Topic: Polished my valve cover and heat shield

[Hal 9000]

I removed, polished and reinstalled my valve cover and heat shield.



Yes, I know....  I have no life.

[Kelu]

Hal, that looks awesome!!! I wish I would be able to do that too. I suppose you didn't documented the process with some extra pictures

[Hal 9000]

Thanks Kelu.

All I have is a 'before' picture of the valve cover,


And a shot of the engine with the valve cover off.


As far as removing the valve cover, you just take off the spark plug coils, remove the connectors from the cam position sensors, undo the oil vapor line, then loosen the 11 bolts holding it on (they self-retain after loosening all the way).  It may be a little sticky, and the o-ring might stay with the engine, (see the one around the spark plugs in the photo), but it isn't too hard to do. Just clean and put the o-rings back on the valve cover before re-installing.

As for the polishing,  I bought this polisher, http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365150_200365150

This polisher stand, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922025000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

Some extra buffing wheels, and this kit to use with a drill to reach the nooks and crannies, http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-aluminum-polishing-kit-98707.html

Then just read up on aluminum polishing on the internet and get ready to spend hours doing it. It isn't a fast process.

The valve cover didn't come out real great because the aluminum alloy used is extremely hard, and is roughly cast, with lots of surface cracks and rough texture.  To do it right, I should have sanded it down first, but I didn't have the proper tools for that so I got lazy.

I'm thinking about powdercoating it now with a clear candy green like this. http://www.powderbuythepound.com/GREEN_TRANSPARENT_CANDY.html

[JimVonBaden]

As for the polishing,  I bought this polisher, http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365150_200365150

This polisher stand, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922025000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

Some extra buffing wheels, and this kit to use with a drill to reach the nooks and crannies, http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-aluminum-polishing-kit-98707.html

Then just read up on aluminum polishing on the internet and get ready to spend hours doing it. It isn't a fast process.

The valve cover didn't come out real great because the aluminum alloy used is extremely hard, and is roughly cast, with lots of surface cracks and rough texture.  To do it right, I should have sanded it down first, but I didn't have the proper tools for that so I got lazy.

I'm thinking about powdercoating it now with a clear candy green like this. http://www.powderbuythepound.com/GREEN_TRANSPARENT_CANDY.html

I did a similar thing on my Opel GT (old style).

The aluminum looks OK raw, but is hard to polish. Instead I cleaned it really well and painted it with Rustoleum from a can with rolers and brushes.

It came out looking like this:



I also rebuilt my steering rack and it looks like this:



For those of you iffy on roll paint, check out the door I did:



I am not advocating it for a show car paint job, but it is great for smaller parts and daily drivers.


Jim

[Arabas]

i envy you for the vintage Opel GT Jim...

[Yogi]

Hey, Hal!  Nice work on the VC!   
That shot of the head with the VC off looks really clean!  How many miles do you have and how often do you change your oil?
TIA!   

[JimVonBaden]

i envy you for the vintage Opel GT Jim...

Thanks. It has been a lot of work, but fun and different too.



It is my tenth.

Sorry for the hijack.

Jim

[G8TR]

Nice looking car Jim.

[Hal 9000]

Whoa!!

How did I get my own thread?  I guess an admin moved me out of wdydtykt.   

Yogi, I have 67000 miles and almost 5 years on the car.

I use mobil 1 and change it when I get to 20 percent oil life remaining on the computer, or sometimes sooner, usually around 7000 miles.

I had a beer with the GM engineer at the Kansas City nationals, and he convinced me to just trust the computer.  He said they put a ton of testing and thought into the oil life algorithm, and he believes in it.

[Hal 9000]

Hey Jim, back in the 80's I had a co-worker who restored a GT.  He let me drive it a couple of times and the thing I still remember is the wiper switch on the floorboard by the clutch pedal.  When you wanted a quick wipe, you just hit it with your foot.

Same as older cars with a dimmer switch, only it was a single wipe switch.

I always thought that was cool.

[JimVonBaden]

Hey Jim, back in the 80's I had a co-worker who restored a GT.  He let me drive it a couple of times and the thing I still remember is the wiper switch on the floorboard by the clutch pedal.  When you wanted a quick wipe, you just hit it with your foot.

Same as older cars with a dimmer switch, only it was a single wipe switch.

I always thought that was cool.

I still love to mess with people with it. I hit the wiper every time I make a right turn then tell them there is a problem with it.

Anyhow, the other cool thing with it is the washer pump is manual. Pump the switch a few times and a bellows under the switch pumps fluid to the squirter and activates the windshield wipers.

Jim

[Yogi]

Whoa!!

How did I get my own thread?  I guess an admin moved me out of wdydtykt.   

Yogi, I have 67000 miles and almost 5 years on the car.

I use mobil 1 and change it when I get to 20 percent oil life remaining on the computer, or sometimes sooner, usually around 7000 miles.

I had a beer with the GM engineer at the Kansas City nationals, and he convinced me to just trust the computer.  He said they put a ton of testing and thought into the oil life algorithm, and he believes in it.

Looks like the M1 is doing a great job!
Thanks for the feedback!