Topic: Basic Maintaince Intervals

[DarkSlySol]

Heres a basic service interval listing I've gathered for those who do their own work or just curious to what generally needs to be done, the actual intervals vary from model to model. A lot of them are set for more of a preventive stand point than the life of the part(s)/fluid. But its better to speed money here and there rather than a whole bunch later on.

•   Air Filter - Replace every 15K (or as needed depending on driving condition)
•   Coolant - Replace every 45K (Dex-cool 100K/5yrs)
•   Battery - Replace every 45K(this is more of a preventive measure to keep from being stranded down the road)
•   Belts - replace every 60-100k (usual done every 100k)
•   Brakes - Replace every 60K( or as needed depending on driving conditions)
•   Differential – replace fluid every 30K
•   Fuel filter – replace every 25K( more a rule of thumb measure for peak performance and fuel econ)
•   Hoses – replace every 60-100k
•   Oil – replace every 3-10k (depends on the year of the car and oil being used, most newer cars can go to 5k with no problem)
•   Power steering – replace every 30k
•   Spark plugs – replace every 30-40k (varies with vehicle, more of a rule of thumb for peak performance and fuel econ)
•   Tires – rotate every 5k and replace every 45 – 60k (depends on driving style/conditions, and the brand/style of tire)
•   Transmission fluid – every 30k(rule of thumb for peak performance)
•   Wiper blades – replace every 1-2yrs (depending on amount of use)
•   Serpentine/timing belt – replace every 60-100k (usual done every 100k)
•   Various Sensors – replace every 30-45k (more as a rule of thumb as preventive maintenance and for peak performance and fuel econ)

This a website to find the specific maintenance interval , recalls, and service bulletins for any car : Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins

This is a list of some of the service bulletins for the Solstice :
Maintenance, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins

[kennysabarese]

Manual doesn't say that things like steering fluid diff or trans fluid ever need to be changed. Can you look at the fluid and tell if it needs replacing?

[Mac]

Changing sensors for maintenance seems abit to much. Any idea how many the LNF has and we know that non are cheep.  Change those when they code out.

Wipers here replaced every year if you park out side.

We have a timing chain, two i think, i heard its life time or 100k+

Most things made of rubber hoses, belts etc.  5 years

[Uranium-238]

I thought we didn't have a fuel filter?

[1LILNDN]

  Power steering – replace every 30k
   •   Transmission fluid – every 30k(rule of thumb for peak performance)

   Basic Maintaince Intervals 
 If not in the Manual its on the list above

[DarkSlySol]

"Manual doesn't say that things like steering fluid diff or trans fluid ever need to be changed. Can you look at the fluid and tell if it needs replacing?"

-You can get away with not changing the steering fluid. But the trans fluid does have to be changed, it may not have to be super often but that does need to be changes after so many miles.

"Changing sensors for maintenance seems abit to much. Any idea how many the LNF has and we know that non are cheep.  Change those when they code out.

Wipers here replaced every year if you park out side.

We have a timing chain, two i think, i heard its life time or 100k+

Most things made of rubber hoses, belts etc.  5 years"

-Some of the sensors arent that expensive, it depends on what car it is for, for instance the O2 sensor for my buddies mustang is like $30, but the O2 on ours is like $80. Its best to change the belts and chain at 100k. Sum of the stuff on there is preventive maintance and not nessecarily required maintance.

"I thought we didn't have a fuel filter?"

-i believe its part of the fuel pump in our cars

[DRGNSLR]

FYI:

"I thought we didn't have a fuel filter?"

Kappas have no "fuel filter" in the conventional sense of the word as most of us have experienced.  Instead we have a “fuel strainer” attached to the lower end of the fuel pump module within the fuel tank.  The strainer is a plastic woven material that normally requires no maintenance.   The only way I see that you can change it out would be to replace the entire fuel pump, quite a pricey proposition for routine preventative maintenance.  (Source: 2008 Soltice/Sky service manual, pages 9-220 and 9-556)

FWIW:

1.  I bleed/flush the brake fluid every 5 years if I keep the car that long.  Brake fluid is hydroscopic, particularly our DOT3 fluid, and will attract and retain moisture within the brake system potentially creating internal corrosion problems which eventually will wear/tear seals.

2.  Most of this list appears to be generic in content and not necessarily Kappa specific; particularly the references to fuel filters and “Serpentine/timing belt” vs. “timing chain.”  Certainly an opinion of good maintenance practices but doing some of these steps, particularly replacing sensors as a mere preventive maintenance measure, would be a very expensive maintenance schedule for the typical driver (sponsored race teams excepted).  I know I couldn’t afford it or justify the expense as we have hundreds of sensors in the car managing/monitoring EVERYTHING - the engine, HVAC, traction control, ABS, radio, etc.

[TomatoSoup]

I bleed/flush the brake fluid every 5 years if I keep the car that long. 

I had asked this on "the other" forum but got no responses...  Are there any DIY's (notes/gotchas) on changing the brake fluid?  I want to do mine, and wanted to get a preview before I start.  I did a search but couldn't find anything.

Thanks.

[Uranium-238]

I've had my Sky for a little over a year and have already replaced the brake fluid twice...

[DarkSlySol]

Yea its was more of a basic generic list, theres a link at the bottom that showed a more general basic schedule....Sensor-wise i was referring to sensors, such as the O2, MAP, and thermostat. For sum cars its cheaper for the sensors and sum are more expensive. Like the O2 sensor for our cars are almost $80 I believe, but for a mustang they are like $30. Dont have to replace them, its just sum times if its a reasonable price, might as well replace to prevent problems down the road

[DRGNSLR]

Are there any DIY's (notes/gotchas) on changing the brake fluid?

On older cars you can flush/ & bleed the system two ways:

a.  Least expensive - a couple of large cans of the appropriate brake fluid (DOT3, DOT4, etc.),  a large clean, clear class or plastic container (a Mason jar for canning works well), a length of fluid “proof” rubber hose, and an assistant.  Top off the brake reservoir, pour about two inches of clean brake fluid in the Mason jar, place one end of the rubber hose on the wheel brake caliper/cylinder bleeder valve nipple with the other end in the jar but under the fluid level, open the bleeder valve, and have your assistant pump your brakes.  Check the fluid level in the reservoir frequently, close the valve when dumping the contents of the jar, and keep pumping the brakes until clear brake fluid appears in the jar and no air bubbles are present.  You should drain all four wheels in this manner starting with the wheel closest to the brake fluid reservoir and ending with the wheel farthest away.  This is also the PITA method!
b.  More expensive - buy a brake bleeder kit ($50 - $100) and a couple of cans of brake fluid.  Top off the reservoir and use the brake bleeder kit to pull a vacuum on each wheel caliper.   Use the tool until you see clear fluid (you should not see bubbles as you are pulling a vacuum and youwon’t need someone to pump the brakes for you).

On newer cars, I don’t think this is a DIY job.  I think you need to use a qualified brake guy with ABS knowledge & experience.  It has cost me about $100 in the past but I haven’t done it in a number of years although the Mrs. Car is due.  For example, my local Goodyear dealer has done a great job for me over the years but they won’t touch a flush on an ABS equipped car because they don’t have the specialized equipment or bench tools that the dealer has.

Like the O2 sensor for our cars are almost $80 I believe, but for a mustang they are like $30.

The last one I paid for was almost two bills.

[Uranium-238]

I've had no problems doing the brakes on my car myself, with nothing more than a powerbleeder. ABS still works just fine. Heck, I helped Kenny bleed his brakes the old-fashioned way, and haven't heard any complaints or issues from him.

[TomatoSoup]

On older cars you can flush/ & bleed the system two ways:

Sorry I wasn't clear... I didn't mean generic instructions for brakes (I've done many through the years ) I was more meaning specific instructions/issues for the Kappas.

[kennysabarese]

I am not aware of a special procedure needed on newer cars with ABS. If you can find some docs I'd love to know. But most racing types bleed brakes frequently on cars old and new and don't have a problem

[Sol Asylum]

There is a difference between bleeding brakes and flushing them.  You can attempt to "bleed" out all the old fluid replacing it with new but flushing the system is when you drain it all out, flush the lines out, and then install new fluid.  Flushing will remove all traces of the old fluid where as if you try and bleed it all out some of the old fluid will still be there no mater what.

[Gentleman Jack]

What do you "Flush" with?  Some type of solvent?

[DRGNSLR]

I am not aware of a special procedure needed on newer cars with ABS.

I think it depends upon the car.  Older ABS systems, like on my ’87 Supra, may not have required any special steps to flush or bleed the hydraulic system.  On the other hand, the Kappa platform links the hydraulic portion of the ABS, TCS and VSES sub-systems together which significantly complicates a simple flush or bleed job.  Additionally, our cars require several special tools to properly flush or bleed the hydraulic system (Tech2 scan tool or equivalent, J-29532 pressure bleeder & J-35798 adapter).  Not every DIYer has a scan tool, much less the pressure bleeder, etc.  That is why I think that this kind of maintenance or repair is outside the ability of the typical DIYer.  As for me, I’ll change brake pads and such but I’m not ready to take on the ABS on this car.

I’ve posted some docs with instructions on hydraulic system flushing, bleeding, ABS automated bleed procedure, and a full description and operation of the Sky’s ABS system.  For me this is a sfety related issue and I believe the education value of the information provided below to fall within the "fair use" doctrine.  Source: Solstice/Sky service manual.

[DRGNSLR]

What do you "Flush" with?  Some type of solvent?

No, flush only with clean, fresh brake fluid, of the proper type, from a sealed and previously unopened can .  My 2008 Sky uses DOT3 fluid but you should check your owner's manual to be sure for your vehicle.  Mixing of DOT3 with other types of fluid is a definite “no-no”, especially with any fluid containing silicones.

Because most brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water), you should not use brake fluid from a previously opened can if you've had it sitting on the self for some time.  How much time?  That’s up to you but I don't use anything more than a few weeks or a month after first opening the can.  The fluid you pour out is replaced with air that has some moisture content.  Here in the deep south, with our high humidity most of the year, I have seen moisture droplets form on the inside of the can in as little as a few days.

Here is a link on general brake bleeding procedures:

http://corp.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/asp/ccr/ccr20011001bb.asp

 

[TomatoSoup]

I’ve posted some docs with instructions on hydraulic system flushing, bleeding, ABS automated bleed procedure, and a full description and operation of the Sky’s ABS system.

Really good info... Thank you very much for posting this 

[NormSky]

You don't need to buy anything besides a quart of brake fluid to do both clutch and brake system bleeds. I've road raced ABS cars and used the same procedure so for street racers there is nothing more needed.

I even bled mine by myself. Just used a broom with a rolled up towel againist the seat for the brakes. The clutch is self bleeding but not all the fluid can be changed unless the transmission is removed.

Norm

[Uranium-238]

And FWIW, switching from dot 3 to a compatible dot 4 does NOT require anything crazy.

My procedure for the switch from Dot 3 to 4 was to:

remove as much of the dot 3 compound from the reservoir as possible with a vacuum pump.

fill reservoir with the dot 4 blue juice

Dump the rest of the new fluid into the power bleeder, and set all that up.

Start al the right rear caliper, crack the bleeder open and wait till the new, blue-colored fluid starts draining out. Let it run a bit longer, then tighten it back up.

Rinse and repeat on the rest of the calipers.


All these fancy-shmancy doings for doing brakes sound like excuses for dealers/shops to charge more. This is how I've always seen brakes done, and this is also how all my friends do it.

OK, some still do it the old-fashioned way without a power bleeder, but you get the idea...