Author Topic: Changing the sway bar (Read 37757 times)

lil goat · « **Reply #50 on:** June 26, 2009, 11:52:18 AM »

I am a believer in this, GO LOOK UNDER THE DAMN CAR FOR YOURSELF, sorry but it is very hard to get any kind of perspective on this stuff from pictures, I was pretty detailed in my explanation. I really believe sometimes it helps to get to know your car and like SOB said crawl under there with a flash light, it didn't have any pictures or even instructions and I am no Rocket Surgeon but figured it out. I think sometimes the most valuable part of any DIY instructions is the tool list, any one know what an e-18 Torx socket is, I didn't but when my son read a DIY on his clutch change we found out you need one. I damn sure would have never guessed you would need a T30 torx to change the sway bar.

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #51 on:** June 26, 2009, 12:01:15 PM »

I'm also a firm believer in crawling under a car to see things for yourself.

So, I'll try and guide you to the rear sway bar. You won't have to jack the car up to see it. Crawl underneath the rear of the car, and in front of the exhaust, right behind a frame, is a black bar about 1' thick. Should be two black brackets holding it in place that are visible from the rear. That's the rear sway bar, and the brackets that we've been talking about.

Ben L · « **Reply #52 on:** June 26, 2009, 01:07:25 PM »

I also subscribe to the Russian Infant Swimming Lessons approach to DIY upgrading.

Jump in with both feet!!!

Once you have your hands on the anti-sway bar (its easy with the guidance above), the rest will be kind of obvious. In any event, the components involved are far from delicate.

Go for it!! No Fear!

SeLFMaDE · « **Reply #53 on:** June 26, 2009, 01:36:42 PM »

I've been under my car lots thanks. Installed the backbone, RPi exhaust, Norm's fascia, oil changes. And I know where and what the sway bars are. A picture is worth a thousand words isn't just something to fill fortune cookies with. Nothing sucks more than to get under the car, get 80% done and not be 100% sure if some hard to get at fiddly thing should have been reattached 180 degrees differently than what you did and pictures make something like that easy to avoid. Don't want to supply pics? Fine then don't. Want to help somebody out who has expressly asked for pics? Then do. Like it or not, to some -

Ben L · « **Reply #54 on:** June 26, 2009, 01:56:57 PM »

Easy big fella. No need to get the old knickers in a twist. . .

I do not have pix of the anti-sway bar replacement. If I did I would post 'em.

So would the others.

Sometimes folks seem a little too reticent to wrench their own rides, so pardon me for confusing you for such a person. Just trying to encourage a DIY ethic . . .

But with all your undercar time, I'd be willing to bet you'll have no problems with a swaybar job, even without pix.

Look forward to seeing yours when you tackle the job . . . .

lil goat · « **Reply #55 on:** June 26, 2009, 01:58:15 PM »

You will certainly not get any pictures from me giving me attitude. It's not hard and the instructions are explicit. I have never posted any pictures with any instructions, to be be honest I don't worry to much about pictures when I am working on something, sorry. This is why I rarely even write this stuff up, all you picture book types. I just figured since no one else had done one and written up anything this would be better than nothing. If I hadn't would you have guessed you needed a T30 Torx, I sure as heck didn't and after crawling under the car I had climb out to get a bunch of bits and figure out what size, then how to do it. I think most people can figure it out from what I wrote.

SeLFMaDE · « **Reply #56 on:** June 26, 2009, 02:10:41 PM »

Quote

I think most people can figure it out from what I wrote.

You might be right. But then most isn't all and for those, if somebody who does it would be nice enough to take a few pics then that would be helpful. I never said it had to be you Goat and frankly didn't expect it. The post said "if somebody does this upgrade" meaning in the future. Not somebody who has already done it.

And I'm not giving you attitude. If I was then I probably might have said something like, GO TAKE SOME DAMN PICTURES OF WHAT YOU DID.

Critterman · « **Reply #57 on:** June 26, 2009, 02:39:50 PM »

YEAH PICTUREs, MAKE JAMES USE THAT CAMERA HE BOUGHT.

Phew tired from shouting.

snaponbob · « **Reply #58 on:** June 26, 2009, 04:24:52 PM »

Quote from: lil goat on June 26, 2009, 11:52:18 AM

I am a believer in this, GO LOOK UNDER THE DAMN CAR FOR YOURSELF, sorry but it is very hard to get any kind of perspective on this stuff from pictures, I was pretty detailed in my explanation. I really believe sometimes it helps to get to know your car and like SOB said crawl under there with a flash light, it didn't have any pictures or even instructions and I am no Rocket Surgeon but figured it out. I think sometimes the most valuable part of any DIY instructions is the tool list, any one know what an e-18 Torx socket is, I didn't but when my son read a DIY on his clutch change we found out you need one. I damn sure would have never guessed you would need a T30 torx to change the sway bar.

He presented a respectful request. His push back was equal to yours. You nhave stated that you like being blunt, so you should not get YOU shorts in a knot when you receive some of you won medicine.

snaponbob · « **Reply #59 on:** June 26, 2009, 04:30:08 PM »

Quote from: SeLFMaDE on June 26, 2009, 02:10:41 PM

You might be right. But then most isn't all and for those, if somebody who does it would be nice enough to take a few pics then that would be helpful. I never said it had to be you Goat and frankly didn't expect it. The post said "if somebody does this upgrade" meaning in the future. Not somebody who has already done it.

And I'm not giving you attitude. If I was then I probably might have said something like, GO TAKE SOME DAMN PICTURES OF WHAT YOU DID.

Enough, please. Now, back to what is under the car. The sway bar installation is very straight forward. R&R is equally straight forward. I have both air in my shop and a Snap On 1/2" cordless impact, and so have actually been able to simply use a 19mm deep socket for the swat bar links and nothing else. A 15mm deep socket takes care of the brackets. If you only have hand tools then the other method (detailed above in another post) is all that's needed.

Kelu · « **Reply #60 on:** June 26, 2009, 08:17:17 PM »

I followed this topic from the beginning, now I have re-read it did some search and still confused.

My I shoot some questions:
1) This upgrade applies to all models? 2007/2008/2009? Sol NA/GXP, Sky NA/RL?
2) What product is this? Custom made? Eibach? Genuine GM upgrade part http://alturl.com/mzuy ?
3) This replaces a stock part as bolt-on?
4) This is the Z0K which has been rumored to be better than pro-beam?

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #61 on:** June 26, 2009, 08:26:32 PM »

Quote from: Kelu on June 26, 2009, 08:17:17 PM

I followed this topic from the beginning, now I have re-read it did some search and still confused.

My I shoot some questions:
1) This upgrade applies to all models? 2007/2008/2009? Sol NA/GXP, Sky NA/RL?

It's stiffer than the stock sway bars on all of those cars. So, yeah. Sway bars help "balance" the car's handling, so not sure how it would effect the NA Kappas.

Quote

2) What product is this? Custom made? Eibach? Genuine GM upgrade part http://alturl.com/mzuy ?

Genuine GM part number 25919110

Quote

3) This replaces a stock part as bolt-on?

Yep. Unbolt the stock one, bolt on the new one.

Quote

4) This is the Z0K which has been rumored to be better than pro-beam

No, this is just another suspension/chassis component found on the ZOK Solstices that's an upgrade for us. I believe the part you're talking about requires dropping the rear differential to install. This is not required for the sway bar.

Hope that helps!

Kelu · « **Reply #62 on:** June 26, 2009, 08:38:15 PM »

Quote from: Uranium-238 on June 26, 2009, 08:26:32 PM

No, this is just another suspension/chassis component found on the ZOK Solstices that's an upgrade for us. I believe the part you're talking about requires dropping the rear differential to install. This is not required for the sway bar.

I think that one is called Z0K rear crossmember if i'm not wrong

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #63 on:** June 26, 2009, 08:40:26 PM »

Yeah, that sounds like it.

Critterman · « **Reply #64 on:** July 20, 2009, 09:21:14 AM »

Quote from: snaponbob on June 26, 2009, 04:30:08 PM

Enough, please. Now, back to what is under the car. The sway bar installation is very straight forward. R&R is equally straight forward. I have both air in my shop and a Snap On 1/2" cordless impact, and so have actually been able to simply use a 19mm deep socket for the swat bar links and nothing else. A 15mm deep socket takes care of the brackets. If you only have hand tools then the other method (detailed above in another post) is all that's needed.

You have SnapOn tools? go figure

DRM · « **Reply #65 on:** September 18, 2009, 03:45:03 PM »

I want to Thank Tom @ CreateEngineDepot.com for getting me the Z0k Front and Rear bars along with supporting hardware.

My front bar had the old part number: 25855621
My rear bar had the new number: 25919110 (thinks that right)

I was a little concerned at first because my front bar did not have the orange tag on it. Instead it had a large tag on it with the old number.

I installed them last night with PM help from LatinVenom and lil goat the day before.

I modified my installation a little when getting the nut off the stabilizer link. I used the thinest vise grips I could find at Lowes to hold the back side of the bolt and used my rachet to remove the nut. Along with a generous spray of BLAST to loosen up the bolt.

I can tell you that I love the new feel. I will be hitting more twisties at lunch today.

Enjoy, I know I will.

Imaj · « **Reply #66 on:** October 10, 2009, 02:32:17 PM »

Would anyone have a picture of the rear sway bar where the ends connect? I am trying to figure out if the sway bar goes over or under the axel. I have the new ZOK bar ready to put in, but not sure on how to thread it into the area by the shocks. Thanks!

snaponbob · « **Reply #67 on:** October 10, 2009, 03:05:56 PM »

I believe it goes under the half shafts. Does this help?

Carbon Sky · « **Reply #68 on:** October 10, 2009, 03:39:01 PM »

I believe Imaj is asking about the sway bar, and you an indicated the toe/adjustment.

Imaj, from the picture snaponbob provided, it appears to me as though the sway bar goes under the axle. And secures to the nut area just left of the yellow shock body.

snaponbob · « **Reply #69 on:** October 10, 2009, 03:49:33 PM »

I didn't highlight the toe link, that is just how the image appeared when I copied it. If one looks just forward of the CV joint boot, the tip of the bar can be seen.

Imaj · « **Reply #70 on:** October 10, 2009, 04:08:44 PM »

Thanks Bob! That is what I needed. Many thanks to you!

Now if I can just get it to fit in there! I guess I have to take off the wheel.

kennysabarese · « **Reply #71 on:** October 10, 2009, 11:01:57 PM »

where do all these fancy diagrams come from

DRM · « **Reply #72 on:** October 11, 2009, 12:28:06 AM »

Do anyone know where the torque numbers are for the bolts...I have see it before on the forum, but can't seem to find them.

Thanks

Imaj · « **Reply #73 on:** October 11, 2009, 02:05:12 AM »

There is something I noticed today while putting on the ZOK bars that has not been mentioned...I noticed after getting the new bars in and having each end nut fastened, that there is some left to right motion. So, I was wondering...is it critical to have each bar centered (How to accomplish this I do not know.) before tightening the bushings down?

snaponbob · « **Reply #74 on:** October 11, 2009, 07:52:48 AM »

Quote from: Imaj on October 11, 2009, 02:05:12 AM

There is something I noticed today while putting on the ZOK bars that has not been mentioned...I noticed after getting the new bars in and having each end nut fastened, that there is some left to right motion. So, I was wondering...is it critical to have each bar centered (How to accomplish this I do not know.) before tightening the bushings down?

The bar should be "centered" but I do not believe it should be loose in the mounts. Can you actually grab the bar and slide it left to right? What bushings did you use?

Sway bar bracket torque is 41 ft/lbs and end link torque is 53 ft/lbs.

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Author Topic: Changing the sway bar (Read 37757 times)

lil goat

Ben L

Ben L

lil goat