Author Topic: Race engine Hp tune on Dyno (Read 14488 times)

Graywolf · « **on:** July 07, 2010, 09:02:05 PM »

Today my Gxp had a Dyno/hp tune at a local place called Rev Hard in Rock Island Illinois The first time I took it there they couldn't tune it because my knock sensors were detuning the engine. There tuner thought it was from the solid lifters on my race head. I didn't believe it could be that since my car had excellent power running Time attack on Road racing course. Then after months of deliberation I figured out what was going on. I always warm my engine up for five minutes,temp up to 185 degrees and three minutes more for the metal parts in the engine to catch up with H2O temp. I had noticed my lifter noise decreased. So today when the car was cold they connected to the hp tuner and sure enough the knock sensor was going off. After warm up no more knock sensor problems. Results are wonderful, increase of 38hp and increase 78lbs of torque. Rear wheel hp of 292 running on 100 octane. I don't know what that calculates to engine hp. They also adjusted the waste gate. I pick the car up tomorow. I will have all the data then

snaponbob · « **Reply #1 on:** July 07, 2010, 09:49:12 PM »

Seems like the 300whp barrier is a

with the stock turbo. My engine is box stock, stock air box with resonator cut off, catless, custom 3" SP exhaust, Wester's 98 octane tune, and VP100 netted 284whp and 368wtq. The HP curve is nearly flat from 3400 to 6300 rpm. Amazing. And Lyndon is tweaking my tune. WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Graywolf · « **Reply #2 on:** July 07, 2010, 10:13:31 PM »

292 rear wheel hp is close to 340 to 350hp at the flywheel from what I have read or about 80 to 90 hp over stock. Power train losses range between 15% to 30%. The higher the hp the less in % loss. No doubt a bigger turbo will get you more hp. Has anyone place a stock gxp on a dyno to measure their rear wheel hp? This would give us a more accurate estimate between rear wheel and the 260 hp Gm claims the engine puts out. The difference should be the answer

5

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #3 on:** July 07, 2010, 10:28:56 PM »

I'm surprised you both are only getting in the 280s with race gas! I have a westers and I'm getting 286RWHP on pump gas. You should be hitting 300 with the race fuel.

Critterman · « **Reply #4 on:** July 07, 2010, 10:30:47 PM »

I believe stock it is in the 212-216 hp range

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 07, 2010, 10:47:20 PM »

My stock Redline dynoed at 211 hp at the rear wheels.

snaponbob · « **Reply #6 on:** July 07, 2010, 10:48:02 PM »

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on July 07, 2010, 10:28:56 PM

I'm surprised you both are only getting in the 280s with race gas! I have a westers and I'm getting 286RWHP on pump gas. You should be hitting 300 with the race fuel.

Depends on which dyno. Also depends on if one is using E10 or straight gas, and what octane. I was amazed at only a 12 whp increase, but the usable powerband is MUCH wider than the 91 octane pulls I have done. The eye popper ws the 50+ wtq increase!!! The PEAK power may not be sensational, but the USABLE power is impressive. Lyndon has already sent me a new file to try, so there may be more later!!

91 octane E10

VP100

Comparison

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #7 on:** July 08, 2010, 02:21:38 AM »

here we are back at the different dyno, different results page. Weather, dyno, operator, etc.

Only solutions:
1. Drag race
2. Same dyno, same day, same weather blah blah blah...

Someone was going to do a test a while back... what ever happened to that?

GJ

Arabas · « **Reply #8 on:** July 08, 2010, 02:38:05 AM »

Quote from: Gentleman Jack aka Bubble Gum on July 08, 2010, 02:21:38 AM

here we are back at the different dyno, different results page. Weather, dyno, operator, etc.

Only solutions:
1. Drag race
2. Same dyno, same day, same weather blah blah blah...

Someone was going to do a test a while back... what ever happened to that?

GJ

someone???? IIRC, that was you, and i was really looking forward to seeing the results (with all the difficulties of the project included).

GJ, it's 9.30 a.m. here...what are you doing up so late (there) every day????
go get some sleep!!!

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #9 on:** July 08, 2010, 02:42:52 AM »

Quote from: Arabas on July 08, 2010, 02:38:05 AM

someone???? IIRC, that was you, and i was really looking forward to seeing the results (with all the difficulties of the project included).

GJ, it's 9.30 a.m. here...what are you doing up so late (there) every day????
go get some sleep!!!

WEST Coast Arabas. Even further away from you.... or closer depending on how you look at it. It is not even midnight here.

I have not given up hope for the testing. There were a few vendors that were on board with the test, but there were a few not interested. That meant buying the tunes and that, as expected, quickly got out of control cost wise. Someday perhaps.

I am planning on heading to the dyno after this vacation (heading to Chicago) to compare my stock and Wester's, just to see. I will post when I get them done. Back on topic.

GJ

Kelu · « **Reply #10 on:** July 08, 2010, 03:27:15 AM »

Stock numbers are starting around 200-205 whp lowest (Lyndon's dyno from his website) up to 220whp, even 230whp, all depends on type of dyno, calibration of the dyno, standards used (SAE/STD smoothing) etc.

Graywolf an interesting topic for your knock case: http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30115

kennysabarese · « **Reply #11 on:** July 08, 2010, 10:04:13 AM »

Bob, start your own thread for your results. Lyndon has been tweaking my tune a lot lately, I hope to be pushing close to you soon.

LatinVenom · « **Reply #12 on:** July 08, 2010, 06:07:12 PM »

292 RWHP translates to 351.8 BHP. This is based on the 215.8(216 rounded) base line for the GXP with a 17% drive line loss.
260 BHP - 17% = 215.8 RWHP
If you like to use 18% then you end up with 260 BHP - 18% = 213.2 RWHP.
I like to use the 17% loss because is about the average reported by a lot of Dyno's of stock cars.
However on an Eddy current Dyno the number is more like 205 - 208 or like 20 % drive line loss, if the GM 260 BHP is a true number.

Graywolf · « **Reply #13 on:** July 10, 2010, 10:04:16 AM »

Last night I took the car to a Cordova Drag strip. Made 2 runs on street stock street tires @ 34lbs in each tire. Red lighted my first run and on my second run left the line with no tire spin , almost stalled. Need Kelu to drive the car since I even needed instruction to stage the car. RT .606 E.T. 13.55 Mph104.24 in1/4 I am sure I could improve on this time with practice and get a much better launch. As everyone says ,third gear sucks, needs different gear ratios in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears or a bigger turbo-both is the answer to hit 11's

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #14 on:** July 10, 2010, 12:28:37 PM »

You will have less hop at the start if you reduce your tire pressures to about 20 psi.

Kelu · « **Reply #15 on:** July 10, 2010, 02:48:45 PM »

I ran my oem Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Pole Position on 15 psi, with recommended 30psi I run bad times on 60ft.
What were your 60ft times?
Reaction times doesn't matter in your ET, you can launch as late as you want after green light, the clock starts when you move the car and not on green light.
Your monster must mark at least a low 13s, all depends on track and tires.

Graywolf · « **Reply #16 on:** July 10, 2010, 08:00:57 PM »

Did not have any wheel hop. Came off line smoking tires to hard 1st run, second run almost stalled when popped clutch with no wheel spin 60ft time was 2.214 Kelu we need to find someone that can make custom gears for 3rd,4th,5th gears for the trans or change the trans completely.

LatinVenom · « **Reply #17 on:** July 10, 2010, 08:46:59 PM »

Tire pressure with street tires has to be low, not sure why run on the drag strip with street tires.
You need at least a good set of drag radials and keep the RPM's at launch between 3 and 2700 RPM.
Also and Automatic with a modified TCM, drag radials and a tune should be a consistent mid to high 12 second car.

Graywolf · « **Reply #18 on:** July 10, 2010, 11:29:37 PM »

I understand your input. I race time attack and will not go to drag track unless i need to test car.

Kelu · « **Reply #19 on:** July 11, 2010, 03:27:37 AM »

Quote from: Graywolf on July 10, 2010, 08:00:57 PM

Kelu we need to find someone that can make custom gears for 3rd,4th,5th gears for the trans or change the trans completely.

I have a spare tranny, let me know if you find something good to a decent price, I wouldn't change 5th gear, I would keep it for highway cruising, 3rd gear I would like to change it but not too much, 4th gear is pita for drag racing.

kennysabarese · « **Reply #20 on:** July 11, 2010, 08:24:47 AM »

How did this thread turn into gear ratios!

Graywolf might wanna change 3 and 4 and 5 for track racing, but not you Kelu. If you are gunna change gear ratios, lose the granny gear in first, then change the others so you only need to use 3 gears.

Graywolf, I think you should drop in a 6 speed TR6060 or T56 and change the rear end to 4.10. This has been recommended to me by some smart folks. I wonder what Bates would recommend.

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #21 on:** July 11, 2010, 08:26:09 AM »

Why bother changing 4th and 5th? All the rag cars with transmission swaps I know of usually use three gears for hard acceleration. Shifting costs time, so you want to cut back on it as much as you feasibly can. Just make 1st, second and third all slightly taller.

HAMMER DOWN · « **Reply #22 on:** July 11, 2010, 09:29:11 AM »

Like mine in my STi 6MT swap in my 05 Legacy GT
1 - 3.636
2 - 2.375
3 - 1.761
4 - 1.346
5 - 0.971
6 - 0.756
R - 3.545
Front ratio - 3.900 LSD
Center ratio - 1.000 DCCD
Rear ratio - 3.900 LSD

The GT moves right along for a AWD, over 3400lbs. car.

Mike

2.0 tspeed · « **Reply #23 on:** July 11, 2010, 10:07:23 AM »

op change tune cough cough j/k lolz

kennysabarese · « **Reply #24 on:** July 11, 2010, 11:24:55 AM »

Bob, what's your max MAF value in your HPT logs?

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Author Topic: Race engine Hp tune on Dyno (Read 14488 times)