Author Topic: Replaced wp, now the temp hits 232 (Read 12510 times)

pew · « **on:** November 18, 2012, 02:36:35 PM »

I just finished replacing the water pump on my 07' na a few days ago.. I let it sit with the system empty for a couple days to let the very little rtv that I used dry.. Filled it up yesterday and fired it up. No leaks but the temp climbs slowly right up to 230+. I kill it when it gets to that temp but I'm not sure what is going on. Is it normal to hit these temps the first time you start the car following completely emptying the cooling system?

The fan kicks on and as it climbs into the 220 range it speeds up significantly, but the temp never drops.

Any ideas?

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Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #1 on:** November 18, 2012, 02:54:02 PM »

Air bubbles?

pew · « **Reply #2 on:** November 18, 2012, 02:56:25 PM »

Quote from: Gentleman Jack on November 18, 2012, 02:54:02 PM

Air bubbles?

That's what I think is happening.. An air lock somewhere. It burped quite a bit while I was filling it and the level didn't change at all while it was running though.

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S.P. · « **Reply #3 on:** November 18, 2012, 03:02:53 PM »

I second what GJ said. I've flushed my coolant before and the temps never reached 230. You should try purging the air from the system (if you haven't already done so).

pew · « **Reply #4 on:** November 18, 2012, 03:04:06 PM »

I haven't. Is there a specific procedure that you follow to do so?

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S.P. · « **Reply #5 on:** November 18, 2012, 04:19:39 PM »

Here's a link that will help you out with purging the air: http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f5/my-diy-fix-no-heat-overheating-engine-33692/

Just as an FYI, this link shows how to refill the system while avoiding getting air trapped in the system: http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f55/coolant-bleed-procedure-38876/

pew · « **Reply #6 on:** November 18, 2012, 04:23:23 PM »

Quote from: S.P. on November 18, 2012, 04:19:39 PM

Here's a link that will help you out with purging the air: http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f5/my-diy-fix-no-heat-overheating-engine-33692/

Thank you, I'll try this tonight and post my results.

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Brazen17 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 18, 2012, 06:09:49 PM »

Do the na's have the same air bubble issues as the turbo's?

DaveOC · « **Reply #8 on:** November 18, 2012, 08:50:18 PM »

Quote from: Brazen17 on November 18, 2012, 06:09:49 PM

Do the na's have the same air bubble issues as the turbo's?

My take is that the NAs will have the same issues if they develop the air bubbles, whether by leaks or otherwise. The NA's are not as likely to develop the air bubble issues simply by opening the overflow tank when warm, as happens to the turbo engines.

Sly Bob · « **Reply #9 on:** November 18, 2012, 09:59:22 PM »

Maybe a call to DDM if that doesn't work to get their thoughts. Air bubbles would be my first thought though.

1LILNDN · « **Reply #10 on:** November 19, 2012, 12:28:10 AM »

Thats my thought to. Others have had the same Issues in the Past ... I have to check the Anti freeze in mine and wondering if I should let the dealer deal with it ?

pew · « **Reply #11 on:** November 19, 2012, 09:33:55 AM »

I'm not that concerned. Finding the will power to work on the water pump was much harder than actually doing it, so figuring this out shouldn't be too bad...

It's tempting to procrastinate when you have another car and this one is just going to be parked for 4 months anyway.

I didn't get time under the hood last night, but I'll get under there tonight.

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Critterman · « **Reply #12 on:** November 19, 2012, 10:13:55 AM »

Did you replace the thermostat as well? Have you checked it?

pew · « **Reply #13 on:** November 19, 2012, 10:45:39 AM »

Quote from: Critterman on November 19, 2012, 10:13:55 AM

Did you replace the thermostat as well? Have you checked it?

I didn't, and instantly regretted it. I might pick one up to install over the winter. Unless I damaged it when I unbolted it, it would be a pretty big coincidence.

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Critterman · « **Reply #14 on:** November 19, 2012, 10:56:40 AM »

I think I would start there, you can pull it and put it in a pot of water on the stove and see if it opens. DDM has a how to post that makes it as simple as it can be to do it.

Sly Bob · « **Reply #15 on:** November 19, 2012, 01:05:50 PM »

This video?

DDMWorks - LNF Coolant Refill on Ecotec Engines

pew · « **Reply #16 on:** November 19, 2012, 01:47:41 PM »

Quote from: Sly Bob on November 19, 2012, 01:05:50 PM

This video?

DDMWorks - LNF Coolant Refill on Ecotec Engines

I just watched that video last night as well.. I know I'll have time tonight so I'll let everyone know how it goes.

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pew · « **Reply #17 on:** November 20, 2012, 10:06:48 PM »

So on Sunday when I was done screwing around I parked the car next to my driveway, which is slightly downhill. The coolant tank was full. Today I started it and the low coolant light was on.. Filled it up, checked for leaks, and went for a 15 mile spin. Max temp 204, usually around 198.

No leaks, high temps, whine or weird smells. I think the air (and a lot of it) found its way out while sitting..

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werks · « **Reply #18 on:** November 20, 2012, 11:47:06 PM »

Sounds about right I have had several kappas fix themselves this same way overnight too!

catandsplat · « **Reply #19 on:** November 21, 2012, 10:45:02 AM »

I've just had this issue as well. Temp hit 255 when returning from trip out. Fine going, lucky it was only 10 mins away. Mine was because I put the heater on, a well known spot for air bubbles to collect. I just angled the purge tank up and squeezed the pipes, topped up and now it hits 201ish

Sbutcher2 · « **Reply #20 on:** December 07, 2012, 01:37:56 PM »

The cooling system was problematic after a flush and refill. The temps would climb, temp light would come on and then it would drop temp. When the heater was turned on to dissipate the heat it would blow cold air. Since air was in the system I let it cool down, did the upper rad hose squeeze routine and removed the upper rad hose to add fluid in stead of using the reservior tank. Others have had sucess with changing the elevation of the car by jacking the drivers side or using a hill to help the air escape or combining various techniques to get the air out like the one DDM recommends.

Each time I used the upper hose to refill the system the temps would not climb as high, they settled down sooner and it finally stopped reaching the overheating stage after the second refill.

When cool the upper hose finally has a feel of fluid in the line and temps are stable.

There is a technical bulletin for air in the cooling system. It has an installation of 2 check valve to control air. The parts are less than $20.00 and I ordered since it is a good investment to control this issue.

Carbon Sky · « **Reply #21 on:** December 07, 2012, 01:47:16 PM »

Just before 4 years of ownership of my 08 Sky RL, I started getting intermittently higher than normal coolant temps. Mine used to be around 96-98*C "normal" and started hitting 106*. I was going to swap out my Dexcool anyways and install the check valves, so I decided just to be safe I'd throw in a fresh t-stat as well.

When doing this job, to get the air bubbles out (after installing the valves, and filling with Dexcool), I raised the expansion tank. I basically removed the 2 bolts, and then raised it by putting a roll or shop towels under the tank. This now held the tank higher than anything else in the coolant system. I revved the engine a few times to build up the waterpump rpms, and when I did, a LOT of air and bubbles came out, and the coolant level would lower. I did this until I saw no more bubbles/air coming out back into the expansion tank.

After swapping out the Dexcool, my can now runs consistently between 85-88*, and I don't get any unusual temp spikes anymore.

Sbutcher2 · « **Reply #22 on:** December 13, 2012, 06:14:21 PM »

The water temp still seemed to move around alot, atleast it never went above 210F. Every day for several days while waiting for the check valve I squezed the upper hose and continued to get the air out of the system.

Installed one valve of the 2 check valves recommended in the TB. Where the turbo hose and the reservior return got install first. Temps stayed solid, around 200F. and the heater is working great. Especially important now in the NorthEast.

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #23 on:** December 14, 2012, 07:44:33 AM »

This is the valve part number
20876185
Check Valve

ChopTop · « **Reply #24 on:** December 14, 2012, 08:39:57 AM »

Question; Is there recommended timeframe that coolant be flushed/refilled regardless of temps or mileage?

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Author Topic: Replaced wp, now the temp hits 232 (Read 12510 times)