Not sure anyone's reading, but I'll put it out there anyway.
I just got back from successfully installing my BC Racing coilovers, and slapping a quick alignment on my GXP.
I have to say this is a very worthwhile mod, and the BC's deliver a whole lot of performance for the money.
We set the ride height as low as seemed practical for the street, and even then, I am rubbing the bottom edge of the air dam on steep driveways and speed bumps. But dropping the car really improves the looks of the OZ wheels and Dunlop Dirrezas I am running.
I ordered my BCs with 6kg/mm front springs and 8kg/mm rears, maintaining the stock springs "softer front/stiffer rear" bias, in a continuing quest to try to conquer my car's understeering tendencies. To start, I set the damping at 10 out of 30 clicks for the front, and 20 for the rear. I had my friend Larry, an accomplished local Cobra driver and seriously competitive autocrosser test drive it before and after with me riding passenger. The car corners noticeably flatter now, with zero body roll, tosses right to left under power with alomb, and plants into a set and stays put. The pushing is nearly gone. This was tested by Larry going flat out down a twisty country road near the top of the tach in 4th and then braking hard (activiting ABS) into an off camber down hill right hander on rough pavement. The car tracked right through the corner like it was on rails, without any of the familiar protesting noises from the front tires. In fact, the rear even walked out a little, and then hooked up as throttle was applied. Perfect!
I also have to say that although I nearly doubled the stock spring rates, the ride is not nearly as harsh as I was expecting. The suspension is very firm, but even over bumps and uneven surfaces, the BCs damp well and I experienced no wheel hop or skipping around, and all my fillings stayed in my teeth!
The installation was time consuming, but really straightforward.
Remove 18 mm upper LCA ball joint nut. We used a soft BFH (could not find the pickle fork and wanted to save the boot) to dislodge the ball joint. No problem. Surprised to see no castle nut or cotter pin. We made sure to torque these and all other fasteners to spec!
Disconnect sway bars. Please don't be stupid like us and pop off the rubber cups from the steel ball studs. There is an Allen keyhole in the end of the machine screw. Use an 18mm ratcheting wrench and an Allen key. Its tight and on the rears you can only get 1/4 turn at a time. Be patient.
Remove bottom two 13mm shock mount bolts and nuts. Remove 15 mm upper shock mount nuts. Push lower control arms down, and walk out the sprung Bilsteins, intact. Bingo, time to slap in the coilovers.
Front and rear are nearly exactly the same.
Installation was the reverse. We loosened the locking rings so the springs would not load when installing the coilovers.
We used a hole saw to cut a little hole in the trunk so that the rear adjuster dials were accessible without removing the wheel.
Conveniently, the carpet was already cut in that location. I will clean up the loose fibers and probably make a rubber grommet later.
Setting ride height was next. We used a precision steel rule, measuring between the upper locking ring and lower locking ring at the base of the shock. Got it right on the second try!
Alignment was tedious, as always. Target was negative 2.3 deg. camber front, neg. 1.3 rear, with zero toe. Right side was nearly spot on. Left side took a few tries but we got it within a tenth or so.
Alignment is adjusted using eccentric cam bolts, two per control arm, per side. Nicer than shims!
Had to take some toe out after setting camber.
Anyway, a very worthwhile and enjoyable day. I really believe the BCs are steal for the money. The handling and neutrality of the car (and now adjustability) is really light years ahead of where I started.
