Author Topic: Need some guidance from the experts - white smoke from exhaust (Read 35475 times)

Critterman · « **Reply #75 on:** February 25, 2011, 08:08:37 PM »

Go for it

spider · « **Reply #76 on:** February 25, 2011, 11:47:42 PM »

Quote from: spider on January 29, 2011, 09:58:15 PM

Thats their method of cleaning the combustion chamber & valves & mostly covering their ass if it was valve-train related & the turbo incident was their misdiagnosis & subsequent failed repair. After its all supposedly over & done you/they may still find its a piston ring failure.

Classic!>>>> bad turbo, NOT! Umm, failed rings again! Bingo. Glad to hear you are finally on the road to recovery. After driving all those tard-buckets it will be a major delight to drive yours again. Cherish the moment!!

Arabas · « **Reply #77 on:** February 26, 2011, 07:17:52 AM »

jws0318 while you are there, why don't you upgrade internals and pay for the difference of the cost of the materials.
sorry for what happened, but it could be a chance to make your engine stronger

spider · « **Reply #78 on:** February 26, 2011, 10:09:03 AM »

Since they are rebuilding it rather than replacing it, this is a great opportunity! A set of Wisecos at least. Between that & replacing the clutch, I'd go with the pistons. They have to remove them with the rods to replace the rings anyway. The only added work is pressing the wrist pin out that holds the piston on the rod.

jws0318 · « **Reply #79 on:** February 28, 2011, 03:56:40 PM »

I will ask them about upgrading the internals - if they agree to do it, will i be forfeiting the remaining drivetrain warranty since they are not "GM" parts?

Along those same lines, is there a upgraded clutch option that is offered by GM Performance parts?

After the last 6 weeks, I'm a little nervous to have them install "non-GM approved" parts. I have this nightmare of them installing them, the car is still not right, and then they blame the parts and void my warranty. To be completely honest, if they just get me back to stock (plus the GMPP reflash), I'm going to leave it all alone for a good while, but if I can beef it up and still have the remaining warranty, I'm cool with that.

Critterman · « **Reply #80 on:** February 28, 2011, 03:59:15 PM »

while it would be a great time to install stronger parts, I would not ask the dealer to do so for the reasons you stated.

Helios · « **Reply #81 on:** February 28, 2011, 05:28:28 PM »

Quote from: Critterman on February 28, 2011, 03:59:15 PM

while it would be a great time to install stronger parts, I would not ask the dealer to do so for the reasons you stated.

jws0318 · « **Reply #82 on:** March 11, 2011, 09:59:51 AM »

Latest update - I finally got the car back yesterday. According to the receipt, the #1 and #2 pistons were cracked. The tech said the rings were trashed on both of them.

Everything seems to be good now. It is running well so far. I lost the temp display on the DIC - I just have three dashes where it should display. I'm assuming they just didn't plug something in when they put it all together - any ideas where I could check? Other than that, I believe this saga is over for now.

Once again, thanks to everyone here for your suggestions and support throughout...this forum IS the best!

Critterman · « **Reply #83 on:** March 11, 2011, 10:01:39 AM »

Air in the coolant causes that display. There are several ways to get the air out, do a search. I would get this done immediately.

jws0318 · « **Reply #84 on:** March 11, 2011, 10:07:32 AM »

sorry - I should have been more accurate - the temp display I am speaking of is the outside ambient temp, not the motor temp. The outside temp is normally displayed next to the odometer like this: "85._____60115", but mine is showing "---_____60115".

Critterman · « **Reply #85 on:** March 11, 2011, 10:19:09 AM »

Sorry, jumped to the gun.

jws0318 · « **Reply #86 on:** March 11, 2011, 11:37:46 AM »

no problem - my fault. If my outside temp display is the only issue i still have, I can deal with that.

Critterman · « **Reply #87 on:** March 11, 2011, 01:33:51 PM »

Not sure where it is located to even see if it is plugged in. On the NA it is on the radiator shrowd.

Graywolf · « **Reply #88 on:** March 12, 2011, 01:06:50 PM »

Make sure they check the engine cylinder sleeve for damage. Most often they are damaged when piston rings go bad otherwise the same problem will reappear.

jws0318 · « **Reply #89 on:** March 23, 2011, 02:11:57 PM »

I've driven the car 500+ miles since I got it back, and it seems to be running well. The DIC outside temp display was a simple fix - apparently it plugs in somewhere under the turbo - they inadvertantly forgot to plug it in when they put the motor back in the car.

It seems that since I got the car back, the steering feels "heavier" than it was. It takes more effort, especially noticable at low speed, to turn the wheel. At first, i thought it was me, having driven rental cars for 2 months and not remembering how the Sky felt pre-repair, but i am convinced it is tighter now than it was previously.

I mentioned it to the dealer, and they gave me the "it's supposed to be tight, it's a performance car" line, but i'm not sure I'm buying it. The fluid level is correct - any other ideas? power steering pump going bad? U-joint? Any other ideas?

Thanks...I'm almost back to 100%!!!!

Critterman · « **Reply #90 on:** March 23, 2011, 03:20:34 PM »

Is it whinning in the morning when cold?

jws0318 · « **Reply #91 on:** March 23, 2011, 03:23:27 PM »

Its no longer a daily driver, so I can't answer that. It does not make any unusual noises that I have noticed. I am in Phoenix and it hasn't been started or driven in temps under 50 since I had it back.

Arabas · « **Reply #92 on:** March 23, 2011, 03:36:57 PM »

simplest to check: tire pressure?
check if the electric power of the steering wheel is OK
also check IF there is something stands in the way of the ....how is it called in English... steering axle???

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #93 on:** March 23, 2011, 03:40:08 PM »

Pull fuses 42/43 under the hood for about 30 seconds. That will get rid of the fuel trim memory and it will respond like when it was new.

jws0318 · « **Reply #94 on:** March 23, 2011, 04:19:44 PM »

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on March 23, 2011, 03:40:08 PM

Pull fuses 42/43 under the hood for about 30 seconds. That will get rid of the fuel trim memory and it will respond like when it was new.

I'm confused. Is this to check and see if it goes back to the way it was, or is there some coorelation between fuel trim and steering? I had the GMPP Stage tune added while the motor was being rebuilt - that doesn't change the steering dynamics, does it?

1LILNDN · « **Reply #95 on:** March 23, 2011, 04:30:53 PM »

jws0318 ; Your not alone . They have replaced injectors, pistons,rings,seals,turbo ,ecm,plugs. now they still have it and Keeps throwing codes Misfire2,3,4 then 1,2,3,4 Now they called in an engineneer today.They don't know whats wrong with it. Told me they hope to have an Answer soon.

jws0318 · « **Reply #96 on:** March 23, 2011, 04:36:42 PM »

Quote from: 1 LIL NDN on March 23, 2011, 04:30:53 PM

jws0318 ; Your not alone . They have replaced injectors, pistons,rings,seals,turbo ,ecm,plugs. now they still have it and Keeps throwing codes Misfire2,3,4 then 1,2,3,4 Now they called in an engineneer today.They don't know whats wrong with it. Told me they hope to have an Answer soon.

Throughout the entire ordeal, I never threw a single code. The one thing that stumped them for a while after they put it back together was that Top Dead Center was mismarked on the flywheel cover. After a call to Detroit, they found a TSB that said TDC was actually 1 notch to the right of the indicated TDC - once they fixed that, it ran fine, but it was rough prior to that.

Good luck with your repairs - It's making me nervous that as these cars get some miles on them, these major issues are now surfacing.

Critterman · « **Reply #97 on:** March 23, 2011, 06:34:15 PM »

jws tire pressure is good to ckeck, then start the car, stand outside with the hood up, have someone turn the wheel lock to lock several times. Shut everything off and check the levels again.

you are looking for air bubbles and sounds that you don't think should be there when it is being moved side to side.

tazz · « **Reply #98 on:** March 23, 2011, 07:48:53 PM »

Quote from: jws0318 on March 23, 2011, 04:36:42 PM

Throughout the entire ordeal, I never threw a single code. The one thing that stumped them for a while after they put it back together was that Top Dead Center was mismarked on the flywheel cover. After a call to Detroit, they found a TSB that said TDC was actually 1 notch to the right of the indicated TDC - once they fixed that, it ran fine, but it was rough prior to that.

Good luck with your repairs - It's making me nervous that as these cars get some miles on them, these major issues are now surfacing.

Hence why I purchased an extended warranty which has already paid for itself in about 6 mos.

NavyKnight · « **Reply #99 on:** March 24, 2011, 11:19:58 AM »

Quote from: spider on February 26, 2011, 10:09:03 AM

Since they are rebuilding it rather than replacing it, this is a great opportunity! A set of Wisecos at least. Between that & replacing the clutch, I'd go with the pistons. They have to remove them with the rods to replace the rings anyway. The only added work is pressing the wrist pin out that holds the piston on the rod.

Hi Spider,

When replacing pistons, doesn't the engine cylinder have to get bored and honed? Especially when getting Wiseco, is it possible to just do a piston swap without having to let a machine shop work on the engine block? I need to know this as I am going to have to go through this next month as my piston crown #1 was chipped.

Thanks for everyone's input, we are all learning!

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Author Topic: Need some guidance from the experts - white smoke from exhaust (Read 35475 times)