Author Topic: Spring Swap "How To" (Read 45752 times)

Sly Bob · « **Reply #25 on:** June 13, 2011, 05:27:55 AM »

Nice work Steve! I don't know that I would have attempted it without spring compressors but I admire you for doing it the way you did.

Great write up.

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #26 on:** June 13, 2011, 05:36:37 AM »

I mentioned to CT that I thought the GXP already had the springs and that the GXP springs were considered ZOK for the NA. You can always chock it up to good training

kennysabarese · « **Reply #27 on:** June 13, 2011, 09:43:43 AM »

Nice work, your car is so clean under there, I hate east coast rain/salt/rust...

Is the reason for the spring compressor only for safety? I thought it was also to protect the shock threads and to be able to torque the top nut without the spring's force against it.

elff · « **Reply #28 on:** June 13, 2011, 09:51:52 AM »

Kenny
If you wash your car at least once a year, it won't look so bad.

Good Point from Marvic, When are you getting the alignment?
I'm good on the install. I just hate doing Springs!!

Did it settle after you drove it.

Did you enjoy my Man Thong? I wore it backwards in that picture she sent you.

dengel · « **Reply #29 on:** June 13, 2011, 09:53:38 AM »

S

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on June 13, 2011, 05:36:37 AM

I mentioned to CT that I thought the GXP already had the springs and that the GXP springs were considered ZOK for the NA. You can always chock it up to good training

Did a little research into shocks and springs just lately (thanks DBG on the heads up on my leaking shock!). From what I found in a previous post by GM engineer Steve Padilla (Flash's Owner on the forums?) is that the GXP, N/A-Z0K and GXP-Z0K all have the same shocks but 3 different sets of springs.

MY DILEMA - If I decide to upgrade to the Koni adjustable shocks, should I stick with the stock GXP springs or upgrade to the GXP-Z0K springs? I don't really want to lower the car too much, as it already scrapes the air scoop under the car when I pull into and out of my garage. Opinions???? Any other data on how much the Z0K springs lower a GXP?

kennysabarese · « **Reply #30 on:** June 13, 2011, 10:05:47 AM »

Quote from: dengel on June 13, 2011, 09:53:38 AM

S
Did a little research into shocks and springs just lately (thanks DBG on the heads up on my leaking shock!). From what I found in a previous post by GM engineer Steve Padilla (Flash's Owner on the forums?) is that the GXP, N/A-Z0K and GXP-Z0K all have the same shocks but 3 different sets of springs.

MY DILEMA - If I decide to upgrade to the Koni adjustable shocks, should I stick with the stock GXP springs or upgrade to the GXP-Z0K springs? I don't really want to lower the car too much, as it already scrapes the air scoop under the car when I pull into and out of my garage. Opinions???? Any other data on how much the Z0K springs lower a GXP?

I think you should go with the BC's, they are only a little more than the Konis and let you dial in whatever ride height you want.

Brad Kenny · « **Reply #31 on:** June 13, 2011, 10:43:12 AM »

GJ,

Glad to hear you installed the springs. Looking forward to the review of the stiffer ride (or not) and whether it was a good choice for you (not too low). Hope you enjoy them in good health and ENJOY!!!

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #32 on:** June 14, 2011, 01:48:36 AM »

Ok, to answer some of the questions..

DBG-
The springs are definitely different. You can see in the side by side pics they are at least 1.5" shorter. How much they effect the car, I have no idea yet.

Marvic,
I am waiting for the full settling before going for an alignment.

Elff,
So far it's half an inch. Should settle another half or so, I will update after about 500 miles. I'm ok with the .5 drop actiually. I did it as much for the visual as for the change in feel. I never liked the 4X4 sized gap in the wheel wells. At this point, the front is perfect for me. The back I'd be ok coming down another 1 - 1.5" just to level the car out. I will explore options in due time when the springs settle and "other" options have been considered.

SlyBob,
You shouldn't admire stupidity. In was dumb to do this swap without a spring compressor.

. Also, use a bigger blanket....

Kenny,
Thank you. I try to keep the car clean. Of course, 355 days of sunshine doesn't hurt. I am also almost as anal as Go-N Def, and climb under the car to wipe the frame and underbelly clean a few times a year. That and I only drive it once a week or so.

IBDrinken,
Seriously? Please read more thoroughly next time... I set that up for an easy epic fail and you took the bait.

SA,
Flock you.

Dengel,
I will PM you with more info.

Arabas,
It's easy. Just take your time. This took me over a day, with the pictures, notes, a graduation party, and other distractions. No need to rush through.

CT,
None of this would have happened with out you. Muchas Gracias! Hopefully this "how to and how NOT to" tutorial will help someone else down the road.

GJ
Master tech in the eyes of Arabas....

cbr6 · « **Reply #33 on:** June 19, 2011, 10:36:44 PM »

I'm guessing the part in the rear that wasn't named was " track rod/ toe link/ track link" we call it a track rod on the ariel atom

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #34 on:** June 19, 2011, 10:54:09 PM »

It's GJ, just make something up he will never know.

elff · « **Reply #35 on:** June 26, 2011, 08:49:30 PM »

So I installed my new shocks and springs.
On top of GJ's awesome writup, here are my quick thoughts.

The rears are way easier to do than the fronts. The fronts you need to disconnect one of the ball joints and the sway bar.
On the rear, I only disconnect the Tie Rod and I can slide out the old and slide in the new. I did not need to disconnect the swaybar or a ball joint. Also, the passenger front requires that you move the Power steering assembly to get at the one 15mm bolt. [Unless you have it relocated]

That is all.

Sly Bob · « **Reply #36 on:** June 27, 2011, 01:36:42 PM »

Quote from: Gentleman Jack on June 14, 2011, 01:48:36 AM

Also, use a bigger blanket....

As I'm in Canada GJ big blankets aren't a problem as we have lot's of them around. The igloo is way too cold otherwise.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #37 on:** June 27, 2011, 02:51:53 PM »

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on June 13, 2011, 05:36:37 AM

I mentioned to CT that I thought the GXP already had the springs and that the GXP springs were considered ZOK for the NA. You can always chock it up to good training

DBG,
Some clarification here: the GXP and the GXP-Z0K shocks are the same. The springs are different. Different length and different spring rates. Additionally, there were GM SPO performance parts that had both different springs (higher spring rates) and different shocks (different valve rates).

Hope that helps future swappers.

GJ

elff · « **Reply #38 on:** June 27, 2011, 05:26:31 PM »

Attached is a comparison of every shock and spring option there is for the Solstice and sky

kennysabarese · « **Reply #39 on:** June 30, 2011, 12:48:58 PM »

Quote from: elff on June 27, 2011, 05:26:31 PM

Attached is a comparison of every shock and spring option there is for the Solstice and sky

that GM makes.

elff · « **Reply #40 on:** June 30, 2011, 01:12:27 PM »

Very Good Point

Do you happen to have the Specs on the Koni SA's?

kennysabarese · « **Reply #41 on:** June 30, 2011, 01:18:21 PM »

What kind of specs are you referring to? The txt file has no info about the shocks, just the part numbers.

elff · « **Reply #42 on:** June 30, 2011, 01:29:18 PM »

yea, I just noticed that. I was curious about the shock comparisons as well
I had the GM SPO Perf Parts shocks and springs which are rated stiffer than the ZOK's Height was taller though
Here is the comparison of old to new in my Sky
GM SPO Perf Parts are 197 lbs/inch front and 191 lbs/inch back
The Eibach Sportlines are 211 lbs/inch front 191 lbs/inch back

So not a huge difference in spring rate, but they are much shorter, so not as much travel which I do feel.
I'm going to play with the Koni's this weekend.

Is it possible to get to the tops of the rears from inside the trunk, IE, can you drill without damaging anything?

Or is it Jack up the back until the suspension sags enough that you can go in from the wheel well?
Fronts are obviously a non issue.

Critterman · « **Reply #43 on:** June 30, 2011, 02:00:03 PM »

Elff. The sol has cuts in the carpet almost where you need to cut to get to the top of the shock. I have had holes in my trunk for going on two years, with the holes open and no issues. SA an GJ found some gravel but I believe it was on the mount not in the trunk.

elff · « **Reply #44 on:** June 30, 2011, 02:04:55 PM »

Cool
I'll have to look into that.
All I need is enough space to get a small socket or even needle nose pliers to the adjuster.
with how low the kappa is now, There is no room between the fender and wheel well for me to get even my small hands into it.

kennysabarese · « **Reply #45 on:** June 30, 2011, 02:31:27 PM »

You have to drill.

You can use a 5/8th socket to adjust instead of the Koni tool. Then the hole doesn't need to be so large.

kennysabarese · « **Reply #46 on:** June 30, 2011, 02:41:31 PM »

Quote from: elff on June 30, 2011, 01:29:18 PM

yea, I just noticed that. I was curious about the shock comparisons as well

The only way to compare shocks is to dyno them, and I'm pretty sure GM doesn't have that information available publicly.

I dyno'd my Konis and you can see the results here:

http://www.kappaperformance.com/forum/index.php/topic,4171.msg52963.html#msg52963

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #47 on:** June 30, 2011, 09:58:51 PM »

Quote from: Critterman on June 30, 2011, 02:00:03 PM

Elff. The sol has cuts in the carpet almost where you need to cut to get to the top of the shock. I have had holes in my trunk for going on two years, with the holes open and no issues. SA an GJ found some gravel but I believe it was on the mount not in the trunk.

This is true but you did also have those special JPM leather covers in there if I remember correctly.

Elff they make these plastic snap in hole plugs that might work well for what you need, I think you can get them at like Lowes or Home Depot. Here are some from McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-in-plugs/=cza4ya

GeeTeeOh! · « **Reply #48 on:** July 01, 2011, 07:32:29 AM »

Thank you for the write up. I did mine one morning before going to the office. I disconnected the lower ball-joint instead. I also used an electric impact wrench on the strut nut to remove the spring. I aimed the strut at an empty box. It only goes 2 or 3 feet.

I used KappaSprings and they lowered the car quite a lot - more than advertised.

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Author Topic: Spring Swap "How To" (Read 45752 times)