Topic: Manual Transmission Drain & Fill wrench size type help?

[KWhale]

I had the car up on jack stands last weekend, and did the fluid replacement for the rear differential (RP).  When I was done I went to check the transmission drain and fill plugs, and then I remembered the tunnel brace was blocking my access.  I didn't have time to remove the brace to check the plug sizes, and then put the brace back on again.

I am going to do the fluid drain and fill at the end of the month, and I just KNOW whatever wrench fits the plugs will be weird and I won't have it.  So rather than having to interrupt the work and drive for an hour to the big city to find the tool, I thought I'd ask here in the hopes that someone knows the size or sizes (if the drain and fill are different) for the socket, allen wrench, torx, spindle rotor I will need.  I've checked the repair manuals, and while they show the locations, they don't indicate what type of tool is needed to remove them.

Also, with the Solo exhaust on the car as well, it looks pretty tight in a couple of locations to get at the bolts for the tunnel brace, but it looks like I can get them all undone, using a ratcheting closed end wrench.  Once those bolts come off and the brace is loose, it looks pretty tight to get the brace out.  Am I going to have to drop the exhaust in order to get that brace out of the way, or is there going to be enough room to get it out of the way without dropping the exhaust?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer my questions!

[DeepBlueGXP]

Randy from DDM knows, I can't remember what it is but I helped change Critterman's while I was at DDM. 

[Yamatr3]

It is 15/16ths I just checked the spare I have in my garage.

[Critterman]

You will probably have to drop the exhaust.

[KWhale]

Thanks Deep Yamatr3 and Critter!

When you say 15/16ths, are you saying it's a plain old socket???  I was expecting it to be an Alan Wrench like the rear diff was, but a 15/16ths socket is too easy!

Which of course leads into dropping the exhaust down, which I'll probably have to do now it seems....so much for being too easy!

Thanks again guys.

[Yamatr3]

Thanks Deep Yamatr3 and Critter!

When you say 15/16ths, are you saying it's a plain old socket???  I was expecting it to be an Alan Wrench like the rear diff was, but a 15/16ths socket is too easy!

Which of course leads into dropping the exhaust down, which I'll probably have to do now it seems....so much for being too easy!

Thanks again guys.

Yes, a regular wrench or socket.  I do not know how much clearance there is there as I have a trans sitting on the ground.  If you can get a socket it, then fine.  I would guess a wrench would be easier though.

[badbird]

You will have to loosen the exhaust but not drop it. I have the solo exhaust and when I put on DDM's tunnel brace, I loosened the nuts where the exhaust attaches to the cat, this gave me enough play that I could slip the stock brace out, and slip the new brace back in. Good luck!!! If you go to Joes Garage, I posted photos of this install.

Sean aka badbird

[Blue GXP]

So do you need to drop the exhaust if you can get the backbone out without doing so to change the transmission fluid?  I was able to install the backbone without messing with the exhaust.

[Deep-GXP]

It all depends I guess.  I just removed a backbone from a gxp with stock exhaust and I didnt have to drop the exhaust.  I remember when i first put it in I had to move the exhaust but now i got smart about it lol.  So yeah slipped out the backbone, and slipped in the stock..

With all the bolts out, i slid the backbone back about an inch or two (as far as it would go).  Then I tilted the backbone towards the passanger side.  Pushed the front of the backbone down, and the back of the backbone up.  The front of the backbone comes out first which will let the back slide out easier.  Wiggle it around a bit and maybe grab the exhaust and pull a little bit for that little extra room and it'll slide out.

Im sure what i just wrote is hard to understand but i tried my best. haha

[Carbon Sky]

I did mine recently.  You have to remove the front brace/cover with the venturi shaped cut out in it at a minimum.  There is no need to remove the tunnel brace (backbone).  You may be able to do it without dropping the exhaust.  However, considering all you have to do is loosen 2 bolts, I would.  It makes the job SO much easier if you drop the exhaust.  Also, because of the location of the exhaust and transmission, unless you have a pump to pump the tranny oil in, it's a pain in the ass.  I don't think I could do it with the exhaust in place.

[Blue GXP]

Maybe it may be worth the 90 to have dealer do it.  I'm switiching everything to Royal Purple.  Changed the diff fluid Sunday and it was relatively easy, kind of cramped since I didn't raise the car.

[KWhale]

Blue - I could not get the rearmost bolts undone without dropping the exhaust.  Keep in mind I have a Solo Mach exhaust on mine, which is different than the stock one.  I finally gave up, because even if I dropped the exhaust, it would be in my way while I tried to do the fluid change.  I only have Rhino ramps, not a real lift.  So I took it to the dealer (who is excellent otherwise I would not have) when I was in for some warranty work.  They did drop the exhaust to do it, and using my RP Syncromax fluid, they charged me $86 CDN.

At the end of the day, for this particular instance, it was just easier to have someone else do it.

[Blue GXP]

You've convinced me to let the dealer do it.  I'm going there today to get an alignment done anyway.  The car seems too darty when I took it out last time.

I'm putting the RP XPR 10-40 in the tranny that RP recommended.  Hopefully the dealer won't have any issues with this.  I though about the Syncromax (that's what I had put in my GTO) but it states it is for manual transmissions that require AT fluid.

[Carbon Sky]

Don't be so hesistant to do it yourself.  It really isn't all that bad.  I did this in my driveway in about 35 minutes from start to finish.  A kind of walk through if you will.

1) Raise front end, support on jackstands
2) Remove 2 bolts that hold the downpipe to the catback, lower exhaust about a foot downwards from the downpipe, and support on a jack stand.
3) Remove bolts for plate with venturi, remove plate
4) Drain/fill tranny
5) Reverse for install

I know I'm oversimplifying, but it's not much more involved then an oil change.  The only thing that really increases the time for the tranny oil change over the engine oil change are the 8-10 bolts or so that hold the plate on.  The two on the exhaust take about a minute or so.  But 8-10 bolts for the plate takes 10 or so.  That's why it's a 20-25 minute oil change and a 35 minute tranny oil change primarily.

I'm just saying, if you do oil changes, it's not much more to do a tranny oil change.  Plus then you can GUARUNTEE it was done right.  Filled right, with your fluids, torqued properly, etc.  Plus if you drive your car hard on a regular basis, it pays to be snooping around your car personally to monitor things.  It's often these instances when people find issues like scuffing brake lines, or rust, etc.

[Ben L]

Plus 1, Carbon!  Good DIY inspiring post.