Author Topic: Help me to reduce my drag racing times (Read 80182 times)

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #75 on:** June 06, 2010, 08:01:15 PM »

Kelu I don't know about the overdrive units, I don't even know if there is one that would work with our transmissions. I was just thinking about how they were a nice feature on the old British cars and how they would most likely help in your problem. Maybe someone needs to investigate things further.

An O/D unit might also get you better gas mileage, you know pay for it's self over time.

Kelu · « **Reply #76 on:** June 06, 2010, 08:19:12 PM »

Mike: I'm not spending my money on mods which "might support up to X hp" or "it should make up to Yhp", thanks but no thanks. There are some options in that direction which are about to come to surface, I wait for those, everything which is in the market now didn't convinced me to subtract my money. 100-130 whp more will make my mission complete so I'm pretty much in the market of that for the moment.

Sol Asylum: speaking of mpg, my case is: average mpg 13-15 with the price of $5.7 per gallon

HAMMER DOWN · « **Reply #77 on:** June 06, 2010, 08:40:04 PM »

Wooooooo, not asking you to spend money, just if you look at them.

Mike

pantherqs · « **Reply #78 on:** June 08, 2010, 04:53:24 AM »

Spray it with a 55 shot homefry. Also, meth, 91 lambda's and 8 trillion degrees of timing.

Kelu · « **Reply #79 on:** June 08, 2010, 05:17:42 AM »

pantherqs: nice, i'm not knowledgeable about nawz at all. If you are willing to share some info about it I will be glad to learn this too.

About meth, the increase in octane is almost negligible as I read, even in a 100% meth the octane is raised with maximum 1, most important effect from a w/m system looks like is cooling. Am I wrong?

For the moment I thinking to turbo upgrade because I missed the national drag racing team, failed to bring my car to a low 12s or even 11s.

Graywolf · « **Reply #80 on:** June 14, 2010, 05:10:21 PM »

Kelu,when i changed to gmpp sensors Bsr does give you a different tune. After installation of the new map sensors you connect up the bsr pc to the obi port and attempt to tune . You get a message stating new sensors detected and to sync the bsr pc. This sync is installed already on your home computer. When you sync it ,it reads new map sensors detected and states you will get a new tune in 3 to 4 days. However, I am in total agreement about the rest. Werks was asking $400 for a down pipe.The reason I plan to gut my cat,no cost just time,and the other reason classified. I do plan to hp tune on a dyno in the next few weeks

kennysabarese · « **Reply #81 on:** June 14, 2010, 05:12:08 PM »

SOLO's race cat is $200. Talk to spicy

Kelu · « **Reply #82 on:** June 14, 2010, 06:04:27 PM »

Graywolf I have Solo catless downpipe, $200 as Kenny said (he has one too), 100% bolt on and a great product.

If I would be you, BSR would be first thing to drop and get a real LNF experienced tuner. You basically don't know what is in your ecu and without logging it is all about "feeling". We have so many advantages having such an advanced engine, just log it to benefit from it, actually it tells you many things. Stop using canned tunes like BSR.

Graywolf · « **Reply #83 on:** June 14, 2010, 10:57:40 PM »

Kelu,I plan on getting a hp/dyno tune very soon and I am in agreement with you completly regarding getting one. Federal/state offense not to have a cat on a streetable car. I am pretty sure the bsr tune is running lean on my set-up especially running bigger valves and high flow head, also my tail pipe is clean[instead of black soot we are all use to seeing] One thing for sure, the Bsr tune does know how to get boost,no lag,25lbs. Since I have the hp pro suite software,I hope to share what ever data i can with all of you once i get a custom tune.

Graywolf · « **Reply #84 on:** June 15, 2010, 12:02:26 AM »

Nitrous spray is the way to go if your rules allow it. Piston up grade and replacing oil pump gears with billet gears are highly recommended if you go this way. However,your hp increase will be big. Pistons are about $560 and billet oil pump gears less$300. You might be able to replace both without removing the engine. If you go the bigger turbo route with higher rpm range , then you need better valves.valve springs,stiffer spring in chain tensioner, pistons and billet oil pump gears. Nitrous is the most affordable way to go.Both setups should have aftermarket rods.

Kelu · « **Reply #85 on:** June 15, 2010, 04:27:07 AM »

If you are not allowed to run a catless downpipe, go for high flow one from Solo, is more expensive but is almost same in terms of power gains. I don't get it, you said you gonna gutted your downpipe?

NOS is allowed in some races this year, I don't think they still allow it next year and keeping same group. This would a solution for the moment until I will find a good turbo kit.

Even if I would go bigger turbo I will not work on the head (valve springs is maximum) because the investment is big with not too high gains.

Graywolf · « **Reply #86 on:** June 15, 2010, 11:10:33 PM »

Already gutted the cat,you cut a rectangular opening in the cat and grind out the converter and re weld the rectangular opening closed. Agree with you on the return on working on the head. If your rpm range is below 7,200 you would probably be ok with stock springs. If the turbo requires above that you must replace them. Currently looking @ 4 different places that hp/dyno tune. Probably the two best ones are near Chicago about 175 miles away. Will trailor car Also fabricating a wind splitter for front of car[mild understeer plus increasing camber front]

pantherqs · « **Reply #87 on:** June 16, 2010, 05:05:53 AM »

Definitely don't need to do any internal's for a 55 shot. Running an extremely aggressive tune and shifting at 7k-7.2k with stock internals here with 150 compression across the board and no leakdown deviation for 2+ years. I'm sure there's some valve float, but meh, whatever. Springs are cheap, that's the only thing I plan on doing anytime soon. ZZP can do springs without yanking the head.

Kelu · « **Reply #88 on:** June 16, 2010, 05:38:34 AM »

Quote

13.37s in a 98F day with factory Bridgestone tires and rims. Last time when I did 13.30 I was racing at 68F with 17 light rims and street legal slicks. Matching the time on these conditions was a success for me.

So I think I'm faster but because of circumstances my timeslip can't confirm it yet.

Wot Box and shifting sooner did helped. Thank you guys.

Thinking to get the NOS in the races when I'm allowed to use it and keep the group, costs: dunno the WOT Box controller for NOS shot and I have found a used NOS system for about $400 including the bottle locally.

NormSky · « **Reply #89 on:** June 16, 2010, 07:54:25 AM »

Nice improvement!

Kelu · « **Reply #90 on:** June 28, 2010, 05:26:42 PM »

How do I set up my double adjustable coilovers for drag racing?

1) height? I would say low on rear and high in front
2) Front: stiff on bump and soft on rebound
3) Rear: medium stiff on bump and stiffest on rebound

Am I correct?

NormSky · « **Reply #91 on:** June 28, 2010, 08:07:03 PM »

I want to see wheel stands!

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/Launching_A_Drag_Car.htm

Arabas · « **Reply #92 on:** June 30, 2010, 09:45:25 AM »

Kelu, how about trying a short throw shifter (if there is one for our cars..)

Critterman · « **Reply #93 on:** June 30, 2010, 09:46:59 AM »

JPM Coachworks one of our sponsors, who does excellent interiors, has made a short shifter for our cars.

Kelu · « **Reply #94 on:** June 30, 2010, 09:53:04 AM »

This one?
http://www.jpmcoachworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28_40&products_id=76

Arabas · « **Reply #95 on:** June 30, 2010, 09:58:07 AM »

is this just shorter on the upper section just for the looks and the feeling, or it actually has a shorter throw that allows to shift gear in less time?

Kelu · « **Reply #96 on:** June 30, 2010, 09:59:26 AM »

Good question Arabas, I thought this is more for the look and feel. Besides that, this shifter is listed only for Solstice.

Critterman · « **Reply #97 on:** June 30, 2010, 10:01:10 AM »

Ara - Check with the Boss he has one, he can answer the question. I believe it is just the upper section as it mounts directly into the transmission and there are no shifter arms so to speak so you cannot shorten them.

Kel - That is the one

Arabas · « **Reply #98 on:** June 30, 2010, 10:07:05 AM »

OK Critterman, thx.
anyone who has it, pls confirm.
and if anyone has come up with a short throw shifter, pls let us know.
it would be a worth-checking-that product

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #99 on:** June 30, 2010, 03:38:06 PM »

It's just a shorter top end. It has a much better feel than the stock shifter.

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Author Topic: Help me to reduce my drag racing times (Read 80182 times)