Author Topic: Limp mode strikes....Problem Found-Wastegate Died (Well...maybe not...) (Read 54780 times)

Uranium-238 · « **on:** May 12, 2010, 11:49:28 AM »

Everthing seems normal his morning, started the car to go to lunch, no boost. Pulled over, checked all hoses and clamps, they all looked fine. Started everything back up, still no joy, and got a check engine light soon after. In line at autozone to get codes read now.

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 12, 2010, 12:35:07 PM »

A whole host of codes, this isn't looking good...

p2088
p2050
p0245
p0034
p0496
p0010
p0013
p0243
p0033

Any takers? I'll be getting in touch with Lyndon ASAP.

KWhale · « **Reply #2 on:** May 12, 2010, 12:48:10 PM »

p2088 - P2088 Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit Low Voltage
p2050 - Unknown
p0245 - P0245 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid Control Circuit Low Voltage
p0034 - P0034 Turbocharger Bypass Valve Solenoid Control Circuit Low Voltage
p0496 - P0496 Evaporative Emission System Flow During Non-Purge
p0010 - P0010 Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit
p0013 - P0013 Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit
p0243 - P0243 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid Control Circuit
p0033 - P0033 Turbocharger Bypass Valve Solenoid Control Circuit

Hmm, they all seem to indicate low voltage or a bad circuit. Did you happen to test your battery when you were at the AutoZone store???

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 12, 2010, 12:53:04 PM »

Nope, I was on lunch break and had already waited in line for 20 minutes, had to get back to work.

I was thinking the same thing. Funny thing is, last night my shift light was acting up. Put the key in the ignition, and all the lights lit up, like I was at high rpm. Start engine, it'd stay that way for a little bit, then do the normal car start thing.

I know it doubles as a voltage gauge, so this could be an indication of low power, or it could mean the coil it's hooked up to went nuts. This morning, everything was normal.

I do have a voltage gauge hooked up, dips just under 12V on startup. Never paid much attention to it before, so no idea what's normal...

Arabas · « **Reply #4 on:** May 12, 2010, 12:54:45 PM »

as KWhale already said, it is most likely have something to do with the battery or a bad circuit.
that's just a guess, however..

KWhale · « **Reply #5 on:** May 12, 2010, 01:12:50 PM »

On a "normal" car it would be easy to swap a battery in to see if that made a difference or not. Of course, on our cars it requires removing a fender just to experiment. I would recommend that if possible. I know in Canada I can go to Canadian Tire for example, buy a new battery, use if for a couple of days, and if that did not fix my issue, I could return the battery and maybe have to pay a 10% restocking fee (but usually not). That makes it a $10 test method although you have to do that fender thing too.

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #6 on:** May 12, 2010, 01:50:40 PM »

Moby you don't have to remove the fender to test a new battery. Use jumper cables to temporarily hook up the new battery.

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 12, 2010, 04:57:51 PM »

Lyndon seems pretty perplexed, and suggested checking all connections under the hood.

Battery test said "replace now" so that's what I'm doing. Also, the negative battery cable's clamp mechanism is broken, might be swapping that out too. Why did GM have to get all fancy with the clamp?

Mac · « **Reply #8 on:** May 12, 2010, 06:10:21 PM »

at start if the battery shows under (loading)12v its bad/low replace, just sitting there not running you should be at 12.5-12.8. I have read and myself as well have seen alot of weird things happen to these cars when a low battery is in use. My case the car alarm starting going off, this happened in the middle of the night in our locked garage, first thing i though was a break in. Grabbed the Ar and went for look. The car would not reset the alarm tried starting it seemed fine started fine. Pulled out the keys went to go back to bed the alarm goes off again. left the keys in it and the alarm would stay off. next day did a voltage test and yep under 12v at start.

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 12, 2010, 09:31:36 PM »

Installed the new goods, no joy. Took it by Joe's garage, messed around with codes and they all come back right on startup. There are some o2 senoser codes being thrown now as well.

Going to take it to the dealer tomorrow. Really bummed, racing season is finally back and my car up and dies.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #10 on:** May 12, 2010, 11:53:09 PM »

U,

Bummer! Keep with it and you will be back on course in no time. In the mean time, if you want to walk over to my house, you can borrow my bone stock (well, almost

) Solstice and run your races with that... I will split the prize money 60-40.

GJ

Divingsolo (formely Randy@DDM) · « **Reply #11 on:** May 13, 2010, 12:04:29 AM »

check ALL the fuses under the hood. this is a systemic failure of a ref voltage. I don't have my schematics right now, but it sounds like a voltage circuit that supplies voltage to those sensors/selenoids is not hot.

Divingsolo (formely Randy@DDM) · « **Reply #12 on:** May 13, 2010, 12:09:47 AM »

check fuse #41 10a

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #13 on:** May 13, 2010, 12:34:39 AM »

Quote from: Randy@DDMWorks on May 13, 2010, 12:04:29 AM

check ALL the fuses under the hood. this is a systemic failure of a ref voltage. I don't have my schematics right now, but it sounds like a voltage circuit that supplies batt voltage to those sensors/selenoids is not hot.

What are you doing up so late? Go get some sleep! You've go work to do in the morning!

GJ
PS- tell 2/16ths to check his email

GJ

Divingsolo (formely Randy@DDM) · « **Reply #14 on:** May 13, 2010, 08:24:45 AM »

GJ,

Thats about my normal bedtime...anymore than 5 hours sleep is wasting away your life...and yes I have lots of work to do this morning...just nothing fun...

But I really want to know if fuse #41 is blown??????

snaponbob · « **Reply #15 on:** May 13, 2010, 08:54:09 AM »

Nothing to add about the root cause of the glitch. However, some comments about the state of charge and condition of a battery.
1) Fully charged battery should read about 12.8 volts.
2) A battery in good condition WILL dip below 12 volts during the start cycle. This IS normal.
3) If voltage drops below 10-10.5 volts during start the battery is suspect.
4) If a carbon pile load tester is used to test a battery (more on that in a bit) 9.8-10 volts under load (50% of CCA rating) is a failed battery (assuming it was fully charged first).
5) Normal charge rate of a GM alternator is about 13.5-14.2 volts. High is bad and is generally a bad regulator, while lower may mean the rectifier is going bad.
6) Carbon pile load testers are going out of favor as they can actually damage "glass mat" batteries due to internal arcing between plates during mechanical load. Impedance testers are the preferred testers.
7) A simple DC volt meter can reveal a lot about the battery and charging system. An AC tester hooked between the battery terminals can reveal bad diodes in the alternator, and if there is more than 1.5-2 volts of AC ripple at about 2000 rpm then there may be a problem.

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 13, 2010, 09:19:33 AM »

Quote from: Randy@DDMWorks on May 13, 2010, 08:24:45 AM

GJ,

Thats about my normal bedtime...anymore than 5 hours sleep is wasting away your life...and yes I have lots of work to do this morning...just nothing fun...

But I really want to know if fuse #41 is blown??????

I'm at work now, and won't get off till 4, or maybe later. I'll swap #41 with a known good fuse before I leave. All fuses were checked last night for obvious signs of having blown, but this time I'll swap it with a spare.

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 13, 2010, 01:00:09 PM »

Randy, you da man. Fuse #41 was blown. Replaced fuse, disconnected the battery for about half an hour to clear all codes, and everything is back to normal.

For now anyway...now we have to answer the question "Why did the fuse blow?"

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #18 on:** May 13, 2010, 01:05:20 PM »

Quote from: Uranium-238 on May 13, 2010, 01:00:09 PM

Randy, you da man. Fuse #41 was blown. Replaced fuse, disconnected the battery for about half an hour to clear all codes, and everything is back to normal.

For now anyway...now we have to answer the question "Why did the fuse blow?"

So you won't be needing my car this weekend then?

GJ

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 13, 2010, 01:20:55 PM »

I'm still hedging my bets...somethingade that fuse blow, question is what? Anyone know what all is connected to that circuit?

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #20 on:** May 13, 2010, 01:26:06 PM »

What did the map on the bottom of the cover say it belonged to?

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 13, 2010, 01:28:12 PM »

I think #41 is marked turbo...

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #22 on:** May 13, 2010, 01:40:04 PM »

U-238 - correct.

I just checked the Glove box owners manual thread.

#41 is Turbo, Cam Phaser (LNF)

Do you want to come back over and reload the tune?

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 13, 2010, 01:58:47 PM »

No, not till all this is sorted out. Just drove It again, only boosts to 10 psi, so something is still up.

Divingsolo (formely Randy@DDM) · « **Reply #24 on:** May 13, 2010, 02:03:42 PM »

you possibly have a bad Wastegate selenoid..if it can't cycle correctly..it may pull too much amps and blow the fuse

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Author Topic: Limp mode strikes....*Problem Found-Wastegate Died* (Well...maybe not...) (Read 54780 times)

Author Topic: Limp mode strikes....Problem Found-Wastegate Died (Well...maybe not...) (Read 54780 times)