Author Topic: How to change the thermostat LNF or LE5 (Read 32202 times)

DeepBlueGXP · « **on:** February 24, 2013, 08:49:59 PM »

Rule #1, you must use GM (AC Delco thermostat) unless you don't mind doing this install twice in the same week.

Remove the wipers: pull off the plastic cap covering the nut, use a 15mm to remove the nut. I used the panel removal fork tool and placed it under the wiper and a plastic or rubber mallot to hit the top of the bolt force the wiper off. Do this to both wipers. Leave them in place.

Remove the surround by removing the 7mm bolts and 6 panel plugs, lift off and place on windshield. See 1st pic.

The clamp on the main water hose on the top thermostat is likely positioned over top of the #10 mm bolt on the rear side. I used a tool to reach around the lower tab to pull the clamp up out of the way so a socket can be placed on it. See pics 02-04.

Remove the bolt on the forward side of the thermostat housing and place aside.

Place pan underneath exhaust to catch radiator fluid

Loosen the rear bolt but do not remove, leave in the housing with socket attached. This will prevent headaches later. See pics 05-06.

Lift housing move the left of the engine so you can remove and install new thermostat

Rule #2 1/2 of fluid always misses the pan (happened on both installs) Make sure you have more.

Reverse the install procedure and use DDM's burp procedure.

There is not a paper gasket on the mating surface. Just the rubber seal around the thermostat so make sure when you are positioning it, the seal doesn't come off.

See remaining pics for comparison of OEM (right side) and new AC Delco (left side)

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2013, 09:13:10 PM »

I had performed the burp procedure several times before resorting to changing the thermostat and I had the check valves installed.

Temps were running near 220 most of the time. After install, temps run at 199 and then drop to 189.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2013, 09:20:38 PM »

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on February 24, 2013, 08:49:59 PM

Rule #1, you must use GM (AC Delco thermostat) unless you don't mind doing this install twice in the same week.

Thanks for the How-to! But why do you have to use the AC Delco (what else did you use and why did you have to redo it)?

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2013, 09:24:37 PM »

I used an aftermarket one from ebay and the damn thing never opened to allow fluid to flow. Temp went up to 244. I called Dave @ DDM to tell him my issue and the first thing he asked was what was the replacement thermostat. He said I have to use the GM version as he had no luck with any thermostats other that one. He had tried all different ones at Advanced Auto Parts.

Sly Bob · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2013, 09:38:48 PM »

Looks pretty easy to do Joe. I might consider changing mine when I change the coolant this year.it's been 5 years since I brought her home so it's time for a fluid change.

There's a plug to take out at the water pump when you change the antifreeze?

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2013, 10:25:55 PM »

That one isn't as easy to get to as the small valve on the lower right corner of the radiator

Sly Bob · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2013, 10:33:09 PM »

I'll have to go looking for the plug when the time comes.

elff · « **Reply #7 on:** February 24, 2013, 11:54:57 PM »

That looks to be a bit of a pita.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2013, 12:10:27 AM »

Quote from: elff on February 24, 2013, 11:54:57 PM

That looks to be a bit of a pita.

Yeah, you should just sell your sky next week.

elff · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2013, 12:34:30 AM »

I already have a buyer
Its my second personality so the title transfer will be super easy

Dave@DDMworks · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2013, 09:30:50 AM »

Joe - Glad switching to the GM one took care of your problem. I have no idea why the aftermarket ones have such an issue, but after having to replace a couple with the GM ones, we just always put the GM ones in now.

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2013, 12:53:54 PM »

Thanks for taking my calls

Sly Bob · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2013, 01:26:28 PM »

Quote from: DeepBlueGXP on February 25, 2013, 12:53:54 PM

Thanks for taking my calls

Yeah, it's a wonder...

Critterman · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2013, 02:45:03 PM »

Joe, just out of curiosity did you put the ebay one in a pan of water on the stove and see if it ever opened?

Sol Asylum · « **Reply #14 on:** February 25, 2013, 04:33:43 PM »

To add to Critter's question are you going to put it back on EBay?

It looks to me like the Delco one might have less flow restriction.

DeepBlueGXP · « **Reply #15 on:** February 25, 2013, 10:18:27 PM »

Quote from: Critterman on February 25, 2013, 02:45:03 PM

Joe, just out of curiosity did you put the ebay one in a pan of water on the stove and see if it ever opened?

Good idea, I still have both the old GM one and the ebay no name brand hehe

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2013, 12:43:04 AM »

Sell it to the new member with the temp problems

Just kidding AK....

Rogue · « **Reply #17 on:** January 18, 2014, 05:19:44 PM »

Joe - In the pics, which thermostat is the OEM and which is the aftermarket? Thanks.

Nocte Malum · « **Reply #18 on:** January 18, 2014, 07:18:14 PM »

This is just a guess, but the one on the left looks defective (like it wouldn't seal, and it doesn't look like it would be in a condition in which it were warm enough to be open).

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #19 on:** January 18, 2014, 11:42:54 PM »

Quote from: Rogue on January 18, 2014, 05:19:44 PM

Joe - In the pics, which thermostat is the OEM and which is the aftermarket? Thanks.

I can answer that, just by looking at them. The one on the left, that's made of thinner (shinier) pressed steel and has the slightly cone-shaped spring, is the crap, err, eBay one.

Rogue · « **Reply #20 on:** January 19, 2014, 10:39:21 AM »

Thanks guys. After finishing the water pump replacement on Pat's car (GXPsy) it took forever to get the air bubble out. As a result the OEM thermostst has gone south - doesn't open 'til around 245*. I checked the Stant catalog and they have an upgraded number for the OEM part. It's #14698. Looks exactly like the thermostat pictured on the right. Cost me $17 through Amazon. Putting it in today. I'll advise how it works. Also, I notice it does not have a piddle valve. Should it? Would I be advised to drill a small weep hole in it before I install? Thanks.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #21 on:** January 19, 2014, 11:37:13 AM »

DDM Dave suggested to drill a hole. We did ?someones? Water pump at the mod meet and a hole was drilled. Air bubbles out in a few minutes.

What car was that?

Wartie · « **Reply #22 on:** January 19, 2014, 12:31:15 PM »

Quote from: Gentleman Jack on January 19, 2014, 11:37:13 AM

DDM Dave suggested to drill a hole. We did ?someones? Water pump at the mod meet and a hole was drilled. Air bubbles out in a few minutes.

What car was that?

Was That Joe jr's when you did the water pump?

Rogue · « **Reply #23 on:** January 19, 2014, 01:31:45 PM »

Finally got the hose clamped rotated. What a bitxh. After numerous efforts with pliars, pullers, etc, I tapped on the cross bar of the hose clamp with a hammer and drift, and voila, the clamp rotated, Easy peasy! Now, on to the next step.

Rogue · « **Reply #24 on:** January 19, 2014, 02:18:07 PM »

OK, the OEM thermostat is out. I put it in a pan of water on the oven to test for faulty opening temperature. Of course, in the process of removing it I managed to drop the back bolt onto the floor. That's ok. When it comes to GXPsy I seem to enjoy doing all the repairs the hard way!

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Author Topic: How to change the thermostat LNF or LE5 (Read 32202 times)