it.  Remove the old hinges #10mm and #13mm bolts.

Install the new hinges, hand snug the 4 long bolts with washers against the car frame.  Install the 4 short bolts with washers into the door.   have a friend hold the door up to verify the top of the flat surface of the door is level with the line you previously drew on the tape.  Tighten down the door bolts then tighten the 4 bolts to the frame.    Adjust the bolt with the jamb nut to stop the door from sagging.  This adjustment will allign the door striker to the latch.  Then remove the tape and have a friend support the door to install the piston.  Readjust the door as required, never loosing more than 3 of the 4 bolts on the door or frame.

Apply tape on the inside of the hood for marking off the hole to be cut.




A picture of the template is attached so you can make one.  Cut out the green portion of a 8 1/2 x 11 sheet and write left and right sides on it.  It is best to print on a regular sheet, cut out, transfer to a thicker material.  The right lower corner of the picture goes to the corner of the hood.

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Use a cutting wheel to carefully remove the metal









While the tape is still on, spray the inside of the hole black or another color close to your body color to make the hole less visible.  Remove the tape and debur the hole and touch up with paint.



Do this to both sides of the hood. Close the hood and check for alignment to the door, if everything looks good, then reinstall the quarter panel frame and quart panels.  Then there is one more set screw to adjust to prevent the door from opening too far and hitting the fenders.

[DeepBlueGXP]

Here is the finished product...   We worked as a team and we have this down to an art now.  3.5 hours to do Critterman.   

[DeepBlueGXP]

Hinge area photos

[chuckdoc]

I love my lambo doors, as deepblue knows, mine was one of the cars in the picture.  It really is one of the biggest attention getters added to the car.  Almost every time I stop to get gas (for the car, not me) I get someone walking over to ask about the doors. 

There does seem to be a problem with early rusting and I think this spring we will break out the rustoleum paint and touch up the rust spots after a little steelwool action.

[Critterman]

You have rust?

[DeepBlueGXP]

I have some small spots also, the parts must be just spray painted and not powdercoated

[Critterman]

Guess I better check, maybe Wed night if I pick up the lights today.

[chuckdoc]

Also adjustments for door openings are critical.  Deep recently figured out how to get the door to open wider.  Critterman, he can probably adjust yours as well.  He did his and mine.

Chuck

[BLK GXP]

How do they open any wider? I still have some adjusting to do on mine.

[GXPinKC]

DeepBlueGXP, I was amazed at the work involved in adding this mod.  Fantastic pictures on this thread.  Wow, yours took 12 hours to complete, chuckdoc's, 6 hours, Critterman's, 3.5 hours, and Go-N Def's, 3 hours.  Lots of smiles I am sure at the finished product.  Thanks for the great post DeepBlueGXP.

If you don't mind me adding a picture to your gallery, here it is.  Check it out, garync Lambo Doors on his Aggressive GXP.  Pictured are Gary, Allison (Gary's grand-daugther), GXPinKC, and another person.  Picture was taken by my wife at the Nashville Meet.  That is my aggressive 2007 GXP sitting next to Gary's.  We parked side by side the entire Meet.  By all standards this Meet was exceptional, with the charisma of Nashville and the great people that attended the Meet.  I will never fortget that Meet.  I don't believe any Meet in the future will be able to compare to it.  We will see?

Anyway, here's the picture that my wife took, that became Gary's Avatar.  Couldn't get it to work.  It is posted on another forum.  Will try again.
GXPinKC

[spicy3480]

It's a very clean look.  I have seen some other kits really require butchering the fenders up and it looks terrible.  these, on the other hand, are made really nicely and the final pictures are really clean looking.

[CPB]

how heavy are these to open and close? how do they open? to the side first and then up or what? thay look great

[smartin]

They definitely look hot and so do the doors. 

[Sly Bob]

how heavy are these to open and close? how do they open? to the side first and then up or what? thay look great

I can say from the ride I took in Joe's car when I visited him last summer that yes they open out then up. The are not heavy at all and although the first few times you open them it seems a little weird you quickly get used to the idea and start to enjoy them. They really are cool and seem as though they were on the car from new, not like an add on.

They really are a nice addition to the car. 

[DeepBlueGXP]

The piston was pressurized to the weight of the door, they lift very easily.  The don't open as wide as the normal door but you can use them either way.  I'll shoot a video tonight of how to open and close the door

[Go-N Def]

The doors aren't heavy at all when you're opening them.  Now, depending on how much lift your pistons have, closing them while in the car can be a different matter.  It seems like you're getting a Lat and Bicep workout the first few days, but you quickly get used to it.  Oh, and you get a smile workout continuously!  Everyone else around you will be sore from stroking your ego!!!

The only complaints that I have are:

1) You have to take care in not opening or closing the hood while the doors are in the up position.  Do like Chuckdoc and leave a note on the stearing wheel if you drop it off to have work done.

2) You have to instruct the passenger on how to correctly close the door.  A little too much upward or downward pressure from them while closing them will cause the "Nader pin" to strike the door instead of the locking mechanism causing a ding and the paint to chip.  I suggested to DDM and a few others that this could be helped by sticking a small piece of rubber above and below the locking mechanism.

[chuckdoc]

Only passengers in Go-Def's car should be ladies.  I can not believe you do not open and close the door for them!

[Critterman]

Chuck,
we are talking about Mike here, given a chance he would open the door for a lady, but he has to have the chance first.

Besides we all know he won't let anyone touch any part of his car, they might leave fingerprints.

[Go-N Def]

Fast women - 

Respectible ladies -   Not so much......

[Gunnys GXP]

Ok, so I finaly finished the speaker upgrade adn started the hinge install Sunday afternoon and back to it after diner tonight.  Everything is going really well so far but I do have one minor issue I want to get some advice on.  The driver side is essentualy done and all back together but I'm having a bit of a rubbing issue from the larger door harness on that side.  How exactly did you all route that harness.  The passenger side one is much smaller so I don't see that side being a problem but we'll find out tomorrow night when I finish cutting and installing the frame and fender.  My batteries to my sawzall died or I'd be down there finishing right now.  So far so good and so far I've managed to get it all done by myself.

Any thoughts? 

[Gunnys GXP]

I think I answered my own question.  I just went back through DeepblueGXP photos through his link on the first thread and I see that the harness was run behind and through the gap between the frame mounted section of the hinge and the frame.  I went around the outside cause it looked to be too tight of a fit and was afraid the length would be too short for the lift.  I don't think I can get it through there without removing the hinges adn getting the alignment all off again so I'll figure another way.  It functions fine as it is.  I'm just picky that it brushes against the fender during the raising motion.  Hopefuly it won't interfear with the hood down.  I haven't cut the passenger side yet in the hood so I can't drop it fully to see.

[Critterman]

route it inside the hinge and then under it.  It will be long enough

[chuckdoc]

And use a couple of ties to hold it in place.